Old Dan Walking

To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below: Rich Mountain Loop in Cades Cove(Opens in new window) 8.5 mile lollipop walk out of the Cades Cove area of the Smokies. The walk started and ended on the Rich Mountain Loop Trail and included Crooked Arm Ridge Trail and Indian Grave Gap Trail – October 24, 2009 If you’re reading this site than you’re probably either thinking about taking up this Smoky Mountain hiking addiction thing or already have, so you’ll know where I’m coming from here. On the day after you decide you’re going to get serious about hiking the Smoky’s trails you immediately make a list, either mentally or physically, of those must-do trails or destinations. I call those my Smokies Hall-of-Fame destinations. The Smokies 900 Club, as in hiking every mile in the Smokies, isn’t practical for everybody, so your list will contain your top priorities. You’ll have an extra little spring in your step when you know you’ll be hitting one of those special places on a hiking outing. Such was the case for me on this late-October Fall color peak season Saturday, and I woke up early without grumbling knowing that I’d be walking one of my second day list destinations, Rich Mountain Loop in spectacular Cades Cove. Cades Cove is a long way from my hiking home base, so it was going to be another 60 mile drive in the morning darkness before I’d be walking today. I was almost relieved that it was dark as I drove winding Laurel Creek Road, because otherwise I would’ve stopped every half mile to take pictures of the beautiful cascades of Laurel Creek with the peak color backdrop. When I reached the Cove around 7:45 AM there already were cars backed up waiting for the gates to open. It was going to be a very busy day in Cades Cove today. Eventually we moved along and I parked beside the covered information stand at the entrance of the loop road. Rich Mountain Loop Trail starts just across the road and after waiting on an already long line of cars I crossed and was off and walking… [caption id="attachment_867" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="A cloudy start in Cades Cove"]

[/caption] Rich Mountain Loop Trail and Crooked Arm Ridge Trail I mentioned that special list of destinations..well typically you’ll want to take extra care in planning a walk to those places. Unless you’re a retired local with lots of days to choose from, you’ll want to try to maximize the Hall-of-Fame experience by picking the right time of year and also by trying to outsmart the finicky Smoky Mountain weather. Today I would bat .500. I got the time of year perfect, with colors at their absolute peak, but I struck out on the weather. I was hopeful that the front that brought rain Friday night would blow through and clear things out, but it didn’t materialize the way I had hoped. Still, with the colors so fantastic it was really hard to complain. God willing I’ll be able to come back someday and improve my batting average. [caption id="attachment_869" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Vibrant Fall colors"] [/caption] The lollipop handle of today’s walk is a flat 0.5 mile stroll along the horse trail portion of Rich Mountain Loop Trail, initially running parallel to the Cades Cove Loop Road and then along beside one of the large maintained fields. The forest colors are already great. Side note: Rich Mountain Loop Trail isn’t a loop at all. You have to include other trails if you want to make a loop out of it, which is exactly what I’ll do today. Anyways, at the back of the field I stop to watch a doe and her fawn graze nervously beside the protection of the forest. Soon there is a rock-hop across Crooked Arm Branch and the intersection with Crooked Arm Ridge Trail. Turning right onto Crooked Arm Ridge Trail to start the loop portion of today’s walk, I begin to ascend up the side of the namesake ridge. A few tenths up the trail on the right is tiny Crooked Arm Falls, where Crooked Arm Branch cascades 25 feet down a sloping ledge on multiple channels. Shortly after I rock-hop the small creek and then stop to shed my top layer. Gearing up for a Fall walk can be tricky, so this time of year take extra precaution. Always make sure you bring layers because although you can really heat up on a climb, a ridge walk or descent later can really chill you to the bone. That would be the case for me later in the day today. [caption id="attachment_868" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Crooked Arm Falls"] [/caption] After the rock-hop the climbing really gets serious as I alternate between east and south-facing slopes amongst the vibrant reds, yellows, and golds with the green of hemlocks and pines mixed in. Here I can begin to see the beautiful colors of opposing ridges, but also notice that that the clouds are still hanging at about 2500 feet. The dry clay trail is seriously rutted in some spots. The climb is tough but I stop often to photography the gorgeous colors. Near the top the trail splits for no apparent reason, one fork going downhill, and one uphill. I’ve climbed enough so I choose the left fork, and both forks come back together a short distance later. A short time later I reach the Indian Grave Gap Trail/Scott Mountain Trail intersection. Scott Mountain Trail travels east over Pinkroot Ridge before going north down Scott Mountain to Schoolhouse Gap. Relieved to be done with the majority of today’s climb, I’ll go left onto Indian Grave Gap Trail. Nice ridge walking on Indian Grave Gap Trail Indian Grave Gap Trail does not have any Indian graves, but it sure has a beautiful forest. Even with the distant views obstructed completely by the fog, I’m constantly wowed by the up-close beauty of the ash and maples as I walk the pleasant ridgetop trail. With much easier walking I begin to really cool down as I travel west along the former Jeep road. This road was formerly used to service the power lines for Cades Cove. To my right is a high wall of rhododendron and to the left is gorgeous forest and what should be distant views. [caption id="attachment_870" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Fog on Indian Grave Gap Trail"] [/caption] I come across two different official markers that signify the northern National Park boundary, the first one to the right of the trail and the second a short distance later to the left, meaning the trail actually crosses the boundary and you walk for a short while technically outside the Park. Before long I reach the first of two intersections, this one in a pleasant gap with Rich Mountain Trail coming in on the right. Rich Mountain Trail travels steeply downhill to one-way Rich Mountain Road. Continuing on I finally reach the intersection with the trail I started on a few hours earlier, Rich Mountain Loop Trail. [caption id="attachment_876" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Views of the Smokies main ridge"] [/caption] Closing the loop down Rich Mountain Loop Trail After a short and chilly break for some PB&J in the clouds, it’s time to close the loop. Now I leave the final 1.1 miles of Indian Grave Gap Trail for another day and head downhill on Rich Mountain Loop Trail. I immediately encounter the first people I’ve seen on the trails, one of several groups day hiking up the popular trail. Most will ask ‘Have you seen any bears?’ and ‘How much longer to the top?’. Nope…no bears today, just a couple deer, a few birds, squirrels, and a ruffled grouse that scared the heck out of me in the fog. 8) As I coast downhill around Leading Ridge the views start to open back up just a bit, and I catch a glimpse here and there of the main Smokies crest and the fields of Cades Cove. Not as nice as they should be but a few views none the less. Further down the trail are a few nice rock-hop crossings of Marthas Branch and soon I reach the flatlands and the back of the John Oliver cabin. [caption id="attachment_874" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The John Oliver cabin in Cades Cove"] [/caption] The John Oliver cabin, a popular stop for auto tourers on the Cades Cove Loop Road, is a busy place today. After a quick look I continue behind the cabin and walk the up-and-down section of the trail that crosses a devastated and ugly lowland hemlock forest. After two nice rock-hop crossings of Harrison Branch I’m back at the lollipop handle, but this time I return to the trailhead along the edge of the open field and am treated to stunning views of the peak color bursting on the main crest. What a perfect ending, and only 8.5 miles of walking means it's early and I've got time, daylight, and energy left for some touristy stuff. After I finish up my walk it takes me more than an hour to drive half way around the Cades Cove Loop Road with the masses to the back section of the Cove. Here I take Forge Creek Road over to my first drive down the one-way Parsons Branch Road, a dirt thrill ride with multiple stream fords that exits the southwest side of the Park. For the first few crossings I have loads of fun blasting through the creeks but then am stuck behind a Subaru whose driver is afraid to get it dirty. Bummer. I crawl in line at 2 mph before exiting the Park in the middle of the famous motorcycle haven known as the ‘Tail of the Dragon’. The return trip is a beautiful one past Fontana and Cheoah Lakes. Later that night I return home via another stunner, the Blue Ridge Parkway, taking in the sunset and peak colors to end another awesome time in God’s Country. I highly recommend a drive up to see the Smoky Mountain color show, and get working on that list while you’re at it! [caption id="attachment_879" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Views on the drive home"] [/caption] Low elevation on today’s 8.5 mile lollipop walk was around 1700’ at the Rich Mountain Loop trailhead and high elevation was just over 3650’ atop Rich Mountain on the Indian Grave Gap Trail. It included just over 2570’ of overall climbing. For pics of this walk, click the link below: Rich Mountain Loop in Cades Cove(Opens in new window)

[caption id="attachment_856" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Access to the Park across Fontana Dam will be closed temporarily"] [/caption] If you hike the Great Smoky Mountains year-round like I do this is the time of the year when it's a good idea to check with the Park website for road closures before heading out the door for a hike. Weather can be unpredictable as we witnessed this past weekend when Clingmans Dome road had to be closed due to snow and ice. In addition, Federal stimulus funds are flowing in and many popular spots will be closed temporarily for re-paving. Here is the current list of temporary closures: Temporary Closures • Clingmans Dome Road is temporarily closed due to snow/ice on the road. • Cosby Campground is closed for repaving of campground roads. • Fontana Dam access road will be closed October 1st through January 31, 2010. Pedestrian access will be allowed. Tennessee Valley Authority (TVA) will have signs posted. • The Cades Cove Loop Road is scheduled to be closed to all public use from March 1-May 21, 2010 for repaving. Weather conditions may affect these closure dates. • Clingmans Dome Road is tentatively scheduled to be closed to all public use from December 2009 through May 2010 for repaving. Specific closure dates will be posted here once they become available. • Roaring Fork Motor Nature Trail is tentatively scheduled to be closed from December 2009 until June 2010 for repaving. Specific closure dates will be posted here once they become available. • The parking area at the Sinks on Little River Road is tentatively scheduled to be closed from October 2009 through May 2010 for redesign and repaving. Specific closure dates will be posted here once they become available. [caption id="attachment_857" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="A Smoky Mountain snow can change your plans in a hurry"] [/caption]

[caption id="attachment_845" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Fall color from Newfound Gap"] [/caption] No hike for Old Dan this past weekend, but here are a few shots of the Fall colors on Newfound Gap Road from October 10th: Smokies Fall Colors from October 10th(Opens in new window) [caption id="attachment_843" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Fall in full splendor along Newfound Gap Road"] [/caption] [caption id="attachment_846" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Tennessee Fall splendor"] [/caption]

[caption id="attachment_819" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="View of Charlies Bunion from the AT"]

[/caption] To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below: Smokemont to Newfound Gap(Opens in new window) 13 mile section walk out of the Smokemont area of the Smokies. The walk started at the Smokemont Campground and ended at Newfound Gap and covered Bradley Fork Trail, Cabin Flats Trail, Dry Sluice Gap Trail, and the Appalachian Trail – October 3, 2009 After a two week break I was ready to get back out there on the trails for my first October 2009 walk in the Smokies. Before I get to that...I have a feeling it is going to be a tough Fall and Winter for Friday night drives from my home in South Carolina. This Friday's drive had not one, not two, but three massive traffic jams on I-26 and I-40 thanks to the stimulus roadwork. Talk about overstimulation. I'm not sure why they decided it was a good idea to get all that stuff done on Friday evenings in the mountains in October? Anyways, I made it safe and sound albeit late Friday night. A few hours later I was again up before the sun and selected a long uphill trudge to Newfound Gap starting at the Smokemont Campground for today's walk. The weather report said it supposed to be crystal clear, cool, Chamber of Commerce weather so I thought a walk to the high country to see some views would be a good idea. In order to accomplish today's objective I would have to do something I had only done once before, hitch a ride to the trailhead. So after putting on my fleece coat for the first time since May I headed out the door and drove up to chilly Newfound Gap to leave the car. The change is definitely here, it's Fall in the Smokies and who doesn't love that?! Goal for today…a 3000 foot climb to Charlies Bunion With the aforementioned great weather I decided that the popular Smoky Mountain hotspot Charlies Bunion would be today’s ultimate goal. There are several ways to get there, with the most popular option being an 8 mile out-and-back along the Appalachian Trail out of Newfound Gap. It seems I prefer the less typical options. In June 2008, my second month of walking the Smokies, I attempted a walk up to the Bunion from Kephart Prong and had to turn back due to exhaustion and lack of water. I came back the next week with more water and backup water tablets and completed the tough 12 mile out-and-back. Now with a year and a half and 400 miles of Smokies walking experience behind me, I decided to try an even more difficult trek starting further downhill at the Bradley Fork Trail in Smokemont Campground. After dropping my car at Newfound Gap around 7:30 AM, I took off down Newfound Gap Road intent on catching a ride for the 12 miles back down the mountain to Smokemont. Normally I would never consider doing this, but it is legal and fairly common in the Smokies for hikers looking for an alternative to pricey shuttles. There wasn't much traffic this morning, but before long Ed from Knoxville saved the day for me. Thanks Ed! Ed is a member of the Smoky Mountain Hiking Club and was on his way to Robbinsville to work on the Appalachian Trail. Thanks on that count too Ed!! Ed graciously dropped me at Smokemont and I quickly walked through the nearly empty campground to the Bradley Fork trailhead to start my climb to the Gap. [caption id="attachment_814" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="A cascade a cavern on Bradley Fork"] [/caption] Climbing up Bradley Fork Trail and Cabin Flats Trail You have two choices to start your walk on Bradley Fork Trail, one being close to Newfound Gap Road and Luftee Baptist Church and the other being at the back end of the campground. Today I would start at the back of the campground. There is a large parking area there for the many hikers of the array of trails in the area, and today it was pretty full already. Bradley Fork Trail is a pleasant road walk beside the trail’s large namesake stream, with the lower 4 mile section climbing only modestly. It was the site of thriving communities, originally the Cherokee and then European settlers and eventually the Champion Fibre logging company. This would be my fifth visit to the trail and I would be perfectly happy with fifteen more visits, because the gentle grade and nice streamside walking won’t get old even though I will. There are horse trail intersections along the way so the going can get pretty muddy in some spots, so it didn’t take long to introduce my new pair of Merrells to the famous Smokies mud. After more than 400 miles of Smokies trails I finally decided to retire my original set of boots. I’m not sure what the criteria is for retiring hiking boots, but even though my old ones looked fine my feet were increasing sore when I finished up a walk, so I thought I’d try the padding of the new ones. Walking up the trail I eventually come to the Chasteen Creek trail intersection, which heads east uphill to Hughes Ridge and passes Chasteen Creek Cascades, campsite 50, and campsite 48 along the way. I’ve done part of that trail and will finish it another day. I continue on and stop a short while later at the intersection with Smokemont Loop Trail. This trail makes a half-loop and returns to the campground, a popular 6 mile day hike. I’m beginning to warm up now so off comes the two of my three top layers. It is a shaping up to be a glorious Fall day. [caption id="attachment_815" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Bradley Fork"] [/caption] The section of Bradley Fork Trail beyond the intersection with the Smokemont Loop is the most scenic, and I stop often for pictures of the tumbling creek. After about 4 miles I reach the traffic circle where the road portion of the walk ends. Here I leave Bradley Fork Trail behind as it makes a sharp right and climbs around Long Ridge to Hughes Ridge in another 3.3 miles. Again, another segment for another day. I continue to the left on a short 0.5 mile segment of Cabin Flats Trail, which crosses a scenic but budget overkill trestle bridge and climbs away from Bradley Fork, eventually coming to the intersection with Dry Sluice Gap Trail. From here 0.6 level miles to the right is the popular Cabin Flats campsite, a.k.a. campsite #49. Being a glutton for punishment, instead I will go left, climbing another 2500’ up Dry Sluice Gap Trail to the intersection with the Appalachian Trail at Dry Sluice Gap. Now the real climbing begins on Dry Sluice Gap Trail The climbing begins immediately after leaving the intersection with Cabin Flats Trail as the trail skirts the side of Richland Mountain. There are several creek crossings here of Tennessee Branch, some on footlogs and some not. Although none of the crossings are difficult, some are wide and the creeks are running high after rains yesterday and also a welcome wet Summer, so it is inevitable that I will test the ‘waterproof’ label on the side of my new boots. This section has many large trees…basswoods, oaks, silverbells, and poplars. Somehow this short section along Tennessee Branch escaped the loggers, allowing for a rare example of old-growth on the southern side of the Smokies for today’s hikers. Late-season wildflowers abound in this pleasant, moist forest as well. [caption id="attachment_817" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Icewater Springs shelter across the ridge"] [/caption] After all the stream crossings the trail continues to climb steeply up the side of Richland Mountain. Now I slow down considerably and am passed up by a few people, including a young couple with full packs but no particular place to go. They plan to stay at Cabin Flats, but are just out exploring for the rest of the day. I recommend Charlies Bunion for their endpoint and they blaze their way on ahead of me, easily leaving me in the dust. Ready to give up and just lay down and die as I climb into the high elevation forests, I’m relieved to finally reach the intersection with Grassy Branch Trail and a chance to stop for a rest. I have been here before on last year’s 12 miler out-and-back to the Bunion from Kephart Prong. The 2.9 miles I’d just climbed on Dry Sluice Gap Trail would be the majority of my new miles for today, most of the other 10+ miles being repeats. Despite the tough climb I quickly cool down in the early fall chill, so I grab a spot in the bright sun for a rest. Here I sit down with a nice church group that have come up the trail shortly after me. Even after that stiff climb, the kids still have the energy to climb around on trees while the adults of the group prepare a gourmet lunch…ah youth. 8) [caption id="attachment_816" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Views of Mount LeConte and Charlies Bunion from Dry Sluice Gap Trail"] [/caption] After a short rest and some nice conversation I climb the remaining 1.3 miles into the spruce-fir forest. Views of the Smoky’s crest begin to appear on the left and the Balsams begin to appear on the right. Thankfully I begin to top out at about 5700’, and walking on the bed of fraser needles in the cool high elevations is noticeably pleasant. It is something that everyone should experience. Hobblebush are now in their full burgundy color and the brilliant red berries of the mountain ash trees stand out in stark contrast to the surrounding hues. Life is good, and thank the Lord I am in it. A short downhill brings me across a skinny ridge and into stunning clear views to the west of Clingmans Dome, Mount LeConte, Charlies Bunion, Mount Ambler, and Mount Kephart. Wow! Miles across the ridge I can clearly see Icewater Springs shelter standing out amongst the spruce trees. After snapping some pictures I continue on and shortly reach the intersection with Appalachian Trail at Dry Sluice Gap. Charlie Bunion and the Appalachian Trail with lot of nice folks Looking north into Tennessee from Dry Sluice Gap the mountains seem to fall sharply away into oblivion. The north face is much more rugged in appearance, with steep drop-offs that fall into the Porters Creek drainage allowing for unobstructed views for miles north. Again I snap a few pictures and soon a signing young hiker arrives at the junction from the north with full beard and headphones on, signs of someone on a longer trek than I am on. So I inquire if he is thru-hiking and indeed he is. This nice young man, trail named Strider, has blazed his way southbound on the Appalachian Trail all the way from Maine. I’ve met a lot of northbound AT thru-hikers before, but I don’t recall meeting any southbounders yet, so I’m calling Strider the first. His journey began on May 31st and after conversing with him it was interesting to learn that he was not really weary from the nearly 2000 miles he’s traveled so far, but rather he was actually bumming that journey is almost over. He didn’t linger long though, and I imagine it’s because he knew he was only about 4 miles from Newfound Gap, a place where many thru-hikers hitch a ride down to Gatlinburg for a couple of ‘zero-days’, a real shower, and some mass quantities of grub. [caption id="attachment_818" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Southern views from the AT down Kephart Prong drainage"] [/caption] Strider blazes out of sight and I start my much slower walk west on the Appalachian Trail for the 4.4 mile trek back to Newfound Gap. Unfortunately the return trip will feature another big climb over Mount Ambler, and I wonder if I’ll have the energy at this point. Just before reaching the intersection with the Charlies Bunion side trail incredible views open up to the south looking down what I assume is Richland Mountain and the Kephart Prong valley. The Bunion side trail is only a few tenths from Dry Sluice Gap, so I step out onto the skinny ridge with sheer drops and breathtaking views and out on Charlies Bunion. As expected on a beautiful day like today there is a very large crowd at the Bunion resting all over the rocks and on top of the Bunion itself. Here I meet a big group of very enjoyable Leukemia and Lymphoma Society team in training hikers. This group is all either blood cancer survivors or people that hike for the memory or support of someone lost or currently fighting a blood cancer, raising funds for research. Visit www.teamintraining.org to find out more about this inspiring cause. At the Bunion we each pass cameras around and climb over the rocks so we can all get ‘I was there’ shots. Last year when I was at the Bunion it was rainy so I had no idea the views were this grand. The big group heads on their way back and I stay and have lunch and admire the vast 180 degree views for a while. After awhile I resume the trek to Newfound Gap, dreading the climb up to Icewater Springs shelter. The 0.9 mile section from Charlies Bunion to Icewater Springs shelter will be the only other unique mileage I will have on today’s walk. It is a nice walk through the spruce-fir forest but at this point I don’t really appreciate the fact that it is a big climb. Soon I reach the shelter and stop for a minute there. From here there is just a bit more climbing over the top of Mount Ambler and then all downhill back to Newfound Gap. I catch back up the team in training hikers and decide to walk with them the rest of the way back to the Gap, enjoying great conversation with many of them as we cruise along. Much to all of our relief we reach bustling Newfound Gap at 6 PM, take another group shot and part ways. I linger at the Gap and enjoy the warm sun and cool breezes…ah, another successful walk in the Smokies filled with stunning morning views, beautiful creeks, a tough climb to more stunning afternoon views, and a lot of great people. [caption id="attachment_826" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The inspirational people from the Leukemia Society team in training group "] [/caption] Low elevation on today’s 13 mile section walk was around 2250’ at the Bradley Fork trailhead and high elevation was just over 6100’ atop Mount Ambler on the Appalachian Trail. It included just over 5000’ of overall climbing. For pics of this walk, click the link below: Smokemont to Newfound Gap(Opens in new window)