Old Dan Walking

[caption id="attachment_465" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Getting ready to walk Middle Prong Trail"]

[/caption] To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below: Tremont to Derrick Knob Shelter(Opens in new window) Personal record 17.2 mile out-and-back walk out of the Tremont area up Middle Prong Trail and Greenbrier Ridge Trail to the Derrick Knob Appalachian Trail shelter - May 30, 2009 I woke up shivering at 4 AM Saturday morning, is it really the last weekend of May? I had gone to sleep with the windows open in the camper and woke up to about 48 degrees in the Cherokee area. You never know what you’ll get up here in the mountains, but I probably should’ve paid better attention to the forecast. I certainly wasn’t complaining though because the front that dropped the temps had also cleared out all the humidity from weeks of rain up here, a bonus that would be very welcome on today’s planned 17 mile climb up to the Appalachian Trail. It was setting up to be a gorgeous day. So out the door I went before sunrise (again) for the 56 mile drive over the Smokies and my first visit to the Tremont area, a former logging community in the Park’s Northwest corner. I was starting to get a bit grumpy about all the driving and hustling around for these early starts. It was my fifth consecutive weekend driving up here on a Friday night, and typically following it up a few hours later with another long drive to a trailhead to see a new area of the Park. But thoughts of not making the trip this weekend evaporated about mid-week when I got on the scale and finally noticed some positive momentum. No time for whining, I’ve got to climb again… [caption id="attachment_461" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Got to get up early for views like this one"] [/caption] Before Newfound Gap the views of the Oconaluftee Valley were too good to pass up, so I had to stop for a couple pictures. Man, it’s cold up here! Back in the car thoughts were on how few of the Smoky’s wild creatures, particularly bears, I’ve encountered in my 250 miles of walking. One bear in 250 miles? I think to myself how I don’t believe the Park Service’s estimate of 1500 Black Bear in the Park. Not 30 seconds later, around a bend just down the hill from Newfound Gap…Bear #2 sighting! This guy was standing straight up just behind the wooden guard rail beside the road, looking for a safe place to cross to the ridge above. I was already going slow due to big downhill curves on this part of the highway, so our eyes met as I cruised slowly by with Old Smoky standing there upright only about 10 feet away. Pretty cool. Make sure you check the awesome picture I got of him in the photo gallery. Usually I don’t boast about my photography, but I’m proud of that shot. 8) Now I can really stop whining, because if not for the walk schedule necessitating an early dawn exit, I would’ve missed those stunning views of the valley and my friend the bear. Next time I’m up at 4 AM I’ll see if I remember today’s lesson. I doubt it, I’m sure I’ll whine again. Climbing to the AT again, this time up Middle Prong Trail [caption id="attachment_462" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Lynn Camp Prong"] [/caption] After having lots of fun driving the dirt entry route to the Tremont trailhead and admiring the awesome beauty of another ‘new to me’ Smoky Mountain area, I crossed the attractive footbridge over tumbling Lynn Camp Prong and started today’s long walk. The Middle Prong Trail is a wide gravel road between high rocky cliff walls on the right and Lynn Camp Prong on the left. Lynn Camp Prong is exceptional as it tumbles down from up on Miry Ridge through huge boulder fields. It contains several very nice deep pool, fall and cascade areas and benches have been placed next to the creek to take it all in. Again, no time for that today, I have a long climb yet. If you’re looking for one of those areas with high bang for the short mileage buck, the mild grade and extraordinary beauty of this section of Middle Prong Trail should put this place on your to-do list. [caption id="attachment_466" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Lynn Camp Prong"] [/caption] Along this walk I pass the sites of formerly thriving logging towns that sprang up deep into the hills in pre-park days. There is very little trace of a thriving community today, and I notice only an old rusty rail line and several flat areas where homes and stores were as the only traces. The Little River Lumber Company cut everything not made of rock prior to selling the used-up land to the Park, and built railroads up to the crest of the Smokies. Today I would walk those former railroad beds all the way to the top. 2.3 low- effort miles later I reach the Panther Creek Trail intersection. Off to the left is Panther Creek Trail, which has a pretty tough crossing just a few feet ahead. I’ll do that one some other time, hopefully when the water level is bit lower. From here it’s another 1.8 up to the intersection with Lynn Camp Prong Trail, and that part of the trail requires slightly more effort as it switches away from the creek and uphill. Here I am passed by Thomas from Knoxville, a very nice gentleman that has walked these mountains since 1971. Thomas and I talk for about 20 minutes and he offers many great tips and suggestions about future loop hikes. It is great to meet up with nice folks on the trail that are willing to share the wisdom they’ve gained walking around up here. Thomas goes on up Greenbrier Ridge Trail while I grab a quick bite. Greenbrier Ridge Trail The first part of Greenbrier Ridge Trail is a flat walk along Mellinger Death Ridge and beside Indian Flats Prong. But as with all Smoky Mountain trails, the flats..they ain’t gonna last. First I deal with two crossings, the first of which is pretty tough. I sacrifice one foot to the stream but only for an instant. After the crossings, steadily uphill I go. It’s déjà-vu all over again. Due to the fact that I’m walking another former railroad grade, however, this uphill climb doesn’t seem nearly as grueling as other trails I’ve climbed recently. After a switchback surrounded by dead hemlocks, I begin to see mountain ridges off to the left. During a climb you always think that means you must be getting close to the top. Not even close. Long way to go. About ¾ of the way up there is a flat area and a huge hog bog that I have to step around. This flat area lasts for a while, and it turns out to be one of those false gaps, a low point in a ridge but not a real gap. Smokies trails often intersect other trails at gaps, so of course I think I must be at the top. It is a tough mental adjustment to get ready to tackle the remaining uphill mile after the false gap. But I shake it off after some choice words for that false gap and some nice views of the mountains on both sides of the trail, and make it to a real gap, Sams Gap, and the intersection with the Appalachian Trail. A short walk on the AT to Derrick Knob [caption id="attachment_464" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Derrick Knob Shelter"] [/caption] Happy to be back on the AT, I head southbound up a very steep but short section over Big Chestnut Bald and in no time I’ve covered the 0.3 miles. I take my first look at Derrick Knob shelter, nestled in the corner of the former bald in a gorgeous flat area surrounded by high grass and blackberry bushes. I have lunch at the shelter and read the Appalachian Trail log book. It is sunny, breezy, and absolutely spectacular weather. Zero humidity. This is about as good as it gets. It feels much more like late September than late May. I didn’t want to leave the shelter, but after lunch it’s back down the mountain the way I came up. At the AT-Greenbrier Ridge Trail intersection, I think briefly about making a longer loop of it by heading north to the Miry Ridge Trail, but decide against trying the 20.2 mile alternative. When I get back to the trailhead to complete the 17.2 miles, by far my longest walk to date, I semi-kick myself for not doing the 20.2. I had enough energy in reserve that I could’ve done it. Despite being by far my longest walk, these 17.2 miles were not even in my top 5 in terms of difficulty. Trail difficulty is a very tough thing to measure, and so many factors go into your own personal opinion of the difficulty of a trail. I’m now in slightly less pathetic shape than I was in when I did some of the shorter trails that rank higher on my list. Also, the dry, cool weather on this late-May Saturday was a big factor. Another big factor was the grade of the trail. When the early twentieth-century rail workers were taking on the back-breaking task of laying tracks for the lumber company Shay locomotives, they never could've imagined that 80 years later hikers would get such enjoyment out of their hard work. Low elevation on today’s 17.2 mile walk was around 1900’ at the Middle Prong trailhead in Tremont and the high elevation was around 5000’ on the Appalachian Trail near Big Chestnut Bald. For pics of this walk, click the link below: Tremont to Derrick Knob Shelter(Opens in new window)

[caption id="attachment_449" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The view from The Jumpoff"]

[/caption] To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below: Appalachian Trail to The Jumpoff(Opens in new window) 6.9 mile out-and-back along the Appalachian Trail - Newfound Gap to The Jumpoff - October 4, 2008 Looking back at last year's adventures, I finally decided which of my 20+ 2008 walks was my 2nd favorite of the year...the 6.9 mile out-and-back walk from Newfound Gap to the spectacular Jumpoff. Views, views, views, and more views, and only a 6.9 mile roundtrip to get there and back. No need to spend a lot of time talking about this walk, because many of you have likely already visited the special spot. Suffice it to say I was blessed with a picture perfect crisp, cool, early Fall day for my walk, allowing for tremendous views from the narrow ridge that extends North from The Boulevard Trail and parallels Mount LeConte. The trail is not an official Smokies trail and won't count towards your Smokies 900, but trust me when I say whether you're a Club seeker or not, this is one unofficial trail you must visit! I'll definitely return this year if possible. This walk also included a slight detour to Icewater Springs backcountry shelter. [caption id="attachment_447" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Icewater Springs backcountry shelter"] [/caption] Mount LeConte on one side, The Sawteeth and Charlies Bunion on the other, and miles of views into Tennessee...The Jumpoff should be on every Smoky Mountain visitor's top ten list. [caption id="attachment_450" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The Sawteeth and Charlies Bunion from The Jumpoff"] [/caption] Low elevation was around 5000' near Newfound Gap and the high elevation was as I topped Mount Kephart at around 6200'. For pics of this walk, click the link below: Appalachian Trail to The Jumpoff(Opens in new window)

[caption id="attachment_435" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Straight Fork"]

[/caption] To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below: Hyatt Ridge Trail to Campsite #44(Opens in new window) 9.6 mile inverted lollipop walk up Hyatt Ridge Trail to Campsite #44, then down Beech Gap II Trail (includes a 1.3 mile road walk along Straight Fork Road to complete the loop section) - May 23, 2009 Ah, it’s here, Memorial Day weekend, the unofficial start of start of Summer! First, God Bless our troops and all those that paid the ultimate sacrifice so I could enjoy this insignificant hobby of mine walking around our most beautiful National Park and writing about it! God Bless the families they left behind to deal with the incredible loss. You are remembered on this special weekend, and I am deeply indebted. My youngest son had a field trip (huh, who scheduled that?!) on the Friday before Memorial Day weekend, so the family and I would not get our usual Friday night start for the drive up to base camp in Cherokee. We decided we’d get an early start Saturday, so we were out the door before sunrise and arrived in Cherokee by 9 AM. This probably worked out better anyway, because I’m sure traffic on the ridiculous interchange at I-26 and I-40 in Asheville was a nightmare on Friday night. We saved the aggravation and still got to the mountains in time to have a full day of camping ahead of us. After unloading the car and having some breakfast I was on my way up to Straight Fork Road for a late morning start on a walk in the southern Smokies. You may remember my rained-out attempt to walk Hyatt Ridge Trail two weeks ago when I decided to pack it in and instead get some photography practice in the rain. Today I would have no such trouble as despite overcast skies there was no rain to bother this walk. The weather was actually pretty ideal because overcast and cool is decent walking weather as long as views aren’t obscured by clouds. Driving upstream again along Straight Fork Road the stream definitely had a different character than it did two weeks ago. It was down to more normal levels and didn’t have the layer of fog and mist hovering over it as it previously had due to the heavy rains. Because of my late arrival I had to resist the urge to stop and get pictures at the many pullouts beside stunning Straight Fork and focus on getting to the Hyatt Ridge trailhead about 3.4 miles up the road. Along the way I noticed something else you don’t get to see in the rain, the hundreds of Swallowtail butterflies along and often on top of the dirt road. I reached the trailhead at 11:45 AM and parked in the muddy pullout beside the trail… Time for another big climb Only a few minutes into the walk up Hyatt Ridge Trail and I was already questioning why I didn’t take up fishing instead of walking. Climbing again…Hyatt Ridge Trail starts out along beside Hyatt Creek and follows the creek upstream for the first mile or so. Along the way the trail is rocky and worn, evidence of the extensive use by horse riders out of nearby Round Bottom horse camp. In several areas the mud was deep and slick, adding to the fun. Recent rain meant that seeps that have been dry the past couple of drought-stricken years are now back flowing across the trail. Despite the conditions I did enjoy the sounds and occasional sights of Hyatt Creek cascading down the mountainside just a short distance to the left of the trail. Soon the creek comes closer to the trail, and this point it is almost comical to see about 1/3 of the volume of the creek cascading directly down the trail for several yards before plunging off to the trail to the left. The only way up the trail is through the ‘creek’, so I’m thankful for waterproof boots with good mud traction. I pause here to catch my breath, enjoy the sound of the creek, and take in the sights of the water-loving wildflowers surrounding the cascades. It is also noticeably louder in the mountains my last several walks due to the return of the Smoky’s migrating bird species. After a huge fallen tree I notice a hummingbird buzzing around the flowers enjoying lunch. [caption id="attachment_430" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Hyatt Creek"] [/caption] Shortly the trail crosses Hyatt Creek and ascends up Hyatt Ridge past a clearing to the nice flat unnamed gap where Enloe Creek Trail intersects. From here the Enloe Creek Trail proceeds over to connect up with Hughes Ridge Trail and eventually down into the Smokemont Campground. I’ll save that walk for another day. I pause here for a quick bite to eat…it is now 1:15 PM. While resting I think about the 1930’s architects of these trails and how often these intersections are at nice peaceful gaps in the mountains. Often they are great places to rest and recharge. After the rest I continue to the right on Hyatt Ridge Trail, and am fooled into thinking I’d be doing ridge walking at this point. Not yet, because the trail here begins to get very steep. It is also much drier due to it facing the South. Shortly I notice a lot of noisy chipmunks and the first fraser fir tree, indicating I’m getting up there in elevation to where these high-elevation trees like to grow. On the right appears a partially obscured view of the neighboring parallel ridge, which is probably quite a sight in mid-Fall when some of the foliage that blocks the view is gone the ridge is in full color. I try to get some pictures, but too much of the view is obscured to make my pictures do any justice to the view. After this section you swing around to the west and then back northeast and notice a definite change to a more north-facing forest. This area begins to look like a big-tree graveyard, with many large fallen trees all over the ground. I don’t know what they are, I assume old dead frasers or perhaps chestnuts. Many chestnuts sprouts are all around, and it looks like if the tree that has been virtually wiped out by the chestnut blight is to make a comeback, maybe it will start here. After the walk through the graveyard is a nice flat section. It is hard to describe how welcome these few tenths of walking are after the tough climb up the ridge. Feet, legs, and lungs join in a chorus of ahhhs. Not long after that I get to the intersection with Beech Gap II Trail. The lollipop handle to/from McGee Springs Campsite After the obligatory picture of the trail sign at the intersection of Hyatt Ridge and Beech Gap II Trails, which had lost a bolt and was being held together by rope, I followed the turn of Hyatt Ridge north towards campsite #44, also known as McGee Springs campsite. This 0.9 mile section which terminates at the campsite would be the ‘lollipop handle’ of today’s walk. The first few tenths of this section are a steep uphill climb to round the crest of Hyatt Bald (5153’ elevation), the highest point on today’s walk. There isn’t much evidence of the former bald remaining except maybe for the abundance of grass on the trail. After the Bald a beautiful view of the Balsam Mountains appears on the right side of the trail, again partially obscured by foliage. Here the trail feels again like ridgetop walking, narrowing up with the ridge dropping off on either side of the trail and views on both sides. Soon I round a bend and come to area where the grass has nearly overtaken the trail and the forest changes to mainly beech trees, with the forest floor covered with may-apple. The may-apple look like mini umbrellas all sprouting from the ground. Just a short walk later I see the bear cables and know I’ve arrived at Campsite #44. [caption id="attachment_432" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The fields of may-apple"] [/caption] The campsite is empty except for the noisy red squirrels yelling at me from the trees. Campsite #44 is in a mini-cove surrounded on all sides by rising ridges of beech and large red spruce trees, a peaceful spot that feels very isolated. Those camping here tonight will have to deal with a lot of mud, because the ground is pretty soft and very muddy in spots. I rest by the fire pit and then explore around the camp. Just past the camping area is a well worn path that takes you to the spot where McGee Spring bubbles directly out of the mountainside. Past the spring you can see the overgrown path continuing along the ridge which formerly ran all the way to the Appalachian Trail at Mount Hardison and Tricorner Gap. I’m not sure why the Park Service closed that part of the trail, but I bet it was a very nice walk up to the AT. It’s around 3:30 PM when I leave the peaceful spot and head back to the intersection with Beech Gap II Trail, passing a group of campers that are excited to learn that the campsite is empty and they will have it to themselves. (or so they thought, because I pass another group heading that way later) [caption id="attachment_433" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Campsite #44, A.K.A. McGee Springs Campsite"] [/caption] Beech Gap II Trail The ‘right’ side of the loop down Beech Gap II Trail was a pleasant experience, bursting with wildflowers near the top and with much better footing than the uphill walk on Hyatt Ridge Trail. A carpet of leaves still covering the trail helped keep the feet happy, and the only real issue to deal with was a few deep muddy spots at seeps and drainage areas. Umbrella Leaf plants were blooming along the damp spots that crossed the trail in several places. I pass a group of backpackers resting from the uphill trek to their destination at Campsite #47 on Enloe Creek Trail. That had already hiked 13 miles so far today from Laurel Gap shelter. Laurel Gap is nowhere near 13 miles away, but these folks took a crazy route down Pretty Hollow Gap Trail and up Palmer Creek Trail to get here. Sure enough my suspicions are confirmed when they admit that they are 500+ miles into their Smokies 900, and will be happy ‘when it’s over’ and they reach Club status. Seems only a 900-mile Club seeker would take such a brutal path from A to B for the purposes of covering the map. Off we go in separate directions and I enjoy the rest of my downhill cruise, thinking about where I’ll be if I will ever get to that 500+ mile point. Soon Straight Fork appears down below on the left of the trail and I can see the very nice bridge signifying the end of the real trail. All that remains is an easy 1.3 mile road walk down Straight Fork Road to complete the loop. I pass Round Bottom horse camp on the right, which was half full today. I move aside to let a mule team and wagon pass me on the road and soon reach my car at the Hyatt Ridge trailhead to complete another gorgeous day of walking in the mountains. [caption id="attachment_434" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The bridge over Straight Fork between the Beech Gap trails"] [/caption] Low elevation on today’s 9.6 mile walk was around 2950’ at the Hyatt Ridge trailhead and the high elevation was around 5100’ near Hyatt Bald. A nice climb, with the added bonus of not having to don the rain poncho once all day! For pics of this walk, click the link below: Hyatt Ridge Trail to Campsite #44(Opens in new window)

[caption id="attachment_409" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Getting ready to walk in the Cosby area"]

[/caption] To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below: Appalachian Trail via Snake Den Ridge Trail(Opens in new window) 13.2 mile loop walk up Snake Den Ridge Trail, across the AT, and down Low Gap II Trail - May 16, 2009 The weather report was once again ominous on Saturday, May 16, 2009, but on this day I had a “damn the torpedos” attitude about the inevitable strong storms that forecasters were predicting for this area today. I was long overdue for a strenuous walk and had lately been feeling that I needed to get more out of this expensive ‘gym membership’ I’ve been using since last May. I’ve been showing up to the ‘gym’ regularly, but for many assorted reasons wasn’t getting that brutal cardio workout that leaves you totally spent. I was determined to get that killer workout in today come rain, snow, sleet, or hail. I was out the door from Cherokee base camp before sunrise, definitely unusual for me. I had nearly 58 miles of driving to do before I could take that first step on today’s walk, so no time to sit on the deck and listen to the birds this morning. Destination was Cosby Campground, in the quiet northeast corner of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. My plan was a long loop hike up Snake Den Ridge Trail, across the Appalachian Trail, and back to the campground on Low Gap II Trail. Driving through the Park on Newfound Gap Road, I was surprised to see the parking lot at the Alum Cave trailhead nearly full at 7 AM. More hikers saying “damn the torpedos” I guess. Hey, it’s the weekend…time to go. About an hour later I was driving into the peaceful Cosby area of the Smokies under bright sunshine. At the campground they were setting up for the yearly “Cosby in the Park” festival, with music, food, and crafts. There would be no trace of the festival when I returned exhausted from my walk this evening. After talking to a Ranger and admiring the peaceful Cosby picnic and campground areas, off I went through the “B loop” of the campground to the Snake Den Ridge trailhead. Still sunny and gorgeous… Up the Den of Snakes I saw no Inadu (Cherokee for snake) on this trail, but the 5.3 miles up Snake Den Ridge Trail would definitely test how much of last year’s cardiovascular gains I had lost over the winter. The trail starts out innocently enough, with a rising but leisurely walk up an old Jeep road past the site of the Cosby Cemetary. Here the “Poet Laureate of the Smokies” , Ella V. Costner, is buried. Ella, a former WWII Army nurse and P.O.W., was born near here and after the war wrote books of poetry about the Smokies. After a traffic circle 0.7 miles up the trail becomes more typical rocky Smokies trail, and begins to ascend Inadu Mountain through gorgeous old-growth forest of poplar, silverbell, and massive dying or dead hemlocks. [caption id="attachment_410" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Ella V. Costner\'s gravesite"] [/caption] Soon the trail switches off of Inadu Mountain and heads for the trail namesake and parallel ridge of Snake Den Mountain. Between the two ridges is a picturesque crossing of Inadu Creek, with small waterfalls on both the upstream and downstream sides. After the crossing, the trail begins to scale Snake Den Mountain, and I definitely noticed the character change of the trail as I entered the lower reaches of the spruce-fir forest. Looking back, the high AT ridge and Mt. Cammerer come into view, and I notice the storm clouds beginning to roll in. No question, I will get wet today. About two-thirds up the trail, a Ruffled Grouse saunters across the trail directly in front of me. I’m too slow on the draw with the camera to get a shot of him. Continuing on, across switchback after switchback, and with each one I say ‘this has got to be it’. Nope. Out of gas, I stop to fuel up and get passed by two gentlemen that seem to just be out for a pleasant little stroll. I wonder how long it will be before I can tackle these climbs without feeling like I’m one step from calling the helicopter. I would meet up with these guys later at the Maddron Bald Trail intersection, but after that they would leave in the dust. Resting at the intersection I wonder why the heck I’m going to keep going uphill when there’s a perfectly good downhill trail right there in front of me. Against my better judgment I continue up the last 0.7 miles of the Snake Den Ridge Trail to finally reach the Appalachian Trail intersection, welcoming the cool resting place on the stone outcrop of Inadu Knob. Back on the Appalachian Trail [caption id="attachment_411" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Looking towards Mt Cammerer from the AT"] [/caption] This resting spot would be the highest elevation of today’s walk, somewhere around 5700’. All downhill from here, right? Yeah, except that long darn killer 1.2 mile uphill section before Cosby Knob shelter. After a rest I head steadily downhill, ‘northbound’ along the AT. Technically I’m going more east than north, but they call this the northbound direction. The ridge is lined on both sides by high walls of mountain laurel , limiting what would be stellar views on both sides of the narrow ridge. Every now and then a clearing allows for a view to the south of the beautiful Balsam Mountains. I pause to take a picture of rabbit just a foot off the trail. She doesn’t move despite me walking by just a foot from her, I guess rabbits have to be tough up in these parts. Later I pass a peculiar spot that I would swear looks like pieces of an airplane, and later I would talk to an AT hiker that confirmed that it was pieces of an F-4 that met a tragic fate in a 1984 crash. Sadly the pilot and navigator were killed here when they crashed at high speed into the side of Smokies main crest. Soon I would reach the intersection with Camel Gap Trail. Is that rain I feel? Yep, time to break out the $1 poncho again. I can sum up the next part of the trail in one word, argh. Ok, argh isn’t a word, but it began to rain pretty hard, this part of the trail was that 1.2 miles of uphill I mentioned earlier, and this section was also in very poor shape from the recent heavy rains. What a muddy quagmire. I thoroughly enjoyed the first 2.3 miles of the AT on this walk, but this section I can definitely say I did not enjoy. I’ll have to come back some time when it hasn’t rained as much. I was relieved to reach the pleasant Cosby Knob Shelter, which was full to capacity with AT hikers. I fueled up again and enjoyed the conversation with all the nice folks, then it was off on the last part of my walk…thankfully all downhill. [caption id="attachment_413" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The Cosby Knob AT backcountry shelter"] [/caption] Low Gap II Trail, a real kneebuster After a short 0.7 downhill on the rocky AT, I reached Low Gap and the intersection of three trails, Low Gap I & II, and the AT. This was a nice spot, a flat open area with an abundance of wildflowers. By now the sun was shining bright again, so off comes the $1 poncho. Down the Low Gap II Trail I would go. It’s amazing that as relieved as you are to be going downhill after a tough climb like today, after awhile it’s just a different kind of agony. The agony of de’knees. You almost wish you were going uphill...almost. This trail drops back into the beautiful old-growth forest above Cosby Campground, but with my knees screaming my only thoughts were on the end. Finally I reached the confusing jumble of intersections that is the Low Gap Trail ‘system’, and wound up somehow cruising through the very nice Cosby Nature Trail to complete the trail. The route was very picturesque, but enough already! Ok, there’s the car… Today’s walk was a dead tie for my longest walk to date at 13.2 miles, all of which were new miles for Old Dan. Low elevation was at the Cosby Campground trailhead at 2400’ and the high elevation today was at the intersection of the Snake Den Ridge Trail and the Appalachian Trail at around 5700’. For those scoring at home, that’s 3300’ of pure elevation rise..a good day’s work. Now the 1.5 hour drive through the Gatlinburg traffic, a hot shower, and a hot meal. The Cosby area was a real treat, and those looking for a quiet, peaceful Smoky Mountain experience should consider this gem of an area. [caption id="attachment_412" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="One of many stellar views along the AT"] [/caption] For pics of this walk, click the link below: Appalachian Trail via Snake Den Ridge Trail(Opens in new window)

[caption id="attachment_387" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Happy Mother\'s Day Mom!!"] [/caption] To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below: Straight Fork and Mingo Falls(Opens in new window) Photography practice along Straight Fork and a short walk up the stairs to stellar Mingo Falls - May 9, 2009 First, Happy Mother's Day to all of you great women out there ..thanks!! Love you Mom! Mother's Day Eve Saturday was maintenance day around camp, so after spending several hours taking care of some long overdue chores I knew I'd have to scrub all plans and walk somewhere closeby if I was going to get a workout in on this day. Setting out in the early afternoon I decided to take a right out of the campground for the first time since I've started walking and head deep into the Big Cove community of the Cherokee Reservation. My planned destination was Straight Fork Road and eventually the Hyatt Ridge Trail. Driving past the fish hatchery just in front of the entrance to the National Park, you would swear that the road is one way. At this point it isn't though, but it's barely wide enough for a car and skateboard. This spot is probably very familiar to the many folks that travel the very popular dirt one-way section called Heintooga Ridge Road from up in the high-country near the Balsam Mountain Campground down down down the mountainside and into Cherokee. The road changes names and becomes Straight Fork Road near Cherokee and also allows two way access starting from the Beech Gap trailhead to the Park boundary. [caption id="attachment_394" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="A cascade of Straight Fork"] [/caption] Up until now I had been like the majority of travelers on this road and had never seen it from this, the 'upstream' and uphill direction. Well, if you were paying attention to last week's post you know I had a mini-tirade about walking the opposite direction on trails and seeing a totally different trail. The same can definitely be said about car travel on Straight Fork Road. Coming down the mountainside from Heintooga Ridge, you whiz by this section of road descending with Straight Fork but most likely not even noticing its beauty and abundance of mini-falls and cascades. Driving upstream though, it is right in your face and you can't help but notice. A totally new experience. Compounding the sense of awe was the fact that this part of the Smokies had just had deluge after deluge and the streams and falls were running higher than I've seen them in years. It is a complete rainforest feel driving upstream in the mist with the creek raging and the fog and mist hovering several feet above the water. This reminded me a lot of the rainy summers camping beside streams in the Nantahala area years ago. Ok, it's already a long story and there is no walking in it yet, so to make it short and sweet......I reached the Hyatt Ridge trailhead, my planned walk for today, just in time for the sky to open up yet again. Downpour. ..and it rained...and it rained...and it rained. Nope, not into this. It was already pretty late, and the rain was coming down hard. Time to wimp out on today's walk and do some photography practice. For a long time I've been following Al Smith's Smoky's hiking site and trying to read up on some of his photography pointers, so it was time to practice a few. Let's just say I need a lot more practice. Mingo Falls [caption id="attachment_395" align="aligncenter" width="225" caption="Mingo Falls"] [/caption] After puttering around in the rain on Straight Fork Road and practicing my photography on a few cascades and falls, I drove back downstream towards the campground. The rain was just coming to an end so I decided to turn left about a 0.5 mile from the campground and check out Mingo Falls. Mingo Falls access 'trail' starts in a small parking area just off of Big Cove Road and ascends a couple of hundred concrete steps up the side of a hill beside Mingo Creek. The recent Big Cove fire damage was very evident all the way up the steps, ending just beside the wooden handrail on the left. After the steps there is a very short 'real' trail and around the corner you come to the bridge over the creek. Look left and WOW, there it is! I had a feeling the falls would be in top form with all the recent rain, and they defintely were. The other good news about the downpour? It had cleared everybody out, and I had the falls to myself. Back down the steps and a short drive to the campground, just in time for the camp's duck race for the benefit of the Children's Cancer Society. Big-time fun and for a good cause. Another great day in the Smokies! Today is the 1-year anniversary of my first 'documented' walk on an official Smoky's Trail - the Kephart Prong Trail. Some useless stats are below: Miles: Total official unique trail mileage: 112.4 (yes, the 0.4 is important!) Total miles walked so far: 229.2 Total walks: 30 Longest walk so far: 13.2 miles Total unique official trail mileage so far this year: 33.4 Total unique official trail mileage so far this month: 0 Toughest walk: Tie between Newton Bald (and back) and Kephart Prong-to-Charlies Bunion (and back) Wildlife: Very, very few...I'm wondering if they are out there Bears: 1 (a cub on Kanati Fork Trail) Almost bears: 4 (Rangers were out for a Mom and 3 cubs on Laurel Falls Trail, but we just missed them) Roadside Turkey: Maybe 50 Trailside Turkey: 2 Woodchucks: Maybe 50 Beavers: 0 Deer: 4-6 Roadside Elk: Maybe 30 Trailside Elk: 0 Hogs: Close, but just missed them. Ruffled Grouse: 2 Peregrine Falcon: 1 (in-flight) Hawks: 1 Salamander: Straight Fork and Mingo Falls(Opens in new window)

To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below: Smokemont Loop Trail(Opens in new window) 6.1 mile loop hike on the Bradley Fork Trail and the Smokemont Loop Trail - May 2, 2009 After being out west for the past couple of weeks I was happy to have the chance to get back to the Smokies on the first weekend in May. I enjoyed the quick visit to the Redwood forests of California and the lush evergreens of northwestern Washington state, but for me the Smokies are more like home. So once again I bolted South Carolina on Friday evening and made my way with the usual anticipation to my favorite version of the west, western North Carolina. As usual, I took my favorite route used during the warmer months by turning on to the Blue Ridge Parkway just past Maggie Valley at Soco Gap. As I made my way higher up the mountain to Wolf Laurel Gap (elev. 5100), it was apparent that the trees didn't get the memo that it is Spring. Above 4000 feet it is definitely still late Winter and none of the trees have bloomed out yet. From the low-country up to 4000 feet the trees have that pleasant bright green color of new growth, making the drive even more enjoyable. [caption id="attachment_344" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Fire scars beside the Parkway"]

[/caption] But soon after passing Big Witch Gap (elev. 4300), I start to smell and see wildfire damage just beside the Parkway. I had heard about a wildfire somewhere in the area, but I had no idea that the fire was this widespread. Ending just feet off the North side of the Parkway, the damage went on for miles and finally ended just past Rattlesnake Mountain. As I drove down Big Cove Road towards the campground the damage re-appeared. Turns out the wildfire had started nearby and come just feet from several houses, churches, and campgrounds, including the KOA where our RV is docked. It turns out many of the campground staff had to fight the fire after it jumped the road onto the campground island and near the entrance. The Manager said he was minutes from ordering an evacuation. The report I heard said the fire had scorched 1200+ acres, and taken a few campers and houses. Driving by the damage it is a miracle that more homes were not lost, so kudos to the Cherokee and other local firefighters! (See the report on the fire here) Now on to the walk Saturday morning I was awoken by the 40% of chance of "scattered showers". It would appear they decided to scatter in my general direction. On the Weather Channel was an ominous looking large mass of rain, so I had a pretty good idea that my planned 14 mile walk starting on Bradley Fork was in jeopardy. But I decided I'd go anyway, and if the weather somehow miraculously turned for the better I would complete the loop I planned up Bradley Fork to Hughes Ridge, and back down Chasteen Creek Trail. If the weather stunk, I would turn left at the Smokemont Loop Trail and return with a 6.1 repeat mileage loop walk. If you're paying attention to the name of this post, you know what happened. I don't mind a little rain. If you walk the Smokies you WILL get rained on, and it is actually a pretty nice experience most of the time in small amounts. But today wasn't looking like a small amount, so I set out around 9:30 up the Bradley Fork Trail from the Smokemont Campground knowing that I was probably going to be coming back early. Note to self...it is time to invest in a real rain jacket. When I started this walking thing almost one year ago, I didn't want to go too crazy buying up a bunch of equipment just in case it wasn't for me. So I have the basics, a first-aid kit, a nice daypack, water, a compass, stuff like that. But my total expenditure on rain gear is $2, for two flimsy rain "ponchos in a pouch". It is time to step it up. As it turns out, had I had a decent rain jacket, I probably could've stayed dry long enough to wait out the rain and make it today's goal. But as I walked beside the Bradley Fork and past the intersection with Chasteen Creek Trail, the rain started to get heavier and the flimsy poncho wasn't really doing the job. I was able to pause long enough to take several pictures of wildflowers along the trail, and as I mentioned the early Spring color of the forest was a delight. So about 2.2 miles up the Bradley Fork Trail I reached the fateful spot where I had to make a tough decision. I paused for a long time here. One of these days I need to decide what type of Smoky's walker I am...900 miler, thru-hiker, view photographer, wildflower photographer, wildlife photographer, exerciser, serenity seeker?? Give me another 25 years or so and I'll have that one figured out. For now I'm considering myself an almost all-of-the-above. Recently I've been trying to make sure I visit unique trail sections, as if I was trying to slowly work my way towards the 900 mile club. Very slowly, maybe by the year 3000 I'd have it. Anyway, from this point..turn left and I would follow the 3.9 mile Smokemont Loop Trail, which I had already "marked off" back in July of last year, pre-website. Stay straight, and I would begin to mark new segments off my "map" once I got to Cabin Flats and turned up Hughes Ridge. [caption id="attachment_359" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Decision point"] [/caption] I turned left, crossing a long footbridge over Bradley Fork, which was swollen from the recent rain. I was aggrevated that it was bothering me to be 'repeating' a trail. Really aggrevated. So I was repeating a trail, so what? I'm in the beautiful Smokies, it is a newborn Spring, and I'm actually going the opposite direction that I went last time. Fortunately the aggrevation didn't last, and going the opposite direction, in different weather, in a different time of year made the trail seem pretty new to me. Plus it was pretty darn steep up the side of the mountain. so I had no time for petty stuff like that. It's a pretty good pull up the mountain and I was definitely accomplishing one goal of getting my heart pumping again on a tough climb. In the next 1.7 miles I would gain about 1200 feet in elevation. As I bent around the mountain I heard an unusual cry, which was probably either a fox or coyote. Unfortunately I was not able to see the animal, only hear it. Soon I began to reach the rhododendren tunnels near the top, and swung around to the west side of the trail for the descent. At this point I could start to hear noise from Newfound Gap Road just a short distance down the hillside. You can't see the road, but you definitely do begin to hear it. [caption id="attachment_368" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Crossing Bradley Fork"] [/caption] The remainder of the trail was a reasonably steep descent. The rain was coming down in buckets and the I saw absolutely nothing on the return trip. I could've walked 2 feet from Bigfoot himself and I wouldn't have noticed. I had to concentrate on looking down at the trail to avoid the new creeks that were forming and all the tree roots. The middle section of this trail could definitely use some more waterbreaks, because it becomes very eroded and each eroded channel was filled to the top with runoff. This is what you notice when descending in a downpour, another reason I like to wait for 'better' days to do serious walking. I reached the fork in the trail where it comes off the mountainside and joins the flatland floodplain of the Oconaluftee River. Turning right, I walked a short distance up a Park maintained side trail and discovered the Bradley Cemetary. The trail may not have been new for me, but the cemetary was. This cemetary was on a hillside unlike the flat hilltop of the Sugarlands Cemetary. The majority of the head/foot stones in this cemetary were in very poor condition and nothing could be read on them. The few that were legible contained the usual young sons and daughters that left this place way before their time. I stood here for a while in the rain and just listened to the silence. After awhile it was back down the flat road beside the Oconaluftee River and across the stone bridge to the Smokemont Campground and a return walk to the car...and some dry clothes! [caption id="attachment_346" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Ravens Fork on Sunday\'s drive home"] [/caption] While walking this trail on this very different time of year I decided that there is no such thing as 're-run' on a Smokies trail. Like the infinitely unique human souls God hands out on a daily basis, each year, each season, each day in this place seems to have its own unique 'soul', and I look forward to repeating this trail again and again. I bet if I came back tomorrow I would see another thousand things I didn't notice today. Low elevation for this walk was 2250' at the Smokemont Campground and high elevation was 3650' at about the midway point of the Smokemont Loop Trail. For pics of this walk, click the link below: Smokemont Loop Trail(Opens in new window)