Dan DeSetto
Welcome to Old Dan Walking, a site dedicated mainly to the hiking journals and ramblings of your average lover of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park and beyond.
Search
A shout out to Mississippi
What kind of people would spend their time and energy to carry a dingy old worn-out hat all the way back to Mississippi from a backpacking trip in the Smoky's Twentymile area, contact the owner, take the hat to the post office and then use their own funds to ship it back to its owner in South Carolina? A couple of pretty special people in my book. Smokies people.
A big shout-out and thanks to two special folks, backpackers Shawn and Ethan from Meridian, Mississippi. Thanks to their above-and-beyond efforts my custom olddanwalking.com hat is now back safe and sound from its lonely temporary home at Campsite #92 in the Twentymile area, where I somehow dropped it on my long day trek up to Gregory Bald. The hat and $7.50 will get you a double mocca frappuccino at Starbucks, but it wasn't about the money. Thanks guys!! -Dan
Posted
by Dan DeSetto
Visiting Andrews Bald with the boys
To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below: Clingmans Dome to Andrews Bald(Opens in new window) 3.6 mile out-and-back walk to Andrews Bald in the Great Smoky Mountains. The walk starts at the Clingmans Dome parking area and visits some of the best views in the Park – July 10, 2010 Another summer Saturday meant another trip with my boys to visit a Smoky Mountains Hall-of-Fame destination…Andrews Bald. This stunning heath bald, one of two balds maintained by the National Park Service, has some of the finest views in the entire Park if you catch the right type of day. Considering it was the middle of summer when haze and fog are the norm, we would be pretty lucky with the views we saw on our walk today. I remember visiting Andrews Bald about 5 or 6 years ago, a few years before I would decide to get serious about this walking hobby. That day I sure didn’t plan to walk 3.6 miles, showing up with no water or supplies at the Clingmans Dome parking lot in my jeans shorts and tennis shoes. But I starting walking down Forney Ridge Trail and wound up enjoying myself so much I decided to keep going. A few hours later I emerged from the trail with a new respect for 3.6 miles of walking in the mountains. This was nothing like the flat mileage I walked multiple times a week around my neighborhood. No comparison. [caption id="attachment_1675" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Photographer of the day"]
[/caption] No complaints from the boys today about a walk in the mountains, they were ready to go. We traveled the nicely repaved Clingmans Dome Road and emerged from the cool but overstuffed Dome parking area prepared for a good late afternoon on the trail. Thomas would take over the majority of the photography duties today, and he immediately got busy snapping away at the tremendous views. I got busy trying to convince two couples from Indiana that they needed to walk the 0.5 mile up to the Dome. I can’t imagine coming this far up here and not taking the short trip. [caption id="attachment_1676" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Getting ready to roll"]
[/caption] Forney Ridge Trail It’s hard not to spend the entire day sitting in the Clingmans parking area and enjoying the views southward into Swain County. I love this spot, especially in the late afternoon when the shadows roll over the mountains and the vibrant sunset colors begin to appear. But we had a few hours of walking to do, so we took the left turn just before the paved Clingmans Dome Trail starts uphill to the tower and instead started downhill on Forney Ridge Trail. [caption id="attachment_1677" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Bee balm by Thomas"]
[/caption] The first 0.1 mile graveled section of the trail descends sharply through a field of huge boulders. The wildflower show was impressive, with bee balm and a few Turks Cap Lillies being the primary showpieces. The brilliant red berries of Mountain Ash also lit up the side of the ridge. Blackberry bushes were packed full with unripe berries. At the 0.1 mile the trail intersects with the Clingmans Dome Bypass Trail on the right. Nick tackled that trail a couple of years ago but Thomas hasn’t done it yet, so we’ll come back another day. We turn left and continue our descent down Forney Ridge on the namesake trail. [caption id="attachment_1678" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The boys trekking uphill in the spruce-fir"]
[/caption] The heavily-bouldered first several tenths of the descent are a difficult trek. The trail follows Forney Ridge down through the spruce-fir forest with views of the AT ridge in spots on the right. I believe there has been work on the trail since my last visit, and I don’t think the condition is as bad as it was then. It’s still no cakewalk though, with several tricky rock sections to navigate. None of the sections are thigh-busters requiring deep knee bends though, so it’s not so bad. The boys remind me that they don’t appreciate descending at the beginning of the trail….who does that sound like? 8) [caption id="attachment_1679" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The grassy fields of Andrews Bald"]
[/caption] Hall-of-Fame destination Andrews Bald After 1.1 miles of descending we reach the intersection with Forney Creek Trail, a trail that goes right and down the ridge to eventually end at Fontana Lake 11 miles downhill. The forest here is full of mushrooms and young spruce trees, having a very closed-in feel. It must be quite a dark place at night, with no room for moonlight to filter through the packed trees. We continue on, ascending for the next few tenths before descending again and stepping out into the open of Andrews Bald at 1.8 miles. It is pretty cool to emerge from the dark, dank, closed-in spruce forest and come out onto a wide open grassy bald with views to eternity in front of you. We’re at 5728’ in elevation. [caption id="attachment_1681" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The boys check out the view"]
[/caption] We spend a long time basking in the sun and enjoying the cool breezes rolling across the protected bald and also the incredible views. As mentioned earlier this bald is one of two in the Park that are maintained to stay free of forest encroachment. We’ve missed the Flame Azalea show by a couple of weeks, but you can still see the bright red pistils of the spent flowers all over the shrubs on the bald. It must have been quite a show. Blueberries bushes are also spotted throughout the bald, unfortunately still not ripe. We’re joined by a family with 4 small children, one of them an infant girl riding in her Mom’s caddie on her first ‘hike’. Another future hiker is born. [caption id="attachment_1682" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Sunset photo by Thomas"]
[/caption] Too soon we leave the peaceful Bald and return into the dark spruce-fir forest for the walk back to the parking lot. As the boys have mentioned on several occasions it is the return trip that contains the majority of today’s uphill trekking, a mental hurdle that is tough for them to ignore. They grumble but I’m ok with it, because the uphill feels better on my back. Walking without the usual 20 pounds on my back has also made it an easier day for me. We make it back to the parking lot in time to see some dynamite scenes washing across the mountains, ending another exceptional day in the high Smokies. On the way home the next day we top off a great weekend with another favorite destination of mine, the Pisgah Inn, where we enjoy a great lunch. [caption id="attachment_1674" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Lunch at Pisgah Inn"]
[/caption] Low elevation on our 3.6 mile out-and-back walk was around 5710’ at Andrews Bald and high elevation was around 6260’ at the Forney Ridge trailhead at the Clingmans Dome parking area. For pics of this walk, click the link below: Clingmans Dome to Andrews Bald(Opens in new window)
Posted
by Dan DeSetto
Mount Mitchell and Craggy Pinnacle
To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below: Mount Mitchell and Craggy Pinnacle – Blue Ridge Parkway(Opens in new window) [caption id="attachment_1655" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The boys about to bag an SB6K peak"]
[/caption] Approximately 2 miles of strolling around the Black Mountains with my sons. First stop was Mount Mitchell State Park and then we climbed up Craggy Pinnacle on the Blue Ridge Parkway – July 5, 2010 Happy 234th America! Independence Day weekend was a chance to finally get a break from recent long hours at work and also recover from busy trip across the country. It was the first time in a long time that work would be so busy I would not have time to set foot on a hiking trail or in a touristy area. I intended to just spend the long weekend chilling out at home, but alas the pull of our beautiful eastern mountains was far too strong. Combine that with a long month since my last walk and it was inevitable…and Monday I was on the road with my two sons heading north and back to God’s Country. In terms of hiking condition, however, unfortunately I’m still on injured reserve. So for the near future I will have to stick with short strolls with good footing and moderate climbs. Our plan for today was to head northeast of Asheville on the Blue Ridge Parkway to allow my sons to bag the highest peak east of the Black Hills on a short climb at Mount Mitchell State Park. Then on the return trip we’d stop for another short climb up Craggy Pinnacle, a heath covered summit in the gorgeous Craggy Gardens area of the Parkway near milepost 364. [caption id="attachment_1656" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Mount Mitchell State Park office"]
[/caption] Mount Mitchell State Park After some unusually gorgeous July weather early in the weekend it was back to more normal conditions, and it was shaping up to be a warm day in Asheville as we headed north towards the Black Mountains. We made a quick stop for some essential 75th anniversary gear at the Parkway Visitor Center, a nice facility with some cool new interactive exhibits. This year the Parkway is celebrating its 75th anniversary, much like the Smokies did last year. The roads north of the VC are in the process of being re-paved, but fortunately there was no work going on today. We pulled in to the Mount Mitchell State Park entrance and I was relieved to see that we would be treated to an unusually clear summer day. [caption id="attachment_1658" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The Elisha Mitchell gravesite"]
[/caption] The entrance road passes the Park offices, a restaurant, and camping area on the right before reaching the summit parking area after a couple of miles. There is a nice little snack bar and gift shop at the summit trailhead, which naturally we had to check out. Hey, don’t want to miss anything you know. The parking lot was busting at the seams thanks to the extended holiday weekend. Just to the left of the snack bar is the paved trail to the summit of Mount Mitchell. I had to chuckle at the sign saying the ‘trail’ was 280 yards long. Yep, 280 yards…definitely no hero stuff on this ‘trail’. [caption id="attachment_1659" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Trekking on the Old Mitchell Trail"]
[/caption] Since my last visit to the summit 30 years ago the observation platform at the summit has been restored and Elisha Mitchell’s gravesite has also been given fresh stone. We bag the 6684’ summit of the eastern USA’s highest peak and enjoy the 360 degree view in the unusually clear skies. After all that peak bagging a nice dinner at the rustic, picture-windowed restaurant overlooking the summit was in order, a thoroughly enjoyable experience. After dinner we take a short stroll outside the restaurant on Old Mitchell Trail. The boys decide they’d love to come back and visit this nice trail in the spruce-fir forest at another time. Music to my ears. [caption id="attachment_1660" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Through the tunnels on Craggy Pinnacle Trail"]
[/caption] Craggy Pinnacle Just a short drive south of Mount Mitchell along the Blue Ridge Parkway brings us to the Craggy Gardens area. This popular area famous for its heath-covered rounded ridgetops with gorgeous displays of Catawba Rhododendron has separate parking areas for a Visitor Center, a picnic area, and trails. No rhodo show for us today, but we would stop at the northernmost parking lot overlooking Craggy Dome, a 6080 foot peak, for a short climb on the Craggy Pinnacle Trail. [caption id="attachment_1662" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Views from Craggy Pinnacle"]
[/caption] The short, well-worn 0.7 mile trail up to the top of Craggy Pinnacle climbs away from Craggy Dome and almost entirely through a dense rhododendron tunnel. It is a pleasant experience that the boys really enjoy. There are a few trees along the way, but most are stunted or have mangled trunks from what I presume are rough conditions at these elevations. Nearly-ripe wild blueberry bushes grow abundantly amongst the cover of the rhodo. The rhododendron and laurel are about a foot or two over our heads so the only views along the trail are from one small rock outcrop. No worries though, because after about 250' of elevation gain we reach the top where we are treated to gorgeous 360 degree views from a large rock observation platform at the summit. We linger a while at the 5892' summit and enjoy the cloud-free late-afternoon and the cool breezes. None of us really want to leave but we reluctantly trudge back to the parking area and make the long drive home, satisfied with another beautiful day of walking around in the hills. [caption id="attachment_1654" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Craggy Dome from Craggy Pinnacle"]
[/caption] Low elevation on our roughly 2 miles of walking was around 5640’ at the Craggy Gardens parking area and high elevation was 6684’ atop the east’s highest point, Mount Mitchell. I don’t know how much overall climbing we did, but safe to say it was a lot less than usual. I can get used to these short walks. For pics of this walk, click the link below: Mount Mitchell and Craggy Pinnacle – Blue Ridge Parkway(Opens in new window)
Posted
by Dan DeSetto
