Old Dan Walking

I was looking through old pics and came across this oldie....Old Dan loved the mountains even when he was Young, and with much more hair, Dan. Here I am on our epic family Colorado trip in Summer 1983 at 14,110 foot Pikes Peak, Colorado Springs. Viking helmets, short shorts and Tony Danza haircuts were all the rage back then. 8) [caption id="attachment_1502" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Dad (Ernie), Tom (22), Young Dan (18), and Ted (19)"] [/caption]

At last the rockslide work has nearly completed and the I-40 section closed since late October has been re-opened. That means easier access to some un-hiked trails in the Big Creek and Cosby areas.

Cool...Kody II arrived yesterday, my new Kodak EasyShare Z981. I've gotten used to the tiny stand-in camera used since I busted Kody #1 (a Nikon Coolpix L22), so this camera is a monster by comparison. Can't wait to get up to the mountains to try out the panorama shots. For now I'll have to settle for a panorama of the back yard taken by my son Nick and a shot of the local wildlife. 8) Click on the images to zoom

[caption id="attachment_1454" align="aligncenter" width="400" caption="Twentymile Creek"]

[/caption] To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below: Twentymile to Gregory Bald(Opens in new window) 15.6 mile loop walk up to Gregory Bald from the Twentymile area in the remote southwest corner of the Smokies. The walk started and ended at the Twentymile Ranger Station and included Twentymile Trail, Long Hungry Ridge Trail, Gregory Bald Trail, and Wolf Ridge Trail – April 17, 2010 [caption id="attachment_1455" align="aligncenter" width="225" caption="Twentymile Creek tumbles down into Cheoah Lake"] [/caption] Driving up to the Smoky Mountains on Friday night the realization came over me that things have changed a bit with my hiking hobby. Out of habit I almost made the right turn off of Hwy 74 to head towards former base camp in Cherokee like I’d done for almost two years straight now. Tonight, however, I’d need to head a few miles further west to overnight in Bryson City in preparation for a Saturday walk in a new-to-me Smokies area, the Twentymile area in the quiet and remote southwest corner of the Park. Saturday’s forecast wasn’t ideal, with a late-season cold front due to drop into the Smokies and possibly add some showers to my parade. As it turned out though, the rain never really materialized and the mere threat of showers must have kept everybody else at home because I saw nary a human the entire day. The always-beautiful drive up Hwy 28 towards Fontana Dam and Deals Gap was especially scenic in the morning with the sun coming up over Fontana Lake, so I had to stop at an overlook and take a few pictures. I pulled into the Twentymile area around 8 AM and prepared for a long day and a big climb, leaving my hike plan on the front seat just in case anybody had to come looking for me. 8) [caption id="attachment_1457" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="White trillium"] [/caption] Morning flower show on Twentymile Trail Ninety years ago the Kitchin Lumber Company set up shop in this area and logged the hills until the Park was established. Now hikers can enjoy the benefit of former railroad grades used by the logging operation on the gradual climb up to Proctor Field Gap along Twentymile Trail. The trail snakes alongside tumbling Twentymile Creek, a gorgeous creek with a numerous cascades and slides and a strong flow that starts way up on the state line ridge many miles away. As I walked up the trail my only dilemma was which side of the trail do I look at? On the right was view after view of the tumbling creek, and on the left was a spectacular show of early-Spring wildflowers like only the Smokies can provide. Of particular note were the many giant Toadshade Trillium and Crested Dwarf Iris. It’s a beautiful morning in the Smokies. [caption id="attachment_1456" align="aligncenter" width="225" caption="Twentymile Cascades"] [/caption] After 0.5 mile I reach the Wolf Ridge Trail intersection beside Moore Springs Branch. Here I continue to the right on Twentymile Trail and quickly come upon the short spur over to the Twentymile Cascades, a nice multi-level cascade probably 20 feet tall. It is picturesque but with a long walk planned today I have no time to linger. I slowly progress up the trail, stopping often for pictures of flowers or the bold creek. At 1.8 miles I reach campsite #93 on the left, saying hello to the only two humans I’ll see all day as they set up their tent beside the creek. With the creek now on the left I’m warming up as I continue to climb, reaching 2400 elevation at Proctor Field Gap and the intersection with two other trails. From here, options are to head west back to the Ranger Station on Twentymile Loop Trail, which connects with Wolf Ridge Trail for a 7 mile loop, continue east on Twentymile Trail 2 miles to the Appalachian Trail, or my route, which is a 4.6 mile northerly climb on Long Hungry Ridge Trail up to the state line ridge. [caption id="attachment_1458" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Spring color along Long Hungry Ridge Trail"] [/caption] A relentless climb up Long Hungry Ridge Trail Long Hungry Ridge Trail, named for a party of bear hunters stranded on this ridge in the early twentieth century, teases with a short descent, a crossing of Proctor Branch, and about a mile of flat creekside strolling before the party really begins. Here the exceptionally tall walls of rhododendron on the left block views of Twentymile Creek before the trail reaches campsite #92, switching sharply to the left. Two tricky crossings of Twentymile Creek are just above the campsite, and I decide to just plunge through the nearly knee deep water instead of trying to rock-hop. After the crossings the serious climbing up the side of Long Hungry Ridge begins. [caption id="attachment_1459" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Views from Rye Patch"] [/caption] The forest immediately changes character as I leave the creeks behind to start the ridge climbing/walking phase of today’s loop. Being that this will be the longest walk I’ve tackled so far this year, I make a conscious effort to slow considerably and conserve energy as I climb steadily up through the dry pine/oak forest. In the next 2.5 miles I’ll gain 2000 feet in elevation, enjoying nice ridge views and the emerging colors of Spring along the way. I crest the ridge and switch back to the right at Rye Patch, a flat knoll facing south that is clearly often used for camping. The remaining climb up to the state line ridge is gradual as it passes through emerging blackberry bushes, eventually reaching trail’s end at the Gregory Bald Trail junction. I stop for a rest and realize I’ve lost my custom olddanwalking.com hat somewhere back on the trail! [caption id="attachment_1460" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Spring beauties along Gregory Bald Trail"] [/caption] Spectacular Gregory Bald It’s chilly now as I stroll west along gorgeous Gregory Bald Trail. The combination of the ridgetop grasses, the cool breezes, and the Spring Beauty wildflowers exploding all over the ridge make this particular route a real stunner. I’m walking along the state line as I climb toward the Bald, and can now begin to see views into Tennessee. On the side of Gregory Bald I hear a rustling in the leaves and stop. The rustling continues and then a doe emerges from the trees directly in front of me. She stops but doesn’t flee, then slowly continues on her way like I wasn’t even there. [caption id="attachment_1461" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The only company I had on the trails today"] [/caption] [caption id="attachment_1462" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Views into Cades Cove from Gregory Bald"] [/caption] I emerge onto Gregory Bald, a huge grassy expanse at 4949 feet in elevation now partially covered in flame azalea and a few trees. What can you say about this place but WOW! A Smoky Mountain Hall-of-Fame destination for sure. The flame azalea won’t bloom until June and due to the cold front the views aren’t as ideal they could be, but it doesn't matter, this place is still stunning. Views are all around, most impressive being the one looking directly down into Cades Cove. I imagine past Cades Cove residents grazing their livestock up here and looking down on their homes and wonder if they felt its beauty too despite all the hardship they had to endure in those days. With the closures of Cades Cove and other roads I have the extremely rare privilege of having the Bald all to myself, but my visit was way too short. With many miles yet to travel soon I’m descending back down the west side of the Bald and reach picturesque Sheep Pen Gap, site of campsite #13 and intersection with the Wolf Ridge Trail. [caption id="attachment_1463" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="USGS marker on Gregory Bald at 4949 feet"] [/caption] [caption id="attachment_1464" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Peaceful Sheep Pen Gap"] [/caption] Closing the loop on Wolf Ridge Trail A nice 1 mile flat ridgetop walk has me on Parson Bald at 4732 feet in elevation. This bald is not as open as Gregory, as the forest has encroached significantly upon the grasses. From here I begin the very long descent down Wolf Ridge Trail, named for the gray wolves that used to live in these mountains. I coast downhill in the relentless sun, wishing I had my hat. Now that I’m 13+ miles into my walk I worry constantly about being blocked by blowdowns, but thankfully I come across only one. I would not have the energy or time to backtrack so I’m thankful for that. [caption id="attachment_1465" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Views through the trees from Wolf Ridge Trail"] [/caption] Along the downhill I’m always accompanied by beautiful views to the west through the emerging buds. Occasionally I come across pretty block fields, fields of giant boulders of Elkmont sandstone. After a long trudge I reach the spur trail for campsite #95, switching sharply left for a more gradual descent paralleling Dalton Branch for the next mile. [caption id="attachment_1466" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Footlog crossing of Moore Springs Branch"] [/caption] I soon reach the intersection with Twentymile Loop Trail. From here it is an easy 1.6 miles back to the Ranger Station with the highlight being several new footlog crossings of Dalton Branch and Moore Springs Branch. The bridges are lashed to nearby trees with cable because this area has a history of dealing with high water. I’m relieved to reach my car with plenty of sunlight remaining and plenty of energy to tackle the long drive back to South Carolina. Low elevation on today’s 15.6 mile loop walk was around 1350’ at the Twentymile Ranger Station and trailhead and high elevation was 4949’ atop Gregory Bald. The walk included over 4900’ in overall climbing, an outstanding workout. Although the loop was longer than I prefer, it is unquestionably a top 5 walk and I look forward to returning to Gregory Bald from one of the other access trails in the future. For pics of this walk, click the link below: Twentymile to Gregory Bald(Opens in new window)

I didn't do any hiking over my boy's Easter break, but we did putter around a few places and I also took a long motorcycle ride through the Robbinsville/Fontana area. Here are a few random shots. (Click image to view full size) When touring around after the big Thursday rains were treated to this rare sight. A group of elk tried to walk directly beside Newfound Gap Road and then got spooked and crossed the Oconaluftee River to rejoin the rest of the herd. (Photos by Thomas DeSetto) Mr. Groundhog near Oconaluftee Visitor Center. (Photos by Thomas DeSetto) Some views along Newfound Gap Road. (Photos by Thomas DeSetto) More views along Newfound Gap Road. (Photos by Thomas DeSetto) The boys check out Mingo Falls. Nick DeSetto Photographer Thomas DeSetto. Cheoah Dam - Here Dr. Richard Kimball (Harrison Ford) did a 'Peter Pan' while being chased by Detective Samuel Gerard (Tommy Lee Jones) in the excellent 1993 film The Fugitive. Gorgeous Santeetlah Lake near Robbinsville, NC. Fontana Lake from Hwy 28 Toadshade Trillium near the Twentymile Ranger Station Twentymile Creek.

[caption id="attachment_1436" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Bloodroot"]

[/caption] To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below: Palmetto Trail – Poinsett Passage(Opens in new window) Approximately 9.8 mile out-and-back walk on South Carolina’s Palmetto Trail – the Poinsett Passage section. The walk started at Orchard Lake Campground in Saluda, North Carolina and the turnaround point was Vaughns Gap in South Carolina – April 3, 2010 South Carolina’s Palmetto Trail is a planned 425 mile hiking and mountain biking trail starting in the mountains of the Upstate (Oconee County) and roughly bisecting the state as it travels to the terminus near Charleston. Currently roughly 235 of the planned 425 miles are complete, and the trail is broken into sections called passages. On Easter-eve I traveled back to the mountains for my first ‘official’ walk on the Palmetto Trail. Goal was a 13.2 out-and-back on the Poinsett Passage, a ridgetop walk along the Brushy Ridge, which separates North Carolina from South Carolina’s Greenville Watershed property. The first Saturday of April was to be unusually warm, and early blooms and showy flowers were making quite a scene on the roads to the trail. If you’ve never been through Landrum, SC or Tryon, NC, you should take the time to drive through on Hwy 176 north of Greenville and south of Hendersonville. These are quaint little mountain towns straddling the border of the two states showcasing the simple downtown scenes that are so pleasant to drive through. Nothing was open yet on my early-morning drive but I still had to crack a smile. I will make a point to stop by on a future trip where I don’t have 13 miles of walking to cover. [caption id="attachment_1431" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Lake Lanier near Tryon"] [/caption] Detours and wasted hours The old familiar sight of a ‘Road Closed’ sign awaited me when I made the turn off of 176 to head to the western trailhead of the Poinsett Passage at Orchard Lake Campground in Saluda, NC. Well, this isn’t starting out too well….foreshadowing a tough day to come. I turned around and headed back the way I came, finally stopping to ask a Greenville County Policeman for directions to the road I thought was supposed to be at the eastern end of the passage. I encircled crowded Lake Lanier looking for the Palmetto Trail, not the big Lake Lanier in Georgia but a smaller version near Tryon. This Lake Lanier had houses on every square inch of shoreline. After a twisty drive around the lake I was finally able to find the Palmetto Trail. The problem…it wasn’t the passage I was going to walk, instead it was the western trailhead for the Blue Wall Passage, a section that connects to the eastern end of the Poinsett Passage, but only after a 12 mile one-way walk. Frustrated, I turned around and made a 50 mile detour around the Greenville Watershed, finally arriving at the campground nearly two hours later than my expected launch time. Even more frustrating, I would later learn that the original road closed sign was for a closure beyond where I would’ve turned off to get to the campground…in about 5 miles instead of 50! Arghh! It was clearly not going to be my day. [caption id="attachment_1435" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="One of many state line markers lining the trail"] [/caption] Neighborhood walking on the west end of the Poinsett Passage The west end of the Poinsett Passage begins with a road crossing and then a short road walk along Fork Creek Road before ducking into the woods after a tenth or so. Here the trail meanders through a lowland pine forest that includes many American Holly trees. Despite the trail feel, the initial few tenths is only a few yards to the right of the road and passes several homes. Ahh, nothing like the sounds of nature….chainsaws, lawn tractors, weed eaters, hammers, screaming kids, the whole nine yards, maybe ten. I dare not complain though about civilization because I would be in need of some later in the day. [caption id="attachment_1434" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Independent Baptist Church"] [/caption] Soon the trail approaches gold-spired Independent Baptist Church and turns away from the road. I stop to look at a few graves in the church graveyard, with headstones dating back to the early 20th century. Unfortunately someone tending the graves has decided that old plastic flowers and other grave decorations should be disposed of in the forest just behind the church. With the trail now running directly behind the church it is a discouraging scene. I also begin to notice the small cement state line markers every few yards. These red painted markers would be with me most of the day as I traveled roughly along the state line from west to east. Occasionally there is some nice rockwork and wooden steps to help with the climb up Brushy Ridge. I leave the sound of civilization behind. As is the case all day when walking in this direction, to the left of me is private land in North Carolina and to my right is land managed as the Greenville Watershed. Strict rules apply to the watershed land, and there are signs posted on many trees warning of stern penalties for trespassing and illegal use. Thankfully hiking isn’t considered trespassing, but just about everything else is. Switching back to the left I trudge up the first reasonable climb and once I reach the top of the ridge I am stunned by the beautiful display of hundreds of bloodroot flowers, one of the early bloomers at these elevations. The ridgetop breezes and gradual climbing have me thoroughly enjoying the experience, for now. I continue eastward and come to the area shown on the map as ‘switchbacks’. It is a downhill section followed by a steep uphill along with wooden-staired switchbacks. It is here I begin to encounter the many obstacles I’ll deal with today in the way of blowdowns across the trail. Every few yards is another to deal with. The forest is relatively new growth, so most are just annoyances more than the big-tree obstacles often found in the Smokies. But dealing with all the obstacles slows me down considerably, and combined with the heat and relentless sun through the bare trees, it will add up to problems later in the afternoon. Finally I regain the ridge and am re-energized by the cool breezes across the top of Brushy Ridge. To the right are nice views into the Poinsett Watershed and to the left are views into North Carolina. The energy wouldn’t last long because soon I’m climbing over, around, and through more blowdowns. One flat area is particularly difficult, I had never seen so much debris on a trail. It must have been some powerful storms that took down this much of the forest. I make it through slightly worried but thinking that since I was able to make it through going in this direction I should be good for the return trip this afternoon. Sure Skippy… [caption id="attachment_1437" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Views at the edge of the Blue Ridge escarpment"] [/caption] After a struggle I finally reach the trail kiosk on gravel Hogback Mountain Road. I’m not sure what possessed me to continue on to Vaughns Gap from here, but I decided that if I had struggled this much to get to this point then I’m going to finish this section officially. So I turn south and take the nearly 2 mile gravel road walk up and over Rocky Spur to finally reach Vaughns Gap and the official end of the Poinsett Passage section, 6.6 miles from the start at Orchard Lake Campground. This is west end of the Blue Wall Passage, a section of the Palmetto Trail that drops down out of the mountains and connects up with the aforementioned Lake Lanier 12 miles away. At Vaughns Gap I turn around and start my return trip continually taking jabs at myself for walking this ridiculous road. Other than saying I completed the section the road walk is a major drag, hot, dusty, steep climbing, and exposed to the baking sun. The only redeeming factors are the occasional views onto the valley floor through the trees and the extra calories burned. Next time….no way! [caption id="attachment_1438" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Finally arriving at Vaughns Gap"] [/caption] [caption id="attachment_1439" align="aligncenter" width="225" caption="The western end of the Blue Wall Passage"] [/caption] How an experienced hiker gets lost We all know what happens about 3 miles into my 6.6 mile return trip. The debris-strewn section I had worried about earlier turned out to bite me squarely in the behind. On the outbound leg I noticed there weren’t many yellow blazes in this area and had some trouble staying on course. On the return leg I stepped around an area of heavy debris and reentered what I thought was the trail…only to realize later after crawling through even more tangled messes that I was not on the trail. At first I wasn’t concerned, I figured I’d just crawl back the way I came. Well folks…for me on this day it wasn’t that easy. I circled the ridge countless times fighting my way through heavy brush and looking for the trail, but to no avail. Now I was not only completely worn out but in the middle of an impossible tangled mess and with no idea how to get back on track. It was already later than planned due to my earlier detours and extra time spent on the outbound leg. I decided to stop moving and call for help. Thanks to the continual looping and probably the adrenaline rush I had no energy left to move another foot. Scary..I’d never really experienced that level of crash before. When I called for help I didn’t plan for it to turn into the big ta-doo that it wound up becoming. Although I was completely spent I knew I wasn’t in any real danger…I had just passed a house about a tenth of a mile back, knew I was not far from the trail, knew which direction my car was in, plus even if I couldn’t find my way out it wasn’t going to be too cold on this night. But I still wasn’t looking forward to playing Survivorman without the right supplies. I also was fortunate to have cell phone reception. I figured I’d get my coordinates off of the GPS and just have somebody tell which direction was best to walk to get back on the trail. Unfortunately my GPS software didn’t cover this area of the mountains so the trail and area details weren’t shown, but at least I had my coordinates. [caption id="attachment_1441" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Lost in a tangled maze"] [/caption] Well it turned out to be a pretty complicated process. Because the trail was not in a National or State Park and also crosses state lines, 3 different units responded, only one of which really being familiar with the trail. I had Saluda Fire and Rescue (with ATVs), Greenville County (with dogs), and the Greenville Watershed Wardens out looking for me. I was on the phone with the first and second units, while Grady McCombs from the Greenville Watershed, the person most familiar with the trail, tried repeatedly to reach me to help guide me out. Had I been able to answer his call, I probably could’ve saved the other two teams some work because Grady helped blaze this trail. While talking with the responding units I surveyed around and fortunately was able to spot a house several hundred yards through the trees across a small ravine. I wasn’t sure I could get there, but I had my energy back so I struggled through the brush and thankfully made it to the house, which turned out to be on Hogback Mountain Road, the same road I had walked on earlier in the day. I was extremely relieved to see Grady pull up to the house. We called off the other teams and then Grady graciously took me back to my car at the campground. I thanked him profusely, and also vowed to become a regular visitor to his barbeque restaurant, the Huntin’ Camp BBQ & Grill in Travelers Rest. Thanks Grady and all the team members that came looking for me! Thank God for people such as Grady and the others that are dedicated to helping out those in need. While on the phone with his team Grady said that the Greenville search team had come across another lost hiker…..what a day! [caption id="attachment_1442" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Thanks to Grady McCombs I arrive at the car before sunset"] [/caption] Low elevation on today’s planned 13.2 mile out-and-back walk was 2125’ at the Orchard Lake Campground trailhead and high elevation was 3060’ at Rocky Spur on Hogback Mountain Road. I don’t know how much overall climbing I did, but with the several loops around the ridge looking for the trail it was almost more than I could take. For pics of this walk, click the link below: Palmetto Trail – Poinsett Passage(Opens in new window)

[caption id="attachment_1324" align="aligncenter" width="225" caption="Lost"] [/caption] After logging so many miles afoot in the eastern mountains and a few other places, I now consider myself a pretty experienced hiker. I can read maps with no issue, read a compass, work a GPS, even tell direction with just the sun. But alas, none of that mattered today when I found myself lost in a maze of winter blowdown debris on South Carolina's Palmetto Trail. After stepping around a big blowdown, reentering the trail at the wrong spot, circuling the ridge several times to the point of complete and utter exhaustion, I finally realized I was unable to find my way back to the trail through all the mess and had to call for help. Yep...Old Dan creates a two state emergency and the ATVs and dogs were out in force looking. Obviously all ended well....I made it back home in time to sit and write this. It can happen folks. I just want to say thanks to all the people that came out to help...you folks are real heroes. More later. Have a Happy and Joyous Easter everybody! -Old Dan