Old Dan Walking

[caption id="attachment_961" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The Cataloochee Divide"]

[/caption] To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below: Big Fork Ridge Loop(Opens in new window) 10 mile loop walk out of the Cataloochee area of the Great Smokies. The walk started and ended at the Cataloochee trailhead for the Big Fork Ridge Trail and included Caldwell Fork Trail and Rough Fork Trail – December 13, 2008 [caption id="attachment_958" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The huge enclosure used for the original elk release "] [/caption] No recent walks and not much exercise in general lately for Old Dan, but I am thankful for the time to rest and reconnect with family. But with the Thanksgiving Holiday now in the rear view I look forward to working off the turkey, gravy, and endless desserts back in the Smokies sometime soon. For now though, I'll have to look back at a late Fall walk from last year in the BW days (BW = Before Website). Those looking for a nice workout and a relatively short dayhike to go with the short daylight hours of late Fall should check this loop out. It contains many of the typical Smoky Mountain highlights, such as nice creeks, big trees, historical homesites, and of course the famous Smokies elk herd. [caption id="attachment_959" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Views along the trail"] [/caption] The walk starts out on the Big Fork Ridge Trail across from one of the tended fields that is frequented by the elk herd of Cataloochee. The elk weren't there on this cold morning but would be there for a show at the end of my walk. The Big Fork Ridge Trail crosses Rough Fork and passes the huge enclosure that was used to contain and orient the original 25 elk before they were re-introduced into the Smokies a few years ago. After passing the enclosure the trail immediately climbs to the top of the Big Fork Ridge, a ridge that seperates the Caldwell Fork drainage and the Rough Fork drainage. The trail then descends the other side of the ridge into the Caldwell Fork drainage, connecting with Caldwell Fork Trail after crossing the namesake creek. The loop I would do today then turns right and follows Caldwell Fork Trail as it climbs up to the intersection with the the Rough Fork Trail. Don't forget to check out the big old Poplar trees on a short spur to the right (marked with a sign). To complete the loop I then turn right and descend Rough Fork Trail, with the highlight of this section being the restored Woody House about 1 mile from the end of the trail. The Woody House is a milled-lumber homesite that was once a productive farm. The original house was log but was covered with milled lumber once it became available early in the 20th century. Ending the day with a big show from the elk herd is always a treat, and I drove home to South Carolina satisfied with another great day in the Smokies. [caption id="attachment_960" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="A bull elk tends to his herd"] [/caption] Low elevation on my 10 mile loop walk was around 2820’ at the Big Fork Ridge trailhead and high elevation was near 4100’ near the Caldwell Fork Trail/Rough Fork Trail intersection. The walk included about 2580’ of overall climbing. To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below: Big Fork Ridge Loop(Opens in new window)

[caption id="attachment_943" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Views of Thomas Ridge"]

[/caption] To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below: Thomas Divide Loop(Opens in new window) 13 mile lollipop walk up Thomas Divide Trail. The walk started and ended on the southern trailhead for the Thomas Divide Trail and included Deeplow Gap Trail and Indian Creek Motor Trail – November 7, 2009 Back up to the Smokies for a Saturday walk, I decided to stay close to base camp and return to the Deep Creek area. Goal for today was another tough lung and leg workout climbing up Thomas Divide Trail, starting at the southern trailhead on dirt Tom Branch Road. (or is it Galbraith Creek Road? The book says Galbraith Creek Road, but the trail signs say Tom Branch Road.) Whatever the case, enter the Deep Creek and drive past the picnic area on your right. Shortly after you pass the picnic area you’ll come to the large parking area on the left for the Deep Creek trails. Don’t pay attention to the sign that says ‘Trailhead Parking’ and instead turn right, crossing Deep Creek on a one lane bridge, and follow the dirt road about a mile to the southern trailhead parking area on your left. Only one other vehicle was there when I arrived on this 33 degree morning. Thomas Divide Trail and the ridge that I would climb today are named for William Holland Thomas, white adopted son of Cherokee Chief Yonaguska. Thomas became the first white Cherokee Chief when his father died in 1839 and was instrumental in helping with the creation of the Qualla reservation for the Eastern Band of the Cherokee Indians. Thomas was also an officer for the Confederacy during the Civil War. Climbing to Deeplow Gap up Thomas Divide Trail [caption id="attachment_937" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Trailhead beside Tom Branch Road"] [/caption] Thomas Divide Trail starts around 2200’ and begins climbing immediately after I pass the gate. Although it is a moderate climb, the trail is a wide and well-graded roadbed and is covered with several inches of crunchy leaf litter. Though I appreciate the good footing after last week’s debacle, it will be next to impossible for me to spot wildlife today due to the noise I’ll make crunching my way uphill through the fresh mat of leaves. The good news about climbing on an chilly Fall morning is it won’t take long to warm up, and that is the case for me as I stop less than a mile up to remove some layers. Before long I reach the 1.1 mile point and the intersection with Stone Pile Gap Trail, a 0.9 mile trail that connects up with the Indian Creek Trail. More on that later. After the intersection the trail walks directly to the left of the National Park boundary, and I hear lots of activity on the private land including chainsaws on the uphill and gunfire later on the return trip. Yep, must be deer season again. A train horn from the Smoky Mountain Railroad also echoes through the valley as the train makes its way to Nantahala Gorge. Trudging uphill on the wide trail, nice views into Indian Creek drainage and the Sunkota Ridge appear to my left and high walls of rhododendron shade the trail from the right. The trees are almost 100% bare now, making it easier to see the views of distant ridges. There are no signs of life Parkside save for the occasional squirrel and crow. After 3.3 miles of non-descript climbing I reach the nice flat gap where Indian Creek Motor Trail comes uphill to meet Thomas Divide Trail. [caption id="attachment_934" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Clingmans Dome would be a constant companion today"] [/caption] Thomas Divide Trail now ducks off the roadbed and jogs sharply right to continue its climb up Thomas Ridge. No more road walking until later today, as the trail narrows on the ridgetop and also becomes more steep. Now I feel the breezes coming up the eastern slopes and also get my first glimpse of Clingmans Dome to the northwest. It’s pretty cool to see the highest point in the Smokies as you walk along a ridgetop. Now I’m really heating up as the trail swings into the direct sunlight of the eastern side of Thomas Ridge and climbs relentlessly up to today’s high point of 4225’. Cresting the ridge I see today’s first hiker, Steve Edwards from Sevierville, and I stop for a chat (and a rest). After a few minutes of conversation Steve looks at me kind of funny and says “are you Old Dan Walking?”. Hey, that’s cool..the first person to recognize me out on the trails, I’m semi-famous! 8) More importantly Steve tells me that he is just three short trails from reaching the Smokies 900 goal. Congratulations in advance Steve! (Steve is a long-time follower of Smoky Scout that found my site through hers, thanks Sharon!) After a nice talk we part and I complete the remaining downhill mile to reach Deeplow Gap. Decision number one…Deeplow Gap Trail [caption id="attachment_936" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Bull elk 106 grazes in Cherokee"] [/caption] Taking a break at peaceful Deeplow Gap I have to make the first of two decisions on which loop I’ll do today. I was thinking about trying a long loop up to Sunkota Ridge, a walk that would complete my remaining miles of Thomas Divide Trail. Probably not the best idea for this time of year though, so I decide on a shorter loop. I begin by heading downhill along the flank of Thomas Ridge on Deeplow Gap Trail. Deeplow Gap Trail heads down into Indian Creek drainage where I’ll have two different choices for completing my loop today. At the top of the trail there are occasional nice views of Clingmans Dome and then looking back toward Thomas Ridge. Later the trail begins to level out and changes character to a more moist, rocky walk through a hemlock forest of several seeps and shallow streams. Downhill feels good but I have to be careful on the rocks, especially considering last week. Soon I reach the Indian Creek Motor Trail where a group of horse riders were stopped to determine which way to go next. I’ll have to do the same. I decide to continue the additional 0.1 miles of Deeplow Gap Trail (or so the sign said, it was actually 0.3 miles) because I remember from my February walk that there was a sitting bench at the Indian Creek Trail intersection. Decision time on the bench [caption id="attachment_939" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Today it would be up and down and up and down"] [/caption] I sit on the bench at the Indian Creek Trail intersection and contemplate the two choices I have for my return trip back to my car. Door #1 would be to return the 0.3 miles up Deeplow Gap Trail and then climb another 1000’ back up Thomas Ridge on the Indian Creek Motor Trail, rejoining Thomas Divide Trail at that intersection I was at earlier today. Door #2 was an easy gradual downhill on Indian Creek Trail and then a return to Thomas Divide Trail via Stone Pile Gap Trail. I’m tired, so I choose the easier door #2. After a few paces downhill the voices in my head keep whispering “dude, you need the work..door #1, door #1, door #1…”. So against my better judgment I whip around and climb the 1000’ up Deeplow Gap Trail and Indian Creek Motor Trail. Indian Creek Motor Trail is a walk along a wide roadbed for an abandoned National Park project to make a motor loop out of Deep Creek. For me it is just another grueling climb, and I shuffle along slowly. The only thing of note today on this trail was one large flat area on the right that had a nice view and a stone pile, probably a former camp of some sort. After 1.8 miles of uphill along Thomas Ridge I finally reach the intersection with Thomas Divide Trail. Relief! Now it would be a long 3.3 miles of downhill to the car. It’s always amazing to me though how quickly the relief of going downhill fades late in the day, particularly if you’re retracing steps you walked earlier in the day. But I decided that I was in no hurry to be out of the Smokies, and even when I’m in the midst of a boring descent I’m thankful to be in the Smokies! Life is good…so I ramble on. Near the end of my walk I notice a cemetery on the right that I walked right by without noticing this morning. I go over and check out the well-kept peaceful hilltop resting place for many early residents of this area. I stand still and just listen to the wind. After that my 13 mile walk for today ends just a few paces away at the now-full parking area. Although today’s walk wasn’t filled with the ‘wow factor’ of some waterfall, stream, or high-mountain ridge walks, I still enjoyed the pleasant woods and the tough workout and of course look forward to my next visit. [caption id="attachment_935" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Little Jarvis only saw 7 years"] [/caption] Low elevation on today’s 13 mile lollipop walk was around 2170’ near the Thomas Divide trailhead and high elevation was near 4225’ atop Thomas Ridge on the Thomas Divide Trail. The walk included about 5050’ of overall climbing. For pics of this walk, click the link below: Thomas Divide Loop(Opens in new window)

[caption id="attachment_913" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Stunning Raven Cliff Falls"]

[/caption] To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below: Raven Cliff Falls Loop in Caesars Head State Park(Opens in new window) 8.4 mile lollipop walk to view gorgeous Raven Cliff Falls in Caesars Head State Park, South Carolina. The walk started and ended on the Raven Cliff Falls Trail and included Gum Gap/Foothills Trail, Naturaland Trail, and Dismal Trail – November 1, 2009 Where do I start with this Sunday’s walk? The perfect weather? The beautiful views? The stunning colors? The spectacular raging creek? The amazing waterfall? The awe-inspiring wall of rock? Sounds a lot like one of my typical Smoky Mountain weekend walks, right? Nope…not this time, because to get all those adjectives on this day I didn’t even leave my home state. Thanks to the Saturday Halloween festivities I would wait for Sunday to walk on ‘Fall Back Weekend’. I appreciated the extra hour due to the end of Daylight Savings Time so I could take advantage of one of those long days, with a ‘drive up-walk-then drive home’ plan. Thanks to the rock slide on I-40 and the fact that I’ve completed almost all of the trails in Cataloochee, the closest Smoky Mountain area to my South Carolina home not impacted by the slide, I chose to stay in my back yard. My choice was the Mountain Bridge Wilderness Area at the very edge of the Blue Ridge escarpment. [caption id="attachment_908" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Gorgeous view of Table Rock Mountain from the overlook"] [/caption] The Mountain Bridge Wilderness Area sits on US 276 at the North Carolina/South Carolina state line and encompasses about 50 miles of trails and two South Carolina State Parks, Caesars Head and Jones Gap. For me to get there meant a drive on one of my favorite routes, SC Hwy 11, also known as the Cherokee Foothills Scenic Highway. This is one beauty of a road, traveling the gorgeous rolling Carolina Piedmont parallel to the front range of the Blue Ridge Mountains. I spent a lot of time traveling this road on weekends in the late ‘80s while in college at Clemson University, probably to put off studying. I was happy to be back this way again as a strong cold front finished rolling through and clearing out the air and the overnight rains. Driving up the mountains on twisty US 276, it was tough not to slip and slide on the wet road covered with a thick layer of fresh fallen leaves. It would be foreshadowing of a tough day on the trail. Around 8:45 AM I reached the closed Visitor Center atop Caesars Head and stepped out to the stunning overlook in 25 mph winds, and immediately felt like I would freeze to death. I’m telling you it was brisk! Raven Cliff Falls Trail and Gum Gap/Foothills Trail [caption id="attachment_915" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Something I\'m not used to as a Smokies walker"] [/caption] I got the idea for today’s walk from author and hiker/blogger extraordinaire Danny (Danielle) Bernstein’s excellent first book Hiking the Carolina Mountains. This book has a plethora of fantastic information on 57 Carolina day hikes, and it includes lots of facts that I would need to get to and complete my walk today. Being spoiled by extremely well documented and well maintained Smokies trails that I could get to and from with my eyes closed, it was nice to have this book to help with an area not so familiar. The first essential information was the location of the Raven Cliff parking area another 1.2 miles north of the Visitor Center. By 9:30 I would have my $2 fee paid and my hiker information sheet filled out and deposited in the box and be on my on my way down the wide carriage path on Raven Cliff Falls Trail. For the lesser-traveled State Park trails it is necessary to fill out an information sheet and deposit the white copy in the box, then put the pink copy in when you return safely at the end of the day. That saves the Rangers from having to come and get you when you don’t return by nightfall. That should’ve been my first warning. Raven Cliff Falls Trail is an extremely popular moderate 2.2 mile walk to a new covered observation deck overlooking the beautiful falls across a gorge. Initially it is a wide path that according to Danny used to carry lodge guests to view the Falls in the early 20th century. At this time in the morning I’m alone on this popular trail. Just after passing a Park maintenance building the trail ducks around a ridge and begins to climb modestly along a ridgeline among oaks, pines, hickory, and sassafras. To the left through the trees are occasional very nice views of the Carolina Piedmont. About a mile in the trail changes character as it switches sharply right and descends through a thick laurel patch on a nice wooden staircase. After a short walk through the tunnel of laurel the trail flattens out and before long reaches the intersection with the Gum Gap/Foothills Trail. Here I see one difference between my Smokies and this State Park, with a full color copy of the entire trail map posted at the intersection complete with a “You Are Here” annotation. Here I take a right and begin to follow the blue-blazed Gum Gap/Foothills Trail around the north side of the falls gorge instead of continuing on Raven Cliff Falls Trail for the remaining few tenths to the observation platform. I figured I would go counterclockwise around the loop instead of Danny’s recommended route of going clockwise. Reason? Well, I figured I would save the highlight of the big Falls view until the end of the day. That decision would very nearly turn out to be costly. (see mistake #2 later) Gum Gap Trail is a mostly level cruise through a dry ridge pine-oak forest. A few tenths in I turn sharply left and begin to follow a muddy jeep road through a forest of white pine. A few streams cross under the road here and I begin to heat up as I walk quickly along the flat road, dodging mud puddles. Now heating up, I stop and drop a layer while listening to the stream tumble under the road. At one low spot in the trail a water diversion channel is filled with yesterday’s rainwater. Before long I reach another full-color map at the intersection with the pink-blazed Naturaland Trail on the left. Nightmare on Naturaland Trail [caption id="attachment_909" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The cable crossing of Matthews Creek"] [/caption] Naturaland Trail travels the south end of the Wilderness Area and crosses the Falls below Raven Cliff. The west end of the trail is a nice fairly gentle climb amongst brilliant fall colors, with views back toward Caesars Head appearing at one point. Here I begin to notice the very loud roar of Matthews Creek, and eventually swing around to the left to parallel it as hemlocks appear on the north facing slopes. The wide creek is really raging, dropping on several large cascades as I begin to walk directly beside it. I sense the Falls are nearby as the water picks up speed. I’m frustrated that there isn’t a good spot to photograph the beautiful roaring creek. Soon I reach the skinny suspension bridge that goes directly over top of Raven Cliff Falls. Wow! Raven Cliff Mountain drops suddenly away as the Falls tumble 400 feet down beneath me. On the opposing ridge are gorgeous Fall colors, from which I will have a direct view to photograph the Falls later today. After a thousand photos I amble across the bouncy and somewhat scary bridge and then stop for a brief lunch of trail mix and water. [caption id="attachment_912" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The suspension bridge from across the gorge"] [/caption] Now it’s time to discuss those mistakes I mentioned earlier. Both would be highlighted on the section of Naturaland Trail I was about to travel, which now abruptly drops about 900 feet in elevation from this point at the suspension bridge to eventually end up at Matthews Creek below. Mistake #1 was when I left home today without my proper hiking gear. All of my gear was safely tucked away at base camp in the Smokies, so I had to walk today totally ill prepared…a real recipe for disaster. Here’s the rest of the recipe:

- One ounce of incorrect footwear

- Two teaspoons of no GPS

- One cup of steep gradient

- One unfamiliar boulder strewn path

- Two bushels of fresh fallen leaves

- One gallon of fresh rainwater

- Three cups of no cell phone reception

- One helping of nearly deserted trail

- Two cups of mud

- One poorly balanced non-hiking bookbag

- A pinch of barely visible trail blazes

- Two liters of no emergency supplies: water treatment stuff, matches, headwear, first aid kit, compass, extra clothing, etc.

- Combine with mistake #2, a downhill on the steepest, rockiest, most leaf-covered trail section

Mix well and bake for about 3 miles. Makes one humble pie. [caption id="attachment_918" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Ladders lend a helping hand on Naturaland Trail"]

[/caption] You get the picture..it definitely wasn’t pretty. I can honestly say two things about this section of the trail. Number one is I am incredibly sore from doing full squats after slipping at least 30 times on the leaf-covered boulders, and number two I am genuinely thankful to be here writing this story today unhurt. I fell hard on a sharp pile of rocks once and thought for sure I broke my tailbone. I have a nice large bruise to show for it, but fortunately missed real injury by a few inches. Combine that with all the previous disaster ingredients and like I said…I’m happy to be unharmed. Learn from my stupidity. Anyway, although this was by far the toughest downhill I’d ever done I guess it wasn’t all bad. At a few points on the trail crews have installed handy ladders to help with the steep sections. One huge highlight just down the trail from the steep section was a 120 foot high semicircular wall of rock called the Cathedral. The Cathedral was composed of sheared-off layers of striated rock all cleanly stacked up like a pile of sheetrock at the neighborhood Home Depot. After this high point though I continued on and had several occasions when I really thought I had missed my turn and was lost. The trail was difficult to follow and slow going thanks to the poor footing, but eventually much to my relief I reached Matthews Creek and my first experience with a thin parallel cable crossing. We’re definitely not in the Smokies anymore Dorothy! No whimpy little footlog bridges here! I am relieved nobody was there to capture my terrified expression as I slinked across Matthews Creek on the skinny cable dangling a few feet above a swift cascade. (bottom cable for your feet , top cable to hang on for dear life!) After I survived I could pause and laugh a bit… Continuing on the trail ducks back into the thick forest of rhododendron. This short flat section takes you across a few feeder streams and eventually to the intersection with the purple-blazed Dismal Trail. The aptly named Dismal Trail and the stunning overlook [caption id="attachment_910" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="View of the falls from the Dismal Trail"] [/caption] I was never so relieved to see a Dismal Trail in all my life! Thank God, 1000 feet straight up, this I could handle! If you’re going in this direction though, the Dismal Trail is aptly named, climbing relentlessly up the front range of the Blue Ridge opposite Raven Cliff Mountain. The highlights of this section were a few big trees, the one spot where I could see Raven Cliff Falls across the ridge, and the fact that it was over. Out of gas mostly due to the nervous energy of the Naturaland downhill, I’m sure I didn’t set any records on this uphill. Soon I let out a big sigh of relief when I saw the backward trail map and the intersection with the trail I started on this morning, Raven Cliff Falls Trail. [caption id="attachment_911" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Raven Cliffs Falls from the observation platform"] [/caption] Just a quick and thankfully flat 0.2 mile spur away was the very nice covered Raven Cliff Falls observation platform. From here I sat with the mass of humanity and took dozens of shots of the gorgeous Falls across the ridge, bragging to everybody that would listen about how I was standing on that faint suspension bridge across the gorge a few hours earlier. It was stellar, and I soon forgot my two mistakes. Forgot them until the next day that is...when my extremely sore quads would remind me. After a nice break I walked the easy 2.2 miles back to the parking area, now busting at the seams with outdoor enthusiasts. I finished the day with an ice cream from the Visitors Center and a few more pictures from the stunning Caesars Head overlook…could it be any better? I love my Smokies like no place else on Earth, but my first real hike in my South Carolina mountain back yard was a real treat, and I’d recommend it to any of you looking for a nice change of pace. Bring your gear with you though, ok?! ..and go buy Danny’s book too! [caption id="attachment_914" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Views into the South Carolina Piedmont"] [/caption] Low elevation on today’s 8.4 mile lollipop walk was around 1900’ at the Dismal Trail/Naturaland Trail intersection and high elevation was near 3100’ on Raven Cliff Falls Trail. According to Danny the walk included about 1950’ of overall climbing. For pics of this walk, click the link below: Raven Cliff Falls Loop in Caesars Head State Park(Opens in new window)