Old Dan Walking

To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below:

Table Rock Summit Trail(Opens in new window)

7.2 mile out-and-back walk to the summit of South Carolina’s awesome Table Rock mountain. The walk started and ended at the trailhead at the Table Rock State Park Nature Center – November 20, 2010

Courtesy of www.dictionary.com:

es·carp·ment [ih-skahrp-muh nt]

–noun

1.

Geology. a long, precipitous, clifflike ridge of land, rock, or the like, commonly formed by faulting or fracturing of the earth's crust.

 

I’m thinking that I might need to bring the scientists from Discovery Channel, National Geographic, or even TruTV out to my home in South Carolina soon to do some research. A strange vortex seems to have invaded my home and had the effect of shrinking all of my pants by a size. Further proof of this phenomenon is the fact that I’ve spent a lot more time at home in past couple of months, and it seems the vortex had no impact in prior months when I was hiking in the mountains more often.  Only hard science can explain this strange truth.   

I didn’t want to take any chances, so I decided to get back to the mountains for a Saturday walk in the much safer mountains. Sleeping in and shorter daylight hours meant I had to confine my walk to a closer location and shorter trail, so I decided to go back to my beloved Upstate and visit the impressive monadnock of Table Rock mountain. To get there required another beautiful morning drive on the South Carolina Scenic Highway, a.k.a. SC Hwy 11..life is good. I pulled into the already stuffed parking lot next to Pinnacle Lake and crossed the road to the Table Rock Nature Center, site of the main trailhead for all of the Park’s trails.

Climbing with the crowds

The Table Rock Trail starts on a wooden walkway behind the Nature Center and is initially paved. I’m at around 1200’ in elevation. The area is picturesque with Carrick Creek flowing down into Pinnacle Lake across large boulders. Just a few feet up the trail on the right is a nice cascade and clear pool on the right, and an area where the creek cuts under an impressive deep ledge that seems to be holding up the entire mountainside. Some day that will collapse and create quite a slide. After a sturdy bridge crossing of Carrick Creek the pavement disappears and the climbing begins through a colorful pine/oak forest. The initial climb is not too steep and the forest is still hanging on to the yellows and red colors of late-Autumn.

In short order I reach the intersection with a conglomeration of trails that bear off to the left. If you go that direction, you can travel the western section of the Park, eventually reaching 3425’ Pinnacle Mountain. This section provides several options for long (11+ mile) lollipop hikes to the Table Rock summit, but if you decide to take on those trails plan for a slower pace than you would normally walk. There are two reasons for this, one being the many view spots that you’ll want to stop and spend time at, and the other being the slower pace due to having to navigate steep sections of trail.

I continue to the right up the red-blazed Table Rock Trail, and here the going gets steep. Kudos to the excellent job by the 1933 Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) trail architects, as despite the steep climb in many spots the rock staircases and steps carved directly into the mountain were all perfectly placed. After two nice bridged crossings of Green Creek, I reach the intersection with the green-blazed Carrick Creek Trail, which goes off to the west. You can use that trail to make a short lollipop and return to the Nature Center. Instead I head off to the north and continue uphill on the red-blazed trail.

Through the boulder fields

Climbing and climbing with the crowds, this would be far from a solitary day on the trail. The perfect Saturday weather and quickly approaching winter meant there were plenty of folks to lead and follow today, many of them young kids or young couples in jeans and sneakers. At one switchback a trail maintenance crew was repairing damage and putting up natural blocks to deter people from cutting through. Later on the return trip the crew would be finished with their work, but unfortunately I saw cases where their efforts were for naught, as several people just went right over it and cut through anyway. Sigh…

The next section was all about the rocks. Huge, impressive rocks. Here you could definitely tell you were on the Blue Ridge Escarpment, climbing steadily through fields of giant block that crashed down from the ridges long ago. This show would be worth the trip by itself, but it wasn’t close to being the end of the impressive sights I’d see today. The trail switches more westerly and finally reaches a small CCC trailside rest shelter at 2400’ in elevation. Crowds were gathered inside and outside the shelter, having lunch and enjoying the dynamite views southward into the Piedmont.

After a brief rest I follow the ridgeline another few tenths and reach Panther Gap at 2552’. From here the Ridge Trail travels due west (left) to reach Pinnacle Mountain in 1.9 miles. I’ll go right here to enjoy a half mile of relatively flat ridgetop walking before more climbing begins. The crisp wind nips over the top of the ridge and the maples are exploding in orange. At this point I’m pretty happy that I decided to get off the couch on this Saturday.

A payoff of spectacular views

American holly appear on the ridge, but the pleasant ridge walking wouldn’t last, as soon it was time to climb again to make that last push to the summit. The contour lines on the topographical map don’t lie, as the climbing gets very tough again up rock staircase after rock staircase. After one particularly slick and tricky section of climbing across a rock face, another trail payoff appears on the left. Governor’s Rock, a 100-yard long and wide outcropping of rock on the side of the northern cliff of Table Rock, offers stunning views to the northwest. The crowds are gathered here enjoying lunch and soaking up the sun. The many kids on the rock seem none the worse for wear.  

The climbing eases up a bit after that point before going steadily up again through steep rocks and Table Mountain Pine for the last 400 feet, mercifully ending at the large wooden sign at the 3124’ summit. Now THAT was a workout. The trail isn’t over though, it continues downhill another few hundred yards before reaching two different areas of stunning edge-of-the-world view spots. The first is on the right at a south-facing rock outcropping featuring a small pine that resembles the Joshua Tree.

Many people end their walk here, unaware that the trail continues east another two tenths before ending at the extreme eastern edge of Table Rock. More spectacular views abound, this time of Table Rock Reservoir 1500 feet below. What an ending to a fantastic trail with highlights galore. After lunch I reluctantly turn around and retrace my steps, saving some energy for the last climb back to the summit. The return trip is a painful one, a real kneebuster, but it was well worth the trip. I place this walk solidly in my top 5 of all time, and I appreciate the drive back home that is much shorter than my usual Smoky Mountain returns.    

Low elevation on this 7.2 mile out-and-back walk was around 1200’ at the trailhead at the Table Rock State Park Nature Center and high elevation was 3124’ at the Table Rock summit. The walk included somewhere around 2500’ in overall climbing, maybe more. With all the spectacular view spots and tough climbing and descending, I averaged only 1.4 mph for the day. I highly recommend you put this walk on your must-walk list.

 

For pics of this walk, click the link below:

Table Rock Summit Trail(Opens in new window)

 

To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below:

Mountain Bridge Wilderness(Opens in new window)

 

Approximately 8 miles of walking around Upstate South Carolina’s Mountain Bridge Wilderness Area. The walk included segments of Coldspring Branch Trail, Coldspring Connector Trail,  Frank Coggins Trail, US 276, and Rim of the Gap Trail – October 30, 2010

 

Editors Note: Apologies to those that are used my typical journal entries with technical descriptions of the trails I walk on. Today I wanted to try something new. For those that need it, there are several great sites (and guidebooks) out there that have good descriptions of today’s trails. (Google: Rim of the Gap Trail) Thanks for your patience; I’ll try to get back to the regular program the next time I’m out on the trails. Thanks –Old Dan

Editor’s Note Part Deux: More inline pics to be added later.

 

Fall 2010 is disappearing quickly so it was time again to shake off the rust and get outside for a walk. My Halloween Eve destination was a third trip to Upstate South Carolina’s Mountain Bridge Wilderness Area. The Mountain Bridge Wilderness Area is a beautiful gorge and its surrounding forests on the edge of the Blue Ridge escarpment, showcasing towering cliffs, waterfalls, and pleasant creeks and trails featuring occasional fields of gargantuan boulders. On the west end is Caesars Head State Park and on the east end is Jones Gap State Park.

I’ve mentioned this before but if you’re looking for a really nice place to take an autumn afternoon drive or motorcycle ride, I’d highly recommend the South Carolina Scenic Highway, also known as SC Hwy 11. The road traverses the entire northwest corner of the State and is situated right on the edge of the Blue Ridge escarpment, the place where the eastern mountains end and turn to rolling hills. It is one of my favorite drives, right up there with the Blue Ridge Parkway and the Pacific Coast Highway. (ok, maybe not as grand as those two, but nice none the less) The last Saturday morning of October was perfect for a drive to the mountains from my home in the Midlands.

Changing plans on the fly

I was battling Young Dan in my mind all day today, the version of me that still thinks he’s 25. I’d planned to start my hike on the Rim of the Gap Trail at the lowland eastern side of the MBWA in Jones Gap State Park, but the gorgeous weather made me change my mind…

Old Dan: “We should really start on the east end at Jones Gap. Then we’d be doing our uphill in the morning like you always prefer. “

Young Dan: “What do you mean me? You mean YOU always prefer downhill in the afternoon! But that view of Table Rock from Caesars Head is your favorite, and there’s no way you’d backtrack your lazy butt back up there after you finish walking. I don’t want to miss that view today geezer.”

Old Dan: “Hey McFly…have you looked at the elevation profile? Of course you haven’t…you’re ‘Mr. Wing It’, right?”

Young Dan: “Oh come on…I’ve dragged your sorry butt up much higher mountains than these in the Smokies before.”

Old Dan: “Brilliant…do you know what those profile lines that are really close together mean? Of course you don’t, why bother with the details, right?"

Young Dan: “Right on dude...just go for it. Ha…you passed up the turn for Jones Gap State Park, so now you’re listening to the REAL brains of the outfit, huh?”

Old Dan: “I know we’ll both regret this, you’ll see.”

Young Dan: “Just step on it dude and quit your whining. Man, this road is awesome..don’t hurl man!”

So Young Dan won and I decided to catch the morning view from Caesars Head. Hard to argue with YD's logic at this point because the view was worth the few mile detour. So after a quick look at the view I continued a mile up US 276 and pulled into the Raven Cliff Falls parking area. It was only 10 AM but the parking area was already full. Here you must register your hike and pay your $2 to use the Parks, so I obliged and then was on my way for the first missteps of the days. I accidentally walked a few tenths out the Tom Miller Trail before realizing my intended trail, the Coldspring Branch Trail, started a few feet further down the parking lot.

Young Dan: “Nice job dude….you blew that 30 minutes.”

I returned and got going on the correct (orange blazed) trail, which turned out to be mostly an old logging road. It climbed through rhododendron tunnels through a pine/oak forest and the nice colors of Fall before reaching the intersection with the old familiar Bill Kimball Trail. I did the upper part of this trail on an icy day back in March, and since then they’d replaced the trail sign at the intersection with a shiny new one. I continued on Coldspring Branch Trail for a few more tenths of climbing before reaching the Coldspring Connector Trail. Just 0.5 miles to knock out this little trail…no problem, right?

Young Dan: “Oh (huffing, puffing)….is that what those lines on the profile map being close together means?”

Old Dan: “Yep (gasping, huffing, puffing)…I don’t (huff) want to hear (puff) another %$^@$%$ word out of you the rest of the day.”

Young Dan: “Word.”

So after a wicked climb I reached the intersection of the Frank Coggins Trail. Remind me not to do that little 0.5 demon of a trail again.

Old Dan: “We’re bailing out. No way I can do Rim of the Gap Trail and do all that climbing on the return trip this afternoon, I’m already whipped.”

Young Dan: “Word.”

So both of us were soon bailing out down the Frank Coggins Trail, a 0.5 mile gradual uphill walk connecting back up with US 276. ‘We’ emerged right at the Caesars Head Visitors Center and then took a right for a 1+ mile road walk back to the parking area.

From there I had to shuttle myself over to the flatlands at Jones Gap State Park to restart the walk from the other side of the MBWA.

(Part of) Rim of the Gap Trail

Today was not going well…I drove on over to the Jones Gap State Park entrance to find a line of cars and Park Ranger.

Elliott (Jones Gap State Park Ranger): “You’ll have to wait here..the Park is full. We’re letting one car in as one car leaves.”

Young Dan: “Brilliant job Einstein….this is so choice!”

Old Dan: “Just shut up and listen to the game.”

About an hour later I had moved my way up the queue and got to enter the Park as a car left. Finally! Rim of the Gap Trail was my destination when I came here to walk in March, but ice had closed the trail on that day. Today it was a different issue. It was already late, so I knew with all the missteps I would not have time to do the whole trail. When this sort of issue hits, I have a hard time just enjoying my time on the trail. I need to focus on the fact that it’s a gorgeous day in the woods and good Lord willing I’ll get to come back someday and finish the job. Heck, it gives me an excuse to come back. It didn’t matter though, unfortunately I was miffed.

So the yellow-blazed Rim of the Gap Trail starts on a left turn just after the start of the Jones Gap Trail. It begins with a sharp climb that doubles back above the entrance road, climbing through a field of very impressive boulders. At one point there is a cable to help with a very steep section. The forest is ablaze with the yellows and golds of late autumn at the low elevations. Soon I come upon the intersection with the white-blazed Pinnacle Pass Trail. This trail can be used for a nice loop that connects with Rim of the Gap Trail. I’ll try that one next time.

Switching back to the right from here the trail climbs through a slick areas of rocks before turning sharply left at a spot where a nice white pine stands in the center of the trail. From here you enter an enclosed tunnel of laurel and rhododendron and relentlessly climb, sometimes crossing shallow creeks. Views of the other side of the Gap begin to appear through the trees. The granite face on the opposing ridge is impressive, with a huge chasm running down its length. Climbing continues. I stop in my tracks as I round the ridge and hear the call of Falcons. The rare and endangered Peregrine Falcon is said to nest here, and it sounds like they are just a few feet away. They must hear me because the calls cease.

Voices in my head

I continue climbing but the voices are getting louder. Not the falcons, but rather Young Dan in my head:

Young Dan: “What do you mean you’re going to turn around soon? We’re not even half way!”

Old Dan: “Have you forgotten Palmetto Pass? With these new leaves on the ground…we’re going to lose the trail pretty easy in this low light. I’m beat too.”

Young Dan: “Low light?! Huh? It’s not even 4 PM…come on man!”

Old Dan: “I’m not taking any chances because I don’t know how long it will take to get back down the mountain. We’ve been climbing for several miles.” (not really…even though it seemed that way)

Young Dan: “Man, that's bogus! I do this under protest!”

Old Dan: “Suit yourself, but we’re going.”

Back down the mountain ‘we’ went..and as it turned out YD was probably right. I had a lot of daylight left when I made my way easily back down the mountain. It’s hard to judge when you’re relentlessly climbing, but I probably had enough time and light for at least another 2 or 3 miles. Oh well…next time.

Young Dan: “That was lame man…we could’ve done the whole loop. Totally lame.”

Old Dan: “Get used to it..because I get more lame by the minute. Trust me, you’d be the first one crying like a baby when you’re stuck out in the woods in thirty degree weather.”

Young Dan: “No way man. Hey…close those windows dude, that wind is cold!”

Old Dan: “Exactly!”

Low elevation on this 8 mile walk around the Mountain Bridge Wilderness Area was around 1450’ at the Jones Gap trailhead and high elevation was about 3000’ at Caesars Head. The walk included enough climbing to work out some of the rust, probably somewhere around 2200’ in overall climbing.

 

For pics of this walk, click the link below:

Mountain Bridge Wilderness(Opens in new window)

To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below:

Cataloochee Divide Trail(Opens in new window)

 

13.9 mile Y-shaped walk on the Cataloochee Divide in the Great Smoky Mountains. The walk started at Cove Creek Gap and ended in the Cataloochee area, covering Cataloochee Divide Trail, McKee Branch Trail, and Caldwell Fork Trail – October 2, 2010

 

The first weekend in October in the Smokies in a word?....Tremendously fantastic. Ok, that’s two words, but hey, crystal clear cool days and downright chilly nights were in store so I couldn’t resist getting out on the trails again. So I blew out the door at 05 early and drove to the nearest Smokies area to my South Carolina home, Cataloochee. Today I would polish off essentially the last of my unwalked miles originating from this gorgeous and popular area.

 I rolled into Cataloochee Valley fairly early but there was already a huge lineup of cars on each side of the road beside the tended meadows. The attraction was obvious, as the famous Smoky Mountain elk herd was out in the fields putting on quite a show. It was the first time I’d heard the bugling that is common for this time of the year, known as the rut. Several impressive bull elk with huge racks were in full song, songs that echoed loudly throughout the valley. It was a tremendous start to the day and just what I needed after a not-so-spectacular last visit one month previous. 

Views galore on Cataloochee Divide Trail

Today’s planned walk was to be a long one, and the route would depend on whether I could catch a ride to the Cataloochee Divide trailhead from near the full campground in the valley to Cove Creek Gap. If I couldn’t, it would add about 5 miles and 1500’ of climbing to my day, so I was definitely hoping for a break. Many cars passed me up as I walked along the road until Cindy and her daughter from Canton saved me…thanks Cindy! Can’t thank you enough for the ride and the great conversation along the winding road up to the Gap. After getting dropped off I set out on foot from the 4050’ Gap, heading southwest along the Divide through a thick forest of white pine and hickory.  

Cataloochee Divide is a massive ridge that straddles the Park boundary, with great views to the southeast on the left side and into Cataloochee Valley on the right. Unfortunately Fall had not yet arrived in full force at these elevations, so the trees still blocked most of the Cataloochee views. Views toward I-40 and Asheville were great though. At just over a mile there was one cleared spot that looked like it might have been used as a camp, where the trees had been cleared to offer a fantastic view of Cataloochee. The trail follows the ridge and runs beside the old familiar boundary fence built in the 30’s by the CCC. To the left of the fence was a long dirt road/driveway that eventually led to a new house being built directly beside the Park. No setback whatsoever…..the edge of the covered carport was directly on the Park boundary. Beyond the house were more fabulous views to the southeast. 

The trail passes Panther Spring Gap, reminding that this area has been the only place in the Smokies with reported, but unconfirmed, sightings of panthers. Officially the cat is declared extinct however. The sides of the trail are crowded with wildflowers of many types, jewelweed, snakeroot, nettle, and witch hazel among them. I spot my first bluebead lily, with striking blue beads as the name implies dangling on the end of long stalks. As is typical of Smokies ridge walk, it’s not as easy a stroll as you’d think. Lots of ups and downs with a general uphill bias. Views of Purchase Knob appear on the left as I climb. I stop for a rest at Taylor’s Turnaround, one of the huts placed outside the boundary for visitors of The Swag resort.  

I continue on and before long reach Purchase Gap (elevation 4800’) at the intersection with McKee Branch Trail. I’ll pass this trail up for now but return here in a couple of hours for the descent back to my car. At Purchase Gap I meet up with two great couples that are out exploring the trails while staying at the Swag. Greg, Elizabeth, Bev, and Ken from Nashville are my new walking partners for the next 1.4 miles, and we all continue southwest while conversing about different Smoky Mountain topics. I pretend that I know what I’m talking about and we enjoy the walk in the great afternoon weather. I split from them at the Swag to complete the last 0.4 miles of the trail, ending at the intersection with Hemphill Bald Trail at Double Gap. I was here last June for a fantastic loop out of Polls Gap, still one of my all-time favorite walks.

I double back and on the return trip to Purchase Gap my new best friends invite me for cookies and Coca-Cola on the peaceful deck of the Swag. Heaven on Earth…fresh baked chocolate chip cookies and Coke in mid-walk…what could be better! Thanks Greg, Elizabeth (don't call me Susie :)), Bev, and Ken! Reluctantly I must leave due to the time, so I say goodbye and continue back to Purchase Gap, sugar rush fully engaged and feeling like $100. 

Downhill slogging on McKee Branch Trail

 

I had read in many of the blogs I follow that McKee Branch Trail is one of those miserable experiences you complete and hope you don’t come back to. I hoped that the experience of this knee-busting downhill wouldn’t dampen what had been a real good day so far. McKee Branch Trail is probably named for the McGee family that lived and is buried at the end of the trail near Caldwell Fork. I didn’t have a lot to say about this tumbling, rocky, deeply rutted downhill horse trail, except I was relieved to be going down it instead of up. One thing worked in my favor, however. Recent dry conditions followed by a big rain had made the abundant mud exactly the right consistency to actually help my descent. Both too dry and too wet to be overly slick, it had more of a consistency of Play-Doh. This helped cushion the impact of the downhill slog and I had absolutely no back or knee discomfort, despite losing about 1800’ of elevation in only 2.3 miles. Near the bottom the trail flattens out in a dying hemlock forest in the area once occupied by the McGees and includes a couple shallow crossings of the namesake creek. In no time I happily arrived at the intersection with Caldwell Fork Trail with nary a complaint in mind. McKee Branch Trail…done! 

Caldwell Fork Trail

 

I turn right on Caldwell Fork Trail for an easy 3.1 mile saunter back to the car. I had done this section of the oft-muddy trail previously so I stowed my camera and cruised along at an easy pace. Caldwell Fork Trail is loaded with creek crossings, mostly on footlogs that are placed high above the water to avoid being washed out by Caldwell Fork. A few of the footlogs are so high they get your attention. There is only one real spot that you must cross without a footlog, but it is reasonably easy to keep your feet dry. For pictures from this section of trail I recommend you visit my gallery from Winter 2008. 

A love rekindled

 

If you read my previous post you probably wondered, as I did, whether I’d be back to walking again any time soon. My last experience was not ideal. But an early-Autumn day of walking in the Smokies can make you easily forget your troubles, so I’d say my love for this hobby has been restored. I’m looking forward to getting back out there on the trails soon, and I recommend it all of you as well.

 

Low elevation on this 13.9 mile walk was around 2650’ at the Caldwell Fork trailhead in the Cataloochee area and high elevation was about 5090’ at Double Gap at the intersection of Cataloochee Divide Trail and Hemphill Bald Trail. The walk included nearly 3200’ in overall climbing and 4640’ in descending.

 

For pics of this walk, click the link below:

Cataloochee Divide Trail(Opens in new window)

 

 

 

 

 

To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below:

Hughes Ridge Loop(Opens in new window)

 

15.7 mile loop walk on Hughes Ridge in the Great Smoky Mountains. The loop started and ended at the Smokemont Campground and included Bradley Fork Trail, Chasteen Creek Trail, and Hughes Ridge Trail – September 4, 2010

 

Summer break may be over but clearly the Summer season was trying to hang around and pretend back to school never happened and it wasn’t the first weekend of football season, like that cousin that starts school later than you do and won’t go home. But finally, on the first Saturday of September and of Labor Day weekend, a cold front broke Summer’s will and he was in full retreat. Sing it with me now….HAAAAA-LE-LU-JAH!!! For the first time in months, I was actually chilly when I stepped out of the car at the full Smokemont Campground, the smell of breakfast wafting through the clear morning air. I set out for today’s walk before realizing it was in fact so chilly that I might actually need my fleece later, so I did a 180 and grabbed my long lost friend out of the back of the car. I wouldn’t have wanted to get stuck out on the trail tonight without it in lows that were probably going to reach the high 30’s in the high country. 

Today would be one of the most critical days in my 2.5 year hiking ‘career’. For the first time since severely re-aggravating my old back injury 3 months ago, I was going to try a long day on the trail. In the nearly twenty years since going under the knife to repair some blown out disks, I’ve learned to tell the difference between when I just tweaked my back and when it was serious. This one felt serious. Since late Spring I’ve been cutting back on the strenuous climbing, and when I did walk, limiting myself to under 6 miles. But lately I’ve been feeling better, and it was time to put my recovery to the test. Tackling today’s 15.7 mile loop would mean I’d have to shoulder my heavy day-pack rather that the hip pack I’d been using for recent short jaunts. There was much trepidation and doubt as I set out from the campground up Bradley Fork Trail around 9:30 AM.  

Bradley Fork Trail and the climb up Chasteen Creek Trail

 

Not far along Bradley Fork Trail I came across an interesting sight. A three-foot-wide boulder had eroded away from the upper portion of the trail, the part that connects in from the Luftee Baptist Church, and fallen on the lower trail. Glad I wasn’t walking by when that thing fell. Bradley Fork Trail climbs above the namesake creek and follows to the right of it for 4 easy, gradually ascending miles. I’d do 1.2 miles of it in the morning and the remaining miles this afternoon, when I knew I’d appreciate the gradual, easy descent. Today the trail was missing its usual quagmire of mud thanks to lack of rain and some recent maintenance. On the right was some sort of hedge-nettle with striking blue flowers and an abundance of orange jewelweed. In a blink it was time to turn right onto Chasteen Creek Trail. 

You can spot, and smell, a Smokies horse trail from miles away. The lower portion of Chasteen Creek Trail is an absolute disaster. Rutted and rocky with an abundance of obstacles left by our equine friends, the only saving grace on this lower section was the fact that dry conditions kept the thick mud hard enough to get through without sinking above my ankles. About 0.7 miles up the trail is a short spur that leads to an area of horse tie-ups on the left. Here a family with young girls was dismounting to play in Chasteen Creek. From here the trail begins to climb more steeply, and quickly comes up a spot to view a nice cascade of the creek. The horse damage and obstacles thankfully are left behind at this point.     

After two 2.4 miles of climbing with Chasteen Creek well below on the left, I come upon backcountry campsite #48. This is a peaceful spot in a nice area between two small creeks, roughly 3300’ in elevation. The camp is empty despite the long holiday weekend and stellar weather. I’d reached this spot on a foggy late-Fall walk in ’08. Above the camp were new miles for me and an even steeper climb away from the creeks and into the oaks and dead hemlocks.

Striking blue berries of the umbrella leaf and the dangling red berries of rosy twisted-stalk line the sides of the trail. At one nice spot the trail almost levels in a peaceful cove…and I stop to listen to the silence. The only sounds are from trees rubbing together in the wind, making the sound of either a horse whinnying or a cow mooing…depending on the species of tree I guess. J 

 

 

Doubts creep in on Hughes Ridge

 

To this point I've felt pretty good, but the climb becomes relentless after the nice cove. Switching back several times, I finally see the edges of Enloe Ridge in the distance, providing hope that I'm nearing the top. But as is often the case on a big climb, I've got a long way to go. Switchback after switchback, I'm really starting to feel the effects of the 3 month layoff. Finally, mercifully, I crest Hughes Ridge and reach the intersection with Hughes Ridge Trail. The first fir tree appears at the junction, and I'm at almost 4700' in elevation. To the right, Hughes Ridge Trail used to descend down into the campground across Becks Bald, but that section is no longer maintained.

 

I turn left and begin the northern trek towards the AT along Hughes Ridge and the trail built by the CCC in 1934. Sprawling Hughes Ridge runs perpendicular to the Smokies spine and separates the Oconaluftee River valley from the Balsam Mountains. Ridge walking in the Smokies is normally a fantastic experience, but I'm not enjoying it today. It is up-and-down walking, and I've had about all I can take. To my dismay, I've got about 400' of elevation to gain before I reach the high point of today's walk (~5100'), and even then the climbing won't be over. At 0.5 mile I pass the Enloe Creek Trail intersection, a trail that turns right and drops into the Balsams. It is on my to-do list, but at this point I have strong doubts that I'll ever see that trail again. The spruce-fir is starting to become more prevelent as I trek north. There are what should be awesome views of Mine Ridge to my left, and later Katalsta Ridge to my right, but unfortunately I can't really seem them well through the trees. I should've saved this trail for late Fall or early Spring. 

Laurel tunnels and thick spruce now shroud the trail as I finally reach the intersection with Bradley Fork Trail at the 2.8 mile mark. I collapse in a pathetic heap after almost 1000' of climbing on a 'flat' ridgetop. I'm only 2.0 miles from Pecks Corner and 2.2 miles from the AT, so close I can taste it. I struggle with the fact that I'm so close to this remote area that is so difficult to reach any other way, but I decide not to add 4.4 miles to my already long day. It is late, and I'm pretty whipped already. It would take a 20 mile walk to complete those 2.2 miles today or any other day, so again I have strong doubts I'll ever see that un-walked section of trail. Reluctantly I swing left and start down Bradley Fork Trail for the long descent back to the campground.

I’m done…I think

 

Despite the fact that I’d been on Bradley Fork Trail more than any other Smokies trail, I had not previously walked the upper 3.3 miles. I can say now that I’d be ok if I never walked it again. The upper segment was a slow and steep miserable descent on rocks and ruts. Again, views would’ve been pretty decent through the laurel , beech, and oaks had it been a different time of year. At one point I even saw the top of Mount LeConte through the trees. The AT ridge was there too, but only briefly through the leaves. My mind had told my body that I was done, and at that point there was nothing I could do to enjoy the remainder of my walk. I even stowed my camera, which I never do. I was done. I walked head down through the remainder of the trail, barely noticing the abundant shrooms and views of Taywa Creek as the trail flattened out near the intersection with Cabin Flats Trail. I turned left at the traffic circle and sped through the remaining 4 miles, not even pausing to enjoy the creek. (you can see my pics of that section from different walks under ‘Hiking Journal Archives’ at the top of my page)

I'm writing this on Labor Day, two days post-walk. When I drove home exhausted late Saturday night I was sure I was going to quit this walking hobby. In fact I was positive. Why would I continue to put myself through the discomfort? I'm not sure, but now here I am two days later...and my only thoughts are that I'm thankful. Everything on my body hurts....everything except my back. Praise the Lord!...when is my next walk? J  

 

Low elevation on this 15.7 mile loop walk was around 2250' at the Bradley Fork trailhead in the Smokemont Campground and the high elevation was about 5090' on Hughes Ridge Trail. The walk included about 4000' in overall climbing.

 

For pics of this walk, click the link below:

Hughes Ridge Loop(Opens in new window)

To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below:

Mount Pisgah Loop (opens in new window)

Approximately 6 mile loop walk to the summit of 5721’ Mount Pisgah. The loop started and ended at the Pisgah Inn on the Blue Ridge Parkway – August 22, 2010

My website world has been a shambles lately, so I’ve been busy trying to get everything back in order. An apparent hack attack put my site on the warned list at Google, so I’ve moved it over to a new server home. Thanks for sticking with me while I work out the kinks of this new application. 

My most recent walk was another of those repeats from long ago…a Sunday climb to the summit of popular Mount Pisgah on the Blue Ridge Parkway. This is another of those walks I did a long time ago, as a teenager with my best bud Ted. About half way up the climb we started jogging to the top, then collapsed in a heap on the brand new observation deck when we reached the summit. Up came a spry older gent, celebrating his birthday number 80-something. “I climb this mountain every year on my birthday.” He wasn’t even winded while the two of us struggled to get a breath and couldn’t move a muscle. I wouldn’t be surprised if that old guy was still alive today. 

Setting out from the Inn

At long last the cooler weather is beginning to make an appearance up in the high country. It has been a scorching summer and personally I’d be ok if it decided to call it a 2010. The winds were blowing as I set off from the Pisgah Inn parking lot for my climb to the summit. The walk starts on the obscure trail across the Parkway from the Mount Pisgah Country Store. After dropping down a flight of stone steps, the trails enters a dark and dank high elevation forest of large oaks and spruce. I turn east and pass between the campground property and Parkway through a tunnel of rhododendron.

Although the trail is well worn, I notice the fact that I have to bend down a lot as I walk through the tunnels, something you don’t typically have to do in the Smokies. Despite the fact that I’m walking just a short distance from the packed campground on one side and the busy Parkway on the other, the trail gives a feeling of being in the middle of nowhere. As with my previous walk, I’m treated to a great showing of mushrooms of all varieties, shapes, and colors. A white rectangular blaze painted on the trees, exactly like the one on that other trail we all know and love, helps keep me on track.    

In a short while I pass a few small seeps that are the headwaters of creeks that will drain towards Canton to the north. Jewelweed and ferns are abundant on the trail perimeters. At about 0.8 miles I reach the parking lot for the Pisgah picnic area, where they’ve conveniently painted blazes on the asphalt to direct you back into the woods on the opposite side. I pass some pretty Pink Turtleheads and then skirt the north side of the Buck Spring tunnel, under construction with stimulus funds.  A short while later I reach the intersection with the trail that 99% of Pisgah summit hikers take near the main parking area.

 To the top – 30 years later

 The popular 1.5 mile summit trail is wide and well-worn. It starts with an innocent climb for the first several tenths, passing a large exposed rock on the right and a few view clearings on the left. From the clearings you can look back towards the west and see Frying Pan tower. You’ll have an even better view of the tower if you make it to the top. The trail bends around to the right and I can begin to see my destination, with its huge TV tower coming in and out of the clouds. A short while later the trail turns left and begins a tougher climb.

Here the trail changes character and begins to climb up slippery staircases of rock. In a few spots there are clearings that afford a view back to the south. I stop to catch my breath and admire the Filmy Angelica and Heart-Leaved Astor growing abundantly beside the trail. The bees are busy and don’t seem concerned of my presence. I switch now back to the right and the climb is really getting steep. Above my head are huge clusters of bright red Mountain Ash berries. I step aside and let several people and their unleashed dogs go flying past me. Seems I’ve lost my hiking legs and lungs already. It takes years to build stamina and only a few short weeks to lose it.

Finally…the 5721’ summit. Here the huge red and white WLOS-TV tower and outbuildings dominate the landscape. I rest on the same deck I collapsed on almost 30 years ago and think of my old buddy Ted in Florida. The clouds come and go but the views are nice all the way around of the Inn to the south and Cold Mountain in the Shining Rock Wilderness to the west. The north is obscured by a big ugly tower and the view towards Asheville is clouded in. I sure don’t want to leave, but must.

Buck Spring Lodge and the MST 

On the return walk I take the southern route, following the Mountains-to-Sea Trail for a short distance. Here I pass the remains of George Vanderbilt’s Buck Spring Lodge, which George had built as a hunting retreat for himself and his summer guests. The nearby Shut-In Trail was used by George and company to travel the 17 mile distance between here and the opulent Biltmore Estate. Being so close for day-walkers from the Pisgah Inn means this portion of the MST is well maintained with log steps and wide paths. I pass a few spur trails that would allow for longer adventures if I decide to come back and stay. Shortly after I see the crew quarters for the Inn workers and then spot the changing colors of what looks like the Columbine wildflower. Autumn is coming soon, and I’m ready for it.

Low elevation on my roughly 6 miles of walking was around 4800’ on the outbound trail and high elevation was 5721’ atop the Mount Pisgah. I don’t know how much overall climbing I did, but my guess is it was probably somewhere around 1200’.

For pics of this walk, click the link below:

Mount Pisgah Loop (opens in new window)

 

To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below: Palmer Creek Trail(Opens in new window)

6.6 mile out-and-back walk on Palmer Creek Trail in the Balsam Mountains of the Great Smoky Mountains. The walk started and ended at the Palmer Creek trailhead on Balsam Mountain Road – July 31, 2010

While on a camping break with the family I took the opportunity for a quick last-Saturday-of-July walk in one of my favorite Smoky Mountains areas, the high country of the Balsam Mountains. I was treated to a great wild turkey show on the way up beautiful Heintooga Ridge Road towards the trailhead. Three separate flocks were feeding in the cleared areas along the roadside, including many chicks that cautiously huddled close to their parents. It was an obvious and fitting prelude to walking a trail named after former Cataloochee resident Turkey George Palmer. I had no clue of the socked-in conditions at the mile-high elevations when I left the steamy low elevation camp. It was a different world, cool and damp with no visibility. 

Today I would catch the short Palmer Creek Trail, one of only a couple that I’d not yet completed on the Heintooga Ridge Road/Balsam Mountain Road/Round Bottom Road/Straight Fork Road conglomeration. This road combination is a terrific day’s journey in itself, starting a mile high in Balsams on the Blue Ridge Parkway and eventually ending up in Cherokee after a long, winding, gravel one-way downhill plunge. I cruise slowly through the fog for seven miles on the one-way gravel section before reaching the western trailhead for Palmer Creek Trail. Balsam Mountain Road makes a sharp left at the tip of Trail Ridge, and this is where I’ll park the car for my short out-and-back. A large church van fittingly from Eden, NC sits beside the trail sign, but I would not meet the occupants on my route today. Palmer Creek Trail drops east out these high mountains and down into Cataloochee Valley, so I presume folks use this trail as a start point for a backpack trip to one of many options in that area. Mount Sterling can also be reached from this start point, but to do that hike you’d have to gain back the 1500 feet you drop on Palmer Creek Trail and then some.

 

 

 Palmer Creek Trail – The mushroom show

 Palmer Creek Trail starts with an innocent but short ridge walk amidst tall rhododendron, and here is where I get my first look at the amazing show I was in for on this day. Mushrooms of all shapes and sizes were on full display throughout the length of the trail. In nearly 600 miles of walking around these mountains, I’ve never seen a show quite like it. Big shrooms, miniature shrooms, orange, white, red, and all colors in between…It was a quite a show. Unfortunately with batteries running low I had to restrain from taking a picture of every one for fear of missing the creek views later in the trail.

 

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Shortly after the start there is an abandoned trail that goes off to the left. I follow it around just to see where it was going and come upon what I presume is a weather monitoring station set up by the Park Service. I backtrack and then begin the drop off of Trail Ridge amidst thick walls of mountain laurel and rhododendron. Unfortunately both of these shrubs are past their peak of bloom for the year, and although I’ve seen some good laurel shows on Bote Mountain I’ve missed the rhodo show for 2010. Oh well, that will give me an excuse for next year. I come upon some fantastic displays of Yellow-Fringed Orchids, with showy orange bloom clusters at the end of long stalks. A short time later I enter an excellent 300-foot-long rhododendron tunnel. 

With just a short walk today and a still-recovering back I’ve once again set out on the trail without my faithful 2 year companion, my Kelty daypack. On recent walks I’d not worried too much about not having it along because I was on short, heavily-traveled trails. This area, however, gave me that sense of remoteness…and I began to wonder if it was a good idea to be out in these deep woods without my usual compass, maps, GPS, overabundant food and water supply, first aid kit, lighter, etc, etc. My hip pack would have to do for today. Hopefully I wouldn’t have another Poinsett Passage experience. Creekside strolling After the rhodo tunnel the trail descends the side of Trail ridge through an oak forest with the occasional views to the south of Shanty Ridge. The dark spruce trees stand out like soldiers in formation along the ridge’s crest. The sides of the trail are lined with tall laurel and rhododendron and in the air is the distinct smell of this forest type that is hard to describe. A pleasant fragrance but definitely distinct to the closed oak forest. I soon come to the first of three footlog crossings on today’s trail, this one across Beech Creek just before the confluence with Falling Rock Creek. The brown book includes a description of the unfortunate incident that gave this tributary its name.

 

Beyond the pleasant crossing the grade levels some and the forest changes character to the cove hardwood variety. More impressive mushrooms keep my camera occupied and I begin to see larger trees, many of them dead hemlocks. One huge maple beside the trail bares a scar from nearly top to bottom that must have been a lighting strike. At another nice footlog crossing of Lost Bottom Creek the trail turns sharply right and then travels the majority of the remainder of its distance about 50 feet above and to the left of Palmer Creek. The creek tumbles through multiple picturesque cascades across large blocks of sandstone, but unfortunately it’s just far enough below me as to not allow a decent picture through the trees. In no time at all I’ve reached the level bottom land at what used to be called Indian Flats. One more crossing of Pretty Hollow Creek and then I come to the end of my descent at the intersection with Pretty Hollow Gap Trail. From here a hiker can turn left and ascend Pretty Hollow Gap Trail and eventually reach Mount Sterling, or turn right and reach the Cataloochee area after an easy 1.6 mile descent.

Today I’ll do neither. I grab a quick snack and begin the 1500’ ascent back to my car. Ascending at the end of a walk is something I try to avoid, but I can’t really complain due to the minimal distance I’d cover today. About a mile up the trail the rain started, and shortly after it became a full-on monsoon complete with occasional claps of thunder overhead. Ah…another reason I miss my daypack….my rain poncho. The rain keeps me cool though for the ascent. Watching the muddy runoff pour down the mountain, I get a flashback memory to December 16, 1979. 15 years old, I was in Tampa Stadium (a.k.a. the Big Sombrero) that day as I watched the Bucs win their first NFC Central Division championship with my friend Ted in an absolute monsoon. The game is an all-time top 10 weather game in the NFL, and an all-time great memory for me. 

The rain pouring down the trail brought back the memory of the water pouring down the steps of the old Sombrero. I could picture former Buc greats Cecil Johnson, David Lewis, and Jimmie Giles dancing in the mud at midfield, all serving to keep my mind off the 1500’ climb. The only dancing I did was when I reached the end of the climb at Balsam Mountain Road and settled in to my dry car for the ride back to camp, completing another great day in the Great Smoky Mountains. Low elevation on my 6.6 mile out-and-back walk was around 3000’ at the east end of the trail, the Pretty Hollow Gap Trail intersection in Indian Flats. High elevation was around 4500’ at the western trailhead on Balsam Mountain Road. The walk included just over 2000’ in overall climbing.

For pics of this walk, click the link below: Palmer Creek Trail(Opens in new window)

To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below: Clingmans Dome to Andrews Bald(Opens in new window) 3.6 mile out-and-back walk to Andrews Bald in the Great Smoky Mountains. The walk starts at the Clingmans Dome parking area and visits some of the best views in the Park – July 10, 2010 Another summer Saturday meant another trip with my boys to visit a Smoky Mountains Hall-of-Fame destination…Andrews Bald. This stunning heath bald, one of two balds maintained by the National Park Service, has some of the finest views in the entire Park if you catch the right type of day. Considering it was the middle of summer when haze and fog are the norm, we would be pretty lucky with the views we saw on our walk today. I remember visiting Andrews Bald about 5 or 6 years ago, a few years before I would decide to get serious about this walking hobby. That day I sure didn’t plan to walk 3.6 miles, showing up with no water or supplies at the Clingmans Dome parking lot in my jeans shorts and tennis shoes. But I starting walking down Forney Ridge Trail and wound up enjoying myself so much I decided to keep going. A few hours later I emerged from the trail with a new respect for 3.6 miles of walking in the mountains. This was nothing like the flat mileage I walked multiple times a week around my neighborhood. No comparison. [caption id="attachment_1675" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Photographer of the day"] [/caption] No complaints from the boys today about a walk in the mountains, they were ready to go. We traveled the nicely repaved Clingmans Dome Road and emerged from the cool but overstuffed Dome parking area prepared for a good late afternoon on the trail. Thomas would take over the majority of the photography duties today, and he immediately got busy snapping away at the tremendous views. I got busy trying to convince two couples from Indiana that they needed to walk the 0.5 mile up to the Dome. I can’t imagine coming this far up here and not taking the short trip. [caption id="attachment_1676" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Getting ready to roll"] [/caption] Forney Ridge Trail It’s hard not to spend the entire day sitting in the Clingmans parking area and enjoying the views southward into Swain County. I love this spot, especially in the late afternoon when the shadows roll over the mountains and the vibrant sunset colors begin to appear. But we had a few hours of walking to do, so we took the left turn just before the paved Clingmans Dome Trail starts uphill to the tower and instead started downhill on Forney Ridge Trail. [caption id="attachment_1677" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Bee balm by Thomas"] [/caption] The first 0.1 mile graveled section of the trail descends sharply through a field of huge boulders. The wildflower show was impressive, with bee balm and a few Turks Cap Lillies being the primary showpieces. The brilliant red berries of Mountain Ash also lit up the side of the ridge. Blackberry bushes were packed full with unripe berries. At the 0.1 mile the trail intersects with the Clingmans Dome Bypass Trail on the right. Nick tackled that trail a couple of years ago but Thomas hasn’t done it yet, so we’ll come back another day. We turn left and continue our descent down Forney Ridge on the namesake trail. [caption id="attachment_1678" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The boys trekking uphill in the spruce-fir"] [/caption] The heavily-bouldered first several tenths of the descent are a difficult trek. The trail follows Forney Ridge down through the spruce-fir forest with views of the AT ridge in spots on the right. I believe there has been work on the trail since my last visit, and I don’t think the condition is as bad as it was then. It’s still no cakewalk though, with several tricky rock sections to navigate. None of the sections are thigh-busters requiring deep knee bends though, so it’s not so bad. The boys remind me that they don’t appreciate descending at the beginning of the trail….who does that sound like? 8) [caption id="attachment_1679" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The grassy fields of Andrews Bald"] [/caption] Hall-of-Fame destination Andrews Bald After 1.1 miles of descending we reach the intersection with Forney Creek Trail, a trail that goes right and down the ridge to eventually end at Fontana Lake 11 miles downhill. The forest here is full of mushrooms and young spruce trees, having a very closed-in feel. It must be quite a dark place at night, with no room for moonlight to filter through the packed trees. We continue on, ascending for the next few tenths before descending again and stepping out into the open of Andrews Bald at 1.8 miles. It is pretty cool to emerge from the dark, dank, closed-in spruce forest and come out onto a wide open grassy bald with views to eternity in front of you. We’re at 5728’ in elevation. [caption id="attachment_1681" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The boys check out the view"] [/caption] We spend a long time basking in the sun and enjoying the cool breezes rolling across the protected bald and also the incredible views. As mentioned earlier this bald is one of two in the Park that are maintained to stay free of forest encroachment. We’ve missed the Flame Azalea show by a couple of weeks, but you can still see the bright red pistils of the spent flowers all over the shrubs on the bald. It must have been quite a show. Blueberries bushes are also spotted throughout the bald, unfortunately still not ripe. We’re joined by a family with 4 small children, one of them an infant girl riding in her Mom’s caddie on her first ‘hike’. Another future hiker is born. [caption id="attachment_1682" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Sunset photo by Thomas"] [/caption] Too soon we leave the peaceful Bald and return into the dark spruce-fir forest for the walk back to the parking lot. As the boys have mentioned on several occasions it is the return trip that contains the majority of today’s uphill trekking, a mental hurdle that is tough for them to ignore. They grumble but I’m ok with it, because the uphill feels better on my back. Walking without the usual 20 pounds on my back has also made it an easier day for me. We make it back to the parking lot in time to see some dynamite scenes washing across the mountains, ending another exceptional day in the high Smokies. On the way home the next day we top off a great weekend with another favorite destination of mine, the Pisgah Inn, where we enjoy a great lunch. [caption id="attachment_1674" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Lunch at Pisgah Inn"] [/caption] Low elevation on our 3.6 mile out-and-back walk was around 5710’ at Andrews Bald and high elevation was around 6260’ at the Forney Ridge trailhead at the Clingmans Dome parking area. For pics of this walk, click the link below: Clingmans Dome to Andrews Bald(Opens in new window)

To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below: Mount Mitchell and Craggy Pinnacle – Blue Ridge Parkway(Opens in new window) [caption id="attachment_1655" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The boys about to bag an SB6K peak"] [/caption] Approximately 2 miles of strolling around the Black Mountains with my sons. First stop was Mount Mitchell State Park and then we climbed up Craggy Pinnacle on the Blue Ridge Parkway – July 5, 2010 Happy 234th America! Independence Day weekend was a chance to finally get a break from recent long hours at work and also recover from busy trip across the country. It was the first time in a long time that work would be so busy I would not have time to set foot on a hiking trail or in a touristy area. I intended to just spend the long weekend chilling out at home, but alas the pull of our beautiful eastern mountains was far too strong. Combine that with a long month since my last walk and it was inevitable…and Monday I was on the road with my two sons heading north and back to God’s Country. In terms of hiking condition, however, unfortunately I’m still on injured reserve. So for the near future I will have to stick with short strolls with good footing and moderate climbs. Our plan for today was to head northeast of Asheville on the Blue Ridge Parkway to allow my sons to bag the highest peak east of the Black Hills on a short climb at Mount Mitchell State Park. Then on the return trip we’d stop for another short climb up Craggy Pinnacle, a heath covered summit in the gorgeous Craggy Gardens area of the Parkway near milepost 364. [caption id="attachment_1656" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Mount Mitchell State Park office"] [/caption] Mount Mitchell State Park After some unusually gorgeous July weather early in the weekend it was back to more normal conditions, and it was shaping up to be a warm day in Asheville as we headed north towards the Black Mountains. We made a quick stop for some essential 75th anniversary gear at the Parkway Visitor Center, a nice facility with some cool new interactive exhibits. This year the Parkway is celebrating its 75th anniversary, much like the Smokies did last year. The roads north of the VC are in the process of being re-paved, but fortunately there was no work going on today. We pulled in to the Mount Mitchell State Park entrance and I was relieved to see that we would be treated to an unusually clear summer day. [caption id="attachment_1658" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The Elisha Mitchell gravesite"] [/caption] The entrance road passes the Park offices, a restaurant, and camping area on the right before reaching the summit parking area after a couple of miles. There is a nice little snack bar and gift shop at the summit trailhead, which naturally we had to check out. Hey, don’t want to miss anything you know. The parking lot was busting at the seams thanks to the extended holiday weekend. Just to the left of the snack bar is the paved trail to the summit of Mount Mitchell. I had to chuckle at the sign saying the ‘trail’ was 280 yards long. Yep, 280 yards…definitely no hero stuff on this ‘trail’. [caption id="attachment_1659" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Trekking on the Old Mitchell Trail"] [/caption] Since my last visit to the summit 30 years ago the observation platform at the summit has been restored and Elisha Mitchell’s gravesite has also been given fresh stone. We bag the 6684’ summit of the eastern USA’s highest peak and enjoy the 360 degree view in the unusually clear skies. After all that peak bagging a nice dinner at the rustic, picture-windowed restaurant overlooking the summit was in order, a thoroughly enjoyable experience. After dinner we take a short stroll outside the restaurant on Old Mitchell Trail. The boys decide they’d love to come back and visit this nice trail in the spruce-fir forest at another time. Music to my ears. [caption id="attachment_1660" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Through the tunnels on Craggy Pinnacle Trail"] [/caption] Craggy Pinnacle Just a short drive south of Mount Mitchell along the Blue Ridge Parkway brings us to the Craggy Gardens area. This popular area famous for its heath-covered rounded ridgetops with gorgeous displays of Catawba Rhododendron has separate parking areas for a Visitor Center, a picnic area, and trails. No rhodo show for us today, but we would stop at the northernmost parking lot overlooking Craggy Dome, a 6080 foot peak, for a short climb on the Craggy Pinnacle Trail. [caption id="attachment_1662" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Views from Craggy Pinnacle"] [/caption] The short, well-worn 0.7 mile trail up to the top of Craggy Pinnacle climbs away from Craggy Dome and almost entirely through a dense rhododendron tunnel. It is a pleasant experience that the boys really enjoy. There are a few trees along the way, but most are stunted or have mangled trunks from what I presume are rough conditions at these elevations. Nearly-ripe wild blueberry bushes grow abundantly amongst the cover of the rhodo. The rhododendron and laurel are about a foot or two over our heads so the only views along the trail are from one small rock outcrop. No worries though, because after about 250' of elevation gain we reach the top where we are treated to gorgeous 360 degree views from a large rock observation platform at the summit. We linger a while at the 5892' summit and enjoy the cloud-free late-afternoon and the cool breezes. None of us really want to leave but we reluctantly trudge back to the parking area and make the long drive home, satisfied with another beautiful day of walking around in the hills. [caption id="attachment_1654" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Craggy Dome from Craggy Pinnacle"] [/caption] Low elevation on our roughly 2 miles of walking was around 5640’ at the Craggy Gardens parking area and high elevation was 6684’ atop the east’s highest point, Mount Mitchell. I don’t know how much overall climbing we did, but safe to say it was a lot less than usual. I can get used to these short walks. For pics of this walk, click the link below: Mount Mitchell and Craggy Pinnacle – Blue Ridge Parkway(Opens in new window)

[caption id="attachment_1628" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Mouse Creek Falls"]

[/caption] To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below: Big Creek Trail(Opens in new window) 11.6 mile out-and-back walk on Big Creek Trail in the Big Creek area of the Smokies. The walk started and ended at the Big Creek trailhead – June 5, 2010 Saying “I can’t” or “I shouldn’t” is a tough thing for an old former macho man to do. For some time I’d been planning to walk several long loops that would begin at the Big Creek Trail, a 5.8 mile gradually ascending former railroad grade tucked into the northeast edge of the Great Smoky Mountains. My desire was to walk one of those long loops, a tough 16.6 miler summiting Mount Sterling, when I headed east from Gatlinburg on the first Saturday morning of June. I wouldn’t be far into my walk when I had the realization that today I can’t, and I shouldn’t. [caption id="attachment_1626" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Tumbling Big Creek"] [/caption] Big Creek Trail The Big Creek Trail follows a old road/railway from the site of a former CCC camp and the Crestmont Lumber Company mill at the eastern edge of the Smokies into Walnut Bottom, also site of a former logging camp run by Champion Fibre Company. Boulder-strewn Big Creek, which the trail follows for its entire length, drains a vast watershed between two dominant Smoky Mountain ridges. To the north of the creek is Mount Cammerer Ridge, site of the fine lookout that is so popular for Smokies hikers and also the Appalachian Trail. To the south is Mount Sterling Ridge, site of a lookout tower and another extremely popular Smokies destination. [caption id="attachment_1625" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Wild Strawberry"] [/caption] The trail starts with a gradual ascent above the camping area, which would not be visible from the trail today through the trees on the left. The steep ridge on the right side of the trail has areas of exposed rock, evidence of the blasting work to create a grade favorable for a steam engine. Several of the rock walls have pleasant seep areas, with water dripping down across the rocks from the ridges above and creating cool moist bogs filled with wildflowers. In one of those moist areas I spot the bright red fruit of the wild strawberry growing low to ground. Soon the creek comes into view about 80 feet below the trail on the left. Further up I spot some nice views of ridgetops to the south, which would be the only ridge views of today’s walk. Later the trail begins to draw parallel to Big Creek and there are many areas to view the impressive waterway. Large whitish-colored boulders are the theme for this creek, and there are many deep green pools and spills and cascades. I pass Midnight Hole, one of the deep green pools that is a popular swimming area. When I return this afternoon the pool would be filled with swimmers, some diving from a boulder into the pool below. [caption id="attachment_1627" align="aligncenter" width="224" caption="Mouse Creek Falls"] [/caption] Mouse Creek Falls About 2 miles up the trail I stop to admire a large mushroom growing on the right and almost miss Mouse Creek Falls, cascading down into the creek from a ridge on the left. Glad I didn’t miss it, because this 20 foot fall tucked into a small cove is a pleasant diversion. I spend a few minutes here where Mouse Creek empties into Big Creek enjoying the cool breezes before continuing uphill. I stop for a lengthy chat with a friendly lady named Cynthia from Jefferson City, who I come to find out has a daughter that lives in my town in South Carolina. She had started out this morning with her trail-addicted husband Frank, who is close to completing his Smokies 900. She turned around but he had to continue on to catch a trail further up. [caption id="attachment_1629" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The bridge over Big Creek"] [/caption] At about 2.3 miles the trail crosses over Big Creek on a sturdy bridge. This is another nice spot to enjoy views of the tumbling creek upstream and the large boulders and pools on the downstream side. From the bridge I watch a couple of trout swimming around beside a boulder in one of the deep green pools. Downstream are several rock cairns that folks had stacked on top of the large boulders. With the creek now on my right I pass what has to be the biggest boulder of the day, about the size of an RV, sitting directly in the middle of the creek. [caption id="attachment_1630" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Rock cairns"] [/caption] The remainder of the climb is much the same, with nice views of the creek here and there on the right, a steep ridge on the left, occasional big trees, and a wide trail now slightly more rocky thanks to abundant horse traffic. I’m passed by the first horse riders of the day, and there would be a steady stream of them for the rest of the day. The abundant horse manure on the trail creates an obstacle course for me but attracts hundreds of swallowtail butterflies, as well as a small purple butterfly I can’t yet name. [caption id="attachment_1632" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Lower Walnut Bottom campsite"] [/caption] Walnut Bottom In seemingly no time at all I reach the intersection of Swallow Fork Trail. Swallow Fork Trail goes off to the left and climbs another 2500 feet in elevation to gain Mount Sterling Ridge. It is part of a loop walk I’d planned for some time, but although it is tough for me to do at this point I continue up Big Creek Trail instead of turning left. I can’t, and I shouldn’t take on this big loop in my current condition. Further up is another bridged crossing of Big Creek which takes me across and into Walnut Bottom. Directly beside the bridge is Lower Walnut Bottom campsite, a.k.a. campsite #37, which is closed due to aggressive bear activity. A short distance further up is the intersection with Low Gap I Trail, which climbs north up to Low Gap at the Appalachian Trail. That will have to wait for another day. A few tenths further up is Upper Walnut Bottom campsite, a.k.a campsite #36, which is a horse camp. Just beyond I reach my turnaround point for the day at the intersection with Camel Gap Trail. [caption id="attachment_1631" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Big Creek"] [/caption] Transition time I do a 180 and return the way I came, bummed but realizing this is best for now. Each downhill step and misstep on a loose rock is like a knife in my back, confirming that it would not have been wise for me to attempt to a 4000 foot descent in just 6 miles on Baxter Creek Trail. Until things improve my hiking hobby will have to be modified to include easier walks. I will have to modify my focus to learning more about the trees, birds, flowers, and history of the Smokies rather than the pursuit of new miles and grueling climbs. It will be a difficult transition, but right now I can’t, and I shouldn’t. When I return to the parking lot somewhat dejected by the pain from this easy walk I glance at the Jeep beside me and notice an angel hanging from the rear view mirror with the inscription “Faith Heals All”. I manage a smile. [caption id="attachment_1633" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Tiny shrooms collected on a small stump"] [/caption] Low elevation on today’s 11.6 mile out-and-back walk was around 1700’ at the Big Creek trailhead and high elevation was about 3050’ at the Camel Gap Trail/Big Creek Trail intersection. The walk included about 2800’ in overall climbing. For pics of this walk, click the link below: Big Creek Trail(Opens in new window)

[caption id="attachment_1608" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Morning on Maddron Bald Trail"]

[/caption] To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below: Maddron Bald Trail and Albright Grove(Opens in new window) 15.0 mile out-and-back walk on Maddron Bald Trail near the Cosby area of the Smokies. The walk started and ended at the Maddron Bald trailhead on Laurel Springs Road and included Albright Grove Loop Trail – May 22, 2010 [caption id="attachment_1603" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="One of my morning companions"] [/caption] After a week off to attempt to rest my ailing back I returned to the Smokies bent on exorcising my old nemesis by tackling another challenging trail. What better way to expel a demon than with a 3500 foot climb into the spruce-fir? Personally I see no better way. The twilight drive up to the hills was once again filled with Smoky Mountain magic, first with a sighting of two huge bull elk around the fence at Oconaluftee Visitor Center and later an indescribably gorgeous sunset. Ok, maybe I will try to describe it since I blew it and didn’t get a picture. Sorry in advance for the over-drama…..if you’re just here to read about my walk on Maddron Bald Trail then spare yourself the agony and skip down a paragraph. The rains had just ended as I topped the state line ridge at Newfound Gap and began descending into Tennessee towards my overnight destination in Gatlinburg. The late afternoon storms had rained themselves out and left a 500-foot thick blanket hanging just below the 5000’ elevation Gap as they receded. As I descended rapidly and passed Morton Overlook, crammed full with awestruck photographers with tripods ready, I looked over my shoulder to see the incredible sight of brilliant orange sunbeams bursting in all directions through the spent clouds like an exploding supernova. The mountains above and below the clouds glistened with the droplets left behind by the Spring bath. The lower layer of the blanket of clouds sank rapidly into the deep spruce-filled valley in ribbons while fog from the valley below raced up in blown ribbons to shake hands with its cousin. The sky was awash in pink and purple twilight hues. It was magestic…..Any questions why I’ve become so addicted to this hobby? [caption id="attachment_1605" align="aligncenter" width="224" caption="A beech growing from a nurse stump"] [/caption] Now back to our regularly scheduled program. As I mentioned in a prior post my options for new Smoky Mountain trail miles are getting slimmer without some major trekking or overnight backcountry visits. Compounding my problem on this Saturday was the fact that I had set an artificial 12 mile cap on my walk in order to attempt to avoid a week of ice packs and horse-pill ibuprofen. Typically I’m decent at math, but for some reason today I set out for the northeast corner of the Park without fully comprehending that 7 point something plus 7 point something, even in low gravity of 2010, is still more than 12. No worries though, at least part of it was going to be on an old road. This shouldn’t be a problem…. [caption id="attachment_1604" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The Willis Baxter cabin"] [/caption] Maddron Bald Trail Did you guess Maddron Bald Trail? Twenty pounds of Kashi bars for you, you’re absolutely correct. Maddron Bald Trail climbs steadily for nearly 3600 feet from the lowlands near Rocky Grove and Cosby southward and up into the pleasant high elevation spruce-fir forests on Snake Den Ridge. To get to the trailhead, I drove east from Gatlinburg and turned right onto Baxter Road just past Yogi’s Campground. There was a small parking area at the trailhead with room for about 3 cars. I was #3 today. Starting up the trail I once again was relieved to see that I will be returning this afternoon on a flat, wide, gravel road. It will be a welcome sight after 15 miles of trekking on an aching back. Several colorful snails, the long, white-flowered shoots of galax, and the tiny ground-hugging flowers of partridgeberry were the most noticeable distractions until I reached the Willis Baxter cabin a few tenths up the road. This tiny one-roomed chestnut log cabin was built in 1889 and was home for 6 despite having no windows. Where did they find room for the 51” flat screen? [caption id="attachment_1606" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Crossing Indian Camp Creek"] [/caption] I continued climbing the wide path, reaching the three-way intersection with Gabes Mountain Trail and Old Settlers Trail at 1.2 miles. I was at this spot on a muggy Saturday just three weeks ago on my Gabes Mountain Trail walk. Beyond the intersection the path is still decently wide, with a few hearty patches of poison ivy growing directly beside the trail. The climb is gradual but noticeable in the muggy morning air. Big hemlocks and poplars begin appearing on both sides of the trail. The first and only bridged crossing of today follows soon after. The long, sturdy footbridge carries me across the wide and picturesque Indian Camp Creek. Later, 3 miles from my starting point, I reach the intersection with Albright Grove Loop Trail. I will save this 0.7 mile half-loop for the return trip. I continue heading uphill along Maddron Bald Trail, crossing the intersection with the other end of the loop trail 0.3 miles further up-trail. From this point upward Maddron Bald Trail makes a steady climb along a path that is increasingly narrow. Gone is the flat, wide grade more resembling a road and I’m now on a more typical trail, passing large tree after large tree as I climb. It is so pleasant I feel compelled to stop to take a quick movie which I title ‘Morning on Maddron Bald Trail’….Wet booted crossings The next segment of the trail is all about un-bridged creek crossings. I come upon the first one shortly after leaving the Grove behind. This wide crossing is the first of several fords of Indian Camp Creek, and I have no choice but to immerse both feet. The upside is I no longer worry about trying to keep my feet dry on the 3 or 4 additional crossings of Indian Camp Creek and Copperhead Branch that follow a short time later. Although some of these crossings can be trouble in high water, today each seems more pleasant than the one before, and I stop at one to enjoy watching a couple of salamanders scurry around on the rocks. [caption id="attachment_1607" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="A tiny salamander"] [/caption] Several of the crossings have small grottos and pools formed at deeper spots and I even notice a trout swimming around. I stop to chat with a family traveling the opposite direction after they’d spent a night at campsite #29 (a.k.a. Otter Creek campsite). Like many, they’re making the popular backpacking loop out of the Cosby Campground that travels up Snake Den Ridge Trail, down Maddron Bald Trail, and then returns to the frontcountry via Gabes Mountain Trail. One of them had spotted a bear the previous night, but today once again I only find their evidence left behind on the trails and no live bears. [caption id="attachment_1609" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Indian Camp Creek valley"] [/caption] Further up the trail at a switchback is a small spur tucked into mountain laurel that I almost miss because it looks like it might be a drainage channel. Am I glad I didn’t miss it! The spur leads to a rock outcropping with stunning 360 views of Indian Camp Creek valley, Maddron Bald, and all the way around to the high Smokies crest to the west. I stay way too long at this gorgeous spot. Past the view spot I continue uphill along a shaded north-facing cove, the drainage of Otter Creek. The trail now is thick with rhododendron and laurel tunnels, and wildflowers encroach more and more at trail’s edge. I notice many nice specimens of false solomon’s seal, umbrella leaf, and the showy stalks of speckled wood lily. Soon I hear and see Otter Creek tumbling down below me on the left before switching back to make a wet-footed crossing of the creek, reaching empty campsite #29. [caption id="attachment_1611" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Otter Creek campsite"] [/caption] Maddron Bald and Albright Grove Above the camp the trail climbs the side of Maddron Bald and then reaches the crest of this long ridge at a switchback. The telltale grasses of a former bald appear, as do specimens of the tiny sand myrtle bush with their showy white flowers bursting in bloom. I travel southeast along the top of the Bald and am now above 5000’ in elevation. The forest has changed to my favorite spruce-fir variety, lined on both sides by big red spruce, laurel tunnels, and the brilliant pink flowers of Catawba Rhododendron. Painted trilliums still bloom here despite having long ago gone to seed at the lower elevations. It seems just yesterday that we were dealing with a frigid winter, snow, and fallen trees, yet now we’re already about to close out the Spring wildflower season. Time flies, so get out there and witness the transformations because in a blink Spring 2010 will be over. [caption id="attachment_1612" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="View from atop Maddron Bald"] [/caption] Climbing steadily towards the top of the long ridge that comprises Maddron Bald, the trees eventually retreat and I’m surrounded by head-high walls of laurel. I see my first wild blueberry flowers, tiny bell-shaped blooms hanging in a cluster from the small bushes. In a couple months these berries will make a nice snack for hikers, birds, and bears. This is the spot that is supposed to have great views of Mount Guyot, Old Black, and Snake Den Ridge, but the clouds are thick and there is no view for me. But I’m not disappointed because the movement of the clouds over the ridgetops and through the tall red spruce is still most enjoyable. When I return later the view does improve some, uncovering much of the state line ridge to the west. From this point I’m ready to stop climbing but I still have a few hundred feet of elevation to gain before finally reaching the Snake Den Ridge Trail intersection. Whew! Over 3500 feet of climbing, and my back feels pretty good so far. From here it’s just 0.7 more miles of climbing to reach the state line and the Appalachian Trail at Inadu Knob, but I’ll skip that trek for today. I did that section last year on my epic Mount Cammerer loop out of Cosby. [caption id="attachment_1613" align="aligncenter" width="224" caption="A massive poplar in Albright Grove"] [/caption] After a nice rest and lunch I return the way I came up. The downhill is much more difficult for me, as I slip constantly on the small rocks and jar my back with each pounding step. I take extra care at each creek crossing to make sure I don’t slip. I swing through the old-growth forest of Albright Grove but at this point I’m just ready to get back to the trailhead, so I’ll need to come back to do the Grove justice some other time. As suspected I’m thrilled to reach the easy walking of the flat, wide, roadbed on the last couple of miles. I make it back to my car in late afternoon, sore but thankfully not in agony. My nemesis may not be defeated, but he’s definitely taken some good shots to the body. A few more rounds and I’ll have him. [caption id="attachment_1614" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Views on the return trip"] [/caption] Low elevation on today’s 15 mile out-and-back walk was around 1900’ at the Maddron Bald trailhead beside Laurel Springs Road and high elevation was about 5425’ at the Snake Den Ridge Trail/Maddron Bald Trail intersection. The walk included over 4980’ in overall climbing. For pics of this walk, click the link below: Maddron Bald Trail and Albright Grove(Opens in new window)