Old Dan Walking

[caption id="attachment_1043" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The infamous tunnel"]

[/caption] To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below: Lakeshore and Goldmine Loop(Opens in new window) 7.8 mile inverted lollipop walk in the ‘Road-to-Nowhere’ area of the Smokies near Bryson City. The walk started and ended on the eastern trailhead for the Lakeshore Trail and included Goldmine Loop Trail and Tunnel Bypass Trail – December 28, 2009 Wow, I got up this morning with plans to write a normal post about my Monday walk on the Lakeshore Trail in the Road-to-Nowhere area of the Smokies, but an email I just received from another hiker I passed on the trail that day shook me up. It reminded me to be more careful about my casual conversations with inexperienced hikers I pass on the trail. After doing this Smokies walking thing for almost two years and reading many other hikers accounts of multiple 20+ mile days with no effort, I guess I take for granted that some of these short walks that seem to not be a big deal can be trouble for the inexperienced and unprepared. Particularly in the winter, where taking the wrong turn and getting lost means potentially dealing with a sub-20 degree night without proper gear. [caption id="attachment_1041" align="alignright" width="300" caption="The Road to Nowhere"] [/caption] Cutting to the chase, fortunately after some tense moments for this nice lady she was able to find her way out and did not have to spend a freezing night out in the woods. Thank God for that. She separated from her hiking partner on Goldmine Loop Trail, and he was able to find his way back to the parking lot, get a flashlight and some water and come find her. I try not to be too judgmental when I come across seemingly inexperienced hikers, because I started there too....and often I’ve found out that they have logged many more miles than I’ll ever walk. But thinking back on my conversation I can see that I made the Goldmine Loop Trail sound too inviting and easy, despite the fact that I had not walked it yet myself. I’d only read about it. I assumed a little 2 mile trail so close to the road would not be an issue, and probably said something like “it shouldn’t be bad”. I didn’t specifically say to take the trail, but didn’t specifically say not to either. As it turned out the trail is seldom used, and therefore can be difficult to stay on in the low winter evening light. Next time I’ll be more careful. I am very thankful it worked out ok. The inverted lollipop on Lakeshore Trail [caption id="attachment_1052" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The eastern trailhead for the Lakeshore Trail"] [/caption] My planned walk for today was to be in a shape that Smoky Scout aptly described as a ‘pair of eyeglasses’. But car trouble spoiled that plan, so after heading to two different auto part stores and fixing the issue, my plan had to change due to a noon start. So I started out at the end of the Road-to-Nowhere and headed toward the tunnel for some low elevation walking along Lakeshore Trail. The 365 yard long tunnel is much different in the low winter light, as it was lit all the way through and didn’t seem nearly as awful as usual. The only problem was that it was cold..incredibly cold. A stiff wind was whipping through and I swore I would freeze to death before reaching the other side. Thankfully sunlight awaited on the other end. [caption id="attachment_1042" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Fontana Lake from Lake View Drive"] [/caption] I trudged up Lakeshore Trail, quickly passing the Tunnel Bypass Trail and then the Goldmine Loop Trail intersections on the left. I would bypass the tunnel on my return via the Goldmine Loop Trail later this afternoon. The low elevation forest has nice views toward southwestern peaks through the pine and bare hickory and oak trees. The forest floor is clay and this area has a feel much like walking a north Georgia forest. Two climbs and descents take me creekside into a nice low area of rhododendron tunnels and eventually to the intersection with Whiteoak Branch Trail. This would’ve been the other lens of the eyeglass, but instead I continue west on Lakeshore Trail, passing a former settled area on the right and then around a bend and over Gray Wolf Creek on a bridge. Here a spur trail to the right travels a few hundred yards up a steep hill to the Woody Cemetery, which I’ll explore on the return trip. I continue on through white pine forest with the sound of Gray Wolf Creek on the left, eventually coming to the spot where Fontana Lake comes into view for the first time. Switching back right, I reach the end of my western trek today at Campsite #74, a total of 3 miles from the trailhead by the tunnel. Returning along the Goldmine Loop Trail [caption id="attachment_1044" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Forney Creek"] [/caption] Large campsite #74 sits directly beside Forney Creek, which is really roaring now as it empties into Fontana Lake just a few hundred yards downstream. It is neat to think that this ever-flowing water started downhill many miles away as a mere trickle high up on Clingmans Dome. It is wickedly cold here beside the beautiful creek, with the brisk wind whipping through the camp. Nobody is here but a tarp hangs from the bear cables and fresh wood is in the fire pit. After a snack at the picnic table I head back the way I came, turning left this time by Gray Wolf Creek to trudge uphill and visit the hilltop Woody Cemetery. The many infant graves are another solemn reminder of how fortunate we are to live in this time and place. Continuing on, I pause to speak to the aforementioned hikers and discuss my route back along Goldmine Loop Trail. [caption id="attachment_1045" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Old chimney"] [/caption] The 2 mile long Goldmine Loop Trail starts with a steep descent and I can tell already it is not heavily traveled. Soon the trail levels and travels beside a remnant fireplace and old flat homesite next to a small stream. The forest is closed-in with heavy rhododendron tunnels overhead and dog-hobble underbrush. Another homesite is across the creek with two large boxwoods and some artifacts scattered about. Then there are several muddy crossings and a sharp right turn at Campsite #67. I did not explore the camp today, but it is said to have a chimney and more artifacts. Continuing into a low and muddy section of the trail directly beside Hyatt Branch, I finally reach the finger where Hyatt Branch and Tunnel Branch empty into Fontana Lake. The lake level is way down, as is typical this time of year. [caption id="attachment_1046" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Fontana Lake"] [/caption] I switch away from the lake and make the steep and seemingly endless climb back up to the intersection with the Tunnel Bypass Trail, along the way thinking “I sure hope those nice folks didn’t take this route”. Gorgeous northwestern views of Welch Ridge help me forget the tough climb. After the intersection, a short 0.4 mile trek along Tunnel Bypass Trail brings me back to the parking lot and a warm car. I drive back to South Carolina unaware of the trouble my new friends are having due to a wrong turn on the Goldmine Loop Trail. [caption id="attachment_1047" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Views from the Goldmine Loop Trail"] [/caption] Low elevation on today’s 7.8 mile inverted lollipop walk was around 1700’ on Lakeshore Trail and high elevation was near 2400’, also on Lakeshore Trail. Despite the fact that there wasn’t much pure elevation gain, this tough little walk had a lot of ups and downs and included about 3010’ of overall climbing. For pics of this walk, click the link below: Lakeshore and Goldmine Loop(Opens in new window)

[caption id="attachment_1006" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Morning views"]

[/caption] To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below: Brushy Mountain Trail(Opens in new window) 10.4 mile (approx) out-and-back walk from the Greenbrier area of the Smokies. The walk started and ended on the Porters Creek trailhead and included Brushy Mountain Trail and a short excursion to the restored Smoky Mountain Hiking Club cabin – December 27, 2009 Lots of snow leftover from last week’s big storm remained on the roadsides and hillsides as I drove through Asheville and Waynesville Saturday on my way to base camp in Cherokee. I walked a bunch last winter but I can’t remember seeing this much snow a week after a storm. It was a beautiful sight but had created quite a mess for the locals, and it would foreshadow the mess that I was in for on my Sunday walk. As is typical the snow began to disappear just past Balsam Gap, and despite the cold temps there was no sign of snow anywhere from Balsam all the way into Cherokee. I rolled in to camp and turned in early in preparation for my first official walk of the 2009-10 winter season. [caption id="attachment_1008" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Porters Creek"] [/caption] You’ve heard this story before, but I just never get tired of seeing the westward views as I drive up and over Newfound Gap in the mornings on my way to a north face trailhead. It will be one of those things I miss the most when I finally abandon base camp in Cherokee soon. I won’t miss the driving, but I’ll definitely miss the drive. The deep snow at the top of the Gap added additional glimmer on this first Sunday morning of winter. Destination today was my second walk out of the Greenbrier area, a formerly thriving settlement just east of Gatlinburg. Back to Greenbrier and up the Porters Creek Trail [caption id="attachment_1017" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Old car remains on Porters Creek Trail"] [/caption] Last time I headed up Greenbrier Road to Ramsey Cascades I turned left at the bridge over the Little Pigeon River, but this time I continued straight to the large parking area for the Porters Creek Trail. I was the first car in the parking lot despite the fact that it was already 9:40 AM. Porters Creek Trail starts as a nice uphill stroll along a wide flat Jeep road beside very picturesque Porters Creek. Soon evidence of the former settlement appears in the form of scattered boulders and piles of rock lining the right side of trail. After a nice bridged crossing of Long Branch several rock walls are noticeable and the rock staircase for the Ownby Cemetery appears on the right. I’ll check the cemetery out on my return trip this afternoon. After an easy mile I reach the traffic circle at Porters Flats. This area has one of the few remaining mature and healthy hemlock forests, a beautiful sight that has now become very rare thanks to devastating effects of the Hemlock Wooley Adelgid. The close proximity of the forest to the flat Jeep road means these trees are probably treated regularly by the Park Service. [caption id="attachment_1009" align="alignright" width="300" caption="The John Messer barn"] [/caption] At the traffic circle Porters Creek Trail branches off to the left and eventually ends at Campsite #31, 2.6 miles due south. At mid-circle is the Brushy Mountain trailhead, my destination for today. But first I’ll branch off from the right side of the circle and follow the short spur over to see the restored John Messer barn. This is an excellent example of a cantilevered barn and according to the sign was built around 1875. [caption id="attachment_1010" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="SMHC cabin"] [/caption] Beyond the barn is another excellent piece of history, the restored log cabin and spring house built by the Smoky Mountain Hiking Club between 1934 and 1936. I take a few minutes and explore the cabin and the area around it, which includes an old millstone, a two-sided chimney, sleeping bunks, and a two-seater outhouse. Abandon on Brushy Mountain Trail I backtrack to the trailhead for Brushy Mountain Trail and begin the trek up toward Brushy Mountain. On the way I pass another rock wall and a shallow crossing of Long Branch, then another chimney and old washtub further up on the right. Around a bend there is another flat area with the scattered remains of many chimneys and foundations. Here I would see a couple wild turkeys rushing past on my return this afternoon. It seems the animals like the flats too. After this point the climbing gets constant and before long views begin to appear of the Smokies main crest. At one point the trail swings around to the southeast and passes through a jumbled area of heavy vine underbrush where trail workers had cleared a gorgeous view of the Porters Creek drainage and Porters Mountain. [caption id="attachment_1012" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Views"] [/caption] Climbing higher, it is noticeably colder in the shaded coves. Snow starts to appear scattered along the ground. The other thing that begins to appear is debris, and lots of it. Every few yards I have to content with downed branches, broken rhododendron, or felled trees, victims of the recent high wind, snow, ice events. Not enough debris to cause me to abandon my climb, but just enough to be a pain and cause me to slow down considerably to crawl over, around, or through the obstacles. I ramble on, and soon begin to see the sides of Mount LeConte and Brushy Mountain through the barren trees. Sun-loving Table Mountain Pine are apparent as the trail swings to the south, and I stop for a break on Love Rock, a large stone in the middle of the trail with a heart shaped indention in it from which you can view the sides of LeConte. I continue on and eventually reach a very nice crossing of Trillium Branch, pausing to listen to the creek tumbling down the slope. [caption id="attachment_1013" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Snow getting thick"] [/caption] [caption id="attachment_1018" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Ownby Cemetery"] [/caption] After the crossing the going begins to get tougher as the snow is getting thick. My tracks are the first ones in the area as I crunch uphill, sometimes sinking over my ankles in the icy snow. The trail then switches back on itself and rounds a corner with today’s destination, the summit of Brushy Mountain, in full view. But that’s as far as I would go today. Just around another bend I am stopped in my tracks by a massive fallen hemlock stretched across the trail. I survey it for a while, sit and have a snack, look for ways around the steep banks…but ultimately decide to turn around. Had my car been at the trailhead on the other side I may have risked it, but I did not see an easy/safe way over or around this huge tree and decided I would have my first-ever abandon due to trail conditions. I returned to my car somewhat dejected that I did not reach my goal, but already planning that God willing I’d reach the summit from the other side via the Trillium Gap Trail some other day. [caption id="attachment_1015" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Time to abandon"] [/caption] Low elevation on today’s (estimated) 10.4 mile out-and-back walk was around 1900’ at the Porters Creek trailhead and high elevation was approximately 4300’ on the Brushy Mountain Trail. The Brushy Mountain summit, planned destination for today, is around 4900’. Had I completed the walk it would have included about 3500’ of overall climbing. For pics of this walk, click the link below: Brushy Mountain Trail(Opens in new window)

[caption id="attachment_970" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="An early season snow closed Newfound Gap Road"]

[/caption] To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below: Deep Creek Loop(Opens in new window) 6.2 mile loop walk out of the Deep Creek area of the Smokies. The walk started and ended on the southern trailhead for the Deep Creek Trail and included Loop Trail, Indian Creek Trail, Stone Pile Gap Trail, and Thomas Divide Trail – December 5, 2009 I have mentioned in previous posts about how the Smoky Mountain weather can change your plans in a hurry, and on this early December Saturday I would get a taste of just that. Prognosticators were calling for 3-6” of snow in the higher elevations, with 1-3” at the lower elevations. The rains came first though around 3 AM at Cherokee base camp, with the switchover to snow occurring around 8:30. I’m here to tell you we had nowhere near 1” however, because by 10:30 the snow had stopped and by 10:31 all traces of it were gone. I rolled out of camp hoping to catch a walk on the Tennessee side, but unfortunately Newfound Gap Road was closed. I waited around for a while to see if it would open back up but gave up around 11 AM and headed for Deep Creek and Plan B. (Does anyone know if Newfound Gap Road stayed closed?) [caption id="attachment_971" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Tom Branch Falls"] [/caption] Today’s late start and the limited sunlight of the late-Autumn days meant I had to choose a short walk, so I decided to take a loop walk out of Deep Creek and catch some short segments I hadn’t walked before. Plan was to cruise up Deep Creek Trail, head over Sunkota Ridge via the Loop Trail, then climb to Thomas Ridge via the Stone Pile Gap Trail, then return to the car via a Thomas Divide Trail and a road walk on Tom Branch Road, a total of 6.2 miles. Returning to Deep Creek Trail and the Loop Trail [caption id="attachment_974" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Pretty views of distant snow-covered ridges today"] [/caption] Obviously it had just snowed so you it goes without saying that it was a chilly start as I headed up Deep Creek Trail around noon. Don’t count on the typical Smokies trail warm up as you walk the lower section of Deep Creek Trail, because this first 1.2 mile section is a road walk next to wide Deep Creek and only rises about 200 feet in elevation. I had to break out the gloves, which again is unusual because I typically take off layers as I start walking, not put them on. I stopped for a quick look at the two nice falls on the lower section, Tom Branch Falls and Indian Creek Falls. It was nice to see a reasonable water flow on these two pleasant falls because the past couple of years of drought had reduced them to trickles at times. After passing Indian Creek Falls it began to sleet, lightly at first and then picking up some gusto a bit later. I thought about breaking out the rain gear but I could tell from the breaks in the clouds that it wouldn’t last. A short time later there was nothing left but clear and beautiful Carolina blue skies. After passing through the lowland hemlock and pine forests and occasionally stopping for pictures of Deep Creek, I reached the Loop Trail intersection. [caption id="attachment_986" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Indian Creek Falls in February 2009"] [/caption] [caption id="attachment_972" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Indian Creek Falls in December 2009"] [/caption] From this point north Deep Creek Trail becomes more of trail and less of road as it makes it way up into the high country and an intersection with Newfound Gap Road. I look forward to walking those miles someday, but for now I left that challenge behind and turned right for a decent little ascent up and over Sunkota Ridge on the 1 mile long Loop Trail. This trail isn’t a loop, but it can be combined with other trails to make a loop, such as the one I’m doing today. As I climb nice views of snow-covered distant peaks begin to appear through the bare trees. The calendar may say late-Autumn, but it is without a doubt Winter here in these parts. When I was on this trail in February, which was the first journal I put on the website, I was downhill on this section. I was surprised at how difficult this short climb was…must be the revenge of the turkey, gravy, and pie. 8) I rested at the Sunkota Ridge intersection and admired the remaining snow on the white pines and the views through the trees, before heading downhill to complete the trail and intersect with the Indian Creek Trail. [caption id="attachment_973" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Deep Creek"] [/caption] The second half of the loop A short and muddy 0.3 mile walk down Indian Creek Trail brings me to the Stone Pile Gap Trail intersection. Here I turn left and immediately descend a bit to parallel Indian Creek before crossing it on a nice footbridge. Shortly after the trail crews have put a nice log-section bridge over a small feeder stream. Spent beech and poplar leaves littering the wet and rocky trail make the climb a bit tricky, and again I’m surprised at how tough this little climb up Thomas Ridge is. I see no stone piles other than the stones all over the ground. Sheltered coves still have a bit of snow on the ground, and it also clings to the white pine needles. After a nice 0.9 mile climb through the switchbacks I finally reach the intersection I was at 3 weeks ago with the Thomas Divide Trail. I turn right and return to the car via a quiet 1.1 mile downhill on Thomas Divide Trail and then a 1 mile road walk along Tom Branch Road. Another nice workout in the Smokies completed, now it’s off to Anthony’s Pizza in Bryson City for some post-walk fuel. Brooklyn-style pizza and bonus Christmas parade in Bryson City, life is good! Young kids in pajamas were everywhere too waiting with great excitement to ride the Smoky Mountain Railroad’s Polar Express special. I think of the good times waiting on the train with my fast-growing boys. [caption id="attachment_975" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Views in Bryson City"] [/caption] If you’re looking for a short loop that packs a decent punch per mile, this one should do the trick for you. Low elevation Deep Creek is a good bet in the unpredictable Winter months when you never know which areas will be closed due to snow and ice. Low elevation on today’s 6.2 mile loop walk was around 1800’ near the Deep Creek trailhead and high elevation was near 2580’ atop Thomas Ridge on the Thomas Divide Trail. The walk included about 1800’ of overall climbing. For pics of this walk, click the link below: Deep Creek Loop(Opens in new window)

[caption id="attachment_943" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Views of Thomas Ridge"]

[/caption] To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below: Thomas Divide Loop(Opens in new window) 13 mile lollipop walk up Thomas Divide Trail. The walk started and ended on the southern trailhead for the Thomas Divide Trail and included Deeplow Gap Trail and Indian Creek Motor Trail – November 7, 2009 Back up to the Smokies for a Saturday walk, I decided to stay close to base camp and return to the Deep Creek area. Goal for today was another tough lung and leg workout climbing up Thomas Divide Trail, starting at the southern trailhead on dirt Tom Branch Road. (or is it Galbraith Creek Road? The book says Galbraith Creek Road, but the trail signs say Tom Branch Road.) Whatever the case, enter the Deep Creek and drive past the picnic area on your right. Shortly after you pass the picnic area you’ll come to the large parking area on the left for the Deep Creek trails. Don’t pay attention to the sign that says ‘Trailhead Parking’ and instead turn right, crossing Deep Creek on a one lane bridge, and follow the dirt road about a mile to the southern trailhead parking area on your left. Only one other vehicle was there when I arrived on this 33 degree morning. Thomas Divide Trail and the ridge that I would climb today are named for William Holland Thomas, white adopted son of Cherokee Chief Yonaguska. Thomas became the first white Cherokee Chief when his father died in 1839 and was instrumental in helping with the creation of the Qualla reservation for the Eastern Band of the Cherokee Indians. Thomas was also an officer for the Confederacy during the Civil War. Climbing to Deeplow Gap up Thomas Divide Trail [caption id="attachment_937" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Trailhead beside Tom Branch Road"] [/caption] Thomas Divide Trail starts around 2200’ and begins climbing immediately after I pass the gate. Although it is a moderate climb, the trail is a wide and well-graded roadbed and is covered with several inches of crunchy leaf litter. Though I appreciate the good footing after last week’s debacle, it will be next to impossible for me to spot wildlife today due to the noise I’ll make crunching my way uphill through the fresh mat of leaves. The good news about climbing on an chilly Fall morning is it won’t take long to warm up, and that is the case for me as I stop less than a mile up to remove some layers. Before long I reach the 1.1 mile point and the intersection with Stone Pile Gap Trail, a 0.9 mile trail that connects up with the Indian Creek Trail. More on that later. After the intersection the trail walks directly to the left of the National Park boundary, and I hear lots of activity on the private land including chainsaws on the uphill and gunfire later on the return trip. Yep, must be deer season again. A train horn from the Smoky Mountain Railroad also echoes through the valley as the train makes its way to Nantahala Gorge. Trudging uphill on the wide trail, nice views into Indian Creek drainage and the Sunkota Ridge appear to my left and high walls of rhododendron shade the trail from the right. The trees are almost 100% bare now, making it easier to see the views of distant ridges. There are no signs of life Parkside save for the occasional squirrel and crow. After 3.3 miles of non-descript climbing I reach the nice flat gap where Indian Creek Motor Trail comes uphill to meet Thomas Divide Trail. [caption id="attachment_934" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Clingmans Dome would be a constant companion today"] [/caption] Thomas Divide Trail now ducks off the roadbed and jogs sharply right to continue its climb up Thomas Ridge. No more road walking until later today, as the trail narrows on the ridgetop and also becomes more steep. Now I feel the breezes coming up the eastern slopes and also get my first glimpse of Clingmans Dome to the northwest. It’s pretty cool to see the highest point in the Smokies as you walk along a ridgetop. Now I’m really heating up as the trail swings into the direct sunlight of the eastern side of Thomas Ridge and climbs relentlessly up to today’s high point of 4225’. Cresting the ridge I see today’s first hiker, Steve Edwards from Sevierville, and I stop for a chat (and a rest). After a few minutes of conversation Steve looks at me kind of funny and says “are you Old Dan Walking?”. Hey, that’s cool..the first person to recognize me out on the trails, I’m semi-famous! 8) More importantly Steve tells me that he is just three short trails from reaching the Smokies 900 goal. Congratulations in advance Steve! (Steve is a long-time follower of Smoky Scout that found my site through hers, thanks Sharon!) After a nice talk we part and I complete the remaining downhill mile to reach Deeplow Gap. Decision number one…Deeplow Gap Trail [caption id="attachment_936" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Bull elk 106 grazes in Cherokee"] [/caption] Taking a break at peaceful Deeplow Gap I have to make the first of two decisions on which loop I’ll do today. I was thinking about trying a long loop up to Sunkota Ridge, a walk that would complete my remaining miles of Thomas Divide Trail. Probably not the best idea for this time of year though, so I decide on a shorter loop. I begin by heading downhill along the flank of Thomas Ridge on Deeplow Gap Trail. Deeplow Gap Trail heads down into Indian Creek drainage where I’ll have two different choices for completing my loop today. At the top of the trail there are occasional nice views of Clingmans Dome and then looking back toward Thomas Ridge. Later the trail begins to level out and changes character to a more moist, rocky walk through a hemlock forest of several seeps and shallow streams. Downhill feels good but I have to be careful on the rocks, especially considering last week. Soon I reach the Indian Creek Motor Trail where a group of horse riders were stopped to determine which way to go next. I’ll have to do the same. I decide to continue the additional 0.1 miles of Deeplow Gap Trail (or so the sign said, it was actually 0.3 miles) because I remember from my February walk that there was a sitting bench at the Indian Creek Trail intersection. Decision time on the bench [caption id="attachment_939" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Today it would be up and down and up and down"] [/caption] I sit on the bench at the Indian Creek Trail intersection and contemplate the two choices I have for my return trip back to my car. Door #1 would be to return the 0.3 miles up Deeplow Gap Trail and then climb another 1000’ back up Thomas Ridge on the Indian Creek Motor Trail, rejoining Thomas Divide Trail at that intersection I was at earlier today. Door #2 was an easy gradual downhill on Indian Creek Trail and then a return to Thomas Divide Trail via Stone Pile Gap Trail. I’m tired, so I choose the easier door #2. After a few paces downhill the voices in my head keep whispering “dude, you need the work..door #1, door #1, door #1…”. So against my better judgment I whip around and climb the 1000’ up Deeplow Gap Trail and Indian Creek Motor Trail. Indian Creek Motor Trail is a walk along a wide roadbed for an abandoned National Park project to make a motor loop out of Deep Creek. For me it is just another grueling climb, and I shuffle along slowly. The only thing of note today on this trail was one large flat area on the right that had a nice view and a stone pile, probably a former camp of some sort. After 1.8 miles of uphill along Thomas Ridge I finally reach the intersection with Thomas Divide Trail. Relief! Now it would be a long 3.3 miles of downhill to the car. It’s always amazing to me though how quickly the relief of going downhill fades late in the day, particularly if you’re retracing steps you walked earlier in the day. But I decided that I was in no hurry to be out of the Smokies, and even when I’m in the midst of a boring descent I’m thankful to be in the Smokies! Life is good…so I ramble on. Near the end of my walk I notice a cemetery on the right that I walked right by without noticing this morning. I go over and check out the well-kept peaceful hilltop resting place for many early residents of this area. I stand still and just listen to the wind. After that my 13 mile walk for today ends just a few paces away at the now-full parking area. Although today’s walk wasn’t filled with the ‘wow factor’ of some waterfall, stream, or high-mountain ridge walks, I still enjoyed the pleasant woods and the tough workout and of course look forward to my next visit. [caption id="attachment_935" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Little Jarvis only saw 7 years"] [/caption] Low elevation on today’s 13 mile lollipop walk was around 2170’ near the Thomas Divide trailhead and high elevation was near 4225’ atop Thomas Ridge on the Thomas Divide Trail. The walk included about 5050’ of overall climbing. For pics of this walk, click the link below: Thomas Divide Loop(Opens in new window)

[caption id="attachment_913" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Stunning Raven Cliff Falls"]

[/caption] To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below: Raven Cliff Falls Loop in Caesars Head State Park(Opens in new window) 8.4 mile lollipop walk to view gorgeous Raven Cliff Falls in Caesars Head State Park, South Carolina. The walk started and ended on the Raven Cliff Falls Trail and included Gum Gap/Foothills Trail, Naturaland Trail, and Dismal Trail – November 1, 2009 Where do I start with this Sunday’s walk? The perfect weather? The beautiful views? The stunning colors? The spectacular raging creek? The amazing waterfall? The awe-inspiring wall of rock? Sounds a lot like one of my typical Smoky Mountain weekend walks, right? Nope…not this time, because to get all those adjectives on this day I didn’t even leave my home state. Thanks to the Saturday Halloween festivities I would wait for Sunday to walk on ‘Fall Back Weekend’. I appreciated the extra hour due to the end of Daylight Savings Time so I could take advantage of one of those long days, with a ‘drive up-walk-then drive home’ plan. Thanks to the rock slide on I-40 and the fact that I’ve completed almost all of the trails in Cataloochee, the closest Smoky Mountain area to my South Carolina home not impacted by the slide, I chose to stay in my back yard. My choice was the Mountain Bridge Wilderness Area at the very edge of the Blue Ridge escarpment. [caption id="attachment_908" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Gorgeous view of Table Rock Mountain from the overlook"] [/caption] The Mountain Bridge Wilderness Area sits on US 276 at the North Carolina/South Carolina state line and encompasses about 50 miles of trails and two South Carolina State Parks, Caesars Head and Jones Gap. For me to get there meant a drive on one of my favorite routes, SC Hwy 11, also known as the Cherokee Foothills Scenic Highway. This is one beauty of a road, traveling the gorgeous rolling Carolina Piedmont parallel to the front range of the Blue Ridge Mountains. I spent a lot of time traveling this road on weekends in the late ‘80s while in college at Clemson University, probably to put off studying. I was happy to be back this way again as a strong cold front finished rolling through and clearing out the air and the overnight rains. Driving up the mountains on twisty US 276, it was tough not to slip and slide on the wet road covered with a thick layer of fresh fallen leaves. It would be foreshadowing of a tough day on the trail. Around 8:45 AM I reached the closed Visitor Center atop Caesars Head and stepped out to the stunning overlook in 25 mph winds, and immediately felt like I would freeze to death. I’m telling you it was brisk! Raven Cliff Falls Trail and Gum Gap/Foothills Trail [caption id="attachment_915" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Something I\'m not used to as a Smokies walker"] [/caption] I got the idea for today’s walk from author and hiker/blogger extraordinaire Danny (Danielle) Bernstein’s excellent first book Hiking the Carolina Mountains. This book has a plethora of fantastic information on 57 Carolina day hikes, and it includes lots of facts that I would need to get to and complete my walk today. Being spoiled by extremely well documented and well maintained Smokies trails that I could get to and from with my eyes closed, it was nice to have this book to help with an area not so familiar. The first essential information was the location of the Raven Cliff parking area another 1.2 miles north of the Visitor Center. By 9:30 I would have my $2 fee paid and my hiker information sheet filled out and deposited in the box and be on my on my way down the wide carriage path on Raven Cliff Falls Trail. For the lesser-traveled State Park trails it is necessary to fill out an information sheet and deposit the white copy in the box, then put the pink copy in when you return safely at the end of the day. That saves the Rangers from having to come and get you when you don’t return by nightfall. That should’ve been my first warning. Raven Cliff Falls Trail is an extremely popular moderate 2.2 mile walk to a new covered observation deck overlooking the beautiful falls across a gorge. Initially it is a wide path that according to Danny used to carry lodge guests to view the Falls in the early 20th century. At this time in the morning I’m alone on this popular trail. Just after passing a Park maintenance building the trail ducks around a ridge and begins to climb modestly along a ridgeline among oaks, pines, hickory, and sassafras. To the left through the trees are occasional very nice views of the Carolina Piedmont. About a mile in the trail changes character as it switches sharply right and descends through a thick laurel patch on a nice wooden staircase. After a short walk through the tunnel of laurel the trail flattens out and before long reaches the intersection with the Gum Gap/Foothills Trail. Here I see one difference between my Smokies and this State Park, with a full color copy of the entire trail map posted at the intersection complete with a “You Are Here” annotation. Here I take a right and begin to follow the blue-blazed Gum Gap/Foothills Trail around the north side of the falls gorge instead of continuing on Raven Cliff Falls Trail for the remaining few tenths to the observation platform. I figured I would go counterclockwise around the loop instead of Danny’s recommended route of going clockwise. Reason? Well, I figured I would save the highlight of the big Falls view until the end of the day. That decision would very nearly turn out to be costly. (see mistake #2 later) Gum Gap Trail is a mostly level cruise through a dry ridge pine-oak forest. A few tenths in I turn sharply left and begin to follow a muddy jeep road through a forest of white pine. A few streams cross under the road here and I begin to heat up as I walk quickly along the flat road, dodging mud puddles. Now heating up, I stop and drop a layer while listening to the stream tumble under the road. At one low spot in the trail a water diversion channel is filled with yesterday’s rainwater. Before long I reach another full-color map at the intersection with the pink-blazed Naturaland Trail on the left. Nightmare on Naturaland Trail [caption id="attachment_909" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The cable crossing of Matthews Creek"] [/caption] Naturaland Trail travels the south end of the Wilderness Area and crosses the Falls below Raven Cliff. The west end of the trail is a nice fairly gentle climb amongst brilliant fall colors, with views back toward Caesars Head appearing at one point. Here I begin to notice the very loud roar of Matthews Creek, and eventually swing around to the left to parallel it as hemlocks appear on the north facing slopes. The wide creek is really raging, dropping on several large cascades as I begin to walk directly beside it. I sense the Falls are nearby as the water picks up speed. I’m frustrated that there isn’t a good spot to photograph the beautiful roaring creek. Soon I reach the skinny suspension bridge that goes directly over top of Raven Cliff Falls. Wow! Raven Cliff Mountain drops suddenly away as the Falls tumble 400 feet down beneath me. On the opposing ridge are gorgeous Fall colors, from which I will have a direct view to photograph the Falls later today. After a thousand photos I amble across the bouncy and somewhat scary bridge and then stop for a brief lunch of trail mix and water. [caption id="attachment_912" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The suspension bridge from across the gorge"] [/caption] Now it’s time to discuss those mistakes I mentioned earlier. Both would be highlighted on the section of Naturaland Trail I was about to travel, which now abruptly drops about 900 feet in elevation from this point at the suspension bridge to eventually end up at Matthews Creek below. Mistake #1 was when I left home today without my proper hiking gear. All of my gear was safely tucked away at base camp in the Smokies, so I had to walk today totally ill prepared…a real recipe for disaster. Here’s the rest of the recipe:

- One ounce of incorrect footwear

- Two teaspoons of no GPS

- One cup of steep gradient

- One unfamiliar boulder strewn path

- Two bushels of fresh fallen leaves

- One gallon of fresh rainwater

- Three cups of no cell phone reception

- One helping of nearly deserted trail

- Two cups of mud

- One poorly balanced non-hiking bookbag

- A pinch of barely visible trail blazes

- Two liters of no emergency supplies: water treatment stuff, matches, headwear, first aid kit, compass, extra clothing, etc.

- Combine with mistake #2, a downhill on the steepest, rockiest, most leaf-covered trail section

Mix well and bake for about 3 miles. Makes one humble pie. [caption id="attachment_918" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Ladders lend a helping hand on Naturaland Trail"]

[/caption] You get the picture..it definitely wasn’t pretty. I can honestly say two things about this section of the trail. Number one is I am incredibly sore from doing full squats after slipping at least 30 times on the leaf-covered boulders, and number two I am genuinely thankful to be here writing this story today unhurt. I fell hard on a sharp pile of rocks once and thought for sure I broke my tailbone. I have a nice large bruise to show for it, but fortunately missed real injury by a few inches. Combine that with all the previous disaster ingredients and like I said…I’m happy to be unharmed. Learn from my stupidity. Anyway, although this was by far the toughest downhill I’d ever done I guess it wasn’t all bad. At a few points on the trail crews have installed handy ladders to help with the steep sections. One huge highlight just down the trail from the steep section was a 120 foot high semicircular wall of rock called the Cathedral. The Cathedral was composed of sheared-off layers of striated rock all cleanly stacked up like a pile of sheetrock at the neighborhood Home Depot. After this high point though I continued on and had several occasions when I really thought I had missed my turn and was lost. The trail was difficult to follow and slow going thanks to the poor footing, but eventually much to my relief I reached Matthews Creek and my first experience with a thin parallel cable crossing. We’re definitely not in the Smokies anymore Dorothy! No whimpy little footlog bridges here! I am relieved nobody was there to capture my terrified expression as I slinked across Matthews Creek on the skinny cable dangling a few feet above a swift cascade. (bottom cable for your feet , top cable to hang on for dear life!) After I survived I could pause and laugh a bit… Continuing on the trail ducks back into the thick forest of rhododendron. This short flat section takes you across a few feeder streams and eventually to the intersection with the purple-blazed Dismal Trail. The aptly named Dismal Trail and the stunning overlook [caption id="attachment_910" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="View of the falls from the Dismal Trail"] [/caption] I was never so relieved to see a Dismal Trail in all my life! Thank God, 1000 feet straight up, this I could handle! If you’re going in this direction though, the Dismal Trail is aptly named, climbing relentlessly up the front range of the Blue Ridge opposite Raven Cliff Mountain. The highlights of this section were a few big trees, the one spot where I could see Raven Cliff Falls across the ridge, and the fact that it was over. Out of gas mostly due to the nervous energy of the Naturaland downhill, I’m sure I didn’t set any records on this uphill. Soon I let out a big sigh of relief when I saw the backward trail map and the intersection with the trail I started on this morning, Raven Cliff Falls Trail. [caption id="attachment_911" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Raven Cliffs Falls from the observation platform"] [/caption] Just a quick and thankfully flat 0.2 mile spur away was the very nice covered Raven Cliff Falls observation platform. From here I sat with the mass of humanity and took dozens of shots of the gorgeous Falls across the ridge, bragging to everybody that would listen about how I was standing on that faint suspension bridge across the gorge a few hours earlier. It was stellar, and I soon forgot my two mistakes. Forgot them until the next day that is...when my extremely sore quads would remind me. After a nice break I walked the easy 2.2 miles back to the parking area, now busting at the seams with outdoor enthusiasts. I finished the day with an ice cream from the Visitors Center and a few more pictures from the stunning Caesars Head overlook…could it be any better? I love my Smokies like no place else on Earth, but my first real hike in my South Carolina mountain back yard was a real treat, and I’d recommend it to any of you looking for a nice change of pace. Bring your gear with you though, ok?! ..and go buy Danny’s book too! [caption id="attachment_914" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Views into the South Carolina Piedmont"] [/caption] Low elevation on today’s 8.4 mile lollipop walk was around 1900’ at the Dismal Trail/Naturaland Trail intersection and high elevation was near 3100’ on Raven Cliff Falls Trail. According to Danny the walk included about 1950’ of overall climbing. For pics of this walk, click the link below: Raven Cliff Falls Loop in Caesars Head State Park(Opens in new window)

To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below: Rich Mountain Loop in Cades Cove(Opens in new window) 8.5 mile lollipop walk out of the Cades Cove area of the Smokies. The walk started and ended on the Rich Mountain Loop Trail and included Crooked Arm Ridge Trail and Indian Grave Gap Trail – October 24, 2009 If you’re reading this site than you’re probably either thinking about taking up this Smoky Mountain hiking addiction thing or already have, so you’ll know where I’m coming from here. On the day after you decide you’re going to get serious about hiking the Smoky’s trails you immediately make a list, either mentally or physically, of those must-do trails or destinations. I call those my Smokies Hall-of-Fame destinations. The Smokies 900 Club, as in hiking every mile in the Smokies, isn’t practical for everybody, so your list will contain your top priorities. You’ll have an extra little spring in your step when you know you’ll be hitting one of those special places on a hiking outing. Such was the case for me on this late-October Fall color peak season Saturday, and I woke up early without grumbling knowing that I’d be walking one of my second day list destinations, Rich Mountain Loop in spectacular Cades Cove. Cades Cove is a long way from my hiking home base, so it was going to be another 60 mile drive in the morning darkness before I’d be walking today. I was almost relieved that it was dark as I drove winding Laurel Creek Road, because otherwise I would’ve stopped every half mile to take pictures of the beautiful cascades of Laurel Creek with the peak color backdrop. When I reached the Cove around 7:45 AM there already were cars backed up waiting for the gates to open. It was going to be a very busy day in Cades Cove today. Eventually we moved along and I parked beside the covered information stand at the entrance of the loop road. Rich Mountain Loop Trail starts just across the road and after waiting on an already long line of cars I crossed and was off and walking… [caption id="attachment_867" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="A cloudy start in Cades Cove"]

[/caption] Rich Mountain Loop Trail and Crooked Arm Ridge Trail I mentioned that special list of destinations..well typically you’ll want to take extra care in planning a walk to those places. Unless you’re a retired local with lots of days to choose from, you’ll want to try to maximize the Hall-of-Fame experience by picking the right time of year and also by trying to outsmart the finicky Smoky Mountain weather. Today I would bat .500. I got the time of year perfect, with colors at their absolute peak, but I struck out on the weather. I was hopeful that the front that brought rain Friday night would blow through and clear things out, but it didn’t materialize the way I had hoped. Still, with the colors so fantastic it was really hard to complain. God willing I’ll be able to come back someday and improve my batting average. [caption id="attachment_869" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Vibrant Fall colors"] [/caption] The lollipop handle of today’s walk is a flat 0.5 mile stroll along the horse trail portion of Rich Mountain Loop Trail, initially running parallel to the Cades Cove Loop Road and then along beside one of the large maintained fields. The forest colors are already great. Side note: Rich Mountain Loop Trail isn’t a loop at all. You have to include other trails if you want to make a loop out of it, which is exactly what I’ll do today. Anyways, at the back of the field I stop to watch a doe and her fawn graze nervously beside the protection of the forest. Soon there is a rock-hop across Crooked Arm Branch and the intersection with Crooked Arm Ridge Trail. Turning right onto Crooked Arm Ridge Trail to start the loop portion of today’s walk, I begin to ascend up the side of the namesake ridge. A few tenths up the trail on the right is tiny Crooked Arm Falls, where Crooked Arm Branch cascades 25 feet down a sloping ledge on multiple channels. Shortly after I rock-hop the small creek and then stop to shed my top layer. Gearing up for a Fall walk can be tricky, so this time of year take extra precaution. Always make sure you bring layers because although you can really heat up on a climb, a ridge walk or descent later can really chill you to the bone. That would be the case for me later in the day today. [caption id="attachment_868" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Crooked Arm Falls"] [/caption] After the rock-hop the climbing really gets serious as I alternate between east and south-facing slopes amongst the vibrant reds, yellows, and golds with the green of hemlocks and pines mixed in. Here I can begin to see the beautiful colors of opposing ridges, but also notice that that the clouds are still hanging at about 2500 feet. The dry clay trail is seriously rutted in some spots. The climb is tough but I stop often to photography the gorgeous colors. Near the top the trail splits for no apparent reason, one fork going downhill, and one uphill. I’ve climbed enough so I choose the left fork, and both forks come back together a short distance later. A short time later I reach the Indian Grave Gap Trail/Scott Mountain Trail intersection. Scott Mountain Trail travels east over Pinkroot Ridge before going north down Scott Mountain to Schoolhouse Gap. Relieved to be done with the majority of today’s climb, I’ll go left onto Indian Grave Gap Trail. Nice ridge walking on Indian Grave Gap Trail Indian Grave Gap Trail does not have any Indian graves, but it sure has a beautiful forest. Even with the distant views obstructed completely by the fog, I’m constantly wowed by the up-close beauty of the ash and maples as I walk the pleasant ridgetop trail. With much easier walking I begin to really cool down as I travel west along the former Jeep road. This road was formerly used to service the power lines for Cades Cove. To my right is a high wall of rhododendron and to the left is gorgeous forest and what should be distant views. [caption id="attachment_870" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Fog on Indian Grave Gap Trail"] [/caption] I come across two different official markers that signify the northern National Park boundary, the first one to the right of the trail and the second a short distance later to the left, meaning the trail actually crosses the boundary and you walk for a short while technically outside the Park. Before long I reach the first of two intersections, this one in a pleasant gap with Rich Mountain Trail coming in on the right. Rich Mountain Trail travels steeply downhill to one-way Rich Mountain Road. Continuing on I finally reach the intersection with the trail I started on a few hours earlier, Rich Mountain Loop Trail. [caption id="attachment_876" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Views of the Smokies main ridge"] [/caption] Closing the loop down Rich Mountain Loop Trail After a short and chilly break for some PB&J in the clouds, it’s time to close the loop. Now I leave the final 1.1 miles of Indian Grave Gap Trail for another day and head downhill on Rich Mountain Loop Trail. I immediately encounter the first people I’ve seen on the trails, one of several groups day hiking up the popular trail. Most will ask ‘Have you seen any bears?’ and ‘How much longer to the top?’. Nope…no bears today, just a couple deer, a few birds, squirrels, and a ruffled grouse that scared the heck out of me in the fog. 8) As I coast downhill around Leading Ridge the views start to open back up just a bit, and I catch a glimpse here and there of the main Smokies crest and the fields of Cades Cove. Not as nice as they should be but a few views none the less. Further down the trail are a few nice rock-hop crossings of Marthas Branch and soon I reach the flatlands and the back of the John Oliver cabin. [caption id="attachment_874" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The John Oliver cabin in Cades Cove"] [/caption] The John Oliver cabin, a popular stop for auto tourers on the Cades Cove Loop Road, is a busy place today. After a quick look I continue behind the cabin and walk the up-and-down section of the trail that crosses a devastated and ugly lowland hemlock forest. After two nice rock-hop crossings of Harrison Branch I’m back at the lollipop handle, but this time I return to the trailhead along the edge of the open field and am treated to stunning views of the peak color bursting on the main crest. What a perfect ending, and only 8.5 miles of walking means it's early and I've got time, daylight, and energy left for some touristy stuff. After I finish up my walk it takes me more than an hour to drive half way around the Cades Cove Loop Road with the masses to the back section of the Cove. Here I take Forge Creek Road over to my first drive down the one-way Parsons Branch Road, a dirt thrill ride with multiple stream fords that exits the southwest side of the Park. For the first few crossings I have loads of fun blasting through the creeks but then am stuck behind a Subaru whose driver is afraid to get it dirty. Bummer. I crawl in line at 2 mph before exiting the Park in the middle of the famous motorcycle haven known as the ‘Tail of the Dragon’. The return trip is a beautiful one past Fontana and Cheoah Lakes. Later that night I return home via another stunner, the Blue Ridge Parkway, taking in the sunset and peak colors to end another awesome time in God’s Country. I highly recommend a drive up to see the Smoky Mountain color show, and get working on that list while you’re at it! [caption id="attachment_879" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Views on the drive home"] [/caption] Low elevation on today’s 8.5 mile lollipop walk was around 1700’ at the Rich Mountain Loop trailhead and high elevation was just over 3650’ atop Rich Mountain on the Indian Grave Gap Trail. It included just over 2570’ of overall climbing. For pics of this walk, click the link below: Rich Mountain Loop in Cades Cove(Opens in new window)

[caption id="attachment_819" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="View of Charlies Bunion from the AT"]

[/caption] To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below: Smokemont to Newfound Gap(Opens in new window) 13 mile section walk out of the Smokemont area of the Smokies. The walk started at the Smokemont Campground and ended at Newfound Gap and covered Bradley Fork Trail, Cabin Flats Trail, Dry Sluice Gap Trail, and the Appalachian Trail – October 3, 2009 After a two week break I was ready to get back out there on the trails for my first October 2009 walk in the Smokies. Before I get to that...I have a feeling it is going to be a tough Fall and Winter for Friday night drives from my home in South Carolina. This Friday's drive had not one, not two, but three massive traffic jams on I-26 and I-40 thanks to the stimulus roadwork. Talk about overstimulation. I'm not sure why they decided it was a good idea to get all that stuff done on Friday evenings in the mountains in October? Anyways, I made it safe and sound albeit late Friday night. A few hours later I was again up before the sun and selected a long uphill trudge to Newfound Gap starting at the Smokemont Campground for today's walk. The weather report said it supposed to be crystal clear, cool, Chamber of Commerce weather so I thought a walk to the high country to see some views would be a good idea. In order to accomplish today's objective I would have to do something I had only done once before, hitch a ride to the trailhead. So after putting on my fleece coat for the first time since May I headed out the door and drove up to chilly Newfound Gap to leave the car. The change is definitely here, it's Fall in the Smokies and who doesn't love that?! Goal for today…a 3000 foot climb to Charlies Bunion With the aforementioned great weather I decided that the popular Smoky Mountain hotspot Charlies Bunion would be today’s ultimate goal. There are several ways to get there, with the most popular option being an 8 mile out-and-back along the Appalachian Trail out of Newfound Gap. It seems I prefer the less typical options. In June 2008, my second month of walking the Smokies, I attempted a walk up to the Bunion from Kephart Prong and had to turn back due to exhaustion and lack of water. I came back the next week with more water and backup water tablets and completed the tough 12 mile out-and-back. Now with a year and a half and 400 miles of Smokies walking experience behind me, I decided to try an even more difficult trek starting further downhill at the Bradley Fork Trail in Smokemont Campground. After dropping my car at Newfound Gap around 7:30 AM, I took off down Newfound Gap Road intent on catching a ride for the 12 miles back down the mountain to Smokemont. Normally I would never consider doing this, but it is legal and fairly common in the Smokies for hikers looking for an alternative to pricey shuttles. There wasn't much traffic this morning, but before long Ed from Knoxville saved the day for me. Thanks Ed! Ed is a member of the Smoky Mountain Hiking Club and was on his way to Robbinsville to work on the Appalachian Trail. Thanks on that count too Ed!! Ed graciously dropped me at Smokemont and I quickly walked through the nearly empty campground to the Bradley Fork trailhead to start my climb to the Gap. [caption id="attachment_814" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="A cascade a cavern on Bradley Fork"] [/caption] Climbing up Bradley Fork Trail and Cabin Flats Trail You have two choices to start your walk on Bradley Fork Trail, one being close to Newfound Gap Road and Luftee Baptist Church and the other being at the back end of the campground. Today I would start at the back of the campground. There is a large parking area there for the many hikers of the array of trails in the area, and today it was pretty full already. Bradley Fork Trail is a pleasant road walk beside the trail’s large namesake stream, with the lower 4 mile section climbing only modestly. It was the site of thriving communities, originally the Cherokee and then European settlers and eventually the Champion Fibre logging company. This would be my fifth visit to the trail and I would be perfectly happy with fifteen more visits, because the gentle grade and nice streamside walking won’t get old even though I will. There are horse trail intersections along the way so the going can get pretty muddy in some spots, so it didn’t take long to introduce my new pair of Merrells to the famous Smokies mud. After more than 400 miles of Smokies trails I finally decided to retire my original set of boots. I’m not sure what the criteria is for retiring hiking boots, but even though my old ones looked fine my feet were increasing sore when I finished up a walk, so I thought I’d try the padding of the new ones. Walking up the trail I eventually come to the Chasteen Creek trail intersection, which heads east uphill to Hughes Ridge and passes Chasteen Creek Cascades, campsite 50, and campsite 48 along the way. I’ve done part of that trail and will finish it another day. I continue on and stop a short while later at the intersection with Smokemont Loop Trail. This trail makes a half-loop and returns to the campground, a popular 6 mile day hike. I’m beginning to warm up now so off comes the two of my three top layers. It is a shaping up to be a glorious Fall day. [caption id="attachment_815" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Bradley Fork"] [/caption] The section of Bradley Fork Trail beyond the intersection with the Smokemont Loop is the most scenic, and I stop often for pictures of the tumbling creek. After about 4 miles I reach the traffic circle where the road portion of the walk ends. Here I leave Bradley Fork Trail behind as it makes a sharp right and climbs around Long Ridge to Hughes Ridge in another 3.3 miles. Again, another segment for another day. I continue to the left on a short 0.5 mile segment of Cabin Flats Trail, which crosses a scenic but budget overkill trestle bridge and climbs away from Bradley Fork, eventually coming to the intersection with Dry Sluice Gap Trail. From here 0.6 level miles to the right is the popular Cabin Flats campsite, a.k.a. campsite #49. Being a glutton for punishment, instead I will go left, climbing another 2500’ up Dry Sluice Gap Trail to the intersection with the Appalachian Trail at Dry Sluice Gap. Now the real climbing begins on Dry Sluice Gap Trail The climbing begins immediately after leaving the intersection with Cabin Flats Trail as the trail skirts the side of Richland Mountain. There are several creek crossings here of Tennessee Branch, some on footlogs and some not. Although none of the crossings are difficult, some are wide and the creeks are running high after rains yesterday and also a welcome wet Summer, so it is inevitable that I will test the ‘waterproof’ label on the side of my new boots. This section has many large trees…basswoods, oaks, silverbells, and poplars. Somehow this short section along Tennessee Branch escaped the loggers, allowing for a rare example of old-growth on the southern side of the Smokies for today’s hikers. Late-season wildflowers abound in this pleasant, moist forest as well. [caption id="attachment_817" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Icewater Springs shelter across the ridge"] [/caption] After all the stream crossings the trail continues to climb steeply up the side of Richland Mountain. Now I slow down considerably and am passed up by a few people, including a young couple with full packs but no particular place to go. They plan to stay at Cabin Flats, but are just out exploring for the rest of the day. I recommend Charlies Bunion for their endpoint and they blaze their way on ahead of me, easily leaving me in the dust. Ready to give up and just lay down and die as I climb into the high elevation forests, I’m relieved to finally reach the intersection with Grassy Branch Trail and a chance to stop for a rest. I have been here before on last year’s 12 miler out-and-back to the Bunion from Kephart Prong. The 2.9 miles I’d just climbed on Dry Sluice Gap Trail would be the majority of my new miles for today, most of the other 10+ miles being repeats. Despite the tough climb I quickly cool down in the early fall chill, so I grab a spot in the bright sun for a rest. Here I sit down with a nice church group that have come up the trail shortly after me. Even after that stiff climb, the kids still have the energy to climb around on trees while the adults of the group prepare a gourmet lunch…ah youth. 8) [caption id="attachment_816" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Views of Mount LeConte and Charlies Bunion from Dry Sluice Gap Trail"] [/caption] After a short rest and some nice conversation I climb the remaining 1.3 miles into the spruce-fir forest. Views of the Smoky’s crest begin to appear on the left and the Balsams begin to appear on the right. Thankfully I begin to top out at about 5700’, and walking on the bed of fraser needles in the cool high elevations is noticeably pleasant. It is something that everyone should experience. Hobblebush are now in their full burgundy color and the brilliant red berries of the mountain ash trees stand out in stark contrast to the surrounding hues. Life is good, and thank the Lord I am in it. A short downhill brings me across a skinny ridge and into stunning clear views to the west of Clingmans Dome, Mount LeConte, Charlies Bunion, Mount Ambler, and Mount Kephart. Wow! Miles across the ridge I can clearly see Icewater Springs shelter standing out amongst the spruce trees. After snapping some pictures I continue on and shortly reach the intersection with Appalachian Trail at Dry Sluice Gap. Charlie Bunion and the Appalachian Trail with lot of nice folks Looking north into Tennessee from Dry Sluice Gap the mountains seem to fall sharply away into oblivion. The north face is much more rugged in appearance, with steep drop-offs that fall into the Porters Creek drainage allowing for unobstructed views for miles north. Again I snap a few pictures and soon a signing young hiker arrives at the junction from the north with full beard and headphones on, signs of someone on a longer trek than I am on. So I inquire if he is thru-hiking and indeed he is. This nice young man, trail named Strider, has blazed his way southbound on the Appalachian Trail all the way from Maine. I’ve met a lot of northbound AT thru-hikers before, but I don’t recall meeting any southbounders yet, so I’m calling Strider the first. His journey began on May 31st and after conversing with him it was interesting to learn that he was not really weary from the nearly 2000 miles he’s traveled so far, but rather he was actually bumming that journey is almost over. He didn’t linger long though, and I imagine it’s because he knew he was only about 4 miles from Newfound Gap, a place where many thru-hikers hitch a ride down to Gatlinburg for a couple of ‘zero-days’, a real shower, and some mass quantities of grub. [caption id="attachment_818" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Southern views from the AT down Kephart Prong drainage"] [/caption] Strider blazes out of sight and I start my much slower walk west on the Appalachian Trail for the 4.4 mile trek back to Newfound Gap. Unfortunately the return trip will feature another big climb over Mount Ambler, and I wonder if I’ll have the energy at this point. Just before reaching the intersection with the Charlies Bunion side trail incredible views open up to the south looking down what I assume is Richland Mountain and the Kephart Prong valley. The Bunion side trail is only a few tenths from Dry Sluice Gap, so I step out onto the skinny ridge with sheer drops and breathtaking views and out on Charlies Bunion. As expected on a beautiful day like today there is a very large crowd at the Bunion resting all over the rocks and on top of the Bunion itself. Here I meet a big group of very enjoyable Leukemia and Lymphoma Society team in training hikers. This group is all either blood cancer survivors or people that hike for the memory or support of someone lost or currently fighting a blood cancer, raising funds for research. Visit www.teamintraining.org to find out more about this inspiring cause. At the Bunion we each pass cameras around and climb over the rocks so we can all get ‘I was there’ shots. Last year when I was at the Bunion it was rainy so I had no idea the views were this grand. The big group heads on their way back and I stay and have lunch and admire the vast 180 degree views for a while. After awhile I resume the trek to Newfound Gap, dreading the climb up to Icewater Springs shelter. The 0.9 mile section from Charlies Bunion to Icewater Springs shelter will be the only other unique mileage I will have on today’s walk. It is a nice walk through the spruce-fir forest but at this point I don’t really appreciate the fact that it is a big climb. Soon I reach the shelter and stop for a minute there. From here there is just a bit more climbing over the top of Mount Ambler and then all downhill back to Newfound Gap. I catch back up the team in training hikers and decide to walk with them the rest of the way back to the Gap, enjoying great conversation with many of them as we cruise along. Much to all of our relief we reach bustling Newfound Gap at 6 PM, take another group shot and part ways. I linger at the Gap and enjoy the warm sun and cool breezes…ah, another successful walk in the Smokies filled with stunning morning views, beautiful creeks, a tough climb to more stunning afternoon views, and a lot of great people. [caption id="attachment_826" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The inspirational people from the Leukemia Society team in training group "] [/caption] Low elevation on today’s 13 mile section walk was around 2250’ at the Bradley Fork trailhead and high elevation was just over 6100’ atop Mount Ambler on the Appalachian Trail. It included just over 5000’ of overall climbing. For pics of this walk, click the link below: Smokemont to Newfound Gap(Opens in new window)

[caption id="attachment_786" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Time to quit and go home?"]

[/caption] To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below: Pretty Hollow Gap Loop(Opens in new window) 16.1 mile loop walk out of the Cataloochee area of the Smokies. The loop started and ended at Pretty Hollow Gap Trail and covered Mount Sterling Ridge Trail, Mount Sterling Trail, Long Bunk Trail, and Little Cataloochee Trail – September 12, 2009 When the alarm blazed in the pitch darkness of this cool mid-September morning, I dragged myself up and began to get ready for the day feeling much like Forrest Gump must have felt after his fifth cross-country run…. I was tired. I wanted to go home. Weekend after weekend of driving here and driving there, walking here and walking there was taking a toll. My stats showed I’d covered almost 200 miles so far this year on mainly marathon Saturday day-hikes. I’d climbed more than 60,000 feet. That’s more than 11 miles of vertical ascension. If I stacked up this year’s walks on top of each other I’d cruise past the jet airliners that cross the country as I climbed well into the stratosphere. I could almost shake hands with Saint Peter. I thought very seriously about pulling a Forrest and just stopping and saying to the world “I’m tired….I wanna go home”. But this obsession to walk is not just about being immersed in the beauty of my beloved Smoky Mountains. For me, it is also very much about health. Even though it may be tough to see from looking at me I can definitely feel the cardiovascular benefits of the 22+ vertical miles of climbing since May of 2008. Of course, anyone else in their right mind would forgo the hefty cost and time penalty I’m paying driving and walking and just get the same benefit from a health club stair-climber….. But I’ve never been accused of being in my right mind. Ok, so maybe it is about being immersed in the beauty of my beloved Smoky Mountains. 8) [caption id="attachment_791" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The elk herd of Cataloochee grazes in the morning"] [/caption] Anyway…I decided to work through my Forrest issue, suck it up and just keep walking. So you know the drill…out the door, drive, etc. Destination today, Cataloochee! The Cataloochee area of the Smokies is one sure-fire cure for the ‘I don’t feel like walking anymore’ blues. Before I reach my starting point at the Pretty Hollow Gap trailhead I’m reminded once again of why I love this hobby so much. Stunning views from the Blue Ridge Parkway and of the Cataloochee Valley, two magnificent bull elk, another large herd of elk, a huge flock of wild turkey….I guess I can do this ONE more time. Fantastic Cataloochee and the climb up Pretty Hollow Gap Trail The Cataloochee area was the Smoky’s most populous area when the National Park Service started buying property to create the National Park early in the twentieth century. As a result, many families were displaced and they left behind historic structures of all different types. Here there are terrific examples of log and early milled-lumber home construction, large historic churches, cemeteries, schoolhouses, and rock walls and foundations. Adding to the enjoyment is the aforementioned abundance of wildlife, scenic mountain and meadow vistas, numerous picturesque creeks, and a fair share of old-growth forest featuring big trees. It is no wonder why the crowds would be as thick as a Smoky Mountain forest when I returned from my tough walk later in the day. [caption id="attachment_781" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Pretty Hollow Creek"] [/caption] By 8:30 AM I'd driven the long, winding 13.3 mile access road from US 276 to Cataloochee and as Forrest would say 'I was walking'. Pretty Hollow Gap Trail starts beside Palmer Creek and one of the historic buildings, the Beech Grove Schoolhouse, built in 1901. The innocent looking horse trail will eventually climb nearly 2500’ on the way up to Pretty Hollow Gap, but at the start I enjoy the tame little road walk that quickly passes two busy horse camps on the right as it follows Palmer Creek upstream. A short 0.8 miles up the trail I pass the intersection with the Little Cataloochee trailhead on the right, which will be my return route this afternoon. I continue to the left and eventually climb a bit for nice views above the creek before reaching the Palmer Creek trailhead after another 0.8 miles. Just before the intersection I spook three good sized white-tail deer that were drinking from Palmer Creek. They bound off across the trail and out of sight. [caption id="attachment_795" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Palmer Creek"] [/caption] After the intersection I leave Palmer Creek behind and begin a climb beside one of its tributaries, Pretty Hollow Creek, on a more typical trail. The climb is not too tough at this point, but after a couple of miles I cross the creek on a nice footlog and the trail immediately becomes more steep and rocky. From here the only thing I remember is wondering with each bend in the trail why I haven’t reached Pretty Hollow Gap yet. It has to be around the next bend…ok, maybe the next one…ok, maybe the next one….ok…Finally, I reach 5179’ Pretty Hollow Gap and a chance for a rest and a quick snack before the next 700’ climb along Mount Sterling Ridge Trail to the intersection with the Mount Sterling Trail. I was here at this Gap in early June on my 20.4 mile marathon walk from Beech Gap to Mount Sterling. Mount Sterling Ridge Trail and Mount Sterling Trail After leaving Pretty Hollow Gap I start the immediate climb up the 1.4 mile section of Mount Sterling Ridge Trail that connects with the Mount Sterling Trail. I’m surprised at the overgrowth as I trudge through the wet coneflower and white snakeroot that hide most of the trail. Immediately my socks and pants are soaked and the trail, unable to get sunlight, is thick with mud. Being typically spoiled on my Smokies walks by outstanding trail maintenance, I wonder why this trail is so overdue for cleanup, especially given the fact that it is probably heavily traveled. Nevertheless the forest is stunning as usual, with tall red spruce dominating both sides of the climb. Before long I complete the tough uphill and reach the highest elevation of my walk today at the intersection with the Mount Sterling Trail. [caption id="attachment_782" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Spruce-fir on Mount Sterling Ridge Trail"] [/caption] After talking with some friendly day-hikers resting at the intersection, I survey the conditions and decide to skip the 0.4 mile walk over to the Mount Sterling summit and tower. I had almost 10 miles to go plus a 3 hour drive back to South Carolina in front of me, so no time for an extra 0.8 miles to see the clouded-in tower I saw back in June. I started my return trip downhill on Mount Sterling Trail, which turned out to be a trail without much going for it when traveling in this direction. It was steep and rocky, and the only highlight was a couple of small clearings to see the views, which weren’t great today. Soon I reach the intersection with Long Bunk Trail. The little gap where Mount Sterling Trail and Long Bunk Trail intersect is another one of those decision points for you 900 mile club seekers out there. That’s because Mount Sterling Trail continues 0.5 mile down the mountain to Mount Sterling Gap at the Park boundary. Yep, it’s officially part of trail and if you want to be in ‘the club’ it counts. As for me, I decided that if in a hundred years from now it is really important for me to say I’ve completed all the trails in the Smokies I’ll come back and jog the 0.5 miles out and 0.5 miles back from Mount Sterling Gap. At this point in my walking life, it doesn’t really matter…so I leave the spur behind and continue my loop on the Long Bunk Trail. Long Bunk Trail Long Bunk Trail is long and bunky…whatever that means. 3.6 miles long. I leave my beloved spruce-fir forest behind as I descend. The highlights of this trail were the stream crossings of Corral Branch and Dude Branch, tributaries of Woody Creek, and the big trees. The trail is mostly descending which is much appreciated this late in the walk. One crossing contained a really nice example of a fallen tree right beside the trail that played nurse to new growth of ferns, moss, beech, and maple trees. Towards the end of the trail I pass the Hannah Cemetery, one of the few cemeteries I’ve come across in the Smokies that is fenced in. The cemetery is also in much better condition than many I’ve seen, with what looks like relatively recent decorations of flowers and ribbons. Just a short while later I reach the intersection with the Little Cataloochee Trail. Here another short spur connects the trail to Old NC 284. Again, that mile will have to wait for another day when it becomes important to me. Little Cataloochee Trail – What’s this, another climb?! [caption id="attachment_783" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Little Cataloochee Church"] [/caption] After almost 400 miles of walking in the Smokies you’d think I’d learn by now to check the darn elevation profile BEFORE I decide to tackle a big loop walk. Nah…how bad could it be? I know I’m climbing up nearly to Mount Sterling in the morning so I have to just be cruising downhill in the afternoon, right? …Yeah, right…way to go Ace. Somewhere about halfway down Long Bunk Trail I decided to take a gander at the old trail handbook and low and behold…Somebody stuck a darn mountain ridge perpendicular to the trail and I’m facing a 900’ climb on Little Cataloochee Trail near day’s end!! Ugh! Now 900’ doesn’t sound like much and it probably isn’t for most folks, but for me climbing 900’ after already walking 15 miles is not my idea of happy ending. Fortunately Little Cataloochee Trail has some historic highlights that take one’s mind off one’s troubles. These highlights include the Hannah Cabin, Little Cataloochee Church, and the Cook Cabin. The cabins are excellent log home specimens, complete with windows. The church is stunning also, but I didn’t explore around those areas much thanks to the long drive I was facing. There is so much history here and the area definitely deserves a slower-paced visit, but that will have to be another day. The first section of Little Cataloochee Trail is primarily an uphill road walk, which normally isn’t ideal but at the end of the long day my legs and feet appreciated not having to step over big rocks and roots. After the Cook Cabin, however, things got tougher. I must have set a land speed record for slowest ascent as I trudged up and over Davidson Gap. I definitely thanked the Lord on this one when I saw the top of the hill. Near the top was the really unusual sight of a large stone wall…I can’t imagine building a stone wall this size (or any size) this far up here away from everything. These mountain folk were a tough breed. [caption id="attachment_784" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The Cook Cabin"] [/caption] After Davidson Gap I cruised downhill and through the several rock-hop crossings of Davidson Creek and thick mud to the intersection of Pretty Hollow Gap Trail. From there, just 0.8 miles of familiar ground to that typical relieved feeling of seeing the car. Leaving Cataloochee the elk show was phenomenal, with the two huge bull elk that were grazing way back in the fields this morning now just a couple of feet of the road as if to pose for pictures. Cataloochee is a tough place to leave, and I’m really glad I decided not to stop walking today. [caption id="attachment_785" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="A big bull in Cataloochee Valley"] [/caption] Low elevation on today’s 16.1 mile loop walk was around 2750’ at the parking area beside Palmer Creek and high elevation was around 5700’ at the Mount Sterling Ridge Trail/Mount Sterling Trail intersection. Today’s walk included lots of wildlife and almost 5400’ of overall climbing. ‘I’m tired…I wanna go home’. For pics of this walk, click the link below: Pretty Hollow Gap Loop(Opens in new window)

[caption id="attachment_755" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Getting ready to roll onto Kephart Prong Trail"]

[/caption] To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below: Kephart Prong Trail(Opens in new window) 4 mile out-and-back walk to the Kephart backcountry shelter along Kephart Prong Trail – September 6, 2009 Labor Day weekend meant a break from my normal hiking schedule to enjoy some good old-fashioned camping with the family. The campfires, smores, and relaxation were very welcome, as was finally being able to sleep past 5 AM on a weekend Saturday. But we did take a few hours Sunday to enjoy a short streamside walk through the Smokies on an old friend, the Kephart Prong Trail. Kephart Prong Trail was the trail that started this walking obsession for me back in May of 2008, and it would be my fifth visit. On each of my previous walks I thought to myself about how the family would really enjoy this gem of a trail. So the cloudy and damp pre-Labor Day Sunday was a perfect opportunity to introduce my boys to the trail I’ve enjoyed so much again and again and again. (and again) Relics of the past on Kephart Prong Trail Kephart Prong Trail is a short but pleasant walk through thick mid-elevation forest and following its namesake creek up to the Kephart shelter, one of only three backcountry shelters that are not the Appalachian Trail. Along the way this trail showcases relics from 1930’s-era Civilian Conservation Corps camp that bordered the Oconaluftee River as well as the railroads that carried logging trains up and down the mountains in the pre-Park days. Four terrific examples of original CCC footlog bridges crossing high above Kephart Prong add to the enjoyment of this trail. [caption id="attachment_756" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The boys check out the old CCC camp water fountain"] [/caption] We were unsure that we’d get a walk in on the Sunday before Labor Day because some pesky showers were threatening to wash out the day. But around lunchtime it was evident that the showers would not be heavy, so we packed up and headed out with the thought of walking in the Deep Creek area. We made a quick plan change however once we saw the ridiculous traffic snarls in Cherokee, and instead drove directly into the Smokies and up Newfound Gap Road to the trailhead just a few miles north of the Smokemont area. The boys were ready to roll with pockets filled with trail fuel and I had an easy time with my lighter than usual pack due to the short trail. I typically carry way more than I need, but on this trail I lightened up the load and it was a welcome change. [caption id="attachment_757" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The boys check out the chimney at the old CCC camp"] [/caption] The boys very much enjoyed wandering through the old CCC camp that is just a short distance up from the trailhead. Here we explored the old chimney, pump, camp sign, water fountain, and various other rockwork left behind when the camp was abandoned. Shortly after the first of four nice footlog crossings takes us over scenic Kephart Prong. The boys are not sure they like the high, rickety crossings, so on the return trip they decide to just plunge through the sometimes knee-high but tame creek rather than using the crossings. From the first crossing the trail becomes a wide Jeep road, with nice views of the many cascades of Kephart Prong below the trail to the right. Nick explores and old cistern further up the trail on the left. After the second crossing the trail becomes much more rocky before finally narrowing and steepening a bit near the shelter. At the third crossing old railroad ties are visible to the left, remnants of the former logging operations that took all of the old-growth out of this area. The damp forest is thick with ferns, moss, and rhododendron, but unfortunately there are many large standing-dead hemlocks. [caption id="attachment_762" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Thomas at Kephart shelter for the first time"] [/caption] The trail travels uphill the entire distance and eventually gains about 820’, so it was a nice little workout for the boys. Before long they are asking the inevitable ‘are we there yet’, so I give Thomas GPS duty to keep his mind off the uphill trudge. But it doesn’t take long before we reach the Kephart shelter, a nice small backcountry shelter that has been renovated to the new open style. Here we talk with several folks staying the night who turn out to be from the Columbia area as well…small world. I fill them in on the opening weekend college football scores and they appreciate the news from the ‘outside world’. Two Appalachian Trail connector trails converge here, Sweat Heifer Creek Trail and Grassy Branch Trail, so this shelter is often an overnight spot for folks doing a popular AT loop out of Newfound Gap. I completed those connector trails, both in the uphill direction, last Summer. Kephart Prong to Grassy Branch to Dry Sluice Gap to Charlies Bunion and back was a memorable and tough 12 mile day-hike for me last year. After a quick break at the shelter and a little bit of playing in the creek the boys and I return back the way we came. The boys are thrilled with how easy the return trip is compared to the uphill trek and as a result they do a lot more talking and looking around. After big fun sloshing through the creek crossings we complete the trail in short order to round out another memorable day in the Smokies on an old favorite trail. [caption id="attachment_758" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Kephart Prong"] [/caption] Low elevation on today’s 4 mile walk was around 2700’ at the parking area on Newfound Gap Road and high elevation was around 3500’ at the Kephart backcountry shelter. For pics of this walk, click the link below: Kephart Prong Trail(Opens in new window)

[caption id="attachment_731" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Ramsey Cascades"]

[/caption] To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below: Ramsey Cascades Trail(Opens in new window) 8 mile out-and-back walk to the Ramsey Cascades along Ramsey Cascades Trail – August 29, 2009 [caption id="attachment_723" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Another gorgeous sunrise in the Smokies"] [/caption] Ok, the West is interesting and grand..but give me my Smokies please! Thankfully back in town after a short trip to the Left Coast, it was time to do some climbing again back in familiar territory. Today would be my first visit to the pretty Greenbrier area on the Smoky’s north side just east of Gatlinburg. Those that have followed my site for a while know the drill well….drive, sleep, out the door before sunrise, drive again, “hey an elk”, “hey … turkey”, “WOW, look at that sunrise”, over the mountains, through sleeping Gatlinburg, up the long entrance road, and on the trail before 8:15 AM. Today’s destination is another one of those overall top-10 Smoky destinations, the Ramsey Cascades. The Ramsey Cascades are the Smoky’s highest elevation ‘waterfall’ accessible by trail. (huh, what about unofficial Flat Creek Falls?) The only way to get there is via the short (4 miles one way) but challenging Ramsey Cascades Trail, which treats you to a gain of more than 2100’ of elevation from the parking area. This is my kind of trail, short, sweet, busting your lungs with a steep climb at times, parading you through old-growth, and providing you with a grand payoff at trail’s end. Oh yeah, and then letting you walk downhill all the way home. One word for this trail..NICE! Climbing up Ramsey Cascades Trail [caption id="attachment_733" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Middle Prong of the Little Pigeon River"] [/caption] Ramsey Cascades Trail travels due east and uphill along Ramsey Prong, between Greenbrier Pinnacle and Pinnacle Lead on the north and Guyot Spur on the south. These are finger ridges of the main Smokies crest that branch off from the main crest between 6370' Old Black and 6621' Mount Guyot. Ramsey Cascades trailhead is about 5 miles up the Greenbrier entrance road as it travels beside the wide and rocky Little Pigeon River. There is no camping here but you do pass a Ranger Station about 1 mile up the road and a small picnic area about 3 miles up. Here you take a quick left and cross the Little Pigeon River on a narrow bridge, following a gravel road through thick forest until you reach the parking area beside the Middle Prong of the Little Pigeon River a short time later. Two early risers have beaten me to the trail today, and later when I return around 2 PM the parking lot would be full to capacity. This pretty trail and cascade are popular and very close to crowded Gatlinburg, so if you come don’t expect a lot of solitude. In fact, this is one of those trails where it’s tough to even find a spot for a ‘trail break’. 8) Don’t let that deter you though, because the payoff is worth the walk. About 50 yards from the trailhead the trail takes a sharp left and crosses Middle Prong on a sturdy footbridge. Immediately I’m treated to a prelude of things to come, with a nice section of cascades tumbling down the mountains just to my right. I can tell I’ll be taking a lot of pictures again today. Just a few steps later I’m stunned at the site of giant boulders on the left, with one playing host to its own little forest that grows out the top. The first part of the trail travels uphill along a wide gravel path suitable for smaller Park maintenance vehicles. The forest is mixed hardwood, fraser magnolia, and dying hemlock, having been logged before the Park was established. At the 1.5 mile mark a traffic circle signals the end of the gravel road walk. The next 2.5 miles will be more of a ‘real’ trail. Tunnels and old growth [caption id="attachment_726" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The biggest of the big poplars along the trail"] [/caption] Just after the traffic circle the trail disappears into a very cool dark tunnel of rhododendron. The tunnel travels beside Ramsey Prong now and I notice what seems to be an increase in steepness. Not too long after a high, wide footlog takes me across Ramsey Prong and I stop to take some pictures of the deep green pools. After a short rest I climb again, coming close to the creek as the trail swings around. Shortly after, I begin to enter the largest stand of old-growth forest in the Smokies. The trail flattens momentarily as it swings away from the creek and I see the first two of the big old-growth poplars standing like sentinels with the trail crossing between. They are impressive, but just around the corner is an even bigger monster poplar. I guess those first two sentinels were guarding the queen. A tree that has survived in these harsh lands for this long deserves to have its picture taken…so I stop and oblige. Further up are more big trees, including some near record-sized silverbells. On up the trail just a bit is my favorite footlog to date. This new-looking nice two-section bridge zig-zags across Ramsey Prong with the two sections coming together atop of a boulder mid-stream. In fact, time to take an opportunity to also give kudos to the workers that installed very helpful stone steps in many spots on the trail. Without those steps some of the steep sections would be a real nightmare to traverse. [caption id="attachment_727" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="A cool crossing of Ramsey Prong"] [/caption] Reaching Ramsey Cascades Yo Adrian, after the crossing this trail really gets ‘Rocky’. Rocky and STEEP. Huff, puff, huff, puff…I know I hear a waterfall, where is it? Thankfully the cascades soon come into partial view, but first I deal with a tricky crossing. Fortunately the water is not too high today so I make it across without much difficulty. My first real look at the Ramsey Cascades brings that typical outcome as brain tells mouth to go WOW! Ok, so it’s not officially a waterfall, but in my book the Ramsey Cascades immediately supplant all other waterfalls I’ve seen in the Smokies as my new favorite. Water that started as a trickle high up on the Appalachian Trail at 6621' Mount Guyot now tumbles 100 feet down from a wide stone ridge across several platforms and the result is simply gorgeous. I sit and gawk at the plunging water for a while and enjoy the seemingly 10 degree temperature drop and constant cool breeze. I watch the big spiders hanging over the creek and the little red squirrels that are scurrying about looking for handouts. After talking with other day-hikers and taking scads of pictures I load up and head back the way I came up. The return trip is almost exclusively downhill, with a stop for a while to talk to Wayne from Knoxville. Wayne walks hundreds of miles a year around the Smokies, and I enjoy the lengthy chat with him. After we part I coast into the parking area happy to finally be able to finish a trail many hours before sunset. If it were up to me all day-hikes would be 8 miles. (Eight is enough, right? 8) ) As always I thoroughly enjoyed another great day walking around my favorite familiar territory. [caption id="attachment_730" align="aligncenter" width="225" caption="Old Dan at Ramsey Cascades"] [/caption] Low elevation on today’s 8 mile walk was around 2100’ at the parking area and high elevation was around 4200’ at the Ramsey Cascades. All around the Smokies are signs that Summer 2009, and the heat and humidity that go with it, is about to be history. I will welcome the upcoming change to the cool, clear days of Fall. [caption id="attachment_732" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Fall is coming and I\'m ready for it"] [/caption] For pics of this walk, click the link below: Ramsey Cascades Trail(Opens in new window)