Old Dan Walking

[caption id="attachment_1628" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Mouse Creek Falls"]

[/caption] To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below: Big Creek Trail(Opens in new window) 11.6 mile out-and-back walk on Big Creek Trail in the Big Creek area of the Smokies. The walk started and ended at the Big Creek trailhead – June 5, 2010 Saying “I can’t” or “I shouldn’t” is a tough thing for an old former macho man to do. For some time I’d been planning to walk several long loops that would begin at the Big Creek Trail, a 5.8 mile gradually ascending former railroad grade tucked into the northeast edge of the Great Smoky Mountains. My desire was to walk one of those long loops, a tough 16.6 miler summiting Mount Sterling, when I headed east from Gatlinburg on the first Saturday morning of June. I wouldn’t be far into my walk when I had the realization that today I can’t, and I shouldn’t. [caption id="attachment_1626" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Tumbling Big Creek"] [/caption] Big Creek Trail The Big Creek Trail follows a old road/railway from the site of a former CCC camp and the Crestmont Lumber Company mill at the eastern edge of the Smokies into Walnut Bottom, also site of a former logging camp run by Champion Fibre Company. Boulder-strewn Big Creek, which the trail follows for its entire length, drains a vast watershed between two dominant Smoky Mountain ridges. To the north of the creek is Mount Cammerer Ridge, site of the fine lookout that is so popular for Smokies hikers and also the Appalachian Trail. To the south is Mount Sterling Ridge, site of a lookout tower and another extremely popular Smokies destination. [caption id="attachment_1625" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Wild Strawberry"] [/caption] The trail starts with a gradual ascent above the camping area, which would not be visible from the trail today through the trees on the left. The steep ridge on the right side of the trail has areas of exposed rock, evidence of the blasting work to create a grade favorable for a steam engine. Several of the rock walls have pleasant seep areas, with water dripping down across the rocks from the ridges above and creating cool moist bogs filled with wildflowers. In one of those moist areas I spot the bright red fruit of the wild strawberry growing low to ground. Soon the creek comes into view about 80 feet below the trail on the left. Further up I spot some nice views of ridgetops to the south, which would be the only ridge views of today’s walk. Later the trail begins to draw parallel to Big Creek and there are many areas to view the impressive waterway. Large whitish-colored boulders are the theme for this creek, and there are many deep green pools and spills and cascades. I pass Midnight Hole, one of the deep green pools that is a popular swimming area. When I return this afternoon the pool would be filled with swimmers, some diving from a boulder into the pool below. [caption id="attachment_1627" align="aligncenter" width="224" caption="Mouse Creek Falls"] [/caption] Mouse Creek Falls About 2 miles up the trail I stop to admire a large mushroom growing on the right and almost miss Mouse Creek Falls, cascading down into the creek from a ridge on the left. Glad I didn’t miss it, because this 20 foot fall tucked into a small cove is a pleasant diversion. I spend a few minutes here where Mouse Creek empties into Big Creek enjoying the cool breezes before continuing uphill. I stop for a lengthy chat with a friendly lady named Cynthia from Jefferson City, who I come to find out has a daughter that lives in my town in South Carolina. She had started out this morning with her trail-addicted husband Frank, who is close to completing his Smokies 900. She turned around but he had to continue on to catch a trail further up. [caption id="attachment_1629" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The bridge over Big Creek"] [/caption] At about 2.3 miles the trail crosses over Big Creek on a sturdy bridge. This is another nice spot to enjoy views of the tumbling creek upstream and the large boulders and pools on the downstream side. From the bridge I watch a couple of trout swimming around beside a boulder in one of the deep green pools. Downstream are several rock cairns that folks had stacked on top of the large boulders. With the creek now on my right I pass what has to be the biggest boulder of the day, about the size of an RV, sitting directly in the middle of the creek. [caption id="attachment_1630" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Rock cairns"] [/caption] The remainder of the climb is much the same, with nice views of the creek here and there on the right, a steep ridge on the left, occasional big trees, and a wide trail now slightly more rocky thanks to abundant horse traffic. I’m passed by the first horse riders of the day, and there would be a steady stream of them for the rest of the day. The abundant horse manure on the trail creates an obstacle course for me but attracts hundreds of swallowtail butterflies, as well as a small purple butterfly I can’t yet name. [caption id="attachment_1632" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Lower Walnut Bottom campsite"] [/caption] Walnut Bottom In seemingly no time at all I reach the intersection of Swallow Fork Trail. Swallow Fork Trail goes off to the left and climbs another 2500 feet in elevation to gain Mount Sterling Ridge. It is part of a loop walk I’d planned for some time, but although it is tough for me to do at this point I continue up Big Creek Trail instead of turning left. I can’t, and I shouldn’t take on this big loop in my current condition. Further up is another bridged crossing of Big Creek which takes me across and into Walnut Bottom. Directly beside the bridge is Lower Walnut Bottom campsite, a.k.a. campsite #37, which is closed due to aggressive bear activity. A short distance further up is the intersection with Low Gap I Trail, which climbs north up to Low Gap at the Appalachian Trail. That will have to wait for another day. A few tenths further up is Upper Walnut Bottom campsite, a.k.a campsite #36, which is a horse camp. Just beyond I reach my turnaround point for the day at the intersection with Camel Gap Trail. [caption id="attachment_1631" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Big Creek"] [/caption] Transition time I do a 180 and return the way I came, bummed but realizing this is best for now. Each downhill step and misstep on a loose rock is like a knife in my back, confirming that it would not have been wise for me to attempt to a 4000 foot descent in just 6 miles on Baxter Creek Trail. Until things improve my hiking hobby will have to be modified to include easier walks. I will have to modify my focus to learning more about the trees, birds, flowers, and history of the Smokies rather than the pursuit of new miles and grueling climbs. It will be a difficult transition, but right now I can’t, and I shouldn’t. When I return to the parking lot somewhat dejected by the pain from this easy walk I glance at the Jeep beside me and notice an angel hanging from the rear view mirror with the inscription “Faith Heals All”. I manage a smile. [caption id="attachment_1633" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Tiny shrooms collected on a small stump"] [/caption] Low elevation on today’s 11.6 mile out-and-back walk was around 1700’ at the Big Creek trailhead and high elevation was about 3050’ at the Camel Gap Trail/Big Creek Trail intersection. The walk included about 2800’ in overall climbing. For pics of this walk, click the link below: Big Creek Trail(Opens in new window)