Old Dan Walking

Thank you for paying the ultimate sacrifice for our freedom, so that our flag will always fly from coast (top picture, Brasstown Bald, GA) to coast (bottom picture, Nehalem Bay, OR).

God Bless America

To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below:

Springhouse Branch Loop(Opens in new window)

16.9 mile loop walk in the ‘road to nowhere’ area of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. The walk started and ended at the Noland Creek trailhead on Lake View Drive (RTN) and included Noland Creek Trail, Springhouse Branch Trail, Forney Creek Trail, Whiteoak Branch Trail, Lakeshore Trail, and a road walk from the tunnel at the end of Lake View Drive. – May 21, 2011

With only two walks in the Smoky Mountains in the past seven months, I feel like they should revoke my residency status. I’ve been so absent the groundhogs, turkey, and elk don’t recognize my car anymore. But alas, to my relief I was finally heading back for a late May walk in the ‘road to nowhere’ area, officially known as Lake View Drive, just a short drive west from Bryson City, NC. I let the wife know that if Jesus came looking for me this morning, predicted Rapture Day, to tell him I’d be in the Smokies, about the closest approximation of Heaven that can be had on planet Earth. J I was a bit apprehensive about the loop I was going to tackle today due to its 6000 feet of overall elevation gain, 16.9 miles, and well above average temperature predictions.

Noland Creek Trail and a rare encounter

I get a good early start (7AM) for my long day. The trailhead for my first segment, Noland Creek Trail, is officially a mile south of Lake View Drive at Fontana Lake. Instead of starting there, however, I would start my loop from the large parking area beside the road.  The trail drops down off the south side of the Lake View Drive and then crosses back under the road on a wide gravel bed. I immediately cross Noland Creek on a wide bridge and am wowed by the mountain laurel flower show. Laurel was the definite star of today’s walk, with thousands and thousands of buds scattered on every trail and every elevation. Other stars included Squawroot, Speckled Wood Lily, Hepatica, Galax, Partridgeberry, and many more. Wood Betony was also very abundant but it looked like it was about a week or so away from blooming.

On the lower section of Noland Creek Trail I’m frustrated at the fact that the trail is not close enough to the creek for photo ops. I chose this (counterclockwise) direction for my loop because I wanted to walk beside the creek in the early morning, but never really walk in too close proximity to it on the wide road-like trail. Fortunately there are several wide bridges where I can take in the beauty of Noland Creek. At about 1.3 miles, I reach the spur trail that goes off the left to campsite #65 on the banks of Bearpen Branch. After this point the trail curves around to a wide flat area that obviously had a homesite in the pre-Park days. I enjoy the easy, gradual climb and the picture taking ops at each bridge crossing.

Near the third or fourth bridge I stop in my tracks to see what looks like a large mammal, about the size of coyote, sauntering on the trail’s left ridge. I quickly realize it is not a coyote, but rather a cat…a big cat. The white tufts on its ears tell me it’s a bobcat, but I had no idea they got this big. He hasn’t spotted me yet, and I’m not very close to the creek so there isn’t much sound to drown out my fumbling with the camera. I attempt to get a movie, but am trying so hard not to move I can’t get it focused. My pictures and movie are lousy, but the experience of watching this big guy dig at the trails edge for his breakfast is awesome. I watch him for about two minutes, trying not to move a muscle. He finishes digging and begins moving northward up the trail; I try to follow quietly, but he turns back and sees me, then bolts off to the right edge of the trail and out of sight. What a rare and incredible experience to see this elusive nocturnal cat for such a long stretch! Click the link to my Youtube video of the bobcat having a snack! (opens in a new window - 720p HD available)

...or you can just click on the embedded video.

 

As is typically the case when you spot a rare Smokies mammal on the trail, every rock and tree from that point forward looks like another bobcat or a bear. I continue up the easy path enjoying the creek and flower show and much faster than expected I cross over Mill Creek on a large bridge and am at the intersection with Springhouse Branch Trail, 4.1 miles from my starting point. This area, the Solola Valley, was heavily settled in pre-Park days, with a post office and school nearby. To the left of the trail is large and fancy horse camp #64, with picnic tables and horse ties.  

Springhouse Branch Trail and another large Smokies resident

Springhouse Branch Trail begins climbing beyond the camp and crosses Mill Creek at a couple of times on pleasant rock hops. Mountain Laurel explodes in bloom all over the place. As I climb I the side of Jerry Bald Ridge I notice many flat areas with rock piles, sites of former houses and mills from the once thriving community. The trail turns sharply to the left and climbs steeply away from Mill Creek, then switches sharply left again into an area of large trees and abundant wildflowers. At another sharp switchback, this time to the right, I reach the ridgetop and the forest changes to laurel and rhododendron. From this point the climb is much easier and very enjoyable, through an area of dead chestnut stumps and logs with some new sprouts bordering the trail.

2.8 miles from campsite #64 I reach the intersection with Forney Ridge Trail at Board Camp Gap. The sign says Andrews Bald is just a tantalizing couple of miles to the right, but as tempting as it is that segment will have to wait for another day. Mentally I’m expecting the climbing to be over here since I reached another ridge, but from here I have about another mile of up and down. This section of the trail has nice views to the southeast, although most are fairly obstructed this time of year. It will be nice to walk this segment in the Fall on a loop down from Clingmans Dome on Forney Creek Trail and back up Forney Ridge. It’s never to early to plan your next hike. J

At a large rhododendron tunnel the trail switches sharply back to begin its descent down into Bee Gum Branch valley. Here a tree has begun to swallow the trail sign it has mounted on it. The descent is pleasant, not too steep, with occasional ridge views through the trees. At a few places the beautiful flame azalea were blooming. Around on wide bend I hear the rustling beside the trail and stop in my tracks again…this time it is a black bear! This appears to be a young adult, stout and strong looking with a good coat. He begins to retreat uphill by jumping up on a large tree that has fallen perpendicular to the trail, giving me a stellar view of him as he climbs up the fallen trunk. Fantastic! Again, I try to get a picture but can’t get my camera in a good position before he crests the ridge and is gone. My 26x zoom is nice, but one downside is it takes longer than the average camera to be ready to shoot. I miss another golden opportunity. I feel pretty blessed today for such fine animal encounters, finishing up the long descent down Rough-hew Ridge and reaching the intersection with Forney Creek at campsite #71.

Forney Creek Trail, Whiteoak Branch Trail, and Lakeshore Trail

Campsite #71 is a large flat area beside Forney Creek that is the site of an former CCC camp. The large chimney still remains. Here I spend several enjoyable minutes talking with one of the campers, Dr. Tom Warren of Hickory, NC. He is here trout fishing with friends and has caught several nice rainbow trout. We talk for a while and I admire his catch before heading southbound on Forney Creek Trail for the 5 mile trek back to Lake View Drive. It is blazing hot now and the gnats and flies are getting to be a nuisance. I’m happy I brought a lot of water today because I will use every bit of it. There are few spots to view boulder-filled Forney Creek and stop to take a couple of pictures.

In 1.3 miles and seemingly no time I reach the intersection with Whiteoak Branch Trail. From here I have two choices to connect to Lakeshore Trail, either continuing 1.5 miles along Forney Creek Trail to its end campsite #74 on Fontana Lake, or 1.8 miles on Whiteoak Branch Trail. I choose Whiteoak Branch Trail. I immediately cross Whiteoak Branch and take the opportunity to dunk my hat to cool off. It is blazing now and I’m careful to continue drinking even though I don’t want to. Whiteoak Branch Trail climbs about 300’ through a dry pine forest, crossing over Grey Wolf Creek and other trickling tributaries. The trail bed is dry and sandy, which the abundant grasshoppers seem to enjoy. I’m overheating now and am relieved to reach the intersection with Lakeshore Trail so I can drop my pack for a quick break.I

i’ve done the remaining two miles along Lakeshore Trail two other times, but not this time of year. Although it’s not my favorite Smokies area it was nice with Mountain Laurel blooming and the trees fully leaved.  I don’t appreciate the two climbs in the heat though, and am relieved to reach the tunnel for a chance to get some cool shade. I complete my loop with a road walk along Lake View Drive, finishing the 16.9 miles in just over 9 hours. This is much faster than I expected to finish and I make it home before the sun is down, completing another glorious May walk in the Great Smoky Mountains.

Low elevation on my 16.9 mile loop walk was around 1800’ near at the trailhead on Lake View Drive and high elevation was around 4100’ on Springhouse Branch Trail. The walk included about 6000’ in overall climbing.  

For pics of this walk, click the link below:

Springhouse Branch Loop(Opens in new window)

To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below:

Green Knob Fire Tower Trail(Opens in new window) 

5.7 mile out-and-back walk to the Green Knob fire tower on the Blue Ridge Parkway in the Pisgah National Forest. The walk started and ended at the Green Knob trailhead at the Black Mountain Campground near Forest Service Road 2074, a short distance off of the Blue Ridge Parkway (milepost 348) – May 1, 2011

I wanted to get a walk in on the first weekend of May, but since it was Sunday I needed to stay reasonably close to home. I’ve completed almost all of the trails in the eastern half of the Smoky Mountains, closest to home, so I decided on a walk near my second favorite, the Blue Ridge Parkway. Today I would take the long way up to the Green Knob fire tower from the Black Mountain Campground, just off of the Blue Ridge Parkway near Mount Mitchell State Park. There is a short trail from an overlook on the Parkway that takes you to the tower, but I chose the more difficult 2000’ ascent from the campground to get an appropriate workout and feel like I earned it. Boy…this little trail really does make you earn it. (on the trailhead sign it is rated “Most Difficult”…I must say I agree)

In my own little world on the hiking trail, I was unaware of how important Sunday May 1^st would be for America and our Allies, with the news of Usama bin Laden’s death making big headlines soon after I got home. Celebrations went off around the country like V-J day. Unfortunately, there was no country manning up and laying down their arms..but that’s a story for another day. Remember I said I wouldn’t get controversial because you get enough of that? Let me just say God Bless our country and our brave men and women that have toiled and sacrificed for far too long against an ‘unconventional’ enemy!

Uphill to the tower

If you’re coming from Asheville along the Blue Ridge Parkway, the dirt road that is designated Forest Service Road #2074 is about ½ mile north of milepost #348. You’ll turn left and descend through an area of campsites in Pisgah National Forest land. When the road comes to a triangle intersection, stay to left and you’ll hit the Black Mountain Campground on the banks of the South Toe River. There is a large parking area near an information kiosk, just before the entrance to the campground. The trailhead for the Green Knob Trail (#182) is yellow blazed and begins just behind the kiosk.

The trail starts out with an ascent through an open hemlock forest. As usual, most of the trees have already been killed off by the Hemlock Wooley Adelgid (HWA). Ferns burst from the ground to signal the arrival of Spring . I will see no one on the trail this late morning nor the remainder of the day, probably because the fire tower was closed. A short distance up the trail I spot the first of many Crested Dwarf Iris I’d see today. They sure stand out in early Spring. Painted Trillium were the other abundant wildflowers on this walk.

Soon the River Loop, a white-blazed trail that returns to the campground after a 3 mile loop, splits off and descends to the right. I continue straight and begin to climb into the tunnels of Mountain Laurel and Rhododendron.

The upper section and the tower

I continue to climb southward up Lost Cove Ridge, struggling against the congestion and sinus junk I’ve been fighting this week. The ridge thins in a laurel patch, and here I can begin to see the adjacent ridge and mountain off to the north and west, which I believe were Whiteside Ridge and Higgins Bald. In a few spots the climb gets intense, steep and then flattening again in a dense forest with blooming Fraser Magnolia. I stop to catch my breath and notice my reflection in the shiny mica on the trail bed. Further up a couple of large trees stand like sentinels, with the trail passing between them. I see the first little spruce tree growing beside the trail, unknowingly marking the beginning of the spruce-fir zone.

After another steep section there is finally the first, and very welcome, trail switchback. Nearby there are nice specimens of Squawroot, Star Chickweed, and more trillium.

I really get the feeling the tower must be close because I’ve been climbing hard for a long time, but unfortunately I’m way wrong. The trail narrows, then switches sharply back and begins climbing on rocks. These rocks would be somewhat tricky on the way back, causing me to crawl down to avoid slipping. The Black Mountains are now in plain view, with Clingmans Peak, Mount Mitchell, and Mount Craig visible in the increasing cloudiness. For the remainder of the climb, these peaks would be visible off to the west as well as nice views down the South Toe River valley. I hear the sounds of motorcycles now, and with each crest I get that same “I’ve got to be close” feeling, but the tower is not there. Big spruce trees are now all around and the trail is closed in with Hobblebush, blueberry, and laurel. There is an unmistakable aroma of the spruce-fir forest.  I’m tired. Finally, when all hope seemed lost..the tower. J

The live-in Green Knob fire tower, built in 1931, is closed for its third refurbishment. It sits at 5080’ elevation on the Eastern Continental Divide with a commanding view of the Black Mountains, as well as many other peaks in all directions. It is clearly visible from the Parkway. With the refurb in full swing, wood debris and other junk is all around the mountain ridge.It is mid-afternoon now and the views are only so-so, with the clouds completely obscuring the eastern views and the western views beginning to cloud over too. It didn’t really matter, I was proud to have tackled this rough trail to get to the tower the hard way. Now next time, I’ll surely take the easy route from the Parkway Overlook. I return the way I came up and make my way home, happy with another good workout in the southern Appalachians. The bin Laden news is about to break.

Low elevation on my 5.7 mile out-and-back walk was around 3000’ at the trailhead at the Balsam Mountain Campground and high elevation was 5080’ at the Green Knob fire tower. The walk included about 2310’ in overall climbing.  

For pics of this walk, click the link below:

Green Knob Fire Tower Trail(Opens in new window)

Sunday I got a tough six mile walk in...so check back in a couple of days for the story and pics.