Old Dan Walking

[caption id="attachment_1275" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The AT at the Smoky\'s northeastern boundary"]

[/caption] To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below: Loop in Big Creek(Opens in new window) 7.5 mile inverted lollipop walk out of the Big Creek area of the Smokies. The walk started and ended at the Big Creek Ranger Station and included Chestnut Branch Trail and the Appalachian Trail (plus about 1.4 miles of road walking) – March 20, 2010 Cool, I get to walk the Smokies two days this weekend! Destination for the glorious first day of Spring (and Happy Birthday Maria!) was my first-ever visit to the Smoky’s Big Creek area tucked away in the northeast corner of the Park. The Big Creek area is a well known summer hotspot due the large swimming holes and many cascades and falls in the namesake creek, but I wasn’t here to walk up that trail today. Instead I planned a walk to finish the eastern (officially northern) end of the Park’s Appalachian Trail miles. To get to Big Creek from the south and east is difficult/impossible right now thanks to the well-documented rock slide closure of I-40, but I would be coming from Gatlinburg so I didn’t have to contend with that issue. [caption id="attachment_1268" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="My first visit to Big Creek"] [/caption] The quickest route to Big Creek from where I was staying in Gatlinburg was to travel east on Hwy 321 to I-40 and then follow I-40 east (actually goes south) to exit 451 at Browns, TN. From there it is a quick drive along the scenic Pigeon River and by the Walters Progress Energy power plant near Waterville, NC to the Big Creek entrance at Mount Sterling, NC. Instead I chose the much slower route of taking Hwy 321 east to Hwy 32, then driving south past the Smoky’s Cosby Campground and deep into the woods on twisty Hwy 32. This road, curving around the northeastern Park boundary, could most definitely be dubbed the ‘Tail of the Dragon East’. The real Tail of the Dragon in the southwest corner of the Smokies is well known by motorcycle enthusiasts, but ole’ 32 has to rival the ‘real’ Dragon in number of curves. No motorcycles here yet though, probably due to the fact that it was a chilly start to what would turn out to be a pretty warm day. Thanks in part to the slow going I arrived late and parked at the Big Creek Ranger Station eager to start today’s walk from a new-to-me area. [caption id="attachment_1269" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Chestnut Branch"] [/caption] Warming up on Chestnut Branch Trail The Ranger Station parking area is located just a short distance from the entrance to the Big Creek area and can accommodate a good number of cars. There is a kiosk to register for backcountry camping, which an expertly outfitted Indiana family preparing to hike up the Big Creek Trail to campsite #37 was doing when I arrived. Further up the gravel road is additional parking for quicker access to the Big Creek Trail as well as a picnic area and tent campground. The Chestnut Branch trailhead is better accessed from the Ranger Station parking area, so I set out from there after enjoying a brief look at the cascades of tumbling Big Creek just across the road. The trail heads due west and begins climbing beside Chestnut Branch, immediately coming upon an old concrete cistern and a large metal barricade designed to keep horses off the trail. I barely fit through the small opening in the barricade….I guess most hikers aren’t quite as wide as I am. 8) The forest is thick with rhododendron, tall white pine, and hemlock. After walking mostly bare deciduous forests since last November, it is a noticeably pleasant experience. The trail is rocky and wide and although it is uphill all the way the grade is reasonable at the lower section, just enough to warm up to shed layers once again. I walk frustratingly close to the creek, able to hear it tumble down from the state line ridge but not quite being able to see it. Before long the creek and trail finally meet and continue in parallel, affording the nice views of the cascades I was hoping for. I come across the remains of an old washtub, evidence of the former settlement along this branch. The little brown book describes many old homesites, rock walls, and other artifacts that are noticeable along the trail, but this washtub is the only evidence I see today. I’m not sure how I missed everything else, perhaps it was because I was too busy admiring the forest. Soon the trail switches steeply northwest and away from the creek and the climbing up the side of Cammerer Ridge is more intense. Later there are few pleasant rock-hops across other branches before a final very steep but short climb to the end of the trail at the intersection with the Appalachian Trail at around 3100’ in elevation. I’m definitely warmed up now. [caption id="attachment_1271" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Views of Mount Sterling Ridge from the AT"] [/caption] Finishing the northern end of the Appalachian Trail It’s always great to be back on the AT, walking in the footsteps of the many thousands of section hikers or thru-hikers that have battled the long journey from Fontana Dam to Davenport Gap, Georgia to Maine, or vice versa. Soon there will be a great number of thru-hikers heading north on this section of trail, having braved an unseasonably cold and snowy start since their launch at Springer Mountain in Georgia. As I head south I don’t run into any of them today, and in fact there is isn’t much evidence of the unseasonably cold winter either. It is warming up rapidly and the sun is brutal. The trail climbs through rhodo tunnels along the south side of Cammerer Ridge, with nice distant views of Mount Sterling Ridge to the south. Soon the trail crests the ridge and views begin to appear to the north as well. For much of its time in the Smokies the Appalachian Trail roughly straddles the North Carolina/Tennessee state line, so at some points I’m in one state, some points the other, and at some points both. There is nothing like the breeze you feel when walking on the crest of a ridge, and for the rest of the walk that breeze accompanied me on the short climb to the end of the lollipop handle at the intersection with Lower Mount Cammerer Trail. At around 3500’ elevation, it is the highest point on today’s walk. I was here at this intersection last year on an enjoyable loop to Mount Cammerer from the Cosby area. I contemplate climbing the additional 2.7 miles and 1500’ in elevation to the spectacular tower today, but decide against it thanks to the long detour on tonight’s drive home. It was tough to be that close to the awesome tower on such a gorgeous day and not make it, but reluctantly I swing around and head back north to close out my walk. [caption id="attachment_1272" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Davenport Gap shelter from the AT"] [/caption] Davenport Gap and a road walk on Big Creek Road I slog the easy downhill 1 mile back north along the AT to the intersection with Chestnut Branch Trail to complete the lollipop handle. Now on to closing to the loop. Continuing on the AT past the intersection, the next 0.7 miles are a flat walk through high rhododendron tunnels. Here I run into a large family with young kids heading south that are obviously not thrilled with the steep uphill they just tackled since Davenport Gap. I assure them that they are done with climbing for today since they will be heading back down Chestnut Branch. The kids are definitely happy with that news. The remainder of the trail on to Davenport Gap traverses the north side of the ridge and has very nice views of distant ridges through which I-40 cuts its way toward Newport. Soon those views will be completely obstructed by foliage, but not today. The trail begins to descend sharply through large poplars, looping around a big steep bowl where I notice the roof of Davenport Gap AT backcountry shelter tucked down in a cove. I take the short side trip over to the shelter to check it out. Davenport Gap shelter still has the chain link fence enclosure and like all the old-style shelters it is dark and somewhat uninviting inside. Sitting low in a cove, the shelter is closely surrounded by towering trees and high ridge walls, so in the summer I’m sure the creepy factor issue is amplified. But at least it’s a dry place to rest your head after a long day on the AT. The small water source for the shelter sits just a few feet away and is not very robust. I imagine that it quickly disappears in drought conditions, so if you plan to stay here be aware to check the status of the spring. I sit for a while and enjoy the forest and the company of another busy Wood Thrush while reading the always entertaining shelter journal entries. A common theme is easily apparent in all the thru-hikers entries in this journal…”Man has it been cold.” “Man the snow was tough” and mostly “Man am I glad to be done with the Smokies!”. Ok, so those thru-hikers will have an adventure to share for a lifetime, but how much are they REALLY enjoying it? I’ll stick to day hiking thank you very much. 8) [caption id="attachment_1273" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Davenport Gap shelter"] [/caption] Back on the trail I quickly complete the last downhill mile to end up at Davenport Gap on Hwy 32. With this mile I’ve now completed the 12 northernmost miles of the Appalachian Trail in the National Park from Inadu Knob to Davenport Gap. (and 32.4 of the 71.4 total miles) Those last 39 miles will be a whole lot tougher to complete, with day-hike access being many miles from the nearest road. I vow to complete them before my 100th birthday.....or not. 8) I close the loop by walking the 1.4 miles back to the Ranger Station on Big Creek Road, the gravel entrance road that skirts the boundary of the Park. I notice two things, #1 tons of trash that people throw out their windows here (mostly beer and Red Bull cans), and #2 a large cemetery on a hill just before the junction at Mount Sterling (NC). I spend a few minutes looking around at the old gravesites. Back at the car by early afternoon, I start home and discover the detour route on US 25 through Hot Springs is not as much of an issue as I thought it would be, making it home before dark. Darn, I could’ve taken that extra walk up to the Mount Cammerer tower after all…oh well, maybe next week. 8) [caption id="attachment_1276" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Cemetery close to the Big Creek entrance"] [/caption] Low elevation on today’s 7.5 mile lollipop walk was around 1600’ at the Chestnut Branch trailhead and high elevation was around 3500’ at the Lower Mount Cammerer Trail/Appalachian Trail intersection. There is a bug in my topo software for this area of the Park so I have no idea how much overall climbing I did on this trek, but my guess is around 2200’. For pics of this walk, click the link below: Loop in Big Creek(Opens in new window)

[caption id="attachment_1264" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Signs like these are common in the Smokies this Spring"]

[/caption] To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below: Sugarland Mountain Loop(Opens in new window) 8 mile section walk into the Elkmont area beginning at Fighting Creek Gap. The walk started on the Sugarland Mountain Trail and included Huskey Gap Trail and Little River Trail (plus about 1.5 miles of road walking) – March 19, 2010 I couldn’t pass up another sunny upper 60’s forecast and decided to get an early start on the first weekend of Spring. I drove up Friday morning and as I made my way through the heart of the Smokies on Newfound Gap Road I couldn’t help but notice the signs of Spring that were everywhere. Flowers? Birds? Butterflies? Trees blooming?....nope…not those signs. In fact there’s still quite a bit of snow up above 4000 feet. Instead it was the signs all over the roadsides that said ‘Road Closed for re-paving until late May’. It seems more roads are closed than are open and it could be a challenge to even find a way to get to trailheads until early Summer. Couple the stimulus-induced road work with the recent rock slides (3 of them) and it could be one of the lowest attendance Spring seasons in many years in the Smokies. [caption id="attachment_1257" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Can you tell it\'s Spring?"] [/caption] But you’d never know it based on what I saw Friday when I pulled into the Laurel Falls parking area close to noon. The main lot was crammed full of families with kids out on Spring break, pushing me down the road to overflow parking. But it was warming up nicely and the sun was shining bright without a cloud in the sky, so I was in no mood for complaining. As expected everybody else turned north up that family favorite, the Laurel Falls Trail, while I was on my own after turning south on the trail across the street, the Sugarland Mountain Trail. [caption id="attachment_1258" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Views of the Park Vista Hotel from the trail"] [/caption] Nice views on Sugarland Mountain Trail I had been planning to walk the entire length of the 11.9 mile Sugarland Mountain Trail on a one-day trek, starting high up on Clingmans Dome Road and traveling north to the trail’s end at Fighting Creek Gap. But, with all the road work closures and weather-related plan changes lately I decided not to wait and instead take in the northern 3 miles of the trail in a loop combined with a couple of other trails. With the sun shining bright, the temperatures climbing, and the trail gaining about 600 feet of elevation in the first 2/3 of a mile, it wouldn’t take long to get warmed up. The trail climbs immediately and steeply along the side of a ridge through a forest of medium-sized poplars. With the leaf sprouts still a couple of weeks away, the views are very nice to the north and northeast. At first, views are of Mountain Harrison and the ridge that creates the northern boundary of the Park. I look forward to following that ridge from the Sugarlands Visitor Center on the Cove Mountain Trail someday soon. Climbing further, I stop at a saddle in the ridge to convert my hiking pants into shorts now that I’m sufficiently warmed up. The trail continues climbing through an area of thick grapevine overgrowth on the view side (to the left). Through the vines is a nice view of Gatlinburg, with the tall cylinder of the Park Vista Hotel standing out clearly above the town. [caption id="attachment_1259" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Awesome views of Sugarlands valley"] [/caption] The trail then descends steeply before reaching Mids Gap. I’m certain hikers traveling north on the trail do not appreciate this steep of a climb so near the end of their trek, and I can imagine that many an expletive is mumbled here. If the forest critters were like parrots, I’m sure the guys around these parts would display some colorful language. 8) Going my direction, the trail also begins climbing moderately again just after the Gap, now clearly entering a dry pine-oak forest through mountain laurel. There are several downed trees to deal with, but most are easy to get around without expending too much energy. The trail switches due south and I begin to see stunning views of the peaks of Bull Head and other peaks of still-snowy Mount LeConte, Sugarland Mountain, and the Sugarland Valley. These views will be obstructed soon, and I’m glad I got to see them before the trees bud out. Before long I finish my steady climb and top out for the day at around 3200 feet of elevation. I stop for a rest at peaceful Huskey Gap and enjoy the company of a busy Wood Thrush and butterfly. Signs of Spring. Huskey Gap Trail From Huskey Gap there are three choices where a dayhiker could make a loop back to their car in Fighting Creek Gap. Continuing north on Sugarland Mountain Trail there is a long lollipop option to go down Rough Creek Trail, Little River Trail, and then back up Huskey Gap Trail to return to this point. Including the return to Fighting Creek Gap that loop would be more than 16 miles. Another loop option is east down Huskey Gap Trail to Newfound Gap Road. Without a car shuttle that 10 mile loop would have to be closed with a 5 mile walk on Newfound Gap Road and Little River Road. To the right (west) was my chosen path for today, an 11 mile loop that heads west down Huskey Gap Trail, then back north on Little River Trail. The loop is closed with a 3 mile road walk on Elkmont Road and the Little River Road, unless you have a car shuttle. (or hitchhike like I did..thanks for the ride Mike from Knoxville!) [caption id="attachment_1260" align="aligncenter" width="225" caption="The spine of a dead hemlock"] [/caption] Traveling downhill on Huskey Gap Trail through the mountain laurel, a nice close up of Sugarland Mountain comes into view. The downhill jaunt is nice and gradual. Further along the trail flattens out and comes onto a beautiful crossing of Phoebe Branch. The rock-hop crossing is near several humongous moss-covered boulders, a nice peaceful spot to sit and listen to the creek and nothing else. Before long the sound and sight on the Little River are upon me, and the trail swings around to follow it for a several hundred yards. Swinging away from the river I come upon the sight of the newly relocated Campsite #21, near the former homestead of Ben Parton. Campsite #21 used to be up on Sugarland Mountain Trail, but was relocated here last year. A few steps later I reach the intersection of the Little River Trail. [caption id="attachment_1262" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The Little River"] [/caption] Closing the loop on the Little River Trail and Elkmont Road From this point it’s 2.8 easy gradual downhill miles on the Little River Trail. This part of the ‘trail’ is more road than trail, wide, flat, graveled, and always accompanied by the beautiful Little River as it heads downstream. I was here a year ago this weekend and saw a few flowers that day. On this trek I saw none, save for a couple of daffodils around the old Elkmont cabins. I guess even the flowers have decided to sleep a bit longer thanks to the extra cold winter. I did see a ranger with a rifle slung over his shoulder heading up the trail. I assume he was on his way up to deal with the wild boar activity that was evident on the sides of the trail. I reached the crowded parking area at Elkmont and started the road walk back to Fighting Creek Gap, fortunately catching a ride back to Fighting Creek Gap thanks to the aforementioned Mike. Another great day in the Smokies and another gorgeous Spring season fast approaching...the signs are everywhere. The good news was it was Friday and I still had tomorrow for another walk. [caption id="attachment_1263" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The Little River near Elkmont"] [/caption] Low elevation on today’s 8 mile loop walk was around 2175’ at the Little River Trail trailhead and high elevation was about 3175’ at Huskey Gap. The walk included almost 2000’ of overall climbing. For pics of this walk, click the link below: Sugarland Mountain Loop(Opens in new window)

[caption id="attachment_1226" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Jones Gap State Park Visitor Center"]

[/caption] To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below: Jones Gap Trail(Opens in new window) 11.5 mile (approx.) out-and-back walk in South Carolina’s gorgeous Mountain Bridge Wilderness Area. The walk started and ended at the Jones Gap trailhead in Jones Gap State Park and included Coldspring Branch Trail and Bill Kimball Trail – March 7, 2010 Ah Spring…. Well, not quite, but the forecast on the first weekend of March called for clear skies and 60 degrees, so you know the trails around all Appalachia were going to be busting at the seams with winter weary hikers. I also couldn’t resist. After a day of long overdue yard maintenance on Saturday, I hit the road Sunday morning to knock some winter rust off my hiking legs in South Carolina’s Mountain Bridge Wilderness Area. Because of the one day up and back I chose not to go all the way to the Smokies and instead stay closer to home. Destination today was Jones Gap State Park, the east side of the mountain bridge. In November I walked the west side of the bridge on the Raven Cliff Falls loop at Caesars Head State Park. [caption id="attachment_1246" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The Mountain Bridge Wilderness Area"] [/caption] As I have learned through experience the past couple of years it is wise to have a Plan B, especially when hiking in the winter. Today would be no exception as my planned walk along the Rim of the Gap Trail would have to be scrubbed due to icy conditions. As hard as it was to believe on a day like today when it would eventually reach 60 degrees, slush, snow, and ice would become a problem later on. Jones Gap State Park sits in a cool gorge between high mountain ledges on three sides, and the sun doesn’t penetrate the north slopes. This means that despite the low elevations by Smokies standards it still will take a while before all remnants of this colder-than-usual winter are gone from around these parts. [caption id="attachment_1227" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The Middle Saluda River"] [/caption] Plan B – Jones Gap Trail The Jones Gap Trail follows the Middle Saluda River upstream through the heart of the 11,000 acre Mountain Bridge Wilderness Area to connect Jones Gap State Park on the east to Caesars Head State Park on the west. After a nice walk through the manicured grounds and big hemlocks of the Visitor Center area and around the remnants of the former Cleveland Fish Hatchery, I started westbound and uphill on the Jones Gap Trail. I could tell I was in for a treat as the exceptionally scenic and big boulder strewn Middle Saluda River tumbled down just to the right of the trail. The wide and well graded trail passes through impressive boulder fields and reminded me of my day on the Middle Prong Trail in the Great Smokies. I continue gradually uphill on the blue-blazed trail and eventually pass primitive streamside campsites on the right. All of the campsites have a fire ring and a large flat area for tents and you can get to them without too much effort, making the spots ideal for backpackers that enjoy the camping part as much as the ‘getting there’ part. Many of the sites were filling up with young families on my return trip. Continuing on I notice the low elevation valley is filled with rhododendron, pine, and mainly healthy hemlock trees. I see some evidence of the Hemlock Wooley Adelgid on downed limbs, but it appears that the serious infestation hasn’t quite arrived in these parts yet. Unfortunately it is just a matter of time. [caption id="attachment_1232" align="aligncenter" width="225" caption="Jones Gap Falls"] [/caption] About 1.5 miles up the trail I come to the short spur that leads to very picturesque Jones Gap Falls. This fall is either 40 or 50 feet high, depending on which website you believe. The fall flows nicely today over the striated rock so prevalent here on the edge of the Blue Ridge escarpment. After a short break I continue on up the Jones Gap Trail, enjoying the gentle grade and wide, easy walking. The Middle Saluda never leaves the trail for more than a short time, and there are many cascades and mini-falls to stop and enjoy along the way. There are also some very impressive new footbridges to stroll across. Before long I reach the intersection with the Coldspring Branch Trail and the familiar full color map that graces every major intersection in this Wilderness. [caption id="attachment_1228" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="A cascade of the Middle Saluda"] [/caption] Saying goodbye to an old friend on Coldspring Branch Trail Orange-blazed Coldspring Branch Trail moves southwest and away from the Middle Saluda River, traveling uphill beside…you guessed it…Coldspring Branch. After a quick downhill and another of those impressive new bridges the going gets steep. For a short while it is real steep. When I stop to take a breath I notice the homes sitting perched on the ridgetop of the canyon wall to the south. What nice views into the gorge they must have. Around the bend thankfully the steepness subsides a bit, and the first of several semi-tricky crossings of Coldspring Branch appears. Just after the crossing I notice the snow on the north face, and on the trail it begins to get thicker in spots. [caption id="attachment_1231" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Slush along the trail"] [/caption] Continuing uphill through the dense rhododendron tunnels and snow, I occasionally slow to tackle the tricky crossings. The snow isn’t too big of a deal but it does cause me to slow down and watch my step. On the last big creek crossing I get careless and lose my concentration for a split second…down goes Frasier! Smash. Ouch. R.I.P. Kodak Easyshare DX7590, A.K.A. Kody (2005-2010). Parts of my old friend now lie beneath Coldspring Branch. Trying to move too quickly through the many crossings and probably getting cocky with each success, I failed to take the proper pause to survey the best route and it wound up costing me. My back takes another big hit and my arm suffers a decent bloody scrape, but fortunately it is not deep..just enough for other hikers to have some pity on the old man. It’s another reminder that anything can happen out here in the woods at any time no matter how experienced you are. Just a split second is all it takes. Another hard fall and another bullet dodged for me, but I’m not sure my back is going to take many more of these. Turning back on Bill Kimball Trail I eventually complete the climb up Coldspring Branch Trail and reach the Bill Kimball Trail intersection where I rest and enjoy a conversation with a local couple and their dogs. (yes, I like talking to dogs too) After a rest I continue on pink-blazed Bill Kimball Trail, a ridgetop beauty with nice winter views of each side of the canyon walls through which the Middle Saluda cuts. (you’ll have to take my word for it…remember, no camera) Here I top out at around 3000’ elevation amongst a pleasant white pine and hemlock forest and then switch back onto the north face to start a very steep descent back to the floor of the gorge. The north face, however, is still covered in a very thick layer of snow and ice. That fact combined with a very steep descent and the earlier mishap means it will not be a lollipop for me today. I decide to abandon here, turning around and retracing my steps the way I came in. With nothing new to see the return trip is a long one, but I eventually reach my car bloodied, bruised and minus one friend but happy to have spent a beautiful day in the stellar South Carolina mountains. [caption id="attachment_1224" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="JGSP is a real gem"] [/caption] Low elevation on today’s 11.5 mile out-and-back walk was around 1400’ at the Jones Gap trailhead and high elevation was around 3000’ on the Bill Kimball Trail. I’m not sure how much overall climbing I did, but I presume it was around 2000’, enough to knock some of the winter rust off of me. I highly recommend a visit to our stunning state parks in the Upstate of South Carolina. You’ll be pleasantly surprised by the beauty of the waterfalls, forests, and mountain views that you find there. The trails that I’ve seen so far are also very well maintained like we spoiled Smokies hikers are accustomed to. 8) For pics of this walk, click the link below: Jones Gap Trail(Opens in new window)

[caption id="attachment_1215" align="alignleft" width="225" caption="Jones Gap Falls"] [/caption] Sunday I took a nice drive up to the Mountain Bridge Wilderness Area in South Carolina for a lollipop hike starting at Jones Gap State Park. I'll post the journal from this walk later in the week. It was a nice day in the sun, snow, and ice, but there was one casualty... R.I.P. to a constant companion since I started this hobby almost 2 years ago.....my Kodak Easyshare DX7590. A split second of lapsed concentration equaled one nasty fall, and poor Kody didn't make it. Parts of Kody lie forever in depths of Coldspring Creek. The salvaged pieces made one last trip back home for picture retrieval and proper burial. Kody, you've been there through almost 500 miles of harsh mountain walks, survived countless falls, and continued to capture many great family memories. You will be missed. Kody (2005-2010) (insert sound of TAPS playing..) 8)