Old Dan Walking

Just kidding…but hey, at least I got your attention. J

Park spokesman Bob Miller cited a whole bunch of reasons why Great Smoky Mountains National Park attendance was down 4.8% in 2011, but somehow he skipped over claiming my hiatus from hiking as a major reason. Strange, huh? J He could’ve also cited the fact that super-blogger Smoky Scout had finished her Smokies 900 and was off discovering eastern North Carolina on the Mountains-to-Sea Trail (MST) with Danny Bernstein. Smokies super-bloggers Al Smith and Janice Henderson also finished their 900s and weren’t writing as often. Strange coincidences?…could the combination account for 4.8%? J

Read the real reasons Bob Miller cited here. (Opens in new window)

While I was in heavily into hiking in the Smoky Mountains in 2009 and 2010, quickly returning home from weekend trips to immediately write detailed website journals, I often wondered if my stories and the stories of other bloggers I followed had any impact on those that read them. I wondered if anyone was motivated to get out to the Smokies and walk? I sure hope so…and that’s why I need to return to Smokies soon so I can take full credit for the attendance upturn. Coincidence?...I think not. J

To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below:

Appalachian Trail to Shuckstack Tower(Opens in new window)

 

Approximately 8 mile out-and-back walk at the southwestern end of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. The walk started and ended at Fontana Dam and was along the Appalachian Trail – November, 2008

It’s pretty easy to tell I’ve been on a long hiatus from walking in the mountains this year. Being so busy around town with my boy’s events I simply don’t have the time for the 8 hours of up-and-back driving that typically are necessary on a hike weekend. The hiking legs and lungs I worked so hard to build since May of 2008 are long gone. I’ve missed my favorite time of year in the Smokies for the first time since moving up to South Carolina. So all I can do is look back at nice Fall walk from 2008.

It may not be too late

It seems like yesterday that I did the tough little out-and-back along the Appalachian Trail to the Shuckstack Tower. At that time my walking obsession was in the early stages, and I was trying to get one last walk in before the all of the leaves were gone and Old Man Winter set in. I was pleasantly surprised by all the late season color I saw on this day in early November. I have no idea what the colors look like this year up in the Smokies, but if you think you are too late to enjoy the colors, you may want to try the southwest corner and see if the explosion of reds, yellows, and browns is still in force.

Low elevation on my 8 mile out-and-back walk was around 1850’ at Fontana Dam and high elevation was around 4000’ at Shuckstack Tower. The walk included about 3000’ in overall climbing.

 

For pics of this walk, click the link below:

Appalachian Trail to Shuckstack Tower(Opens in new window)

Summer 2011 was one of the hottest on record here in my hometown, and I can't say that I'll miss it now that our first real front of the season has finally come through and cooled us off dramatically. It's time for me to find time to get out on the trails again.

One of my favorite spots to go in the Smokies when the weather cools is the Cataloochee area in the Park's southeast corner. The elk 'rut' is in full swing and there are many great trails to explore.

Click these links to revisit two of my favorite walks in the Cataloochee area: (both open in a new window)

Big Fork Ridge Loop

Cataloochee Divide Loop

I also enjoyed the popular Boogerman Trail, but I walked it before the website was created, so there is no journal.

See you out there soon. -Old Dan

 

Editors Note: My second guest journal is from back east in the Smokies and comes from the 13-year-old veteran outdoorsman Zachary Ott. Zachary is the son of my co-worker Randy Ott, who has appeared on Old Dan Walking before. Randy and Zachary often camp at the Smoky's highest elevation frontcountry campground, Balsam Mountain Campground, where I hear Zachary prepares some mean foil pouch pineapple upside-down cake over the fire. On a previous trip they'd walked nearby Flat Creek Trail, and since I missed that opportunity to have Zachary describe his day on the trail, I didn't want to miss his take on his most recent Smoky Mountain adventure. Enjoy!

Thanks Zachary for the great journal and pictures! (you can click on any picture to enlarge it) -Dan 

Newfound Gap to Charlies Bunion

Round trip: 8.1 miles 

My name is Zachary Paul Ott, my dad and I hiked a trail his boss, Mr. Dan DeSetto, recommended to us. That weekend we had camped at Balsam Mountain Campground above Maggie Valley, NC. It was an hour long drive to Newfound Gap through many tunnels. We finally got there, and in the middle of road was a sign saying:

I couldn’t believe we had come this far, so we parked and got packed up and ready to go. We had a hard time trying to find the trail, it wasn’t on a sign.

So we started off on Boulevard Trail, (editor's note - actually it was the Appalachian Trail)  it was all uphill for the first two miles, it was torture. We saw some grouse, but they were too quick to take a picture of. I kept asking how far we had come, my Dad kept saying “don’t think about it” 

( I had a hard time with that, heh heh).

We came to a sign that said we had come 1.7 miles and Ice Water Spring Shelter was 1.3 miles away. We found a lot of backpacking campsites, and planned a backpacking trip to Maine when I was in college. That only gives me five years to train!

After a while we came to the shelter it was a crude stone shelter, but hey… it was a shelter. About a fourth mile later we saw Ice Water Spring; a thin plastic pipe had water bubbling out of it. It was correctly named… burr! There were some crossroads and we got lost.

 

Soon, we saw some great overlooks through the trees.

We finally got to Charles Bunion, it had an amazing view.

It had a small cliff to climb,

 

…so far we had come 4.05 miles and climbed 1600 feet. 

The way back was painful. I fell on a rock and hurt my knee, which made us go two miles per hour slower than we could have, not to mention the uncomfortable rash and the blisters on my feet. Every one and a half steps it was, hurt, burn, squish … hurt, burn, squish. When we finally got back, I felt like passing out.

 

Editors Note #2: Congratulations Zachary, as you can see by the elevation profile this was no easy 'walk in the Park'. You conquered 4 miles of the Appalachian Trail (8 r/t), a 6000' mountain, and 2900' of climbing overall...great job! Keep bugging Dad to bring you back to the Smokies for camping and hiking. J

To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below:

Noland Divide Trail(Opens in new window) 

7.4 mile out-and-back walk in the high country of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, not far from Clingmans Dome. The walk started and ended at the northern Noland Divide trailhead on Clingmans Dome Road – June 18, 2011

When the temperatures in the Midlands of South Carolina start hitting triple digits on a regular basis, I can’t help but count the minutes until I can be walking up on the cool high elevations of a Great Smoky Mountains trail. So on the eve of Father’s Day I bolted up north for a quick walk to get my fix of the high country spruce-fir forests. Arriving in Cherokee for the Friday overnight I could see that the weather had rough around these parts recently, with an abundance of downed trees littered about and a fleet of Asplundh trucks standing by in a nearby parking lot. Some were fitted with cool fat monster-truck tires to deal with terrain, something I’d never seen before on a big cherry-picker truck. Motels were stocked full this weekend due to various activities, such as a Cam-Am motorcycle rally. Hundreds of these strange looking motorcycles were everywhere. Saturday morning, after taking in some great morning views from the Clingmans Dome parking area, it would be an early start for a short out-and-back on one of the high country trails starting just a few tenths of a mile east of the parking area.

Noland Divide – north-south ridge

Noland Divide is one of the north-south ridges that form either the ‘arms’ or ‘ribs’ of the Smokies, depending on how you look at it. If you look at a terrain or relief map of the Smokies, the main ridge, comprised of most of the highest elevation peaks, the NC/TN border, and the Appalachian Trail and sometimes referred to as the ‘spine’, runs mainly west-east from the Fontana Lake area in the west to I-40 in the east. There are several ridges that intersect the main ridge nearly perpendicular. I walked two of those ‘arms’, Forney Ridge and Hughes Ridge, last year. Today I would walk Noland Divide Ridge, another of those ‘arms’ that starts way down in the low country at the Deep Creek Campground and ends at the Smoky’s crest very near Clingmans Dome, the highest point in the Park.

Noland Divide separates the Forney Creek watershed to its west with the Deep Creek watershed to its east. The trail that follows the Divide north or south, depending on your starting point, follows the Divide for about 12 miles and climbs or descends around 4500’ feet in elevation from one end to the other. This is a popular trail for those doing shuttle hikes, leaving one car at the southern trailhead in the Deep Creek Campground and shuttling another car to the northern trailhead on Clingmans Dome Road. I don’t typically do shuttle hikes, so I was going to grab just the upper 3.7 miles of the trail in an out-and-back starting at the small parking area beside Clingmans Dome Road. My starting point today was at nearly 6000’ in elevation.

Noland Divide Trail and the awesome Smokies high country

What can you say about the Smoky’s high country? Just awesome. The upper few tenths of the Forney Ridge Trail are along an old roadbed, overgrown on both sides but easy walking to allow me to enjoy my walk in the beloved spruce-fir. Signs of recent storms are just a short distance down the trail, with three big spruce toppled over and ripping the forest floor up like a can opener, exposing the virgin soil underneath. Around a bend to the right I see the acid rain monitoring tower, also a victim of the big storms. Several large spruce have toppled directly onto the tower, hitting it high up and also at the base, destroying the chain link safety enclosure. It’s tough sledding up here in these high hills. The trail bends off to the left and then comes upon a spur to the right that used to be a service road to a pump station for the Clingmans Dome bathrooms. Thanks to those newly installed vault toilets now at the Dome, there will be no need to use this road anymore. I give a moment of silence for my old friends the flush toilets at the Dome. Vault toilets are the pits..literally.

After the spur the trail thins and becomes more of a trail than a road. Alongside the trail, mixed in with the spruce and dead fraser fir, are the gnarled, twisted trunks of various types of birch and beech. The trunks of these trees are twisted in all sorts of ways by the high winds that often occur up at these elevations. Many of the red spruce trees are large, having escaped logging operations that occurred nearby because the ridges were tough to access. Dead fraser fir skeletons are reminders of the Balsam Wooley Adelgid infestation that decimated the population of mature firs in the 1970’s and 80’s. Knowing that I’ll be doing the vast majority of my uphill on the return leg, I appreciate the gentle decent, which is only noticeable steep in a few spots. Most of the descent is gradual and a pleasant walk through an aromatic and scenic forest. The only downside is ridge views of Forney Ridge to the west and Thomas Divide to the east are mostly obstructed by the thick forest.

Wildflowers zones and Upper Sassafras Gap

Today’s wildflower show was noticeably broken up into zones. At the upper elevations of the walk, Christmas fern, Hobblebush, and lilies were everywhere. None of the lilies had blooms and most did not have their seed stalks, with the exception of a few bluebead lilies that had not yet turned blue. Trillium were abundant but all had already gone to seed. In the next quarter of the descent, it was the Fire Pink show, with a cluster of blooms every hundred feet or so. Fire Pink is a distinct bright red flower with serrated or ‘pinked’ edges.

The third quarter of the descent was dominated by Squawroot, a parasitic plant that often grows on the boundaries of trails and looks like ears of corn sticking up. This marked the point where I had left the spruce-fir zone and descended into a much drier forest of dead hemlocks and oaks. Big trees were abundant as were the sprouts and decaying trunks of the blighted American Chestnut tree. The bottom quarter burst with Galax wands and flame azalea blossoms. Although technically a shrub and not a wildflower, the yellow, orange, and yellow-orange flowers of the flame azalea are a major treat this time of year in the upper-middle elevations.

Before long I reached the end of my descent at the peaceful and remote Upper Sassafras Gap (elevation ~4240’). This was the intersection with two other trails, Pole Road Creek Trail to the east and Noland Creek Trail to the west. Noland Divide Trail continued south and straight ahead towards the Deep Creek Campground. The last time I was in the Smokies I walked the southern end of Noland Creek Trail. It will be much harder to return to this spot and check off the upper miles of this trail along with Pole Road Creek Trail, a connector trail that heads east over to Deep Creek Trail. I will save those miles for another day, for it was time to retrace my steps and tackle the 1700’ ascent back to my car on Clingmans Dome Road. On the way, the heavens opened up and it stormed like there was no tomorrow. Lightning and thunder popped all around. I was thankful to be on an enclosed, rather than exposed, ridgeline. I made it to the car soaked from head to toe, but thankful for another nice walk in the Smokies high country.

Low elevation on my 7.4 mile out-and-back walk was around 4240’ at Upper Sassafras Gap and high elevation was around 5910’ at the trailhead on Clingmans Dome Road. The walk included about 1880’ in overall climbing, an easy day compared my last Smokies walk.  

For pics of this walk, click the link below:

Noland Divide Trail(Opens in new window)

To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below:

Springhouse Branch Loop(Opens in new window)

16.9 mile loop walk in the ‘road to nowhere’ area of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. The walk started and ended at the Noland Creek trailhead on Lake View Drive (RTN) and included Noland Creek Trail, Springhouse Branch Trail, Forney Creek Trail, Whiteoak Branch Trail, Lakeshore Trail, and a road walk from the tunnel at the end of Lake View Drive. – May 21, 2011

With only two walks in the Smoky Mountains in the past seven months, I feel like they should revoke my residency status. I’ve been so absent the groundhogs, turkey, and elk don’t recognize my car anymore. But alas, to my relief I was finally heading back for a late May walk in the ‘road to nowhere’ area, officially known as Lake View Drive, just a short drive west from Bryson City, NC. I let the wife know that if Jesus came looking for me this morning, predicted Rapture Day, to tell him I’d be in the Smokies, about the closest approximation of Heaven that can be had on planet Earth. J I was a bit apprehensive about the loop I was going to tackle today due to its 6000 feet of overall elevation gain, 16.9 miles, and well above average temperature predictions.

Noland Creek Trail and a rare encounter

I get a good early start (7AM) for my long day. The trailhead for my first segment, Noland Creek Trail, is officially a mile south of Lake View Drive at Fontana Lake. Instead of starting there, however, I would start my loop from the large parking area beside the road.  The trail drops down off the south side of the Lake View Drive and then crosses back under the road on a wide gravel bed. I immediately cross Noland Creek on a wide bridge and am wowed by the mountain laurel flower show. Laurel was the definite star of today’s walk, with thousands and thousands of buds scattered on every trail and every elevation. Other stars included Squawroot, Speckled Wood Lily, Hepatica, Galax, Partridgeberry, and many more. Wood Betony was also very abundant but it looked like it was about a week or so away from blooming.

On the lower section of Noland Creek Trail I’m frustrated at the fact that the trail is not close enough to the creek for photo ops. I chose this (counterclockwise) direction for my loop because I wanted to walk beside the creek in the early morning, but never really walk in too close proximity to it on the wide road-like trail. Fortunately there are several wide bridges where I can take in the beauty of Noland Creek. At about 1.3 miles, I reach the spur trail that goes off the left to campsite #65 on the banks of Bearpen Branch. After this point the trail curves around to a wide flat area that obviously had a homesite in the pre-Park days. I enjoy the easy, gradual climb and the picture taking ops at each bridge crossing.

Near the third or fourth bridge I stop in my tracks to see what looks like a large mammal, about the size of coyote, sauntering on the trail’s left ridge. I quickly realize it is not a coyote, but rather a cat…a big cat. The white tufts on its ears tell me it’s a bobcat, but I had no idea they got this big. He hasn’t spotted me yet, and I’m not very close to the creek so there isn’t much sound to drown out my fumbling with the camera. I attempt to get a movie, but am trying so hard not to move I can’t get it focused. My pictures and movie are lousy, but the experience of watching this big guy dig at the trails edge for his breakfast is awesome. I watch him for about two minutes, trying not to move a muscle. He finishes digging and begins moving northward up the trail; I try to follow quietly, but he turns back and sees me, then bolts off to the right edge of the trail and out of sight. What a rare and incredible experience to see this elusive nocturnal cat for such a long stretch! Click the link to my Youtube video of the bobcat having a snack! (opens in a new window - 720p HD available)

...or you can just click on the embedded video.

 

As is typically the case when you spot a rare Smokies mammal on the trail, every rock and tree from that point forward looks like another bobcat or a bear. I continue up the easy path enjoying the creek and flower show and much faster than expected I cross over Mill Creek on a large bridge and am at the intersection with Springhouse Branch Trail, 4.1 miles from my starting point. This area, the Solola Valley, was heavily settled in pre-Park days, with a post office and school nearby. To the left of the trail is large and fancy horse camp #64, with picnic tables and horse ties.  

Springhouse Branch Trail and another large Smokies resident

Springhouse Branch Trail begins climbing beyond the camp and crosses Mill Creek at a couple of times on pleasant rock hops. Mountain Laurel explodes in bloom all over the place. As I climb I the side of Jerry Bald Ridge I notice many flat areas with rock piles, sites of former houses and mills from the once thriving community. The trail turns sharply to the left and climbs steeply away from Mill Creek, then switches sharply left again into an area of large trees and abundant wildflowers. At another sharp switchback, this time to the right, I reach the ridgetop and the forest changes to laurel and rhododendron. From this point the climb is much easier and very enjoyable, through an area of dead chestnut stumps and logs with some new sprouts bordering the trail.

2.8 miles from campsite #64 I reach the intersection with Forney Ridge Trail at Board Camp Gap. The sign says Andrews Bald is just a tantalizing couple of miles to the right, but as tempting as it is that segment will have to wait for another day. Mentally I’m expecting the climbing to be over here since I reached another ridge, but from here I have about another mile of up and down. This section of the trail has nice views to the southeast, although most are fairly obstructed this time of year. It will be nice to walk this segment in the Fall on a loop down from Clingmans Dome on Forney Creek Trail and back up Forney Ridge. It’s never to early to plan your next hike. J

At a large rhododendron tunnel the trail switches sharply back to begin its descent down into Bee Gum Branch valley. Here a tree has begun to swallow the trail sign it has mounted on it. The descent is pleasant, not too steep, with occasional ridge views through the trees. At a few places the beautiful flame azalea were blooming. Around on wide bend I hear the rustling beside the trail and stop in my tracks again…this time it is a black bear! This appears to be a young adult, stout and strong looking with a good coat. He begins to retreat uphill by jumping up on a large tree that has fallen perpendicular to the trail, giving me a stellar view of him as he climbs up the fallen trunk. Fantastic! Again, I try to get a picture but can’t get my camera in a good position before he crests the ridge and is gone. My 26x zoom is nice, but one downside is it takes longer than the average camera to be ready to shoot. I miss another golden opportunity. I feel pretty blessed today for such fine animal encounters, finishing up the long descent down Rough-hew Ridge and reaching the intersection with Forney Creek at campsite #71.

Forney Creek Trail, Whiteoak Branch Trail, and Lakeshore Trail

Campsite #71 is a large flat area beside Forney Creek that is the site of an former CCC camp. The large chimney still remains. Here I spend several enjoyable minutes talking with one of the campers, Dr. Tom Warren of Hickory, NC. He is here trout fishing with friends and has caught several nice rainbow trout. We talk for a while and I admire his catch before heading southbound on Forney Creek Trail for the 5 mile trek back to Lake View Drive. It is blazing hot now and the gnats and flies are getting to be a nuisance. I’m happy I brought a lot of water today because I will use every bit of it. There are few spots to view boulder-filled Forney Creek and stop to take a couple of pictures.

In 1.3 miles and seemingly no time I reach the intersection with Whiteoak Branch Trail. From here I have two choices to connect to Lakeshore Trail, either continuing 1.5 miles along Forney Creek Trail to its end campsite #74 on Fontana Lake, or 1.8 miles on Whiteoak Branch Trail. I choose Whiteoak Branch Trail. I immediately cross Whiteoak Branch and take the opportunity to dunk my hat to cool off. It is blazing now and I’m careful to continue drinking even though I don’t want to. Whiteoak Branch Trail climbs about 300’ through a dry pine forest, crossing over Grey Wolf Creek and other trickling tributaries. The trail bed is dry and sandy, which the abundant grasshoppers seem to enjoy. I’m overheating now and am relieved to reach the intersection with Lakeshore Trail so I can drop my pack for a quick break.I

i’ve done the remaining two miles along Lakeshore Trail two other times, but not this time of year. Although it’s not my favorite Smokies area it was nice with Mountain Laurel blooming and the trees fully leaved.  I don’t appreciate the two climbs in the heat though, and am relieved to reach the tunnel for a chance to get some cool shade. I complete my loop with a road walk along Lake View Drive, finishing the 16.9 miles in just over 9 hours. This is much faster than I expected to finish and I make it home before the sun is down, completing another glorious May walk in the Great Smoky Mountains.

Low elevation on my 16.9 mile loop walk was around 1800’ near at the trailhead on Lake View Drive and high elevation was around 4100’ on Springhouse Branch Trail. The walk included about 6000’ in overall climbing.  

For pics of this walk, click the link below:

Springhouse Branch Loop(Opens in new window)

To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below:

Schoolhouse Gap Loop(Opens in new window)

15.2 mile lollipop walk in the Cades Cove area of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. The walk started and ended at the Schoolhouse Gap trailhead and also included Scott Mountain Trail, Crooked Arm Ridge Trail, Rich Mountain Loop Trail, a bit of road walking, Crib Gap Trail, and finally Turkeypen Ridge Trail – April 2, 2011

In May 2008 I officially became a crazed fanatic of walking on the trails in the Great Smoky Mountains after finishing a short but tough 4 mile out-and-back on beautiful Kephart Prong Trail. I’d been on Smokies trails before, but for some reason that walk signaled a transition in me from tourist to Smokies ‘resident’. Since that time. I walked the trails in my beloved Park every chance I got, never going more than a few weeks between visits. Fast forward to today….and it had been 6 months to the day since my last visit, an early-Fall stroll on the Cataloochee Divide Trail. I was long past getting the itch to return.

Woo-hoo, it’s Friday night and I’m FINALLY going back! The first weekend of April’s weather forecast was better for Sunday than Saturday, but I couldn’t let that deter me. I screamed up I-26 and the long drive didn’t even phase me, making it to the brand-spanking-new Oconaluftee Visitor Center past closing time, but still officially on opening day. A couple of pictures to mark the occasion and it was off on the long, dark and winding drive to Townsend, TN for the overnight. In a few hours I’d be back on Smokies ground for the first time in a long time…Praise God!

Schoolhouse Gap Trail

Schoolhouse Gap Trail starts at a small parking area directly beside Laurel Creek Road, 3.7 miles west of the Townsend “Y”. I was biting off a pretty big chunk today by walking 15.2 miles after so little walking during the Fall and Winter, but Schoolhouse Gap Trail’s gentle grade and wide, flat road-like surface would be much appreciated later in the day when I returned to the car worn out. The trail is part of a roadway system that was originally planned to give Townsend an over-the-Smokies-crest hookup with Hazel Creek in North Carolina in the 1840s, but the project was abandoned when the NC side was not completed. The roads that were completed on the Tennessee side are now trails, but none are very trail-like, including this one.

Laurel Creek comes in on the right side of the trail, flowing under a picturesque bridge. Wildflowers are immediately seen popping on the left and right trail edges, with trillium being the most dominant. Most of the trillium have not yet open. As great as the flower show was on this entire walk today, I think it will be even more spectacular in a week or two. The trail climbs slowly beside tiny Spence Branch, a tributary of Laurel Creek. Climbing is easy right now, but not so later on today.

I reach the Turkeypen Ridge Trail intersection at Dorsey Gap in 1.1 miles.  Here I talk with a nice couple from Walland that are on their way to unofficial spur trail to Whiteoak Sink, a lowland area of caves and a ‘blowhole’ that is just west of the trail. The spur trail is just beyond the intersection and marked with a “No Horses” sign. Beyond there the climbing is a bit tougher, up into a nice white pine forest, with western views of Scott Mountain beginning to appear and stiff, cool breezes whipping through the trees. Ah…I’m back in the Smokies again.

The Chestnut Gap Trail intersection appears on the right, just 0.2 miles from Schoolhouse Gap and the end of my first segment. There is no schoolhouse here but there is a private residence just feet from the Park boundary. The name of this gap apparently came from children following this route to school in Townsend.

Scott Mountain Trail

I really enjoyed the 3.6 miles of Scott Mountain Trail. It is a big contrast from Schoolhouse Gap Trail. This is a real, albeit very narrow, trail that follows the Park’s northern boundary westward towards Cades Cove. The mountain itself drops off dramatically on the north side and there are views in both directions, at least during this time of the year. I’ll get almost half of my total elevation gain for today on this one trail.

There were a few blowdowns to navigate, but other than that it is nice ridge climbing. After a brief pass through a pine forest boulders begin to appear. The middle section has lots of boulders strewn about. In one saddle the breeze was whipping over the crest, and there was an abundance of wildflowers. I stop every two seconds for pictures of yet another awesome view to the south of Pinkroot Ridge and occasionally to the north into Tuckaleechee Valley.

The trail turns to the south and it is here that the real wildflower display begins. A shaded hardwood cove at about 3100’ in elevation is lush and exploding with dutchmens britches, bloodroot, trillium, violets, spring beauties, and other flowers that are no match for my meager identification skills. A small creek has a nice cascade and contributes to the cool splendor of this area. I briefly stop for a chat with three friendly young backpackers from Chicago who had overnighted at nearby campsite #6.

I continue on, swinging to the southwest again and into drier forest. I come across a cool limestone mini-cave a bit further up the trail, then finish the climb to today’s high point with a walk through rhodo-tunnels. Campsite #6 is on the right just before the Crooked Arm Ridge Trail intersection. It is a small camp with water provided by Green Branch, tiny up at this elevation.

Crooked Arm Ridge and Rich Mountain Loop Trails

My next two trails are repeats of an October 2009 walk, but this time I’m traveling downhill. Going this direction Crooked Arm Ridge Trail is much more pleasant, dropping 1300 feet to the floor of Cades Cove in 2.2 miles. At the top it plummets through pine and oak with views to the west of the bright green fields of Cades Cove. Further down it comes upon Crooked Arm Branch, flowing much stronger than my previous visit. Crooked Arm Falls puts on a nice display near the bottom.

At Rich Mountain Loop Trail I turn left for the easy 0.5 mile walk beside a manicured field. Two wild turkeys graze on the other side of the field and give me a chance to try out my 26x zoom lens. I reach Cades Cove Loop Road and the western end of my walk for today. Now back east to the car some 4.5 miles away as the crow flies. Unfortunately I’m not a crow, so it will require more than 7 miles of walking for us mere humans.  

Anthony Creek and Crib Gap Trails

The wind is blowing strong through the Cove, carrying with it the sweet aroma of the horse camp. But just a 0.5 mile east and I’ll be dealing with a different, albeit much more pleasant aroma. I have to walk to the far end of the Cades Cove picnic area to reach the trailhead for Anthony Creek Trail. The smell of burgers and steak grilling after 10 miles of walking with nothing but a Nature Valley granola bar to eat is tough to take. J We hikers are a tough lot, so I press on.

Anthony Creek is another road that is called a trail, at least for the 0.3 miles of it I saw before reaching the Crib Gap intersection. Anthony Creek flows beside it and I leave the sweet smell of glorious charbroiled protein behind. Crib Gap is described in the book as a “short and simple 1.6 mile” trail. If it wasn’t for those other 10 miles I might have agreed with the book. But this little horse trail climbs a bit toward Crib and Incline Gaps beside Laurel Creek Road before finally intersecting it. I was over the climbing for today and my dogs were barking. The trail intersects the road at a diagonal, so you have to cross the road and then walk a few yards up before rejoining on the north side.

On the north side the trail descends through former homesteads, but the only visible remains are piles of rock common where foundations once stood. Bears are supposed to be frequent visitors here, but they are still sleeping this early in April. I’m ok with that. I stop and empty my bag looking for ‘vitamin I’, but to no avail. I must’ve taken it out of my pack to use at home..rats! I’ll have to suck it up. (we hikers are a tough lot, so I press on J) A bit later I reach a 4-way intersection. To the right in 0.2 miles is Laurel Creek Road, officially part of Turkeypen Ridge Trail. Straight ahead is the Finley Cane Trail in 0.1, officially part of Crib Gap Trail. As is often the case for me, I’ll have to come back and hit those tiny segments if I ever want to officially be a 900-mile club member. Doubtful. I head left for 3.4 miles on Turkeypen Ridge Trail.

Turkeypen Ridge Trail

All the literature I’d read about Turkeypen Ridge Trail had glowing remarks about what a pleasant walk it is. Again, if it wasn’t for those other pesky 10 miles I'd already walked I might have agreed with them. Although never exceeding 2105’ in elevation for its whole length, Turkeypen adds another 1000’ of climbing to my tired extremities in a series of ups and downs. But it certainly is pleasant, climbing and descending through pine forest with ridge views on either side. There is a small crossing soon after the intersection that might get your boots a tiny bit wet as it did mine. Another crossing of Pinkroot Branch about half way is easier to stay dry. After the crossing I decide to slow down and quit worrying about the 4.5 hour drive home, and low and behold all my pain vanishes and I feel like $100 climbing the ridges again. I’m relieved to see the backward sign for Schoolhouse Gap Trail at Dorsey Gap, where I was several hours earlier. I skip easily down the trail to complete a fantastic and challenging day, at long last back in God’s Country. The 4.5 hour drive is a piece of cake.

Low elevation on my 15.2 miles of lollipop walking was around 1630’ on Schoolhouse Gap Trail and high elevation was about 3300’ near the Crooked Arm Ridge Trail/Scott Mountain Trail intersection. The long day included more than 4000' in total climbing, a good way to knock off some winter rust. It was great to be back in the high Smokies life again, and I’ll try not to wait 5 months to get back.  

For pics of this walk, click the link below:

Schoolhouse Gap Loop(Opens in new window)

  

 

To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below:

Cataloochee Divide Trail(Opens in new window)

 

13.9 mile Y-shaped walk on the Cataloochee Divide in the Great Smoky Mountains. The walk started at Cove Creek Gap and ended in the Cataloochee area, covering Cataloochee Divide Trail, McKee Branch Trail, and Caldwell Fork Trail – October 2, 2010

 

The first weekend in October in the Smokies in a word?....Tremendously fantastic. Ok, that’s two words, but hey, crystal clear cool days and downright chilly nights were in store so I couldn’t resist getting out on the trails again. So I blew out the door at 05 early and drove to the nearest Smokies area to my South Carolina home, Cataloochee. Today I would polish off essentially the last of my unwalked miles originating from this gorgeous and popular area.

 I rolled into Cataloochee Valley fairly early but there was already a huge lineup of cars on each side of the road beside the tended meadows. The attraction was obvious, as the famous Smoky Mountain elk herd was out in the fields putting on quite a show. It was the first time I’d heard the bugling that is common for this time of the year, known as the rut. Several impressive bull elk with huge racks were in full song, songs that echoed loudly throughout the valley. It was a tremendous start to the day and just what I needed after a not-so-spectacular last visit one month previous. 

Views galore on Cataloochee Divide Trail

Today’s planned walk was to be a long one, and the route would depend on whether I could catch a ride to the Cataloochee Divide trailhead from near the full campground in the valley to Cove Creek Gap. If I couldn’t, it would add about 5 miles and 1500’ of climbing to my day, so I was definitely hoping for a break. Many cars passed me up as I walked along the road until Cindy and her daughter from Canton saved me…thanks Cindy! Can’t thank you enough for the ride and the great conversation along the winding road up to the Gap. After getting dropped off I set out on foot from the 4050’ Gap, heading southwest along the Divide through a thick forest of white pine and hickory.  

Cataloochee Divide is a massive ridge that straddles the Park boundary, with great views to the southeast on the left side and into Cataloochee Valley on the right. Unfortunately Fall had not yet arrived in full force at these elevations, so the trees still blocked most of the Cataloochee views. Views toward I-40 and Asheville were great though. At just over a mile there was one cleared spot that looked like it might have been used as a camp, where the trees had been cleared to offer a fantastic view of Cataloochee. The trail follows the ridge and runs beside the old familiar boundary fence built in the 30’s by the CCC. To the left of the fence was a long dirt road/driveway that eventually led to a new house being built directly beside the Park. No setback whatsoever…..the edge of the covered carport was directly on the Park boundary. Beyond the house were more fabulous views to the southeast. 

The trail passes Panther Spring Gap, reminding that this area has been the only place in the Smokies with reported, but unconfirmed, sightings of panthers. Officially the cat is declared extinct however. The sides of the trail are crowded with wildflowers of many types, jewelweed, snakeroot, nettle, and witch hazel among them. I spot my first bluebead lily, with striking blue beads as the name implies dangling on the end of long stalks. As is typical of Smokies ridge walk, it’s not as easy a stroll as you’d think. Lots of ups and downs with a general uphill bias. Views of Purchase Knob appear on the left as I climb. I stop for a rest at Taylor’s Turnaround, one of the huts placed outside the boundary for visitors of The Swag resort.  

I continue on and before long reach Purchase Gap (elevation 4800’) at the intersection with McKee Branch Trail. I’ll pass this trail up for now but return here in a couple of hours for the descent back to my car. At Purchase Gap I meet up with two great couples that are out exploring the trails while staying at the Swag. Greg, Elizabeth, Bev, and Ken from Nashville are my new walking partners for the next 1.4 miles, and we all continue southwest while conversing about different Smoky Mountain topics. I pretend that I know what I’m talking about and we enjoy the walk in the great afternoon weather. I split from them at the Swag to complete the last 0.4 miles of the trail, ending at the intersection with Hemphill Bald Trail at Double Gap. I was here last June for a fantastic loop out of Polls Gap, still one of my all-time favorite walks.

I double back and on the return trip to Purchase Gap my new best friends invite me for cookies and Coca-Cola on the peaceful deck of the Swag. Heaven on Earth…fresh baked chocolate chip cookies and Coke in mid-walk…what could be better! Thanks Greg, Elizabeth (don't call me Susie :)), Bev, and Ken! Reluctantly I must leave due to the time, so I say goodbye and continue back to Purchase Gap, sugar rush fully engaged and feeling like $100. 

Downhill slogging on McKee Branch Trail

 

I had read in many of the blogs I follow that McKee Branch Trail is one of those miserable experiences you complete and hope you don’t come back to. I hoped that the experience of this knee-busting downhill wouldn’t dampen what had been a real good day so far. McKee Branch Trail is probably named for the McGee family that lived and is buried at the end of the trail near Caldwell Fork. I didn’t have a lot to say about this tumbling, rocky, deeply rutted downhill horse trail, except I was relieved to be going down it instead of up. One thing worked in my favor, however. Recent dry conditions followed by a big rain had made the abundant mud exactly the right consistency to actually help my descent. Both too dry and too wet to be overly slick, it had more of a consistency of Play-Doh. This helped cushion the impact of the downhill slog and I had absolutely no back or knee discomfort, despite losing about 1800’ of elevation in only 2.3 miles. Near the bottom the trail flattens out in a dying hemlock forest in the area once occupied by the McGees and includes a couple shallow crossings of the namesake creek. In no time I happily arrived at the intersection with Caldwell Fork Trail with nary a complaint in mind. McKee Branch Trail…done! 

Caldwell Fork Trail

 

I turn right on Caldwell Fork Trail for an easy 3.1 mile saunter back to the car. I had done this section of the oft-muddy trail previously so I stowed my camera and cruised along at an easy pace. Caldwell Fork Trail is loaded with creek crossings, mostly on footlogs that are placed high above the water to avoid being washed out by Caldwell Fork. A few of the footlogs are so high they get your attention. There is only one real spot that you must cross without a footlog, but it is reasonably easy to keep your feet dry. For pictures from this section of trail I recommend you visit my gallery from Winter 2008. 

A love rekindled

 

If you read my previous post you probably wondered, as I did, whether I’d be back to walking again any time soon. My last experience was not ideal. But an early-Autumn day of walking in the Smokies can make you easily forget your troubles, so I’d say my love for this hobby has been restored. I’m looking forward to getting back out there on the trails soon, and I recommend it all of you as well.

 

Low elevation on this 13.9 mile walk was around 2650’ at the Caldwell Fork trailhead in the Cataloochee area and high elevation was about 5090’ at Double Gap at the intersection of Cataloochee Divide Trail and Hemphill Bald Trail. The walk included nearly 3200’ in overall climbing and 4640’ in descending.

 

For pics of this walk, click the link below:

Cataloochee Divide Trail(Opens in new window)

 

 

 

 

 

To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below:

Hughes Ridge Loop(Opens in new window)

 

15.7 mile loop walk on Hughes Ridge in the Great Smoky Mountains. The loop started and ended at the Smokemont Campground and included Bradley Fork Trail, Chasteen Creek Trail, and Hughes Ridge Trail – September 4, 2010

 

Summer break may be over but clearly the Summer season was trying to hang around and pretend back to school never happened and it wasn’t the first weekend of football season, like that cousin that starts school later than you do and won’t go home. But finally, on the first Saturday of September and of Labor Day weekend, a cold front broke Summer’s will and he was in full retreat. Sing it with me now….HAAAAA-LE-LU-JAH!!! For the first time in months, I was actually chilly when I stepped out of the car at the full Smokemont Campground, the smell of breakfast wafting through the clear morning air. I set out for today’s walk before realizing it was in fact so chilly that I might actually need my fleece later, so I did a 180 and grabbed my long lost friend out of the back of the car. I wouldn’t have wanted to get stuck out on the trail tonight without it in lows that were probably going to reach the high 30’s in the high country. 

Today would be one of the most critical days in my 2.5 year hiking ‘career’. For the first time since severely re-aggravating my old back injury 3 months ago, I was going to try a long day on the trail. In the nearly twenty years since going under the knife to repair some blown out disks, I’ve learned to tell the difference between when I just tweaked my back and when it was serious. This one felt serious. Since late Spring I’ve been cutting back on the strenuous climbing, and when I did walk, limiting myself to under 6 miles. But lately I’ve been feeling better, and it was time to put my recovery to the test. Tackling today’s 15.7 mile loop would mean I’d have to shoulder my heavy day-pack rather that the hip pack I’d been using for recent short jaunts. There was much trepidation and doubt as I set out from the campground up Bradley Fork Trail around 9:30 AM.  

Bradley Fork Trail and the climb up Chasteen Creek Trail

 

Not far along Bradley Fork Trail I came across an interesting sight. A three-foot-wide boulder had eroded away from the upper portion of the trail, the part that connects in from the Luftee Baptist Church, and fallen on the lower trail. Glad I wasn’t walking by when that thing fell. Bradley Fork Trail climbs above the namesake creek and follows to the right of it for 4 easy, gradually ascending miles. I’d do 1.2 miles of it in the morning and the remaining miles this afternoon, when I knew I’d appreciate the gradual, easy descent. Today the trail was missing its usual quagmire of mud thanks to lack of rain and some recent maintenance. On the right was some sort of hedge-nettle with striking blue flowers and an abundance of orange jewelweed. In a blink it was time to turn right onto Chasteen Creek Trail. 

You can spot, and smell, a Smokies horse trail from miles away. The lower portion of Chasteen Creek Trail is an absolute disaster. Rutted and rocky with an abundance of obstacles left by our equine friends, the only saving grace on this lower section was the fact that dry conditions kept the thick mud hard enough to get through without sinking above my ankles. About 0.7 miles up the trail is a short spur that leads to an area of horse tie-ups on the left. Here a family with young girls was dismounting to play in Chasteen Creek. From here the trail begins to climb more steeply, and quickly comes up a spot to view a nice cascade of the creek. The horse damage and obstacles thankfully are left behind at this point.     

After two 2.4 miles of climbing with Chasteen Creek well below on the left, I come upon backcountry campsite #48. This is a peaceful spot in a nice area between two small creeks, roughly 3300’ in elevation. The camp is empty despite the long holiday weekend and stellar weather. I’d reached this spot on a foggy late-Fall walk in ’08. Above the camp were new miles for me and an even steeper climb away from the creeks and into the oaks and dead hemlocks.

Striking blue berries of the umbrella leaf and the dangling red berries of rosy twisted-stalk line the sides of the trail. At one nice spot the trail almost levels in a peaceful cove…and I stop to listen to the silence. The only sounds are from trees rubbing together in the wind, making the sound of either a horse whinnying or a cow mooing…depending on the species of tree I guess. J 

 

 

Doubts creep in on Hughes Ridge

 

To this point I've felt pretty good, but the climb becomes relentless after the nice cove. Switching back several times, I finally see the edges of Enloe Ridge in the distance, providing hope that I'm nearing the top. But as is often the case on a big climb, I've got a long way to go. Switchback after switchback, I'm really starting to feel the effects of the 3 month layoff. Finally, mercifully, I crest Hughes Ridge and reach the intersection with Hughes Ridge Trail. The first fir tree appears at the junction, and I'm at almost 4700' in elevation. To the right, Hughes Ridge Trail used to descend down into the campground across Becks Bald, but that section is no longer maintained.

 

I turn left and begin the northern trek towards the AT along Hughes Ridge and the trail built by the CCC in 1934. Sprawling Hughes Ridge runs perpendicular to the Smokies spine and separates the Oconaluftee River valley from the Balsam Mountains. Ridge walking in the Smokies is normally a fantastic experience, but I'm not enjoying it today. It is up-and-down walking, and I've had about all I can take. To my dismay, I've got about 400' of elevation to gain before I reach the high point of today's walk (~5100'), and even then the climbing won't be over. At 0.5 mile I pass the Enloe Creek Trail intersection, a trail that turns right and drops into the Balsams. It is on my to-do list, but at this point I have strong doubts that I'll ever see that trail again. The spruce-fir is starting to become more prevelent as I trek north. There are what should be awesome views of Mine Ridge to my left, and later Katalsta Ridge to my right, but unfortunately I can't really seem them well through the trees. I should've saved this trail for late Fall or early Spring. 

Laurel tunnels and thick spruce now shroud the trail as I finally reach the intersection with Bradley Fork Trail at the 2.8 mile mark. I collapse in a pathetic heap after almost 1000' of climbing on a 'flat' ridgetop. I'm only 2.0 miles from Pecks Corner and 2.2 miles from the AT, so close I can taste it. I struggle with the fact that I'm so close to this remote area that is so difficult to reach any other way, but I decide not to add 4.4 miles to my already long day. It is late, and I'm pretty whipped already. It would take a 20 mile walk to complete those 2.2 miles today or any other day, so again I have strong doubts I'll ever see that un-walked section of trail. Reluctantly I swing left and start down Bradley Fork Trail for the long descent back to the campground.

I’m done…I think

 

Despite the fact that I’d been on Bradley Fork Trail more than any other Smokies trail, I had not previously walked the upper 3.3 miles. I can say now that I’d be ok if I never walked it again. The upper segment was a slow and steep miserable descent on rocks and ruts. Again, views would’ve been pretty decent through the laurel , beech, and oaks had it been a different time of year. At one point I even saw the top of Mount LeConte through the trees. The AT ridge was there too, but only briefly through the leaves. My mind had told my body that I was done, and at that point there was nothing I could do to enjoy the remainder of my walk. I even stowed my camera, which I never do. I was done. I walked head down through the remainder of the trail, barely noticing the abundant shrooms and views of Taywa Creek as the trail flattened out near the intersection with Cabin Flats Trail. I turned left at the traffic circle and sped through the remaining 4 miles, not even pausing to enjoy the creek. (you can see my pics of that section from different walks under ‘Hiking Journal Archives’ at the top of my page)

I'm writing this on Labor Day, two days post-walk. When I drove home exhausted late Saturday night I was sure I was going to quit this walking hobby. In fact I was positive. Why would I continue to put myself through the discomfort? I'm not sure, but now here I am two days later...and my only thoughts are that I'm thankful. Everything on my body hurts....everything except my back. Praise the Lord!...when is my next walk? J  

 

Low elevation on this 15.7 mile loop walk was around 2250' at the Bradley Fork trailhead in the Smokemont Campground and the high elevation was about 5090' on Hughes Ridge Trail. The walk included about 4000' in overall climbing.

 

For pics of this walk, click the link below:

Hughes Ridge Loop(Opens in new window)

To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below: Palmer Creek Trail(Opens in new window)

6.6 mile out-and-back walk on Palmer Creek Trail in the Balsam Mountains of the Great Smoky Mountains. The walk started and ended at the Palmer Creek trailhead on Balsam Mountain Road – July 31, 2010

While on a camping break with the family I took the opportunity for a quick last-Saturday-of-July walk in one of my favorite Smoky Mountains areas, the high country of the Balsam Mountains. I was treated to a great wild turkey show on the way up beautiful Heintooga Ridge Road towards the trailhead. Three separate flocks were feeding in the cleared areas along the roadside, including many chicks that cautiously huddled close to their parents. It was an obvious and fitting prelude to walking a trail named after former Cataloochee resident Turkey George Palmer. I had no clue of the socked-in conditions at the mile-high elevations when I left the steamy low elevation camp. It was a different world, cool and damp with no visibility. 

Today I would catch the short Palmer Creek Trail, one of only a couple that I’d not yet completed on the Heintooga Ridge Road/Balsam Mountain Road/Round Bottom Road/Straight Fork Road conglomeration. This road combination is a terrific day’s journey in itself, starting a mile high in Balsams on the Blue Ridge Parkway and eventually ending up in Cherokee after a long, winding, gravel one-way downhill plunge. I cruise slowly through the fog for seven miles on the one-way gravel section before reaching the western trailhead for Palmer Creek Trail. Balsam Mountain Road makes a sharp left at the tip of Trail Ridge, and this is where I’ll park the car for my short out-and-back. A large church van fittingly from Eden, NC sits beside the trail sign, but I would not meet the occupants on my route today. Palmer Creek Trail drops east out these high mountains and down into Cataloochee Valley, so I presume folks use this trail as a start point for a backpack trip to one of many options in that area. Mount Sterling can also be reached from this start point, but to do that hike you’d have to gain back the 1500 feet you drop on Palmer Creek Trail and then some.

 

 

 Palmer Creek Trail – The mushroom show

 Palmer Creek Trail starts with an innocent but short ridge walk amidst tall rhododendron, and here is where I get my first look at the amazing show I was in for on this day. Mushrooms of all shapes and sizes were on full display throughout the length of the trail. In nearly 600 miles of walking around these mountains, I’ve never seen a show quite like it. Big shrooms, miniature shrooms, orange, white, red, and all colors in between…It was a quite a show. Unfortunately with batteries running low I had to restrain from taking a picture of every one for fear of missing the creek views later in the trail.

 

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Shortly after the start there is an abandoned trail that goes off to the left. I follow it around just to see where it was going and come upon what I presume is a weather monitoring station set up by the Park Service. I backtrack and then begin the drop off of Trail Ridge amidst thick walls of mountain laurel and rhododendron. Unfortunately both of these shrubs are past their peak of bloom for the year, and although I’ve seen some good laurel shows on Bote Mountain I’ve missed the rhodo show for 2010. Oh well, that will give me an excuse for next year. I come upon some fantastic displays of Yellow-Fringed Orchids, with showy orange bloom clusters at the end of long stalks. A short time later I enter an excellent 300-foot-long rhododendron tunnel. 

With just a short walk today and a still-recovering back I’ve once again set out on the trail without my faithful 2 year companion, my Kelty daypack. On recent walks I’d not worried too much about not having it along because I was on short, heavily-traveled trails. This area, however, gave me that sense of remoteness…and I began to wonder if it was a good idea to be out in these deep woods without my usual compass, maps, GPS, overabundant food and water supply, first aid kit, lighter, etc, etc. My hip pack would have to do for today. Hopefully I wouldn’t have another Poinsett Passage experience. Creekside strolling After the rhodo tunnel the trail descends the side of Trail ridge through an oak forest with the occasional views to the south of Shanty Ridge. The dark spruce trees stand out like soldiers in formation along the ridge’s crest. The sides of the trail are lined with tall laurel and rhododendron and in the air is the distinct smell of this forest type that is hard to describe. A pleasant fragrance but definitely distinct to the closed oak forest. I soon come to the first of three footlog crossings on today’s trail, this one across Beech Creek just before the confluence with Falling Rock Creek. The brown book includes a description of the unfortunate incident that gave this tributary its name.

 

Beyond the pleasant crossing the grade levels some and the forest changes character to the cove hardwood variety. More impressive mushrooms keep my camera occupied and I begin to see larger trees, many of them dead hemlocks. One huge maple beside the trail bares a scar from nearly top to bottom that must have been a lighting strike. At another nice footlog crossing of Lost Bottom Creek the trail turns sharply right and then travels the majority of the remainder of its distance about 50 feet above and to the left of Palmer Creek. The creek tumbles through multiple picturesque cascades across large blocks of sandstone, but unfortunately it’s just far enough below me as to not allow a decent picture through the trees. In no time at all I’ve reached the level bottom land at what used to be called Indian Flats. One more crossing of Pretty Hollow Creek and then I come to the end of my descent at the intersection with Pretty Hollow Gap Trail. From here a hiker can turn left and ascend Pretty Hollow Gap Trail and eventually reach Mount Sterling, or turn right and reach the Cataloochee area after an easy 1.6 mile descent.

Today I’ll do neither. I grab a quick snack and begin the 1500’ ascent back to my car. Ascending at the end of a walk is something I try to avoid, but I can’t really complain due to the minimal distance I’d cover today. About a mile up the trail the rain started, and shortly after it became a full-on monsoon complete with occasional claps of thunder overhead. Ah…another reason I miss my daypack….my rain poncho. The rain keeps me cool though for the ascent. Watching the muddy runoff pour down the mountain, I get a flashback memory to December 16, 1979. 15 years old, I was in Tampa Stadium (a.k.a. the Big Sombrero) that day as I watched the Bucs win their first NFC Central Division championship with my friend Ted in an absolute monsoon. The game is an all-time top 10 weather game in the NFL, and an all-time great memory for me. 

The rain pouring down the trail brought back the memory of the water pouring down the steps of the old Sombrero. I could picture former Buc greats Cecil Johnson, David Lewis, and Jimmie Giles dancing in the mud at midfield, all serving to keep my mind off the 1500’ climb. The only dancing I did was when I reached the end of the climb at Balsam Mountain Road and settled in to my dry car for the ride back to camp, completing another great day in the Great Smoky Mountains. Low elevation on my 6.6 mile out-and-back walk was around 3000’ at the east end of the trail, the Pretty Hollow Gap Trail intersection in Indian Flats. High elevation was around 4500’ at the western trailhead on Balsam Mountain Road. The walk included just over 2000’ in overall climbing.

For pics of this walk, click the link below: Palmer Creek Trail(Opens in new window)