Old Dan Walking

Hughes Ridge Loop(Opens in new window)

15.7 mile loop walk on Hughes Ridge in the Great Smoky Mountains. The loop started and ended at the Smokemont Campground and included Bradley Fork Trail, Chasteen Creek Trail, and Hughes Ridge Trail – September 4, 2010

Summer break may be over but clearly the Summer season was trying to hang around and pretend back to school never happened and it wasn’t the first weekend of football season, like that cousin that starts school later than you do and won’t go home. But finally, on the first Saturday of September and of Labor Day weekend, a cold front broke Summer’s will and he was in full retreat. Sing it with me now….HAAAAA-LE-LU-JAH!!! For the first time in months, I was actually chilly when I stepped out of the car at the full Smokemont Campground, the smell of breakfast wafting through the clear morning air. I set out for today’s walk before realizing it was in fact so chilly that I might actually need my fleece later, so I did a 180 and grabbed my long lost friend out of the back of the car. I wouldn’t have wanted to get stuck out on the trail tonight without it in lows that were probably going to reach the high 30’s in the high country. 

Today would be one of the most critical days in my 2.5 year hiking ‘career’. For the first time since severely re-aggravating my old back injury 3 months ago, I was going to try a long day on the trail. In the nearly twenty years since going under the knife to repair some blown out disks, I’ve learned to tell the difference between when I just tweaked my back and when it was serious. This one felt serious. Since late Spring I’ve been cutting back on the strenuous climbing, and when I did walk, limiting myself to under 6 miles. But lately I’ve been feeling better, and it was time to put my recovery to the test. Tackling today’s 15.7 mile loop would mean I’d have to shoulder my heavy day-pack rather that the hip pack I’d been using for recent short jaunts. There was much trepidation and doubt as I set out from the campground up Bradley Fork Trail around 9:30 AM.  

Bradley Fork Trail and the climb up Chasteen Creek Trail

Not far along Bradley Fork Trail I came across an interesting sight. A three-foot-wide boulder had eroded away from the upper portion of the trail, the part that connects in from the Luftee Baptist Church, and fallen on the lower trail. Glad I wasn’t walking by when that thing fell. Bradley Fork Trail climbs above the namesake creek and follows to the right of it for 4 easy, gradually ascending miles. I’d do 1.2 miles of it in the morning and the remaining miles this afternoon, when I knew I’d appreciate the gradual, easy descent. Today the trail was missing its usual quagmire of mud thanks to lack of rain and some recent maintenance. On the right was some sort of hedge-nettle with striking blue flowers and an abundance of orange jewelweed. In a blink it was time to turn right onto Chasteen Creek Trail. 

Striking blue berries of the umbrella leaf and the dangling red berries of rosy twisted-stalk line the sides of the trail. At one nice spot the trail almost levels in a peaceful cove…and I stop to listen to the silence. The only sounds are from trees rubbing together in the wind, making the sound of either a horse whinnying or a cow mooing…depending on the species of tree I guess. J 

Doubts creep in on Hughes Ridge

To this point I've felt pretty good, but the climb becomes relentless after the nice cove. Switching back several times, I finally see the edges of Enloe Ridge in the distance, providing hope that I'm nearing the top. But as is often the case on a big climb, I've got a long way to go. Switchback after switchback, I'm really starting to feel the effects of the 3 month layoff. Finally, mercifully, I crest Hughes Ridge and reach the intersection with Hughes Ridge Trail. The first fir tree appears at the junction, and I'm at almost 4700' in elevation. To the right, Hughes Ridge Trail used to descend down into the campground across Becks Bald, but that section is no longer maintained.

I turn left and begin the northern trek towards the AT along Hughes Ridge and the trail built by the CCC in 1934. Sprawling Hughes Ridge runs perpendicular to the Smokies spine and separates the Oconaluftee River valley from the Balsam Mountains. Ridge walking in the Smokies is normally a fantastic experience, but I'm not enjoying it today. It is up-and-down walking, and I've had about all I can take. To my dismay, I've got about 400' of elevation to gain before I reach the high point of today's walk (~5100'), and even then the climbing won't be over. At 0.5 mile I pass the Enloe Creek Trail intersection, a trail that turns right and drops into the Balsams. It is on my to-do list, but at this point I have strong doubts that I'll ever see that trail again. The spruce-fir is starting to become more prevelent as I trek north. There are what should be awesome views of Mine Ridge to my left, and later Katalsta Ridge to my right, but unfortunately I can't really seem them well through the trees. I should've saved this trail for late Fall or early Spring. 

Laurel tunnels and thick spruce now shroud the trail as I finally reach the intersection with Bradley Fork Trail at the 2.8 mile mark. I collapse in a pathetic heap after almost 1000' of climbing on a 'flat' ridgetop. I'm only 2.0 miles from Pecks Corner and 2.2 miles from the AT, so close I can taste it. I struggle with the fact that I'm so close to this remote area that is so difficult to reach any other way, but I decide not to add 4.4 miles to my already long day. It is late, and I'm pretty whipped already. It would take a 20 mile walk to complete those 2.2 miles today or any other day, so again I have strong doubts I'll ever see that un-walked section of trail. Reluctantly I swing left and start down Bradley Fork Trail for the long descent back to the campground.

I’m done…I think

Despite the fact that I’d been on Bradley Fork Trail more than any other Smokies trail, I had not previously walked the upper 3.3 miles. I can say now that I’d be ok if I never walked it again. The upper segment was a slow and steep miserable descent on rocks and ruts. Again, views would’ve been pretty decent through the laurel , beech, and oaks had it been a different time of year. At one point I even saw the top of Mount LeConte through the trees. The AT ridge was there too, but only briefly through the leaves. My mind had told my body that I was done, and at that point there was nothing I could do to enjoy the remainder of my walk. I even stowed my camera, which I never do. I was done. I walked head down through the remainder of the trail, barely noticing the abundant shrooms and views of Taywa Creek as the trail flattened out near the intersection with Cabin Flats Trail. I turned left at the traffic circle and sped through the remaining 4 miles, not even pausing to enjoy the creek. (you can see my pics of that section from different walks under ‘Hiking Journal Archives’ at the top of my page)

I'm writing this on Labor Day, two days post-walk. When I drove home exhausted late Saturday night I was sure I was going to quit this walking hobby. In fact I was positive. Why would I continue to put myself through the discomfort? I'm not sure, but now here I am two days later...and my only thoughts are that I'm thankful. Everything on my body hurts....everything except my back. Praise the Lord!...when is my next walk? J  

Low elevation on this 15.7 mile loop walk was around 2250' at the Bradley Fork trailhead in the Smokemont Campground and the high elevation was about 5090' on Hughes Ridge Trail. The walk included about 4000' in overall climbing.

For pics of this walk, click the link below:

Hughes Ridge Loop(Opens in new window)