Welcome to Old Dan Walking, a site dedicated mainly to the hiking journals and ramblings of your average lover of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park and beyond.
Search
Contributors
Dan DeSetto
Mountain Bridge Wilderness Area - South Carolina
Mountain Bridge Wilderness(Opens in new window)
Approximately 8 miles of walking around Upstate South Carolina’s Mountain Bridge Wilderness Area. The walk included segments of Coldspring Branch Trail, Coldspring Connector Trail, Frank Coggins Trail, US 276, and Rim of the Gap Trail – October 30, 2010
Editor’s Note Part Deux: More inline pics to be added later.
Fall 2010 is disappearing quickly so it was time again to shake off the rust and get outside for a walk. My Halloween Eve destination was a third trip to Upstate South Carolina’s Mountain Bridge Wilderness Area. The Mountain Bridge Wilderness Area is a beautiful gorge and its surrounding forests on the edge of the Blue Ridge escarpment, showcasing towering cliffs, waterfalls, and pleasant creeks and trails featuring occasional fields of gargantuan boulders. On the west end is Caesars Head State Park and on the east end is Jones Gap State Park.
I’ve mentioned this before but if you’re looking for a really nice place to take an autumn afternoon drive or motorcycle ride, I’d highly recommend the South Carolina Scenic Highway, also known as SC Hwy 11. The road traverses the entire northwest corner of the State and is situated right on the edge of the Blue Ridge escarpment, the place where the eastern mountains end and turn to rolling hills. It is one of my favorite drives, right up there with the Blue Ridge Parkway and the Pacific Coast Highway. (ok, maybe not as grand as those two, but nice none the less) The last Saturday morning of October was perfect for a drive to the mountains from my home in the Midlands.
I was battling Young Dan in my mind all day today, the version of me that still thinks he’s 25. I’d planned to start my hike on the Rim of the Gap Trail at the lowland eastern side of the MBWA in Jones Gap State Park, but the gorgeous weather made me change my mind…
Old Dan: “We should really start on the east end at Jones Gap. Then we’d be doing our uphill in the morning like you always prefer. “
Young Dan: “What do you mean me? You mean YOU always prefer downhill in the afternoon! But that view of Table Rock from Caesars Head is your favorite, and there’s no way you’d backtrack your lazy butt back up there after you finish walking. I don’t want to miss that view today geezer.”
Old Dan: “Hey McFly…have you looked at the elevation profile? Of course you haven’t…you’re ‘Mr. Wing It’, right?”
Young Dan: “Oh come on…I’ve dragged your sorry butt up much higher mountains than these in the Smokies before.”
Old Dan: “Brilliant…do you know what those profile lines that are really close together mean? Of course you don’t, why bother with the details, right?"
Young Dan: “Right on dude...just go for it. Ha…you passed up the turn for Jones Gap State Park, so now you’re listening to the REAL brains of the outfit, huh?”
Old Dan: “I know we’ll both regret this, you’ll see.”
Young Dan: “Just step on it dude and quit your whining. Man, this road is awesome..don’t hurl man!”
So Young Dan won and I decided to catch the morning view from Caesars Head. Hard to argue with YD's logic at this point because the view was worth the few mile detour. So after a quick look at the view I continued a mile up US 276 and pulled into the Raven Cliff Falls parking area. It was only 10 AM but the parking area was already full. Here you must register your hike and pay your $2 to use the Parks, so I obliged and then was on my way for the first missteps of the days. I accidentally walked a few tenths out the Tom Miller Trail before realizing my intended trail, the Coldspring Branch Trail, started a few feet further down the parking lot.
Young Dan: “Nice job dude….you blew that 30 minutes.”
Old Dan: “Yep (gasping, huffing, puffing)…I don’t (huff) want to hear (puff) another %$^@$%$ word out of you the rest of the day.”
Young Dan: “Word.”
So after a wicked climb I reached the intersection of the Frank Coggins Trail. Remind me not to do that little 0.5 demon of a trail again.
Old Dan: “We’re bailing out. No way I can do Rim of the Gap Trail and do all that climbing on the return trip this afternoon, I’m already whipped.”
Young Dan: “Word.”
So both of us were soon bailing out down the Frank Coggins Trail, a 0.5 mile gradual uphill walk connecting back up with US 276. ‘We’ emerged right at the Caesars Head Visitors Center and then took a right for a 1+ mile road walk back to the parking area.
From there I had to shuttle myself over to the flatlands at Jones Gap State Park to restart the walk from the other side of the MBWA.
Today was not going well…I drove on over to the Jones Gap State Park entrance to find a line of cars and Park Ranger.
Elliott (Jones Gap State Park Ranger): “You’ll have to wait here..the Park is full. We’re letting one car in as one car leaves.”
Young Dan: “Brilliant job Einstein….this is so choice!”
Old Dan: “Just shut up and listen to the game.”
About an hour later I had moved my way up the queue and got to enter the Park as a car left. Finally! Rim of the Gap Trail was my destination when I came here to walk in March, but ice had closed the trail on that day. Today it was a different issue. It was already late, so I knew with all the missteps I would not have time to do the whole trail. When this sort of issue hits, I have a hard time just enjoying my time on the trail. I need to focus on the fact that it’s a gorgeous day in the woods and good Lord willing I’ll get to come back someday and finish the job. Heck, it gives me an excuse to come back. It didn’t matter though, unfortunately I was miffed.
I continue climbing but the voices are getting louder. Not the falcons, but rather Young Dan in my head:
Young Dan: “What do you mean you’re going to turn around soon? We’re not even half way!”
Old Dan: “Have you forgotten Palmetto Pass? With these new leaves on the ground…we’re going to lose the trail pretty easy in this low light. I’m beat too.”
Young Dan: “Low light?! Huh? It’s not even 4 PM…come on man!”
Old Dan: “I’m not taking any chances because I don’t know how long it will take to get back down the mountain. We’ve been climbing for several miles.” (not really…even though it seemed that way)
Young Dan: “Man, that's bogus! I do this under protest!”
Old Dan: “Suit yourself, but we’re going.”
Back down the mountain ‘we’ went..and as it turned out YD was probably right. I had a lot of daylight left when I made my way easily back down the mountain. It’s hard to judge when you’re relentlessly climbing, but I probably had enough time and light for at least another 2 or 3 miles. Oh well…next time.
Young Dan: “That was lame man…we could’ve done the whole loop. Totally lame.”
Old Dan: “Get used to it..because I get more lame by the minute. Trust me, you’d be the first one crying like a baby when you’re stuck out in the woods in thirty degree weather.”
Young Dan: “No way man. Hey…close those windows dude, that wind is cold!”
Old Dan: “Exactly!”
For pics of this walk, click the link below:
Mountain Bridge Wilderness(Opens in new window)
Walking around campus
I'm not doing much walking in the woods lately...but a walk around the beautiful campus of my alma mater on a perfect Autumn Saturday afternoon is still good for the heart (and soul)
Nick gets chomped by the tiger statue.
Always an exciting opening...the team's traditional run down the hill after touching Howard's Rock.
Down on the field after the game...a Tiger victory! Clemson 27, Georgia Tech 13...Go Tigers!
Autumn arrives in the Smokies
To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below:
Cataloochee Divide Trail(Opens in new window)
13.9 mile Y-shaped walk on the Cataloochee Divide in the Great Smoky Mountains. The walk started at Cove Creek Gap and ended in the Cataloochee area, covering Cataloochee Divide Trail, McKee Branch Trail, and Caldwell Fork Trail – October 2, 2010
The first weekend in October in the Smokies in a word?....Tremendously fantastic. Ok, that’s two words, but hey, crystal clear cool days and downright chilly nights were in store so I couldn’t resist getting out on the trails again. So I blew out the door at 05 early and drove to the nearest Smokies area to my South Carolina home, Cataloochee. Today I would polish off essentially the last of my unwalked miles originating from this gorgeous and popular area.
I rolled into Cataloochee Valley fairly early but there was already a huge lineup of cars on each side of the road beside the tended meadows. The attraction was obvious, as the famous Smoky Mountain elk herd was out in the fields putting on quite a show. It was the first time I’d heard the bugling that is common for this time of the year, known as the rut. Several impressive bull elk with huge racks were in full song, songs that echoed loudly throughout the valley. It was a tremendous start to the day and just what I needed after a not-so-spectacular last visit one month previous. 
Views galore on Cataloochee Divide Trail
Today’s planned walk was to be a long one, and the route would depend on whether I could catch a ride to the Cataloochee Divide trailhead from near the full campground in the valley to Cove Creek Gap. If I couldn’t, it would add about 5 miles and 1500’ of climbing to my day, so I was definitely hoping for a break. Many cars passed me up as I walked along the road until Cindy and her daughter from Canton saved me…thanks Cindy! Can’t thank you enough for the ride and the great conversation along the winding road up to the Gap. After getting dropped off I set out on foot from the 4050’ Gap, heading southwest along the Divide through a thick forest of white pine and hickory. 
Cataloochee Divide is a massive ridge that straddles the Park boundary, with great views to the southeast on the left side and into Cataloochee Valley on the right. Unfortunately Fall had not yet arrived in full force at these elevations, so the trees still blocked most of the Cataloochee views. Views toward I-40 and Asheville were great though. At just over a mile there was one cleared spot that looked like it might have been used as a camp, where the trees had been cleared to offer a fantastic view of Cataloochee. The trail follows the ridge and runs beside the old familiar boundary fence built in the 30’s by the CCC. To the left of the fence was a long dirt road/driveway that eventually led to a new house being built directly beside the Park. No setback whatsoever…..the edge of the covered carport was directly on the Park boundary. Beyond the house were more fabulous views to the southeast. 
The trail passes Panther Spring Gap, reminding that this area has been the only place in the Smokies with reported, but unconfirmed, sightings of panthers. Officially the cat is declared extinct however. The sides of the trail are crowded with wildflowers of many types, jewelweed, snakeroot, nettle, and witch hazel among them. I spot my first bluebead lily, with striking blue beads as the name implies dangling on the end of long stalks. As is typical of Smokies ridge walk, it’s not as easy a stroll as you’d think. Lots of ups and downs with a general uphill bias. Views of Purchase Knob appear on the left as I climb. I stop for a rest at Taylor’s Turnaround, one of the huts placed outside the boundary for visitors of The Swag resort.
I continue on and before long reach Purchase Gap (elevation 4800’) at the intersection with McKee Branch Trail. I’ll pass this trail up for now but return here in a couple of hours for the descent back to my car. At Purchase Gap I meet up with two great couples that are out exploring the trails while staying at the Swag. Greg, Elizabeth, Bev, and Ken from Nashville are my new walking partners for the next 1.4 miles, and we all continue southwest while conversing about different Smoky Mountain topics. I pretend that I know what I’m talking about and we enjoy the walk in the great afternoon weather. I split from them at the Swag to complete the last 0.4 miles of the trail, ending at the intersection with Hemphill Bald Trail at Double Gap. I was here last June for a fantastic loop out of Polls Gap, still one of my all-time favorite walks. 
I double back and on the return trip to Purchase Gap my new best friends invite me for cookies and Coca-Cola on the peaceful deck of the Swag. Heaven on Earth…fresh baked chocolate chip cookies and Coke in mid-walk…what could be better! Thanks Greg, Elizabeth (don't call me Susie :)), Bev, and Ken! Reluctantly I must leave due to the time, so I say goodbye and continue back to Purchase Gap, sugar rush fully engaged and feeling like $100. 
Downhill slogging on McKee Branch Trail
I had read in many of the blogs I follow that McKee Branch Trail is one of those miserable experiences you complete and hope you don’t come back to. I hoped that the experience of this knee-busting downhill wouldn’t dampen what had been a real good day so far. McKee Branch Trail is probably named for the McGee family that lived and is buried at the end of the trail near Caldwell Fork. I didn’t have a lot to say about this tumbling, rocky, deeply rutted downhill horse trail, except I was relieved to be going down it instead of up. One thing worked in my favor, however. Recent dry conditions followed by a big rain had made the abundant mud exactly the right consistency to actually help my descent. Both too dry and too wet to be overly slick, it had more of a consistency of Play-Doh. This helped cushion the impact of the downhill slog and I had absolutely no back or knee discomfort, despite losing about 1800’ of elevation in only 2.3 miles. Near the bottom the trail flattens out in a dying hemlock forest in the area once occupied by the McGees and includes a couple shallow crossings of the namesake creek. In no time I happily arrived at the intersection with Caldwell Fork Trail with nary a complaint in mind. McKee Branch Trail…done! 
Caldwell Fork Trail
I turn right on Caldwell Fork Trail for an easy 3.1 mile saunter back to the car. I had done this section of the oft-muddy trail previously so I stowed my camera and cruised along at an easy pace. Caldwell Fork Trail is loaded with creek crossings, mostly on footlogs that are placed high above the water to avoid being washed out by Caldwell Fork. A few of the footlogs are so high they get your attention. There is only one real spot that you must cross without a footlog, but it is reasonably easy to keep your feet dry. For pictures from this section of trail I recommend you visit my gallery from Winter 2008. 
A love rekindled
If you read my previous post you probably wondered, as I did, whether I’d be back to walking again any time soon. My last experience was not ideal. But an early-Autumn day of walking in the Smokies can make you easily forget your troubles, so I’d say my love for this hobby has been restored. I’m looking forward to getting back out there on the trails soon, and I recommend it all of you as well.
Low elevation on this 13.9 mile walk was around 2650’ at the Caldwell Fork trailhead in the Cataloochee area and high elevation was about 5090’ at Double Gap at the intersection of Cataloochee Divide Trail and Hemphill Bald Trail. The walk included nearly 3200’ in overall climbing and 4640’ in descending.
For pics of this walk, click the link below:
Cataloochee Divide Trail(Opens in new window)
