Old Dan Walking

[caption id="attachment_532" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The Clingmans Dome tower"]

[/caption] To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below: Newfound Gap to Clingmans Dome(Opens in new window) 8.4 mile section walk along the Appalachian Trail from Newfound Gap to Clingmans Dome – June 27, 2009 When planning a walk on the Smoky Mountain trail system it can be a good idea to have a backup hike in mind to go along with your day’s primary objective. The Smokies can be an unpredictable place, and often unexpected events can force the hiker to go to a Plan B. Such was the case for me on this late June Saturday morning, but it wasn’t the morning rainstorm that woke me up early that would be the cause for a quick change of plans. Plan A today was a big loop out the Mingus Mill area near the Park’s southern end. The family was driving up today so I was trying to remain close to base camp again so I could get back to camp at a reasonable hour. But when I reached the Mingus Mill area, site of a still-operating grist mill built in 1886, I was surprised to learn that Mingus Creek Trail was closed. Huh..closed?! Yep, the sign at the trail entrance said “Area Closed, Firing Range in Use”. As I had learned when I walked this trail in the snow and cold last December there was a firing range just a few tenths up the trail that is used by Park Rangers. Well, today was apparently one of those few days when they decided to use it. I was half-tempted to ignore the sign because I was certain someone had just forgotten to flip the sign back over after a weekday practice session. I couldn’t imagine that they would be using the firing range on a crowded summer weekend. But I thought better of risking a run-in with armed Rangers fresh off of target practice and decided to go to Plan B. [caption id="attachment_528" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Plan A was closed so time to switch to Plan B"] [/caption] Plan B would be to continue north up Newfound Gap Road to popular Newfound Gap and the Appalachian Trail. Just a short while after leaving the mill, I slowed briefly to watch a family of wild turkey feeding in the grassy flats beside the road. Although the site of wild turkey had become pretty common lately since I’ve been getting earlier starts on my walks, this sighting including a rare look at a family with young chicks all pecking away at the grass while sticking close to Mom. Later I was slowed again, this time by storm-related windfall that blocked the road. Today was looking like it was going to be one of those days, would it take a Plan C? Fortunately for me Park Service personnel were already on the scene though, and I waited in line with the sound of chainsaws breaking the morning silence as the team quickly dispatched the roadblock. Soon I was on my way again and quickly reached the already bustling Newfound Gap midway through the Park on the Tennessee-North Carolina state line. Leaving the northbound crowds on the Appalachian Trail Over the past decades upwards of nine million people per year are said to visit Great Smoky Mountains National Park. All nine million stop at Newfound Gap. This is the spot where the Appalachian Trail and the state line crosses US-441, the main route north and south through the Smokies. Northbound AT thru-hikers probably feel quite a sense of relief when they reach this spot, because many hitch down the mountains to Gatlinburg from here for a ‘zero-day’ or two and their first real meal and shower in weeks. Summer crowds overstuff this parking area on a typical weekend and today looked like it was definitely going to be no different. Scads of AT dayhikers were already at the Gap, adjusting their daypacks and checking their GPS to prepare for a walk on the most heavily traveled section of the AT in the Park. [caption id="attachment_529" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Views like this today in the high country"] [/caption] Despite the huge crowds of folks that take to the AT from Newfound Gap I would soon be in peaceful solitude on my AT walk. The overwhelming majority of summer walkers head north from this spot to popular destinations such as Charlies Bunion, Icewater Springs shelter, the Jumpoff, or even Mount LeConte via the Boulevard Trail. Today I would head south, walking the route that leaves the Gap and runs roughly parallel to Clingmans Dome Road 7.9 miles to the highest point in the Smokies, Clingmans Dome. Along the way I would pass only a few people until I reached another overstuffed area, the Dome itself. I was completed immersed in the clouds as I set out southbound, starting directly across the road from the Gap. Before I even take one step past the trail sign, I have to stop and take a picture of the clouds and fog hanging onto the mountainsides among the high country evergreens. It is amazing how nice the view is up in these mountains when there is no view at all. Starting out along the trail there is a big rock wall directly to my left used to support Clingmans Dome Road just above. The sound of traffic and particularly the loud thunder of motorcycles occasionally distract me from enjoying the peace of the high country spruce-fir forest. The foggy day has kept traffic on the Dome Road lighter than usual though, so it is not too bad. Soon the trail will skirt the north side of the ridge and despite the close proximity to the road much of the day, the traffic noise is only noticeable in a few spots. In short order I reach the stile and fence that encloses an area of sensitive beech forest. The stile allows access for human traffic but keeps the damaging wild boar out of the area. Here, 1.5 miles into my walk, I pass the first hiker of the day heading northbound towards a stay at Pecks Corner shelter. Shortly afterward I reach an opening in the trail and grassy Indian Gap, the site of the intersection with the Road Prong Trail. I was here on a cold late-December day last year when I climbed up from the Chimney Tops parking area. [caption id="attachment_530" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The forest peeled up by a fallen tree"] [/caption] A walk through Windfall Alley After a slight unintentional off-trail diversion (i.e. mistake) re-entering the other side of the Gap, I finally find my way and the familiar white rectangular blazes tell me I’m in the right spot this time. This next 2.5 mile segment is the only new mileage I will rack up on my walk today. This part of the trail has some of the most elaborate water diversion channeling and elevated walking platforms of anywhere I’ve walked. Kudos to the trail workers that created such nice conditions here, and I’m sure thru-hikers appreciate the occasions when they can keep their boots out of the mud, snow, and ice of these high elevations. Climbing up the side of Mount Collins, this part of the trail is also notable for downed trees. In fact, so much so it should be termed ‘Windfall Alley’. Every few feet is an immense toppled giant Fraser fir tree, each with its roots having ripped up the entire surrounding forest as it fell to expose the underlying dirt that has not see the light of day for eons. Doomed ferns, tree saplings, and wildflowers continue to grow sideways on top of slanted roots, but will someday lose the battle when the dead roots eventually fail and crumble taking with them the soil the young foliage depended on. These big trees probably died around the time of my first Smokies visit as a young teenager, back when I had no idea what a ‘balsam wooley adelgid’ insect was and like most people thought that it was acid rain that was turning all the trees brown. Thirty years later the intense storms of these elevations have now made quick work of toppling many of the standing dead trunks. Soon I reach the intersection with the Fork Ridge Trail and take a quick break. I am not feeling very well today, and take the opportunity to decide if I will continue on up to Clingmans Dome or return back to Newfound Gap. I am having trouble with my energy level, and if I do continue on I will have to take a chance on finding a ride from Clingmans Dome back to Newfound Gap or face an 8 mile return trip. I decide to return the way I came, then after about 20 steps northbound I change my mind and decide to take a chance on not getting a ride. I do a quick 180 and continue southbound on the trail soon passing the nice intersection with the Sugarland Mountain Trail. I look forward to walking this nice ridgetop trail in the Fall. After cresting Mount Collins I enjoy a short downhill break before climbing again over Mount Love. I note the difference in the trailside wildflowers compared to my last visit 10 months ago. Last visit the Turks Cap Lilies and Swallowtail butterflies were everywhere. This time only the abundant flowers of the Thornless Blackberry were in bloom beside the trail. Soon they will ripen and the bears will have a feast. Several clearings are along the sides of the trail here that would normally afford stunning vistas, but nothing to see today. The clouds were stubborn and in no mood to leave. Soon after cresting Mount Love I tackled the last uphill section and came out of the forest beside the tower on top of Clingmans Dome. Despite the clouds and lack of view, the nine million visitors were not deterred. It doesn’t really matter if it’s cloudy up here and there is no real view, the top of the Smokies is a treat to behold. After a walk up the tower I make my way down the 0.5 mile paved Clingmans Dome Trail alongside of the masses, stopping a few times to take pictures of the southern mountains that now appear below the clouds. I wonder if the view ever cleared out on top of the mountain? After a quick walk through the parking area I begin to hitch for a ride and to my great relief am saved by friendly first-time Smokies visitors Colleen and Allen. Thanks Colleen and Allen for the lift back to Newfound Gap, I very much appreciate it!! Eight was definitely enough for today, and I made it back to camp before the family even arrived. [caption id="attachment_534" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Views from the Clingmans Dome parking area"] [/caption] Low elevation on today’s 8.4 mile section walk was around 4980’ just south of Newfound Gap and the high elevation was the top of Old Smoky, at 6643’ atop Clingmans Dome. The walk from Newfound Gap to Clingmans Dome is 7.9 miles, but I added the 0.5 mile downhill from the Dome because 8 miles sounds more impressive than 7.9. 8) For pics of this walk, click the link below: Newfound Gap to Clingmans Dome(Opens in new window)

To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below: Hemphill Bald Loop out of Polls Gap(Opens in new window) 13.6 mile loop walk to Hemphill Bald, starting at Polls Gap and covering Rough Fork Trail, Caldwell Fork Trail, and Hemphill Bald Trail – June 20, 2009 NOTE: New feature added 6/24/09 -- Now you can click on the small pictures below and bring up the full-sized image. NOTE Part II: Another new feature added a couple of weeks ago -- Picasaweb has finally added full screen mode! When you go to my gallery (link at the beginning and end of each journal) you can see my pictures or slideshows in full-screen mode by hitting the "Full Screen" button in the upper left and then pressing F11 on your keyboard. Enjoy -- Old Dan Even though summer wasn’t officially scheduled to start until tomorrow somebody turned on the blast furnace a day early in my central South Carolina hometown, and temps north of 100 degrees were in the forecast. So you know what that means…time to climb to the high country! Today I would tackle a 13.6 mile loop that starts at Polls Gap in one of my favorite areas of the Park, the Heintooga Ridge Road area of the Balsam Mountains. Since tomorrow was Father’s Day it would be one of those walk and then drive home days, so I chose to walk in the southeast corner of the Park for closest proximity to home. Before I go on, Happy Father Day to my great Dad back in Florida!! Camping trips with Dad are still a highlight of my memory banks and a big reason I love this place so much. [caption id="attachment_502" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="No bear today, just this reminder that they\'re out there"]

[/caption] I had a relatively long walk scheduled plus a 3.5 hour drive, so it was out the door of base camp at 7 AM again. I startled several flocks of wild turkey on the drive on the Blue Ridge Parkway to the Balsam Mountain area. They love the grassy areas beside the Parkway and are a common sight if you get going early. Along the Parkway the evidence of the Stony Ridge fire from late-April and early May was barely visible as the forest had already recovered quite nicely. The flame azalea displays were unbelievable and the views were too incredible to pass up, so I stopped at the Mile High Overlook on Heintooga Ridge Road for breakfast and several shots of the stunning view. You could tell it was going to be a hot day today, but up here a mile above sea level the wind was howling and it was almost chilly. I reached Polls Gap, a former cattle grazing bald area in pre-park days, and started on the Rough Fork Trail around 8 AM. Downhill to start the day on Rough Fork Trail I was a bit apprehensive about today’s walk because for the first time in 36 documented Smokies walks I would start the day going downhill and not hit my tough uphill until I’d already walked more than 5 miles. Typically I like to warm up with a tough climb in the morning and cool down with a downhill coast when I’m spent in the afternoon. Today would be more like…downhill, then a big uphill, then up and down ridge walking to finish up. See the elevation profile in my picture deck for more details. So I started out on the flat mountainside of Balsam Mountain immersed in a gorgeous spruce-fir forest to the loud sound of waking nature, and quickly forgot any apprehension I may have had. [caption id="attachment_500" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Fire pink on Rough Fork Trail"] [/caption] The upper section of Rough Fork Trail was a pleasant walk with the exception of the horse-induced mud. I had covered the lower section of this trail back in December of last year, but this part of the trail was totally different. The lower section had large hemlocks, many creek crossings, and the Woody House and farm. This section was a thick high-country spruce-fir forest with fraser, beech, and red spruce. Soon views of Big Spruce Ridge begin to peak through the trees. I pass a massive windfall that had opened the forest canopy and created a huge 12x12x12 hole in the ground right beside the trail. As the roots ripped out the ground they had taken half of the width of the trail with them. About 2.5 miles in the trail begins to drop more steeply and I’m thankful to be walking downhill. For the first time views appear to the left of the trail of Woody Ridge and the Rough Fork watershed. I spot my very first specimen of the wildflower Fire Pink, which is strikingly red against the sea of green. At the 3.5 mile mark I reach the intersection of Caldwell Fork Trail, marking my completion of the entire distance of the Rough Fork Trail. Back on Caldwell Fork Trail This intersection of Rough Fork Trail and Caldwell Fork Trail looks completely different than my last visit. On that cold day I rested here after a long uphill on Caldwell Fork Trail and had lunch with dynamite views of Big Fork Ridge through the naked trees. No such cold temps or views today. In fact, it was really beginning to warm up. Downhill I went on the upper section of the trail, with the effects of the recent Spring rains and horse traffic making it difficult to navigate the slick, deep mud bogs. At 1.2 miles down the trail I reached the short spur that leads to the flat area where several very large poplar trees grow. I stop here for a quick snack. Shortly after this area is the only bridged stream crossing of the day, and I’m reminded of all the nice bridged crossings on my two previous walks on this trail. No more of those for me today, because I was about to climb to the Cataloochee Divide and away from Caldwell Fork. A few minutes later I reach the Caldwell Fork Trail/Hemphill Bald Trail intersection and the end of my exclusively downhill walking for today. [caption id="attachment_501" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="One of the big poplar trees"] [/caption] Back uphill to the high country via Hemphill Bald Trail More than 5 miles of walking and now it’s finally time to start climbing. Hemphill Bald Trail starts out at the former homestead of Jim Sutton and begins an immediate climb up the side of Double Gap Ridge. The lower part of the trail was a miserable experience for me on this day. It was very warm, the trail is in sorry shape, and the gnats were relentless. I hadn’t brought my sunglasses, so the annoying gnats kept getting in my eyes as I slowly climbed the hill. Also, my advice is to keep your mouth closed too to avoid the excess protein from swallowing those darn things. That was hard to do thanks to the grade and trail condition. Continuing on I start to hear a sound that I haven’t noticed since I first started walking in May of last year, the sound of my right knee cartilage complaining with every step. Pop, crack, pop…each step sounds like I’m stepping on bubble wrap. Times like this I’m reminded of how blessed I am to still have the health to do these long walks. I’m far from the picture of health, but for sure there are many many that cannot do this due to health issues. I’m thankful. [caption id="attachment_503" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Hemphill Bald"] [/caption] At one point the footing was so bad that I had to look down to avoid falling and almost ran smack into the branches of a big hemlock that completely blocked the trail. The trails are so expertly maintained in the Smokies that it is a rare occurrence to come across an obstacle course such as this one. But this roadblock would take quite a bit of wrangling to get around. Mercifully the gnats begin to disappear as I climb higher up the ridge. Later I pass a six-foot wide Northern Red Oak that I simply can’t walk past without a picture. The pictures never do these big guys justice. After a peaceful crossing of Double Gap Branch I reach Double Gap and the National Park boundary. Double Gap is site of the intersection between Hemphill Bald Trail, Cataloochee Divide Trail, and the Park boundary. I take my first look at the face of striking Hemphill Bald, which lies on private land over the fence from the Park boundary. Cattle and sheep still graze here which keeps this bald in a condition much like it probably was in pre-park days. Up the hill the cows huddle under a tree for protection from the blazing sun. The trail now switches sharply west and travels beside the fence that separates Park from private land. This portion of the trail is overgrown with thick grasses and is a good spot to twist an ankle, as I would soon learn. Fortunately, no damage, so I continued the big climb to the top of Hemphill Bald. At the top of the Bald caretakers have graciously placed an opening in the fence to allow Park hikers to enjoy the beauty of Hemphill Bald. At elevation 5540 feet, the cool Bald offers stunning 180 degrees views of the surrounding mountains. Directly in front lies the Cataloochee ski area and in the distance are Mount Pisgah, Cold Mountain, Mount Lynn Lowry, and Waterrock Knob to name a few. I sat on the large stone picnic table and just enjoyed it. Didn’t want to leave… [caption id="attachment_505" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The stone table and memorial on Hemphill Bald"] [/caption] Back on the trail the remainder of the walk was high country ridge walking with several ups and downs to cross Pine Tree Gap, Little Bald Knob, Buck Knob, and Garretts Gap on the way back to Polls Gap. The trail stays above 5000 feet of elevation the entire 5.5 miles back to the Gap, and with the 20 mph wind blowing and no real lungbusting climbs, this was pleasant walking. For most of the way the old CCC-era fence accompanies me on my left. At one spot a huge tree had fallen directly across the fence and flattened it. What a sound that must have made. Later on striking views of the Caldwell Fork Valley open up to the right. I wasn’t hungry on Hemphill Bald, and even though the walking wasn’t too difficult soon I would start to feel drained from the ups and downs and have to stop and fuel up. Shortly afterward the backward sign that indicates I’ve reached the trailhead appears, always a welcome sight. It doesn’t matter if I walk 1 mile or 20, for some reason when I reach trails end I feel like there is no way I could’ve walked another step. [caption id="attachment_508" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Late afternoon view from the Heintooga Ridge Overlook"] [/caption] Not yet ready to return to the blast furnace I cruise a short distance down the road to the Heintooga Ridge overlook and gawk one more time at the endless wave of mountains spread out for miles…and look forward to returning again soon. Low elevation on today’s 13.6 mile loop was around 3100’ at the Caldwell Fork Trail/Hemphill Bald Trail intersection and the high elevation was 5550’ on top of Little Bald Knob. Hemphill Bald was a close second at 5540’ elevation. The start and end of the loop at Polls Gap is around 5100’ in elevation. For pics of this walk, click the link below: Hemphill Bald Loop out of Polls Gap(Opens in new window)

[caption id="attachment_481" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Mount Sterling fire tower"]

[/caption] To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below: Round Bottom to Mount Sterling(Opens in new window) Personal record 20.4 mile out-and-back walk to Mount Sterling, starting at the Round Bottom area up Beech Gap I Trail and following Balsam Mountain Trail, Mount Sterling Ridge Trail, and Mount Sterling Trail – June 6, 2009 If you would have told me last May that I would complete a 20.4 mile day-walk just over a year later, I would’ve laughed and said you must have had ‘tee many martoonies’. But here I was less than 13 months removed from that first 4-mile Kephart Prong walk getting ready to attempt a marathon to Mount Sterling. I knew one thing was certain, there was no way I going to drive a long distance from base camp to trailhead on this, my sixth consecutive Saturday walking the Smokies. That meant my start had to be either on Balsam Mountain Road or Straight Fork Road, the closest proximity trailheads from Cherokee base camp. I felt it would be a clear day and I knew I wanted to see some of the famous Smoky’s views, so I chose Mount Sterling as my destination. But there was no quick and easy way to get to Mount Sterling from this side of the Park, so I chose the long walk out of Round Bottom starting at Beech Gap I Trail. You may remember I walked Beech Gap II Trail a couple of weeks ago, so this walk would take on the section of trail that travels northeast and big-time uphill away from Straight Fork. Like a broken record, I drove the few miles upstream along Straight Fork to the trailhead…again. I was nervous about the long walk ahead of me as I started out around 7:45 on the cool morning. I conquered a personal record 17 miles just last week, was I getting too cocky now trying 3 more miles just one week later? Climbing up Beech Gap I Trail The first part of Beech Gap I Trail already had me thinking I must be nuts…rocky, rutted, and extremely steep. Pausing at the first crossing of the day, I think to myself this may be a bad idea. Up the trail I would go with the morning chorus of sound from the ambling streams and local residents to keep me going. Thoughts turned to my late brother Tom, who would have been forty-eight today. My first experiences in these mountains years ago were always side-by-side with him. I sure miss ya bro. [caption id="attachment_480" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="A boulder along Beech Gap I Trail"] [/caption] Later on I met up with a guy going the opposite direction. He was on his way back to Stringer Mountain in Georgia at the beginning of the Appalachian Trail, a very long way from here. He was just out for a little 3 week jaunt, up the AT and back to Georgia via the Benton-Mackaye Trail. Later up the trail you come to one of those extremely peaceful spots were a tributary of Table Rock Branch crosses the trail. This crossing was exceptional, with the creek splitting above the trail and crossing at three different forks. Due to the width of the damp areas of this crossing the wildflowers spread to cover the entire switchback. Long walk or not, I just had to pause here for a moment and take it in. Ah…morning in the Smokies. After that crossing the trees started to get bigger. One of the big boys had fallen across the trail, taking out another big oak on the opposite side of the trail. The fallen giants created a big opening in the forest canopy, allowing the sun to shine through. It looks like the trail crews had a quite a job to clear this big mess off of the path. Further up, the first signs of a changing higher elevation forest, with beech and fraser fir beginning to make an appearance. After a long and seemingly endless climb, relief comes 2.5 miles up as I see the trail signs and the wide, flat, beech tree-covered Beech Gap. It’s 9:45 AM. Those 2.5 miles took me 2 hours, and I have 18 miles to go. My notes only had one word about Beech Gap..WOW! I’d love to sit here at Beech Gap for a while, it is so very peaceful. But, like a broken record, no time for that today… [caption id="attachment_484" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Peaceful Beech Gap"] [/caption] Balsam Mountain Trail No rest for the weary, it’s time to climb again. Almost immediately after departing Beech Gap it’s uphill again, this time over the hump called Balsam High Top. Along the way are wooden walking planks laid down by trail crews next to muddy bog areas. They are definitely welcome because parts of this horse-traveled path would be like walking through the swamps of Dagobah with Yoda on your back. Soon I move around the summit of Balsam High Top, which is covered in a beautiful spruce-fir forest. I have that AT feeling as I walk through this section of trail. Off to my right are peek-a-boo views of Beech Ridge. Then it’s downhill for a while (note that for later) before reaching another stellar Smokies gap, this time Laurel Gap. [caption id="attachment_485" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Views from Balsam High Top"] [/caption] Laurel Gap is the site of one of only three Smokies backcountry shelters that is not on the AT. (the others are Kephart shelter and LeConte shelter) There is a horse tie rail here and the gap is like most I’ve seen, very peacefully and scenic. This would be a great spot to camp. The shelter, however, leaves much to be desired. Laurel Gap shelter still has the ‘old’ style chainlink across the front and inside is the very dark, dank, crypt-like sleeping quarters. I don’t know if they plan to upgrade this shelter to the new open style, but I’m sure those that stay here would welcome it. Past the shelter is a short steep walk up to the intersection with Mount Sterling Ridge Trail. Here Balsam Mountain Trail continues to the left another 5 miles up to Tricorner Knob. I look forward to that walk another day. FLAT!! Mount Sterling Ridge Trail Finally, I’ve found what has got to be the flattest trail in all the Smokies, the Mount Sterling Ridge Trail! We’re talking flat. The first 3 miles of this trail past the Balsam Mountain intersection are flatter than the road I drove on this morning, gaining and losing no more a few feet of elevation here and there. Yep, this trail is flat, but unfortunately there is no flat way to get here. The forest is still boreal spruce-fir, with occasional partial views to the south of Butt Mountain. (hey, I don’t make this stuff up). I take a mental note that this is another one of those trails I must visit when the leaves are off the trees to achieve maximum views. I make good time and get some much needed rest across the flat trail until I reach a few downhill spots nearing Pretty Hollow Gap. The wide, flat section near the gap is extremely scenic, and I am surprised there are no deer grazing in these lush high mountain flats. A quick downhill and I reach Pretty Hollow Gap. A group of friendly horse-riders are at the gap, and they offer me basically everything in their packs (multiple times). One lady was on her honeymoon, and we joke about her bringing such a crowd with her on her honeymoon. After a quick snack at the gap and a time check, I half-consider abandoning my planned miles and returning via Pretty Hollow Gap and Palmer Creek Trails, but decide to press on to Mount Sterling. Two minutes later I’m questioning myself again as I battle the tough, steep uphill to the intersection with Mount Sterling Trail. To the tower via Mount Sterling Trail [caption id="attachment_482" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="At the Mount Sterling tower"] [/caption] Just 0.4 steep miles up the Mount Sterling Trail I reach the summit of Mount Sterling, the tower, and backcountry campsite #38. Campsite #38 is a busy place today with tents set up all over for the teams of scouts that will be staying over. The tower is also bustling, and it seems like I’ve reached Gatlinburg or something. Seems everybody in east Tennessee had the same idea I did today. Not an issue though, and I thoroughly enjoyed meeting some fellow walkers , including a Park elk volunteer named Jim that would be working the night shift at the ‘elk theatre’ in Cataloochee later today. I also talk with a nice couple (Leslie and ??) that provide good conversation and helpful tips. Unfortunately the views I was expecting from the tower did not materialize, as clouds hung around the 5000 foot mark leaving not much to see. I have lunch and think about the 10.2 miles I still have to go today. It’s about 3 PM. I was wondering if I’d be walking in the dark this evening. The return trip – and another bear sighting! As I start back on the long walk to Round Bottom, I’m constantly thinking about the uphill sections I will face, particularly the hump over Balsam High Top. I consider each one on the outbound leg and keep a note as to where they will be. Energy is low, but my new friend at Mount Sterling, a former guide, reminded me that conservation of energy is key to making these long walks. I had also recently read about the same thing in Smoky Scout’s husband Jim’s blog about conserving on the long 80 mile biking days on the BRP. So the mantra for the return trip….conserve, conserve , conserve. It would be temping for me to blast through the flat section of Mount Sterling Ridge Trail to make time as I raced the setting sun. But I made sure I saved some fuel, and it worked. I had agonized all day over the 0.25 mile return trip uphill just after Laurel Gap, but I fueled up at the shelter and made it SLOWLY over the grade with energy to spare. As dusk was setting in I was back on Beech Gap I Trail for the last downhill stretch. About 1.2 miles from the end, I heard a large rustling and spotted a bear high-tailing it away as fast as it could go. Sighting #3, and the second in as many weeks! That’s three now, one early morning, one mid-morning, and one at dusk. I guess the next one will be the tiebreaker. After 19 sweaty miles I’m sure it was the smell of me that spooked this poor guy. I was energized by the sighting but it wouldn’t last, because the last section of Beech Gap I Trail is a miserable experience, particularly after this long of a day. I didn’t appreciate the steep, rocky, rutted, last few tenths, but at least it was downhill. The sun was sinking low at this point, but I knew now that I would make it back before dark. Gotta love the long days. Finally, finally..the car, and thankfully a SHORT drive back to home base. Two weeks, two bears, and two broken records. [caption id="attachment_483" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Twenty miles"] [/caption] Low elevation on today’s 20.4 mile walk was around 3150’ at the Beech Gap I trailhead in Round Bottom and the high elevation was 5842’ on top of Mount Sterling. I didn’t get the killer views at Mount Sterling I was hoping for, but that didn’t matter much because I had completed a walk I never thought I would be able to do. Next week 21 miles? 8) For pics of this walk, click the link below: Round Bottom to Mount Sterling(Opens in new window)