Old Dan Walking

[caption id="attachment_786" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Time to quit and go home?"]

[/caption] To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below: Pretty Hollow Gap Loop(Opens in new window) 16.1 mile loop walk out of the Cataloochee area of the Smokies. The loop started and ended at Pretty Hollow Gap Trail and covered Mount Sterling Ridge Trail, Mount Sterling Trail, Long Bunk Trail, and Little Cataloochee Trail – September 12, 2009 When the alarm blazed in the pitch darkness of this cool mid-September morning, I dragged myself up and began to get ready for the day feeling much like Forrest Gump must have felt after his fifth cross-country run…. I was tired. I wanted to go home. Weekend after weekend of driving here and driving there, walking here and walking there was taking a toll. My stats showed I’d covered almost 200 miles so far this year on mainly marathon Saturday day-hikes. I’d climbed more than 60,000 feet. That’s more than 11 miles of vertical ascension. If I stacked up this year’s walks on top of each other I’d cruise past the jet airliners that cross the country as I climbed well into the stratosphere. I could almost shake hands with Saint Peter. I thought very seriously about pulling a Forrest and just stopping and saying to the world “I’m tired….I wanna go home”. But this obsession to walk is not just about being immersed in the beauty of my beloved Smoky Mountains. For me, it is also very much about health. Even though it may be tough to see from looking at me I can definitely feel the cardiovascular benefits of the 22+ vertical miles of climbing since May of 2008. Of course, anyone else in their right mind would forgo the hefty cost and time penalty I’m paying driving and walking and just get the same benefit from a health club stair-climber….. But I’ve never been accused of being in my right mind. Ok, so maybe it is about being immersed in the beauty of my beloved Smoky Mountains. 8) [caption id="attachment_791" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The elk herd of Cataloochee grazes in the morning"] [/caption] Anyway…I decided to work through my Forrest issue, suck it up and just keep walking. So you know the drill…out the door, drive, etc. Destination today, Cataloochee! The Cataloochee area of the Smokies is one sure-fire cure for the ‘I don’t feel like walking anymore’ blues. Before I reach my starting point at the Pretty Hollow Gap trailhead I’m reminded once again of why I love this hobby so much. Stunning views from the Blue Ridge Parkway and of the Cataloochee Valley, two magnificent bull elk, another large herd of elk, a huge flock of wild turkey….I guess I can do this ONE more time. Fantastic Cataloochee and the climb up Pretty Hollow Gap Trail The Cataloochee area was the Smoky’s most populous area when the National Park Service started buying property to create the National Park early in the twentieth century. As a result, many families were displaced and they left behind historic structures of all different types. Here there are terrific examples of log and early milled-lumber home construction, large historic churches, cemeteries, schoolhouses, and rock walls and foundations. Adding to the enjoyment is the aforementioned abundance of wildlife, scenic mountain and meadow vistas, numerous picturesque creeks, and a fair share of old-growth forest featuring big trees. It is no wonder why the crowds would be as thick as a Smoky Mountain forest when I returned from my tough walk later in the day. [caption id="attachment_781" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Pretty Hollow Creek"] [/caption] By 8:30 AM I'd driven the long, winding 13.3 mile access road from US 276 to Cataloochee and as Forrest would say 'I was walking'. Pretty Hollow Gap Trail starts beside Palmer Creek and one of the historic buildings, the Beech Grove Schoolhouse, built in 1901. The innocent looking horse trail will eventually climb nearly 2500’ on the way up to Pretty Hollow Gap, but at the start I enjoy the tame little road walk that quickly passes two busy horse camps on the right as it follows Palmer Creek upstream. A short 0.8 miles up the trail I pass the intersection with the Little Cataloochee trailhead on the right, which will be my return route this afternoon. I continue to the left and eventually climb a bit for nice views above the creek before reaching the Palmer Creek trailhead after another 0.8 miles. Just before the intersection I spook three good sized white-tail deer that were drinking from Palmer Creek. They bound off across the trail and out of sight. [caption id="attachment_795" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Palmer Creek"] [/caption] After the intersection I leave Palmer Creek behind and begin a climb beside one of its tributaries, Pretty Hollow Creek, on a more typical trail. The climb is not too tough at this point, but after a couple of miles I cross the creek on a nice footlog and the trail immediately becomes more steep and rocky. From here the only thing I remember is wondering with each bend in the trail why I haven’t reached Pretty Hollow Gap yet. It has to be around the next bend…ok, maybe the next one…ok, maybe the next one….ok…Finally, I reach 5179’ Pretty Hollow Gap and a chance for a rest and a quick snack before the next 700’ climb along Mount Sterling Ridge Trail to the intersection with the Mount Sterling Trail. I was here at this Gap in early June on my 20.4 mile marathon walk from Beech Gap to Mount Sterling. Mount Sterling Ridge Trail and Mount Sterling Trail After leaving Pretty Hollow Gap I start the immediate climb up the 1.4 mile section of Mount Sterling Ridge Trail that connects with the Mount Sterling Trail. I’m surprised at the overgrowth as I trudge through the wet coneflower and white snakeroot that hide most of the trail. Immediately my socks and pants are soaked and the trail, unable to get sunlight, is thick with mud. Being typically spoiled on my Smokies walks by outstanding trail maintenance, I wonder why this trail is so overdue for cleanup, especially given the fact that it is probably heavily traveled. Nevertheless the forest is stunning as usual, with tall red spruce dominating both sides of the climb. Before long I complete the tough uphill and reach the highest elevation of my walk today at the intersection with the Mount Sterling Trail. [caption id="attachment_782" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Spruce-fir on Mount Sterling Ridge Trail"] [/caption] After talking with some friendly day-hikers resting at the intersection, I survey the conditions and decide to skip the 0.4 mile walk over to the Mount Sterling summit and tower. I had almost 10 miles to go plus a 3 hour drive back to South Carolina in front of me, so no time for an extra 0.8 miles to see the clouded-in tower I saw back in June. I started my return trip downhill on Mount Sterling Trail, which turned out to be a trail without much going for it when traveling in this direction. It was steep and rocky, and the only highlight was a couple of small clearings to see the views, which weren’t great today. Soon I reach the intersection with Long Bunk Trail. The little gap where Mount Sterling Trail and Long Bunk Trail intersect is another one of those decision points for you 900 mile club seekers out there. That’s because Mount Sterling Trail continues 0.5 mile down the mountain to Mount Sterling Gap at the Park boundary. Yep, it’s officially part of trail and if you want to be in ‘the club’ it counts. As for me, I decided that if in a hundred years from now it is really important for me to say I’ve completed all the trails in the Smokies I’ll come back and jog the 0.5 miles out and 0.5 miles back from Mount Sterling Gap. At this point in my walking life, it doesn’t really matter…so I leave the spur behind and continue my loop on the Long Bunk Trail. Long Bunk Trail Long Bunk Trail is long and bunky…whatever that means. 3.6 miles long. I leave my beloved spruce-fir forest behind as I descend. The highlights of this trail were the stream crossings of Corral Branch and Dude Branch, tributaries of Woody Creek, and the big trees. The trail is mostly descending which is much appreciated this late in the walk. One crossing contained a really nice example of a fallen tree right beside the trail that played nurse to new growth of ferns, moss, beech, and maple trees. Towards the end of the trail I pass the Hannah Cemetery, one of the few cemeteries I’ve come across in the Smokies that is fenced in. The cemetery is also in much better condition than many I’ve seen, with what looks like relatively recent decorations of flowers and ribbons. Just a short while later I reach the intersection with the Little Cataloochee Trail. Here another short spur connects the trail to Old NC 284. Again, that mile will have to wait for another day when it becomes important to me. Little Cataloochee Trail – What’s this, another climb?! [caption id="attachment_783" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Little Cataloochee Church"] [/caption] After almost 400 miles of walking in the Smokies you’d think I’d learn by now to check the darn elevation profile BEFORE I decide to tackle a big loop walk. Nah…how bad could it be? I know I’m climbing up nearly to Mount Sterling in the morning so I have to just be cruising downhill in the afternoon, right? …Yeah, right…way to go Ace. Somewhere about halfway down Long Bunk Trail I decided to take a gander at the old trail handbook and low and behold…Somebody stuck a darn mountain ridge perpendicular to the trail and I’m facing a 900’ climb on Little Cataloochee Trail near day’s end!! Ugh! Now 900’ doesn’t sound like much and it probably isn’t for most folks, but for me climbing 900’ after already walking 15 miles is not my idea of happy ending. Fortunately Little Cataloochee Trail has some historic highlights that take one’s mind off one’s troubles. These highlights include the Hannah Cabin, Little Cataloochee Church, and the Cook Cabin. The cabins are excellent log home specimens, complete with windows. The church is stunning also, but I didn’t explore around those areas much thanks to the long drive I was facing. There is so much history here and the area definitely deserves a slower-paced visit, but that will have to be another day. The first section of Little Cataloochee Trail is primarily an uphill road walk, which normally isn’t ideal but at the end of the long day my legs and feet appreciated not having to step over big rocks and roots. After the Cook Cabin, however, things got tougher. I must have set a land speed record for slowest ascent as I trudged up and over Davidson Gap. I definitely thanked the Lord on this one when I saw the top of the hill. Near the top was the really unusual sight of a large stone wall…I can’t imagine building a stone wall this size (or any size) this far up here away from everything. These mountain folk were a tough breed. [caption id="attachment_784" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The Cook Cabin"] [/caption] After Davidson Gap I cruised downhill and through the several rock-hop crossings of Davidson Creek and thick mud to the intersection of Pretty Hollow Gap Trail. From there, just 0.8 miles of familiar ground to that typical relieved feeling of seeing the car. Leaving Cataloochee the elk show was phenomenal, with the two huge bull elk that were grazing way back in the fields this morning now just a couple of feet of the road as if to pose for pictures. Cataloochee is a tough place to leave, and I’m really glad I decided not to stop walking today. [caption id="attachment_785" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="A big bull in Cataloochee Valley"] [/caption] Low elevation on today’s 16.1 mile loop walk was around 2750’ at the parking area beside Palmer Creek and high elevation was around 5700’ at the Mount Sterling Ridge Trail/Mount Sterling Trail intersection. Today’s walk included lots of wildlife and almost 5400’ of overall climbing. ‘I’m tired…I wanna go home’. For pics of this walk, click the link below: Pretty Hollow Gap Loop(Opens in new window)

[caption id="attachment_755" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Getting ready to roll onto Kephart Prong Trail"]

[/caption] To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below: Kephart Prong Trail(Opens in new window) 4 mile out-and-back walk to the Kephart backcountry shelter along Kephart Prong Trail – September 6, 2009 Labor Day weekend meant a break from my normal hiking schedule to enjoy some good old-fashioned camping with the family. The campfires, smores, and relaxation were very welcome, as was finally being able to sleep past 5 AM on a weekend Saturday. But we did take a few hours Sunday to enjoy a short streamside walk through the Smokies on an old friend, the Kephart Prong Trail. Kephart Prong Trail was the trail that started this walking obsession for me back in May of 2008, and it would be my fifth visit. On each of my previous walks I thought to myself about how the family would really enjoy this gem of a trail. So the cloudy and damp pre-Labor Day Sunday was a perfect opportunity to introduce my boys to the trail I’ve enjoyed so much again and again and again. (and again) Relics of the past on Kephart Prong Trail Kephart Prong Trail is a short but pleasant walk through thick mid-elevation forest and following its namesake creek up to the Kephart shelter, one of only three backcountry shelters that are not the Appalachian Trail. Along the way this trail showcases relics from 1930’s-era Civilian Conservation Corps camp that bordered the Oconaluftee River as well as the railroads that carried logging trains up and down the mountains in the pre-Park days. Four terrific examples of original CCC footlog bridges crossing high above Kephart Prong add to the enjoyment of this trail. [caption id="attachment_756" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The boys check out the old CCC camp water fountain"] [/caption] We were unsure that we’d get a walk in on the Sunday before Labor Day because some pesky showers were threatening to wash out the day. But around lunchtime it was evident that the showers would not be heavy, so we packed up and headed out with the thought of walking in the Deep Creek area. We made a quick plan change however once we saw the ridiculous traffic snarls in Cherokee, and instead drove directly into the Smokies and up Newfound Gap Road to the trailhead just a few miles north of the Smokemont area. The boys were ready to roll with pockets filled with trail fuel and I had an easy time with my lighter than usual pack due to the short trail. I typically carry way more than I need, but on this trail I lightened up the load and it was a welcome change. [caption id="attachment_757" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The boys check out the chimney at the old CCC camp"] [/caption] The boys very much enjoyed wandering through the old CCC camp that is just a short distance up from the trailhead. Here we explored the old chimney, pump, camp sign, water fountain, and various other rockwork left behind when the camp was abandoned. Shortly after the first of four nice footlog crossings takes us over scenic Kephart Prong. The boys are not sure they like the high, rickety crossings, so on the return trip they decide to just plunge through the sometimes knee-high but tame creek rather than using the crossings. From the first crossing the trail becomes a wide Jeep road, with nice views of the many cascades of Kephart Prong below the trail to the right. Nick explores and old cistern further up the trail on the left. After the second crossing the trail becomes much more rocky before finally narrowing and steepening a bit near the shelter. At the third crossing old railroad ties are visible to the left, remnants of the former logging operations that took all of the old-growth out of this area. The damp forest is thick with ferns, moss, and rhododendron, but unfortunately there are many large standing-dead hemlocks. [caption id="attachment_762" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Thomas at Kephart shelter for the first time"] [/caption] The trail travels uphill the entire distance and eventually gains about 820’, so it was a nice little workout for the boys. Before long they are asking the inevitable ‘are we there yet’, so I give Thomas GPS duty to keep his mind off the uphill trudge. But it doesn’t take long before we reach the Kephart shelter, a nice small backcountry shelter that has been renovated to the new open style. Here we talk with several folks staying the night who turn out to be from the Columbia area as well…small world. I fill them in on the opening weekend college football scores and they appreciate the news from the ‘outside world’. Two Appalachian Trail connector trails converge here, Sweat Heifer Creek Trail and Grassy Branch Trail, so this shelter is often an overnight spot for folks doing a popular AT loop out of Newfound Gap. I completed those connector trails, both in the uphill direction, last Summer. Kephart Prong to Grassy Branch to Dry Sluice Gap to Charlies Bunion and back was a memorable and tough 12 mile day-hike for me last year. After a quick break at the shelter and a little bit of playing in the creek the boys and I return back the way we came. The boys are thrilled with how easy the return trip is compared to the uphill trek and as a result they do a lot more talking and looking around. After big fun sloshing through the creek crossings we complete the trail in short order to round out another memorable day in the Smokies on an old favorite trail. [caption id="attachment_758" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Kephart Prong"] [/caption] Low elevation on today’s 4 mile walk was around 2700’ at the parking area on Newfound Gap Road and high elevation was around 3500’ at the Kephart backcountry shelter. For pics of this walk, click the link below: Kephart Prong Trail(Opens in new window)

[caption id="attachment_731" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Ramsey Cascades"]

[/caption] To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below: Ramsey Cascades Trail(Opens in new window) 8 mile out-and-back walk to the Ramsey Cascades along Ramsey Cascades Trail – August 29, 2009 [caption id="attachment_723" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Another gorgeous sunrise in the Smokies"] [/caption] Ok, the West is interesting and grand..but give me my Smokies please! Thankfully back in town after a short trip to the Left Coast, it was time to do some climbing again back in familiar territory. Today would be my first visit to the pretty Greenbrier area on the Smoky’s north side just east of Gatlinburg. Those that have followed my site for a while know the drill well….drive, sleep, out the door before sunrise, drive again, “hey an elk”, “hey … turkey”, “WOW, look at that sunrise”, over the mountains, through sleeping Gatlinburg, up the long entrance road, and on the trail before 8:15 AM. Today’s destination is another one of those overall top-10 Smoky destinations, the Ramsey Cascades. The Ramsey Cascades are the Smoky’s highest elevation ‘waterfall’ accessible by trail. (huh, what about unofficial Flat Creek Falls?) The only way to get there is via the short (4 miles one way) but challenging Ramsey Cascades Trail, which treats you to a gain of more than 2100’ of elevation from the parking area. This is my kind of trail, short, sweet, busting your lungs with a steep climb at times, parading you through old-growth, and providing you with a grand payoff at trail’s end. Oh yeah, and then letting you walk downhill all the way home. One word for this trail..NICE! Climbing up Ramsey Cascades Trail [caption id="attachment_733" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Middle Prong of the Little Pigeon River"] [/caption] Ramsey Cascades Trail travels due east and uphill along Ramsey Prong, between Greenbrier Pinnacle and Pinnacle Lead on the north and Guyot Spur on the south. These are finger ridges of the main Smokies crest that branch off from the main crest between 6370' Old Black and 6621' Mount Guyot. Ramsey Cascades trailhead is about 5 miles up the Greenbrier entrance road as it travels beside the wide and rocky Little Pigeon River. There is no camping here but you do pass a Ranger Station about 1 mile up the road and a small picnic area about 3 miles up. Here you take a quick left and cross the Little Pigeon River on a narrow bridge, following a gravel road through thick forest until you reach the parking area beside the Middle Prong of the Little Pigeon River a short time later. Two early risers have beaten me to the trail today, and later when I return around 2 PM the parking lot would be full to capacity. This pretty trail and cascade are popular and very close to crowded Gatlinburg, so if you come don’t expect a lot of solitude. In fact, this is one of those trails where it’s tough to even find a spot for a ‘trail break’. 8) Don’t let that deter you though, because the payoff is worth the walk. About 50 yards from the trailhead the trail takes a sharp left and crosses Middle Prong on a sturdy footbridge. Immediately I’m treated to a prelude of things to come, with a nice section of cascades tumbling down the mountains just to my right. I can tell I’ll be taking a lot of pictures again today. Just a few steps later I’m stunned at the site of giant boulders on the left, with one playing host to its own little forest that grows out the top. The first part of the trail travels uphill along a wide gravel path suitable for smaller Park maintenance vehicles. The forest is mixed hardwood, fraser magnolia, and dying hemlock, having been logged before the Park was established. At the 1.5 mile mark a traffic circle signals the end of the gravel road walk. The next 2.5 miles will be more of a ‘real’ trail. Tunnels and old growth [caption id="attachment_726" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The biggest of the big poplars along the trail"] [/caption] Just after the traffic circle the trail disappears into a very cool dark tunnel of rhododendron. The tunnel travels beside Ramsey Prong now and I notice what seems to be an increase in steepness. Not too long after a high, wide footlog takes me across Ramsey Prong and I stop to take some pictures of the deep green pools. After a short rest I climb again, coming close to the creek as the trail swings around. Shortly after, I begin to enter the largest stand of old-growth forest in the Smokies. The trail flattens momentarily as it swings away from the creek and I see the first two of the big old-growth poplars standing like sentinels with the trail crossing between. They are impressive, but just around the corner is an even bigger monster poplar. I guess those first two sentinels were guarding the queen. A tree that has survived in these harsh lands for this long deserves to have its picture taken…so I stop and oblige. Further up are more big trees, including some near record-sized silverbells. On up the trail just a bit is my favorite footlog to date. This new-looking nice two-section bridge zig-zags across Ramsey Prong with the two sections coming together atop of a boulder mid-stream. In fact, time to take an opportunity to also give kudos to the workers that installed very helpful stone steps in many spots on the trail. Without those steps some of the steep sections would be a real nightmare to traverse. [caption id="attachment_727" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="A cool crossing of Ramsey Prong"] [/caption] Reaching Ramsey Cascades Yo Adrian, after the crossing this trail really gets ‘Rocky’. Rocky and STEEP. Huff, puff, huff, puff…I know I hear a waterfall, where is it? Thankfully the cascades soon come into partial view, but first I deal with a tricky crossing. Fortunately the water is not too high today so I make it across without much difficulty. My first real look at the Ramsey Cascades brings that typical outcome as brain tells mouth to go WOW! Ok, so it’s not officially a waterfall, but in my book the Ramsey Cascades immediately supplant all other waterfalls I’ve seen in the Smokies as my new favorite. Water that started as a trickle high up on the Appalachian Trail at 6621' Mount Guyot now tumbles 100 feet down from a wide stone ridge across several platforms and the result is simply gorgeous. I sit and gawk at the plunging water for a while and enjoy the seemingly 10 degree temperature drop and constant cool breeze. I watch the big spiders hanging over the creek and the little red squirrels that are scurrying about looking for handouts. After talking with other day-hikers and taking scads of pictures I load up and head back the way I came up. The return trip is almost exclusively downhill, with a stop for a while to talk to Wayne from Knoxville. Wayne walks hundreds of miles a year around the Smokies, and I enjoy the lengthy chat with him. After we part I coast into the parking area happy to finally be able to finish a trail many hours before sunset. If it were up to me all day-hikes would be 8 miles. (Eight is enough, right? 8) ) As always I thoroughly enjoyed another great day walking around my favorite familiar territory. [caption id="attachment_730" align="aligncenter" width="225" caption="Old Dan at Ramsey Cascades"] [/caption] Low elevation on today’s 8 mile walk was around 2100’ at the parking area and high elevation was around 4200’ at the Ramsey Cascades. All around the Smokies are signs that Summer 2009, and the heat and humidity that go with it, is about to be history. I will welcome the upcoming change to the cool, clear days of Fall. [caption id="attachment_732" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Fall is coming and I\'m ready for it"] [/caption] For pics of this walk, click the link below: Ramsey Cascades Trail(Opens in new window)