Old Dan Walking

To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below:

Green Knob Fire Tower Trail(Opens in new window) 

5.7 mile out-and-back walk to the Green Knob fire tower on the Blue Ridge Parkway in the Pisgah National Forest. The walk started and ended at the Green Knob trailhead at the Black Mountain Campground near Forest Service Road 2074, a short distance off of the Blue Ridge Parkway (milepost 348) – May 1, 2011

I wanted to get a walk in on the first weekend of May, but since it was Sunday I needed to stay reasonably close to home. I’ve completed almost all of the trails in the eastern half of the Smoky Mountains, closest to home, so I decided on a walk near my second favorite, the Blue Ridge Parkway. Today I would take the long way up to the Green Knob fire tower from the Black Mountain Campground, just off of the Blue Ridge Parkway near Mount Mitchell State Park. There is a short trail from an overlook on the Parkway that takes you to the tower, but I chose the more difficult 2000’ ascent from the campground to get an appropriate workout and feel like I earned it. Boy…this little trail really does make you earn it. (on the trailhead sign it is rated “Most Difficult”…I must say I agree)

In my own little world on the hiking trail, I was unaware of how important Sunday May 1^st would be for America and our Allies, with the news of Usama bin Laden’s death making big headlines soon after I got home. Celebrations went off around the country like V-J day. Unfortunately, there was no country manning up and laying down their arms..but that’s a story for another day. Remember I said I wouldn’t get controversial because you get enough of that? Let me just say God Bless our country and our brave men and women that have toiled and sacrificed for far too long against an ‘unconventional’ enemy!

Uphill to the tower

If you’re coming from Asheville along the Blue Ridge Parkway, the dirt road that is designated Forest Service Road #2074 is about ½ mile north of milepost #348. You’ll turn left and descend through an area of campsites in Pisgah National Forest land. When the road comes to a triangle intersection, stay to left and you’ll hit the Black Mountain Campground on the banks of the South Toe River. There is a large parking area near an information kiosk, just before the entrance to the campground. The trailhead for the Green Knob Trail (#182) is yellow blazed and begins just behind the kiosk.

The trail starts out with an ascent through an open hemlock forest. As usual, most of the trees have already been killed off by the Hemlock Wooley Adelgid (HWA). Ferns burst from the ground to signal the arrival of Spring . I will see no one on the trail this late morning nor the remainder of the day, probably because the fire tower was closed. A short distance up the trail I spot the first of many Crested Dwarf Iris I’d see today. They sure stand out in early Spring. Painted Trillium were the other abundant wildflowers on this walk.

Soon the River Loop, a white-blazed trail that returns to the campground after a 3 mile loop, splits off and descends to the right. I continue straight and begin to climb into the tunnels of Mountain Laurel and Rhododendron.

The upper section and the tower

I continue to climb southward up Lost Cove Ridge, struggling against the congestion and sinus junk I’ve been fighting this week. The ridge thins in a laurel patch, and here I can begin to see the adjacent ridge and mountain off to the north and west, which I believe were Whiteside Ridge and Higgins Bald. In a few spots the climb gets intense, steep and then flattening again in a dense forest with blooming Fraser Magnolia. I stop to catch my breath and notice my reflection in the shiny mica on the trail bed. Further up a couple of large trees stand like sentinels, with the trail passing between them. I see the first little spruce tree growing beside the trail, unknowingly marking the beginning of the spruce-fir zone.

After another steep section there is finally the first, and very welcome, trail switchback. Nearby there are nice specimens of Squawroot, Star Chickweed, and more trillium.

I really get the feeling the tower must be close because I’ve been climbing hard for a long time, but unfortunately I’m way wrong. The trail narrows, then switches sharply back and begins climbing on rocks. These rocks would be somewhat tricky on the way back, causing me to crawl down to avoid slipping. The Black Mountains are now in plain view, with Clingmans Peak, Mount Mitchell, and Mount Craig visible in the increasing cloudiness. For the remainder of the climb, these peaks would be visible off to the west as well as nice views down the South Toe River valley. I hear the sounds of motorcycles now, and with each crest I get that same “I’ve got to be close” feeling, but the tower is not there. Big spruce trees are now all around and the trail is closed in with Hobblebush, blueberry, and laurel. There is an unmistakable aroma of the spruce-fir forest.  I’m tired. Finally, when all hope seemed lost..the tower. J

The live-in Green Knob fire tower, built in 1931, is closed for its third refurbishment. It sits at 5080’ elevation on the Eastern Continental Divide with a commanding view of the Black Mountains, as well as many other peaks in all directions. It is clearly visible from the Parkway. With the refurb in full swing, wood debris and other junk is all around the mountain ridge.It is mid-afternoon now and the views are only so-so, with the clouds completely obscuring the eastern views and the western views beginning to cloud over too. It didn’t really matter, I was proud to have tackled this rough trail to get to the tower the hard way. Now next time, I’ll surely take the easy route from the Parkway Overlook. I return the way I came up and make my way home, happy with another good workout in the southern Appalachians. The bin Laden news is about to break.

Low elevation on my 5.7 mile out-and-back walk was around 3000’ at the trailhead at the Balsam Mountain Campground and high elevation was 5080’ at the Green Knob fire tower. The walk included about 2310’ in overall climbing.  

For pics of this walk, click the link below:

Green Knob Fire Tower Trail(Opens in new window)

To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below:

Mount Pisgah Loop (opens in new window)

Approximately 6 mile loop walk to the summit of 5721’ Mount Pisgah. The loop started and ended at the Pisgah Inn on the Blue Ridge Parkway – August 22, 2010

My website world has been a shambles lately, so I’ve been busy trying to get everything back in order. An apparent hack attack put my site on the warned list at Google, so I’ve moved it over to a new server home. Thanks for sticking with me while I work out the kinks of this new application. 

My most recent walk was another of those repeats from long ago…a Sunday climb to the summit of popular Mount Pisgah on the Blue Ridge Parkway. This is another of those walks I did a long time ago, as a teenager with my best bud Ted. About half way up the climb we started jogging to the top, then collapsed in a heap on the brand new observation deck when we reached the summit. Up came a spry older gent, celebrating his birthday number 80-something. “I climb this mountain every year on my birthday.” He wasn’t even winded while the two of us struggled to get a breath and couldn’t move a muscle. I wouldn’t be surprised if that old guy was still alive today. 

Setting out from the Inn

At long last the cooler weather is beginning to make an appearance up in the high country. It has been a scorching summer and personally I’d be ok if it decided to call it a 2010. The winds were blowing as I set off from the Pisgah Inn parking lot for my climb to the summit. The walk starts on the obscure trail across the Parkway from the Mount Pisgah Country Store. After dropping down a flight of stone steps, the trails enters a dark and dank high elevation forest of large oaks and spruce. I turn east and pass between the campground property and Parkway through a tunnel of rhododendron.

Although the trail is well worn, I notice the fact that I have to bend down a lot as I walk through the tunnels, something you don’t typically have to do in the Smokies. Despite the fact that I’m walking just a short distance from the packed campground on one side and the busy Parkway on the other, the trail gives a feeling of being in the middle of nowhere. As with my previous walk, I’m treated to a great showing of mushrooms of all varieties, shapes, and colors. A white rectangular blaze painted on the trees, exactly like the one on that other trail we all know and love, helps keep me on track.    

In a short while I pass a few small seeps that are the headwaters of creeks that will drain towards Canton to the north. Jewelweed and ferns are abundant on the trail perimeters. At about 0.8 miles I reach the parking lot for the Pisgah picnic area, where they’ve conveniently painted blazes on the asphalt to direct you back into the woods on the opposite side. I pass some pretty Pink Turtleheads and then skirt the north side of the Buck Spring tunnel, under construction with stimulus funds.  A short while later I reach the intersection with the trail that 99% of Pisgah summit hikers take near the main parking area.

 To the top – 30 years later

 The popular 1.5 mile summit trail is wide and well-worn. It starts with an innocent climb for the first several tenths, passing a large exposed rock on the right and a few view clearings on the left. From the clearings you can look back towards the west and see Frying Pan tower. You’ll have an even better view of the tower if you make it to the top. The trail bends around to the right and I can begin to see my destination, with its huge TV tower coming in and out of the clouds. A short while later the trail turns left and begins a tougher climb.

Here the trail changes character and begins to climb up slippery staircases of rock. In a few spots there are clearings that afford a view back to the south. I stop to catch my breath and admire the Filmy Angelica and Heart-Leaved Astor growing abundantly beside the trail. The bees are busy and don’t seem concerned of my presence. I switch now back to the right and the climb is really getting steep. Above my head are huge clusters of bright red Mountain Ash berries. I step aside and let several people and their unleashed dogs go flying past me. Seems I’ve lost my hiking legs and lungs already. It takes years to build stamina and only a few short weeks to lose it.

Finally…the 5721’ summit. Here the huge red and white WLOS-TV tower and outbuildings dominate the landscape. I rest on the same deck I collapsed on almost 30 years ago and think of my old buddy Ted in Florida. The clouds come and go but the views are nice all the way around of the Inn to the south and Cold Mountain in the Shining Rock Wilderness to the west. The north is obscured by a big ugly tower and the view towards Asheville is clouded in. I sure don’t want to leave, but must.

Buck Spring Lodge and the MST 

On the return walk I take the southern route, following the Mountains-to-Sea Trail for a short distance. Here I pass the remains of George Vanderbilt’s Buck Spring Lodge, which George had built as a hunting retreat for himself and his summer guests. The nearby Shut-In Trail was used by George and company to travel the 17 mile distance between here and the opulent Biltmore Estate. Being so close for day-walkers from the Pisgah Inn means this portion of the MST is well maintained with log steps and wide paths. I pass a few spur trails that would allow for longer adventures if I decide to come back and stay. Shortly after I see the crew quarters for the Inn workers and then spot the changing colors of what looks like the Columbine wildflower. Autumn is coming soon, and I’m ready for it.

Low elevation on my roughly 6 miles of walking was around 4800’ on the outbound trail and high elevation was 5721’ atop the Mount Pisgah. I don’t know how much overall climbing I did, but my guess is it was probably somewhere around 1200’.

For pics of this walk, click the link below:

Mount Pisgah Loop (opens in new window)

 

To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below: Mount Mitchell and Craggy Pinnacle – Blue Ridge Parkway(Opens in new window) [caption id="attachment_1655" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The boys about to bag an SB6K peak"] [/caption] Approximately 2 miles of strolling around the Black Mountains with my sons. First stop was Mount Mitchell State Park and then we climbed up Craggy Pinnacle on the Blue Ridge Parkway – July 5, 2010 Happy 234th America! Independence Day weekend was a chance to finally get a break from recent long hours at work and also recover from busy trip across the country. It was the first time in a long time that work would be so busy I would not have time to set foot on a hiking trail or in a touristy area. I intended to just spend the long weekend chilling out at home, but alas the pull of our beautiful eastern mountains was far too strong. Combine that with a long month since my last walk and it was inevitable…and Monday I was on the road with my two sons heading north and back to God’s Country. In terms of hiking condition, however, unfortunately I’m still on injured reserve. So for the near future I will have to stick with short strolls with good footing and moderate climbs. Our plan for today was to head northeast of Asheville on the Blue Ridge Parkway to allow my sons to bag the highest peak east of the Black Hills on a short climb at Mount Mitchell State Park. Then on the return trip we’d stop for another short climb up Craggy Pinnacle, a heath covered summit in the gorgeous Craggy Gardens area of the Parkway near milepost 364. [caption id="attachment_1656" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Mount Mitchell State Park office"] [/caption] Mount Mitchell State Park After some unusually gorgeous July weather early in the weekend it was back to more normal conditions, and it was shaping up to be a warm day in Asheville as we headed north towards the Black Mountains. We made a quick stop for some essential 75th anniversary gear at the Parkway Visitor Center, a nice facility with some cool new interactive exhibits. This year the Parkway is celebrating its 75th anniversary, much like the Smokies did last year. The roads north of the VC are in the process of being re-paved, but fortunately there was no work going on today. We pulled in to the Mount Mitchell State Park entrance and I was relieved to see that we would be treated to an unusually clear summer day. [caption id="attachment_1658" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The Elisha Mitchell gravesite"] [/caption] The entrance road passes the Park offices, a restaurant, and camping area on the right before reaching the summit parking area after a couple of miles. There is a nice little snack bar and gift shop at the summit trailhead, which naturally we had to check out. Hey, don’t want to miss anything you know. The parking lot was busting at the seams thanks to the extended holiday weekend. Just to the left of the snack bar is the paved trail to the summit of Mount Mitchell. I had to chuckle at the sign saying the ‘trail’ was 280 yards long. Yep, 280 yards…definitely no hero stuff on this ‘trail’. [caption id="attachment_1659" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Trekking on the Old Mitchell Trail"] [/caption] Since my last visit to the summit 30 years ago the observation platform at the summit has been restored and Elisha Mitchell’s gravesite has also been given fresh stone. We bag the 6684’ summit of the eastern USA’s highest peak and enjoy the 360 degree view in the unusually clear skies. After all that peak bagging a nice dinner at the rustic, picture-windowed restaurant overlooking the summit was in order, a thoroughly enjoyable experience. After dinner we take a short stroll outside the restaurant on Old Mitchell Trail. The boys decide they’d love to come back and visit this nice trail in the spruce-fir forest at another time. Music to my ears. [caption id="attachment_1660" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Through the tunnels on Craggy Pinnacle Trail"] [/caption] Craggy Pinnacle Just a short drive south of Mount Mitchell along the Blue Ridge Parkway brings us to the Craggy Gardens area. This popular area famous for its heath-covered rounded ridgetops with gorgeous displays of Catawba Rhododendron has separate parking areas for a Visitor Center, a picnic area, and trails. No rhodo show for us today, but we would stop at the northernmost parking lot overlooking Craggy Dome, a 6080 foot peak, for a short climb on the Craggy Pinnacle Trail. [caption id="attachment_1662" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Views from Craggy Pinnacle"] [/caption] The short, well-worn 0.7 mile trail up to the top of Craggy Pinnacle climbs away from Craggy Dome and almost entirely through a dense rhododendron tunnel. It is a pleasant experience that the boys really enjoy. There are a few trees along the way, but most are stunted or have mangled trunks from what I presume are rough conditions at these elevations. Nearly-ripe wild blueberry bushes grow abundantly amongst the cover of the rhodo. The rhododendron and laurel are about a foot or two over our heads so the only views along the trail are from one small rock outcrop. No worries though, because after about 250' of elevation gain we reach the top where we are treated to gorgeous 360 degree views from a large rock observation platform at the summit. We linger a while at the 5892' summit and enjoy the cloud-free late-afternoon and the cool breezes. None of us really want to leave but we reluctantly trudge back to the parking area and make the long drive home, satisfied with another beautiful day of walking around in the hills. [caption id="attachment_1654" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Craggy Dome from Craggy Pinnacle"] [/caption] Low elevation on our roughly 2 miles of walking was around 5640’ at the Craggy Gardens parking area and high elevation was 6684’ atop the east’s highest point, Mount Mitchell. I don’t know how much overall climbing we did, but safe to say it was a lot less than usual. I can get used to these short walks. For pics of this walk, click the link below: Mount Mitchell and Craggy Pinnacle – Blue Ridge Parkway(Opens in new window)